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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by eteller, Dec 24, 2006.
BTW, I cannot recommend enough how great sheepskin seat covers are for the long haul!
I'm in anchorage and will be going to Alaskan leather tomorrow. don't think I need the sheepskin on the NH though as I'm finding it fairly comfortable. Thanks for the insight on the screens too, one of the f series screens are definitely in my bikes future.
I've always liked the 90s Nighthawk 750 and 250 models. I taught motorcycle safety and the 250 was my favorite bike of the lot to ride. I almost bought a 750 without consulting my wife. It was a great deal on a 5 year old model with new tires for $2200. For my weak back the 750 is actually a bit too sporty of a riding position. When I rode that 750 I had a back ache for a few days. My back likes to be completely upright like it is on my cruiser and my dual sport.
My quick 4 day spring ride...
I've all but decided my next bike will be a Nighthawk. These are my current candidates:
Anything jump out at the NH experts here? I've seen the 1993, trying to set up a meet to see the 1983. The one I saw looks good in photos, but has some small issues. Chips and dings consistent with the mileage, a bit of rust below the battery from a drip, needs a new front tire, tach doesn't work. No leaks, suspension was solid, good brakes, started easily and idled smooth after warm-up.
Not an expert but I bought a '98 with 1/3 the miles, perfectly clean and all original, no rust, for less money in Alaska, things are typically more expensive up here... and I know of an 88 that's equally clean except for a broken tach or speedo (whichever is on the right) for $1200. I'd say look at the 83 between the two, or keep looking altogether.
What most people do that live in the rust belt is buy from down South and (Stealth) sell back down South. You are going to find a lot of rusty bikes up there. You see the same bikes year after year on Ebay appear every month or so when all the other bikes disappear: and then all the rust belt bikes appear like magic, again and again.
Bikes up North are just coming out of hibernation, so many have unseen problems they don't even know about if not set up properly for storage. Good luck!
Hey! I know you (kinda). Welcome. Just met 'pants, loki and others at the rally in the Ozarks. I won't be at kickstand, though- already committed to RDV. Dubb's here, too.
You home safe now?
Ari, what are you doing here. You'll get a bad rep if you aren't careful.
So I got the bearings and tire on finally yesterday afternoon and today I took a couple of rides. This morning I just wanted to see if everything was good and this evening the missus and I had a nice sunset ride. Not too far but a few miles on the highway and some nice two lane, it was a beautiful evening.
The tire went pretty well. Getting it off was a bitch but I used the zip tie method and it went on easy.
I'd never done bearings before but that wasn't too bad either. The big problem was that I buggered up the little side collar that goes in the third bearing. The old one was fused to the inner bearing race and I mashed it up trying to get them apart. It was one of those times when as you are doing it you think "I probably shouldn't be doing this" but you've already started and you just keep bashing away. I was able to order a new one online.,
The new bearings:
Everyone says to use a socket to drive in the bearing but I didn't have one the right size. So I turned a mahogany bearing driver on the lathe:
The mahogany one split so I made another from some Black Locust. Elm might have been even better.
So with the new tires, bearings, gas cap key and clutch lever the $500 bike is up to about $750. But it runs great and is a blast to ride. Next up is putting on the new fork seals that came with the bike.
A new issue that came up today is a little clutch slippage. I've been riding pretty easy since the tires were almost 20 years old. Today I used the throttle a bit more and a couple of times it felt like the clutch just slipped. Around 5-6,000 rpms she would just rev up to 8 or so then settle back down. Probably clutch and not transmission, right?
Holed up over here waiting on a winter storm to move on out. Would you believe it snowed over here on Thursday night? Been cold and wet ever since, but I think it's clearing today. Leaving in the morning.
Sorry to hear. I saw that about the snow. Rained here almost every day. I know I missed a good time, but I think turning back worked best for me. Got a lot done on mother's house.
You should post something here about the Ozarks ride.
I Hate this thread.....
Every time it pops up I Have to scour craigslist for a damn Nighthawk..
LOL, save it in your favorites! I have a half dozen or more saved, and don't have time to look for a needle in a haystack.
You're the Man! Nice work. I wish that I had your shop and smarts.
Yeah, clutches are maintenance items, and transmissions are for missing gears, clunking, grinding, or not going into gear.
JUST don't get a performance clutch or xx% heavier clutch springs. They WILL wear your trans out, break clutch baskets, etc... Stock OEM clutches AND springs are the way to go. I look forward to your writeup, and hopefully, it will give me courage enough to do mine. Mine is my only transportation for now, so projects are difficult unless they are minor and less than a few hours total time to fit in my schedule.
Not necessarily. Do you know what type oil is in it? If it has 30W or less on the high end (10w-30 for instance) it has friction modifiers in it that cause slipping. If you don't know the history of the oil, I'd change it to MC-compatible oil (40W or higher on the top end or MC-specific). I don't want to risk an oil war by recommending a particular brand/type. . . .
To paraphrase Kurt Russell in Tombstone, "I already got a bad rep, might as well join ADV too."
Looks there are a few crossovers here.............
Looking at these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-shock-...r:1993|Make:Honda&hash=item460e7b102d&vxp=mtr on fleabay, anyone have experience or knowledge about 'em?