Old School Airhead Fish'in

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by bmwhacker, Sep 6, 2011.

  1. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Oddometer:
    9,694
    Location:
    Shoreline, WA

    The /2 guys can speak up, but getting all (less the black bike) for $1K is dirt cheap.

    Ask around about the slingers, just getting the white one started and riding it may be a really bad idea without doing the (expensive) slingers... once again the /2 guys can say for sure
    #21
  2. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    12,364
    Location:
    Silver Spring, Md
    Just getting the white bike for $1000 would be a steal. IMHO. I'm not an expert but have you seen the prices for these things? Yes the white one is a R69 maybe S. The black one is the cheaper /2. If you get them or it do do the slingers. If they are dirty the engine will have little or no pressure.
    #22
  3. bmwhacker

    bmwhacker Still on 3 wheels

    Joined:
    May 6, 2009
    Oddometer:
    4,671
    Location:
    MONTANA NATIVE from NATIVE MONTANA
    Since today is my one day off each week I decided to spend a few minutes and look over the R60 I picked up a couple weeks ago.

    I removed the fuel tank and drained about 2/3 's gallon of varnished old gas. Amazingly the petcocks still functioned although the old right side Everbest tap was pretty stiff. I swapped it with a spare Karcoma I had laying around. The tank interior looks a little dirty so I'll need to flush it out later.

    I pulled the upper spark plugs the day I bought the bike and dumped some motor oil in each cylinder.

    [​IMG]


    I am not "schooled" in dual plug systems so I looked over the different componants under the tank. The little maroon box in front of the coils might be an electronic ignition unit(?) or something to do with the dual plug set up(?)

    [​IMG]


    I opened up the old "Puch" headlamp to look over the altered wiring which I knew lived there. It has a generic ignition switch but I don't have a key. It is a "2 pole" switch so easy to hot wire there.....rigged up an alligator clip to a lug and hooked the lug to pole #2. The other wire to the switch will be hot all the time when the battery is connected.
    I looked over other errant wires on the chassis and taped and made sure nothing visible was going to short out upon bringing the electrical system back to life.The 1971 wiring harness has no fuses in the system so I temporarily wired in an newer style spade fuse to the main ignition switch lead to be on the safe side.

    [​IMG]


    I have a weak battery sitting around so hooked it to the charger for a while. My other bikes each have Oddysey dry cell batteries but I didn't want to risk installing one of them in case of a major short somewhere.
    I got the weak battery up to 80% and replaced the old small honda battery that was in the holder. I hooked up the battery and saw no small spark when hooking up the ground. So far so good.

    I jumped the ignition switch and a blinker came on....then bumped the electric starter and we had life.

    I removed the carb tops and sprayed some silicone spray on the slides and checked them for proper operation. Nice and smooth and don't appear to stick.
    Made sure the oil was up to full in the crankcase. I removed the air intake tubes since I hadn't looked into the airbox yet....could be rodents still living there...

    I pulled one plug and grounded it, bumped the starter and we had spark....another plus.
    Rigged up a little syringe fuel holder and clamped it into the fuel system. I dumped a little fuel into the syringe and fully expected fuel to begin leaking from the carbs ......but no leaks seen.

    [​IMG]

    The time had come......choked the carbs and hit the ignition....she stumbled for a moment and to my amazement it fired up with a blast of smoke from the oil I had put into the cylinders. I de-choked the carbs and the engine settled right into a nice smooth idle.
    I ran a full syringe worth of fuel through the old girl. The throttle response seemed a little slow but the engine sounds real good with no un normal sounds emminating. After a few minutes warm up I pulled the plugs to look them over. Upon removal I see that the lower spark plugs are a shorter thread plug than the upper ones....maybe for piston clearance? The plugs were very dirty so wire brushed them and reinstalled. Then ran another small dose of fuel in and ran it for a few more minutes.
    So....happy days!:clap....looks like the engine is in basic working order. I wanted to install the tank and take it around the block but I'll save that for another day. Will need to change out tansmission fluid, final drive and drive line fluids before running it anywhere. Luckily this thing sat out of the weather for the past 5-6 years since it was parked.

    [​IMG]


    Contacted the seller and he informed me that he can't find the parts he said he had....RE: front and rear fenders, toaster tank panels, tail light and rear blinkers....bummer.....

