Official Nighthawk thread

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by eteller, Dec 24, 2006.

  1. SamRus

    SamRus Been here awhile

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    306
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    Southern IL
    Yeah, 3K is definitely too high. $1,000 - $1,500 if it's in great condition sounds about right.
  2. mrbreeze

    mrbreeze Long timer

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    I doubt they would take $1000, but I may offer it just to see what they say. :lol3

    thanks - I figured $3000 for a 22 year old bike was kind of "out there"
  3. nbsdave

    nbsdave Been here awhile

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    sarasota, fl
    prices vary with the seasons and location
    it's fall-I'm thinking 2100 tops if it has low miles.
    I would let my 12000 mi. 03 go for 3500, new tires, carbs cleaned & synced, new fork seals, & under 400 miles on tires

    if you get it and it hasn't been ridden plan on carb cleaning, brake fluid flush and maybe fork seals-stuff goes wrong when they sit.

    if that one doesn't work out, keep looking-you will love the Nighthawk
  4. The Kurgan

    The Kurgan Firing on one cylinder

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2007
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    497
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    North of 49, in a place called The Hammer
    I can tell you that prices vary based on geographic location, add-ons, and overall condition. I personally wouldn't take a penny under $7000 for mine! :1drink
    (mine looks like it was just rolled off a showroom floor and has all the nice Hondaline goodies, plus Corbin, Progressive springs, and a sweet full-system Supertrapp exhaust)
  5. mrbreeze

    mrbreeze Long timer

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    I guess I should have given the mileage. It's just under 25,000.

    I checked my mad money, and it's not as healthy as I thought it was, so I no longer expect to pursue this at this time.

    If anyone is interested, it's at Honda of Cool Springs, in Franklin, TN.

    no affiliation here, just passing along the info.
  6. Keithert

    Keithert Long timer

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    NW suburbs of Chicago, IL
    I have been interested in the most recent generation Nighthawk since it came out. I nearly purchased one in 2002. Last night a friend let me ride his. As soon as I got on it I felt that I had to really lift my legs to get to the pegs. They were set very high for a standard bike. Also I was leaning forward more than I would expect on a standard. I hate to say it but the Nighthawk 750 may be too sporty for me. I know the bars can be raised easily. How about the foot pegs? Can they be lowered easily? Does someone make a kit to do this?
  7. The Kurgan

    The Kurgan Firing on one cylinder

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2007
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    Location:
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    There are a variety of mods that can **slightly raise the bars up and forward (risers) and pegs down about 1 inch. However, it sounds like a standard is not in your calling, and you might want to look at cruising bikes. The strength of the Nighthawk is its versatility, and that very slight sporting position lends itself well to canyon carving and sportier handling.
  8. Keithert

    Keithert Long timer

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    I'm not sure I would rule it out just yet. If it could give it those mods it might be do-able. Where have you seen the footpeg mods? A google search didn't reveal much. I've also been looking at the new CB1100. I wonder how much different or not it's seating position is. From side by side pics the NH seems to have the peg in the middle of the clutch cover while the 1100 seems to be at the bottom. So it might have a couple inches more legroom.
  9. The Kurgan

    The Kurgan Firing on one cylinder

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    497
    Location:
    North of 49, in a place called The Hammer
    I have to dig up the source on the pegs, but others have fabbed their own.

    I also recommend this great site... it provides you with an idea of how modifcations affect ergos, specific to the Nighthawk 750:

    http://cycle-ergo.com/
  10. ridewv

    ridewv Been here awhile

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    Apr 27, 2005
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    545
    Location:
    West Virginia
    I’ve not sat on a CB1100 yet but according to http://cycle-ergo.com/ it is a bit tighter than the Nighthawk 750.

    Nighthawk 750

    seat height 31.9”
    forward lean 8*
    knee angle 83


    CB1100
    seat height 30.5”
    forward lean 8*
    knee angle 72 (smaller number means more bent)


    Riding my Nighthawk I find the knee angle pretty relaxed but I just kept feeling I was sitting a little low and too far forward making my knees feel too high. My solution was ordering a Corbin seat which eliminates the slight forward slope and positions you a little more rearward. Additionally I had them raise the riders portion of the seat about 1/2 inch. Best $350 I’ve ever spent on a seat, it is extremely comfortable now all day long.


