Official Yamaha DT200 thread

Discussion in '2 smokers' started by jfman, Jul 12, 2013.

  1. jfman

    jfman Long timer

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    Lets see them! Heres mine. Stock 4k kms on ité Run well but fouls plugs. I suspect someone messed with the jets..







    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. dpforth

    dpforth no inline fours

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    507
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    YQQ
    [​IMG]

    I hope someone has a good pic of what the '200' sidecover decals are supposed to look like, I'd like to get some made.
    #2
  3. Chillis

    Chillis Long timer

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    Did this bike make it stateside?

    Nice ride.
    #3
  4. jfman

    jfman Long timer

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    Dpforth - yours look cherry!



    Sorry they didn sell these in the us.
    #4
  5. dpforth

    dpforth no inline fours

    Joined:
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    It is amazingly clean. Motor needed a full overhaul when I got it but other than that it had great potential. Repainted the exhaust, redid the number plate backgrounds but other than that just a good clean and polish. Still has original mirrors and signals! How often can you say that about a 25yo dirt bike.
    #5
  6. jfman

    jfman Long timer

    Joined:
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    2,102
    Location:
    Montreal, Canada
    Abandoned gravel pit
    Decent view on this ledge.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    View from below
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    The dudes working the scales were "blown away" when they saw how light the DT is
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Then...
    A not so abandoned gravel pit mine
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Gravity well that runs 24/7
    [​IMG]
    #6
  7. dpforth

    dpforth no inline fours

    Joined:
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    507
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    Jfman,
    Any chance you could post up a good, detail picture of the '200' decal on your right side panel? I need to have some made.
    Cheers
    #7
  8. 00Buck

    00Buck dirt rules

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2004
    Oddometer:
    212
    Location:
    South Vancouver Island, BC
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NN7srrIsKKY

    No pictures handy but here's a crappy walkaround video I made in '09 of my 1996 DT200.

    Bought it in '07 with 14K, now has 24K.
    New Wiseco piston at 20K other than that, it is bone stock.

    As far as I know, DT200's never made it onto US soil. I think last year for Canada was this model in '96.
    I guess 2 smokes were deemed to dirty for street legal status after that..
    #8
  9. bchunter

    bchunter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    120
    Location:
    Smithers, BC
    K, I am going to represent for my riding buddy who is having some tech problems in getting his pics up here.

    Here are his stats:

    2 DT 200's = 40,000+ km's

    Here are some pics of his and my 2T's:

    [​IMG]

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    That DT is a way more reliable platform then my TS 200 was when it was in it's stock form (glad I got that changed). His DT is bone stock as well, and just as a point of reference, two years ago he did a 2100 km ride on it where my TS broke half way through. I would not hesitate to buy a DT.

    And I tried to put up the pics with the DT in the front......

    :clap:clap:clap:clap
    #9
  10. bchunter

    bchunter Been here awhile

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    120
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    Smithers, BC
    And here is proof that he uses it as it is meant to be used. During his winter upkeeping, inspection of the clutch basket demonstrated that both the machine is tough and that he is not afraid to use the machine:

    [​IMG]

    Think a new one is in order, eh???
    #10
  11. 2Trider

    2Trider Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2008
    Oddometer:
    272
    Location:
    Hazelton BC
    So I figure I will add some info on the DT200R model in above pics.
    The various parts can be had through Yamaha USA, Canada(if it happens to be model specific) or aftermarket.
    Yamaha Canada has the parts Fiche on there site and I use Partszilla to check PN availability in the US (nice thing with Partszilla is you can see what other bikes used that part if you wanted to dig up a aftermarket piece....possibly)

    Motor:
    Piston and Rings can be had through Wiseco as well as head and base gaskets. I 99% suspect the WR200 cylinder and head will bolt on with the exhaust flange being the difference...be a good replacement should one kill the DT cyl.
    Clutch:
    As in the pic above the stock one is toast after about 25-30 000km
    Ordered a new one from Yamaha Canada (PN 3ET 16150 for $255) and it is slightly different in width of the 16 tooth driven gear. The new one is 2mm wider over the original. Now this makes me think that the WR Basket and the DT one are the same other than the how the gears are attached to the basket.
    So had to shave 2mm off the 4mm washer behind the driven gear or I suspect the use of the WR200 washer (PN 90201-180P2-00) is thinner and is what is required. Steel Plates and Fiber Plates etc are the same for both.