    So this bike will sit until I figure out what to do with it.
    Looks like for once the "IT WAS RUNNING WHEN I PARKED IT" was true.:lol3
    #23
  4. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

    Joined:
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    Silver Spring, Md
    The place where the top plug is is made to hold the standard length plug and the fins around it are sculpted for the plug to fit there. The place where the bottom plug is is made to hold a plug that was not in the original design and the metal is not as thick there. You end up with the short plugs on the bottom. The area can be filled a little and made thicker so you can end up with a standard length plug on the bottom also but most don't do it that way. Ted Porter makes them thicker.

    It does look like a dura spark box. Still has points? maybe. and also the mechanical advance unit? If you check the timing you might be surprised that total advance is not as high as a single plug machine, This is part of the dual plugging routine. there seem to be several different expert opinions on exsactly how much total advance and how fast and how it is reached but it should be part of the tune of your new bike. I can't really tell you any more because I'm not an expert and I don't have dual plugging. But I think I might have it sometime in the future and then I'll be an expert.

    I'm not sure about this last part but I think you are supposed to have both top plugs fired by one side of the coil and both bottom plugs fired by the other side. It's not important at any rate, at this point in time, just getting her running. But the idea is that if one of the coils fails, you can lose the top or the bottom plugs and still run. But with one whole side fired by one coil you could lose a whole cylinder. Again, I've never done this before so check it out. As long as everything is working it should run fine and be easier starting.
    #24
  5. bmwhacker

    bmwhacker Still on 3 wheels

    Joined:
    May 6, 2009
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    4,671
    Location:
    MONTANA NATIVE from NATIVE MONTANA

    I'll be digging in a little deeper next time I mess with the bike. Haven't pulled the front engine cover to look at things there so don't know if a set of points / mechanical advance still reside there.
    Thanks for the input as this is my first experience with any dual plugged engine. Why someone would spend the money (must be pretty expensive to have done?) to "dual plug" an R60 engine is beyond me.

    The PO didn't wire in any of the "idiot" lights when he slapped the thing together....I see in the headlight shell that there are a couple of external shell lights (likely 6 volt) that have been painted over. Maybe I can use them for the standard BMW Dummy lights.
    I've sold numerous sets of fenders / tail lights / turn signals in the past and here I now sit needing them.:lol3

    Maybe I'll just wire in an "off the shelf" generic tail light and mount some repro bar end signals, skip the fenders and be done with it.
    #25
  6. briarpatch

    briarpatch Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2008
    Oddometer:
    57
    Location:
    Pineola, Western NC
    I have a black rear fender off a 74? R75/6. If it'll fit, it's yours. I live in the NC mountains. THANKS - Stan
    #26
  7. bmwhacker

    bmwhacker Still on 3 wheels

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    WOW! I know it will fit! I've used later model fenders on the /5's before. I'll PM you!

    Thanks for your help. Maybe I got something you need?
    #27
  8. briarpatch

    briarpatch Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2008
    Oddometer:
    57
    Location:
    Pineola, Western NC
    Coming to ya! If I ever get to Montana I reckon I could use a cold beer...........THANKS - Stan:freaky
    #28
  9. bmwhacker

    bmwhacker Still on 3 wheels

    Joined:
    May 6, 2009
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    4,671
    Location:
    MONTANA NATIVE from NATIVE MONTANA

    You are on!
    If I EVER get out East I will deliver to your door!:freaky
    Thanks.
    #29
  10. JLeather

    JLeather Bike Butcherer

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    307
    Location:
    Maryland
    $1k for just the white bike would be about 1/4 the going rate for it on eBay. If you can get it for anything under $2k you could double your money, and that's not even parting it out. I watched an R69S steering damper (different from the R60 and R50) bring $600, those heads alone are $300+ for the pair, etc.

    If you pick those parts up and wanna sell some I could use a stock tank for the R69S project bike I've got.
    #30
  11. bmwhacker

    bmwhacker Still on 3 wheels

    Joined:
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    Thanks to the generosity of fellow inmate Briarpatch I have a rear fender heading my way. Bought an original paint front /5 fender on EBay last night for 50 bucks, so she'll have fenders on her soon.