    Stock
    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
  11. The Kurgan

    The Kurgan Firing on one cylinder

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    Yeah the Corbon raised my seat height about 1 inch (for the better). I see you removed the Hondaline windshield. I did the same, but added it back later. No fun fighting the wind at highway speeds.
  12. ridewv

    ridewv Been here awhile

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    I like riding it better w/o the shield, especially since the weather's been so nice. The only time I think I'd want it on would be when it's very cold or raining. It only takes a few minutes to bolt it back on so I may give it another try though.
  13. The Kurgan

    The Kurgan Firing on one cylinder

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    497
    Location:
    North of 49, in a place called The Hammer
    I really like the Hondaline windshield for three main reasons: it's not handlebar mounted, as that limited real estate is used by my RAM mounts, it's a super rigid mounting solution, and it actually deflects most wind without looking like you have a barn door in front of you. :) It's also not too difficult to remove: just four easy-to-access bolts on the fork-mounted clamps (which I also upgraded).

    I'm not sure if you're interested, but I modified the mounting hardware by drilling completely through the bar for each of the four windshield bolts. I added longer and better quality bolts, and used nylon threaded nuts to secure them in place. I had no less than two cross-threaded bolt holes, and while I was able to retap the threads, it left me wanting to improve them, so I did the simple mod. Now it's a snap to remove the windshield for occasional cleaning without worry about further cross-threading or damaging the soft Hondaline Allen bolt heads. It's hard to tell in this photo, but you can just see one of the bolts...

    [​IMG]
  14. ridewv

    ridewv Been here awhile

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    Sounds like a good idea I may do that if/when mine ever get stripped.

    LOL when I first looked at and bought my bike the owner had the windshield brackets mounted below the triple clamp, ON the fork tubes!:huh The shield was covering the top of the headlight. I told him it appeared he had the brackets in the wrong location, they go up above the clamp. He said "so that's why I get so much air, it's too low!" After I bought it and got it home the first thing I did was remove and relocate it. I couldn't believe it didn't do any damage at all. Not the slightest scratch on the fork tubes or damaged fork seals where the sliders certainly contacted the bracket on their upward travel. It never ceases to amaze me what these bikes can tolerate!
  15. The Kurgan

    The Kurgan Firing on one cylinder

    Joined:
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    That almost defies logic! :rofl
  16. EarlB3

    EarlB3 Cafe Dude

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    Oct 6, 2013
    Oddometer:
    4
    Location:
    Dallas, TX
    I stupidly used OLD thread lock on the fork tube Allen bolt (at bottom of fork tube). I noticed an hour after I had done it that the tester thread lock I had saved was still runny. No big deal-Autozone is close by. I get some new thread lock and loosen the bolts, but they will only loosen. They will not come all the way off!!! I even tried inserting the springs. I realy want to re-seat these w good, new thread lock now, but when I turn the hex driver I just hear the oil lock piece spinning in the fork tube.
    Any ideas?
    Thanks!!
  17. EarlB3

    EarlB3 Cafe Dude

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    Dallas, TX
    Im new to the site and tried to post this as a reply to your fork re-build post, but it went to the general forum. I will try again here:

    I stupidly used OLD thread lock on the fork tube Allen bolt (at bottom of fork tube). I noticed an hour after I had done it that the tester thread lock I had saved was still runny. No big deal-Autozone is close by. I get some new thread lock and loosen the bolts, but they will only loosen. They will not come all the way off!!! I even tried inserting the springs. I realy want to re-seat these w good, new thread lock now, but when I turn the hex driver I just hear the oil lock piece spinning in the fork tube.
    Any ideas?
    Thanks!!
  18. The Kurgan

    The Kurgan Firing on one cylinder

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    497
    Location:
    North of 49, in a place called The Hammer
    The fluid in the brake caliper side fork always turns black/grey early... a known characteristic of this model. It may be due to increased flexing (from braking action) and/or increased heating on that side (again, from braking action). I did my fork oil this year, and mine is an '01... and the left tube oil was grey (and smelled) and the right tube oil looked like new. BTW, I used a hacksaw for the spacers as I also did the Progressive spring upgrade. Night and day improvement. While you're in there, you might as well do the seals and dust covers.
  19. threadkiller

    threadkiller Long timer

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  20. EarlB3

    EarlB3 Cafe Dude

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    Oct 6, 2013
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Dallas, TX
    1. Secured the carbs to head
    2. Secured Air intakes to carbs
    3. put thin film of fork oil all around the openings of the air cleaner connecting tubes which connect to air box.
    4. Trying to WEDGE the air box onto the air cleaner conecting tube (UNSUCCESSFULLY do far) :(


    Im lost. Any ideas?

    http://youtu.be/h8y6CXDn9tE