    Clutch cover gasket is the same as the WR.

    The Tack fitting that goes in the case is a US PN as well.

    Sprockets can be had through JT (Front PN JTF 564.13) (Rear JTR 853.pick your teeth, I use 46 so JTR 853.46)

    Front wheel Bearings are 6202 2rs times 2

    Rear wheel bearings are 6004 2rs times 3

    Suspension Linkage bearings are HK202720UU times 6 (2 stock bearings are narrower but these ones fit in no problem) and these bearings are also rubber sealed as a bonus. The 6 stock seals are not available in Canada so do not loose them.

    Shock can be disassembled for fluid changes easily. Pull the dust cover off the main body then the shaft seal inside has a notch on its outer circumference...use that notch to get the circlip out by rotating the seal and working the circlip out. Pull the seal out and there will be another circlip further down the body. Pull that and the whole shaft and valving stack comes out.
    The reservoir has one circlip and 2 caps will slide out...there is no nitrogen bladder. The nitrogen is held between the 2 caps which are o-ring sealed.
    Nitrogen charge should be at 213psi upon refilling.

    Top rubber shock bushing is PN 90387-127G8

    Lower shock spherical bearing is PN 93399-999T3 (this does not show on the DT fiche)
    And the 2 seals for the lower spherical are PN 93104-18077

    Brake pads can be had aftermarket ie through Dunlop Pad (PN DP406) both front and rear..just cross reference for another manufacture of pads

    Headlight lens was available in the USA but has been discontinued...have not checked in Canada yet

    Front fender is a US PN
    Same with Speedo cable, Steering head lower taper bearing and upper bearing assembly as well


    Surprisingly a lot of parts can be ordered through Yamaha dealers in the states so depending on the CDN $$ can be way cheaper
    #11
  12. dtysdalx2

    dtysdalx2 PITA but useful

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    Cool bike! Kinda like the WR's stateside?
    #12
  13. Chillis

    Chillis Long timer

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    They never made a street legal 2 stroke WR, I think.

    If they did, I want one!
    #13
  14. YZEtc

    YZEtc Feel lucky?

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Connecticut
    I bought a brand-new Canadian market 1990 DT-200RA in February of 1991.
    Very good bike, I felt.
    These bikes were not sold in the USA.

    The engine design of the 1989-and-later DT-200R is what the USA market 1992 WR-200R used as a base (the rest of the bike was completely different).
    The engines were not exactly the same, but close, and while many of the parts were the same, some of the biggies (like the cylinder) were different.
    In fact, the 1992 WR-200R sold in the USA was basically a foreign market model called the DT-200WR stripped of it's street-legal equipment like the battery, turn signals, oil injection pump, etc.
    This was one of the gripes the magazine testers had with the WR-200R back then, actually:
    It was a stripped dual-purpose bike, and they saw that as a cop-out in place of a more serious dirt bike.
    #14
  15. Parx400

    Parx400 Long timer

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    Anyone know if there is a large tank that fits the wr200? I heard some rumors about the yz tank and seat off a 88-92 or 93-95 yz fitting the bike. You can get a 3.7 gal for both those bikes.
    #15
  16. RebelYell

    RebelYell Been here awhile

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    Jan 2, 2012
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    596
    Location:
    somerset nj
    I have a air cooled 175 does any one know if switching out the silencer for a slip on fmf unit will make a difference or am I wasting my time n money doing so?
    #16
  17. H1rider

    H1rider n00b

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2014
    Oddometer:
    2
    Hi, I just joined the forum when I saw there was an active DT200 thread! Mine's an '85 with 21,000km on the clock but has been in the shed for 10 years. I pulled it out last week and moved it into the garage to go over it and see what it might need.
    My son rode it last and it quit on him so I just put it in the shed and let it leak oil all over the place, so I don't know what it might need. I have found that info on these bikes is hard to find. I bought the Yamaha manual when I bought the bike in '03, but the pics aren't great so I'll be asking a few questions , no doubt!
    I'd like to figure out Yamaha's parts codes because I've found very similar part numbers for the IT200 and the YFS200. Any thoughts?
    #17
  18. jfman

    jfman Long timer

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    You can setill buy all the parts from a Canadian dealer.