    I went to the EBay "Airhead" parts "Ending soonest" and saw an aftermarket BMW bucket seat & backrest bid @ $.99 with 20 seconds left....like a dumbass I threw a $1.04 bid at it and won, without seeing the ridiculous shipping quote of $50.00.:eek1
    My thought was to chop the back half of the seat off and make a solo seat out of it. Not sure if that is feasible but we'll see. It has a back rest and pad so that might be worth something to somebody.
    I've had a similar ugly period seat in the past and actually it was pretty comfortable....
    but nauseating to look at....:puke2
    #31
  12. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2011
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    I've made the same mistake with Ebay. Chalk it up to a learning experience. I don't think you will have much luck improving the seat with a hack saw. But don't let me discourage you. Since it is ugly already then it's fair game. But yeah I've had ugly parts on my bike and I usually get tired of them. I have a tank with a slow leak where the left knee pad should be. I soldered it once but never relined the tank so it started to leak again. it's a very slow leak and never drips. It just stays wet, and ugly. I finally found a better tank and may have it on today. I think I've had the leaky one for about 5 years.
    #32
  13. bmwhacker

    bmwhacker Still on 3 wheels

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    4,671
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    I think every avid old BMW rider has had one of the ugly bucket seats collecting dust in the corner of the garage at one time or another.
    I've practically given away a couple myself.
    Now I'll be the proud owner of another one.:cry

    I'm sharpening my hacksaw as we speak....Maybe I can start a new thread: "How to butcher an ugly seat".

    [​IMG]
    #33
  14. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2008
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    6,831
    Location:
    Back in Seattle, FINALLY
    In my limited seat carving experience, I've had pretty good success with an electric carving knife (yes, the kind that some people have in their kitchen) for the bigger cuts and an angle grinder with a flap wheel or the finer shaping operations. Get ready to make a mess. The 8 lb rebond foam is what most pro saddle makers use if they need to add material. It feels a little hard, but it softens up with use. Find the right spray adhesive for the job and you'll be good to go. Usually seat shops get the final shape "close enough" and then wrap the entire thing in a 1/2" sheet of softer foam to take up the small surface imperfections.
    #34
  15. bmwhacker

    bmwhacker Still on 3 wheels

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    I think my biggest problem will be figuring out the upholstery at the back end to make it look right.
    My upholstery skills are par with my nuclear engineering knowledge.
    The seat presently living on the R60 looks "lumpy" so there's something bunched up under the cover. Maybe it has household sponges stuck under it ...or maybe something has taken up residence there?:lol3
    The previous owner was quite proud of the recently (10 years ago) recovered seat. As he was pointing out the "new" cracked 10 year old Continental tires.
    #35
  16. briarpatch

    briarpatch Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2008
    Oddometer:
    57
    Location:
    Pineola, Western NC
    Rear fender w/most of taillight left Pineola this afternoon. Let me know if you don't see it by next weekend. THANKS - Stan
    #36
  17. bmwhacker

    bmwhacker Still on 3 wheels

    Joined:
    May 6, 2009
    Oddometer:
    4,671
    Location:
    MONTANA NATIVE from NATIVE MONTANA

    Thanks:clap...I'll be wait'in by the mailbox!:happay
    #37
  18. Bill Harris

    Bill Harris Confirmed Curmudgeon

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2008
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    Location:
    backwoods Alabama
    [QUOTE='whacker]My thought was to chop the back half of the seat off and make a solo seat out of it. Not sure if that is feasible... [/QUOTE]Do-able-- I did just that to a Mustang bucket seat last year and it worked well (but the seat was deteriorating from old-age and I ended up getting a Bill Mayer rebuild on it last May). The solo bucket seat was a good test-run. Start that "seat mod" thread and I'll chime in. The tricky part was doing the "patch" across the rear of the solo seat.
    #38
  19. bmwhacker

    bmwhacker Still on 3 wheels

    Joined:
    May 6, 2009
    Oddometer:
    4,671
    Location:
    MONTANA NATIVE from NATIVE MONTANA

    Here is the "$1.04" seat.
    I've owned a few QSL 1000 mile solo seats and really like them. The QSL seats are always getter harder to find and pretty pricey when you find a complete one with mounting hardware.

    This thing appears to be in pretty good shape. The first cut will be the hardest.
    [​IMG]

    Wow, just noticed.....my 2000th. post.....guess I'll have a drink to celebrate.:freaky
    #39
  20. crazydrummerdude

    crazydrummerdude Wacky Bongo Boy

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,926
    Location:
    El Segundo, CA
    I just gave a nearly identical seat off my R90/6 to an inmate for the cost of shipping... $53.03.

    Shipping sucks.

    [​IMG]
    #40