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Discussion in 'Trials' started by rotorhead511, Dec 17, 2012.
Yeah I had that problem looking for premix. Let us know how the redline works!
I wish Jon Stoodley was on this forum, but higher #w/# means the oil is thicker.
You might as well know now, if this is your FIRST gasgas... That the Gasgas PRO models NEVER feels perfectly out of gear, when you pull in on the clutch lever. I dont care how perfectly you adjust everything. Honda/montessa is the only bike I have tried that completely lets loose like a street bike does... It is something you get used to very fast. I cannot think Ossa is any different, I rode a 12 sherco but cant racall exactly how it felt, seems it was not far different.
But if you use thicker oils, the clutch seems to pull more when clutch is in, I think because it tends to act like the Torq Converter on an automatic transmission... that is why (as far as I know) we've found out that some use ATF in the past, shared with trials riders around the world. now there are several flavors of oils you can try, I think 10w/30 is the wrong way, especially for colder climates.
Do what you want though. The longevity of the bike, will depend on 3 (plus many more) factors, BUT the only part that deals with oil would be changing whatever you use, with 10 hours of run time, mainly because this oil lubes the main crank bearings, and there will always be some bits & shavings from transmission gears, and clutch fibers...
other reasons bikes may or may not last...
1 contamination from water (usually waterpump seal) corrupts the oil, if left could cause bearing damage on output shaft bearing, it is a 2 piece bearing.
2 how you beat on the shifter when changing gears.
3 how you use the bike. (abuse neglect).
I have friends with 02 Pro's. they have hellish hours on them, My new rider bought this one... we changed the clutch spring (easier clutch pulling) and a few clutch plates to adjust the fingers to within spec, which helps how hard the clutch is to pull... other than that, the bikes are pretty damn durable. This particular bike WAS NOT ridden by pro or master riders, but sheesh, it is over 10 years old.
Yea and don't forget you are comparing gear oils against engine oils. They are measured on two different SAE viscosity scales. Examples are 90wt gear oil is approx the same vis as a 50wt engine oil. 80wt is approx the same as a 20wt engine oil, etc...
I agree with your information, BUT...
just don't confuse everyone in this thread... we're definitely not talking about "gear oil"!!! we're talking about light viscosity engine/motor oils, or AutoMatic transmission fluids... I would hate to think someone tries 90wt gear oil, the clutch probably wouldnt even disengage,
Thread #40 mentions 80wt transmission fluid and I believe the Sherco oil thread mentions 75wt oil from RYP. These are both gear oils. Lots of people think these oils are waaaaay heavier than a 5w-30 engine oil or other common engine or ATF's, when in reality they may not be.
That is wierd, one friend had like an 04 sherco 290, the previous owner sold it to him with the oils he had leftover (went to gasgas I believe) he'd ran belray something makes me think it was 20w oil? (I DONT KNOW)
Later that year he sold that sherco, bought a gasgas, and long story short, apparently decided he was too cheap to get the oil for the gasgas like he'd been told, and tried to use the leftover sherco oil. Nothing bad happened, but he couldnt ride the gasgas with that oil in it, clutch just felt like crap, so he had to change it out again, things were fine. this was when we were using that GM Autotrak2 stuff.
Weight of the oil for the sherco, could be wrong in story above, seems like that was several years back, and is only anecdotal evidence even now.
Tried to source the Redline 80w gear oil without any success so went ahead with the Redline 10w30. Put exactly 380cc in this time and no clutch drag. Clutch feels allot smother at creeping speed and (could be my imagination) shifts even feel better. If only this stuff was cheaper I'd be sold on it, best price I could find is 9 bucks a quart and have to buy it by the case. Curious to find out how much the Yamalube 0w30 oil can be had for.
Back when I worked at the yamaha shop we always ran Bel Ray gear saver oil in the two strokes. That`s probably what was in the sherco. Would not work well in a pro. I switched to atf when I bought my first beta in `91. The old txt`s could run the real motorcycle blend oils, but a few still ran atf. The gear oils we are talking about are made for a two stroke motorcycle and are not the heavy hypoid oils. I`ve always ran dex 3 in the pro`s, but might consider the redline for better lubrication. Have to have the best clutch action is the main thing.
Just for memory sake, you "can" use ATF in the Beta then? I thought maybe, but never sure enough to say in a post, that you could. what are the Beta guys running now days?
I hear you about clutch action, I really like how mine felt with that obnoxiously priced GM autotrac2... seems pretty close to the 0w/30 stuff I get from yamalube. I thought I liked various ATF's, but the 1st shot of autotrac2 made a believer out of me, made the clutch so you could really feather it around a tight TIGHT turn. Try it, try the redline too. I think you will see what I mean about difference from light switch feel and what I like is a "dimmer" switch on the clutch...
Where would you get the redline stuff? Scratch that... last thing I need is high dollar oils to keep in stock.
I hate anymore, you have to order & wait for stuff to show up, so the fact that my reasonably close Yamaha dealer, stocks the stuff I use. we still buy it by the case, but you know UPS gets THEM here before Friday when you have to be loaded and head out.
I have had 3 things I ordered for christmas, come from Cali, UPS tracked it to North carolina??? then back to KS. supposed to get here in 3 days, takes a week when you kind of "need" it. Stuff I didnt care when it gets here, takes 2 days, sometimes even when USPS is involved... Go Figure.
I ran Lucas semi-synthetic 10-40 in my '08 Beta and my '11. It would not work in my '12, had to use mobil1 0-20 in it. I'm using Lucas synthetic 10-30 in the '13 4 stroke. I tried ATF in the '08 but I didn't like it at all!
Best price I could find on the Yamalube 0/30 semi synthetic snow mobile oil is 9 bucks a quart and still have to buy a case to get it. On top of that have to pay a shipping cost + tax, so in my case the Redline 10w30 comes out cheaper. Plus its a full synthetic jaso approved motor oil. Still costly but it seems to work the best of all the oils I have tried so far.