    What kind off oil is it leaking? gear oil ? or two stroke oil?


    If it only leaks when the motor is running look at the crank seals.
    #18
  19. YZEtc

    YZEtc Feel lucky?

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    214
    Location:
    Connecticut
    The DT-200R engine, up to and including 1988, is similar to the YFS-200 Blaster ATV engine, with the YFS-200 missing the liquid cooling and electric YPVS power valve.

    The only thing in common with the IT-200 engine is the diameter of the bore and the physical appearance of the finning on the cylinder and cylinder head.
    These engines are as different as can be:
    The front sprocket and clutch assembly are on opposite sides, the IT-200 has no rotating counterbalancer, and the general architecture of the IT-200 engine has it's crankcase being smaller than the DT-200R or YFS-200 engine.
    The IT-200 design comes from the 1980 YZ-125G.

    I would also order my parts from a bona-fide Yamaha motorcycle dealer, and would only look elsewhere if a part were discontinued and no longer available from a Yamaha dealer.

    I feel the genuine Yamaha Service Manuals are the best ones for the bike.
    Study it.

    The typical Yamaha part number is written as so:
    XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX.
    When comparing Yamaha part numbers to see what will fit what, you need to take note of the first eight digits, at least.
    Just looking at the middle five won't cut it because two part numbers having -23145- in it will only tell you that both are fork oil seals and they could be for different bikes with different dimensions.

    In other words, the fork oil seals of a 1977 DT-100D would not fit a 2002 YZ-250FP, would they?
    Yet, they both share the same middle five digits of -23145- .

    The first three digits of a part number are the model code.
    Every Yamaha motorcycle, ATV, or scooter has a model code assigned to it.
    The 1988 YFS-200U was 2XJ.
    The 1984 IT-200L was 43G.
    The 1980 YZ-125G was 3R3.

    Whenever a part appears for the first time, it will forever more use the model code for the bike it first appeared on.
    So, it the fork oil seals that were first used a 1977 DT-100D were used on a 2014 model, the part number would start with the same three digits.
    #19
  20. H1rider

    H1rider n00b

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2014
    Oddometer:
    2
    Thanks for the replies, I can see this is the place to get good info! Thanks,YZEtc, for straightening me out about the part numbers. It's good to hear that parts are still available for this bike, 'cause I'm going to need a few!
    Had a chance today to chase down the oil leak - I took off the skid plate and took a look at the cases. It appeared the oil was coming from the case seam in the crankcase area-oh, oh. So I cleaned the area well and took a pic: [​IMG]

    the top of the pic is up toward the exhaust.
    I let it sit for about 5 min. and took another pic:[​IMG]

    you can see the oil starting to seep out.
    Two hours later another pic:[​IMG]

    a few more hours and that drop will hit the floor! It's been doing that for almost ten years! I took a piece of clean white paper and touched it to the drop to ensure it's oil and not solvent from my cleaning and it had the viscosity of oil and the same colour as the injector oil.
    I noticed it's quite oily where the oil line runs into the intake so it would appear the oil has been running in there, filling the crankcase. I haven't checked the manual yet, but is there a check valve in the pump to prevent this? Irregardless, I have a case leak!! I hope to do a pressure test if only to know how much that leak will show up in terms of pressure loss.

    Next problem is there is no spark. This is what brought the bike to a halt 10 years ago. I've found the flowchart for fault finding the ignition and will have a go at that in the near future. I had to re-splice all the wires in the harness at the steering head years ago because of a number of opens. I soldered all the joints but will have to verify continuity every step of the way.

    One more problem is 6th gear - it's not there! Just a big old neutral where it used to be! Shifting while not running doesn't seem great and I remember now that the transmission did sound 'loose' when in 6th - hard to describe, just didn't sound good. I've never split cases so if you can give advice, please do.
    #20