On the Road to Mexico and the American West

Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by BMW Kurt, Mar 16, 2012.

  1. BMW Kurt

    BMW Kurt Bannned

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    I had my first (and only, I hope) run in with a Transito (Local Traffic Police). As I pulled into the town of Panuco (just SW of Tampico) I was motioned to pull over by a young man in uniform. He asked for my license and I reluctantly gave it to him. He kept pointing at my TVIP and I just kept saying "Lo siento, hablo un poco de espanol. Soy turisto". He gave up on that and stared at my licence. I think he told me that my license was not valid for motorcycles. I pointed to the M on the license and said "Moto". He then started pointing to my speedometer and saying something. I began giving him an English lesson. "Si! Speed-o-meter, tach-o-meter, o-do-meter". He then became interested in my SPOT. I told him it was for "satellito". He then seem to get bored with me and let me go on my way.

    As I was riding something did not feel right. I looked back and my top case was dangling from the back of the bike! A tope had busted my mounting bracket.

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    Luckily I had some of straps that BMW uses to strap down motorcycles for transatlantic shipping and I was able to use those to strap the top case back onto the bike.

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    I knew there was a BMW dealer in Veracruz so I made for there. It was Sunday and I was not going to be able to Veracruz that night so I found a cheap hotel in Palma Sola. Palma Sola is a wide spot in the road that is mainly small restaurants and vulkas (tire repair). The hotel cost me $15.

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    The toilet did not have a seat.

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    But it did have a pool and an outdoor gym!

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    The next morning (thank goodness dealers are open here on Mondays) I made it to the BMW dealer in Boca del Rio.

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    They did not have the part but the person I spoke with said he could have it welded and I could pick it up at 10:00AM the next day. Sounded good to me! I had to find a hotel for the night and found one about a mile from the dealer. What a hotel. I think it was formerly one of the infamous "Love Motels" These are private motels with rooms for you and your mistress/girlfriend. The parking spots have curtains you can draw so no one can see your car and figure out you are there. These rooms usually rent in 3 to 5 hour increments. When I saw my room I was amazed! It had a mirror on the ceiling, bidet, and jacuzzi for two. A tissue dispenser was on the wall near the bed. The TV even had three channels of porn.

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    I aked the receptionist if this was a motel or a hotel and I think she told me it used to be a motel but that it wasn't any longer. There were families staying at the place so I assumed it was kosher to be there alone.

    The next morning I woke up early and rode to the beach to check my maps and wait for the dealership to open.

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    I went to the dealer and the part had been welded and I was on my way buy 11:00AM. The day's ride was more of the same. Topes, check points, heat.

    It was kind of cool riding through the pineapple fields.

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    I made it to Coatzacoalcos and found a hotel near the beach. I was feeling down (heat) and decided to cancel the trip to Central America. After checking my maps I saw that I was so close to Belize and Guatemala that I would hate myself if I did not visit them. I think I am just going to recoup today here and throw my plans out the window. Flexibility is going to be the name of the game from here.

    Hasta luego!
    #41
  2. =[BAD]=TEX

    =[BAD]=TEX Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Lindale TX
    :lurk I'm in! I'm just down the road from your home in longview.... Lindale TX! :clap
    #42
  3. gremor

    gremor RS'er

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    This should get good, no plans are the best plans:clap
    #43
  4. acejones

    acejones Long timer

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    MS. Gulf Coast
    Thats when I was growing up in Shreveport (50's-60's). Ride safe. Regarding the heat. I decided many years ago that Mexico is best considered a winter sport.:rofl
    #44
  5. Boojum

    Boojum I Miss the PartyBoss

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Ringgold, Ga.....Saaalute!
    HiYa Kurt! :wave Glad your having fun on your " I don't know where the Hell I'm going tour ".....:lol3 But, as previously mentioned, THAT makes it a real adventure. Have Fun, Be Safe, and all us Old Schoolers will stay tuned to your adventures in Mexico.............. :freaky:thumb

    Boojum
    #45
  6. eap

    eap El Adventurero Solitario

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    Maryland, Least Coast USA
    :lurk
    #46
  7. Sjoerd Bakker

    Sjoerd Bakker Long timer

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    Interesting stuff. Glad to see you are adjusting to Mexican time measurment and daily distance
    As for the heat - it may be tough for you if you are wearing TOO MUCH riding gear. You ought to be wearing a mesh jacket over short sleeves and no teeshirt under it and maybe mesh pants :I just wear jeans.
    I have seen waaaay too many northerners-- and Mexicans too! sweltering in full touring goretech regalia because that is what the European and Gringo bike magazine ads show the serious fashionable riders wearing. Well yaah, if they live in climates where it is chilly all the summer and cold the rest of the year. A few years ago I saw a Mexican riding in 36C temps wearing a full cover leather suit. Spiffy. A stretch down the road I passed him again and he had the leathers top peeled off and sleeves tied together now just with his teeshirt on . One extreme to the other-.
    Also it has already been said , head for higher elevation and it will be cooler quickly. Going south does not mean it will always be hotter. You will be surprised by the temp change in just a short ride uphill or down.It may be 40C in downtown Villahermosa but south and uphill on Mex 195 it will be nuch fresher. Enjoy the warmth,drink lots of water
    #47
  8. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Adios Mexico

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    Back in Seattle, FINALLY
    Just an FYI, the roads are going to be packed with drunks on vacation from today through Sunday so be careful. This is a semana santa, the biggest beach getaway weekend of the year for all the inlanders. The mexican equivalent of spring break. Look out.
    #48
  9. BMW Kurt

    BMW Kurt Bannned

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    Plans have changed! I should have known better than to try this with a plan. More later.
    #49
  10. kitesurfer

    kitesurfer Long timer

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    north florida
    I'm in! i'm marking your citys/sights/experiences on my Mex map by my computer. I'm also taking notes of your hotels and the cost...
    #50
  11. Dillard

    Dillard Seeker

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    'Bama
    #51
  12. David13

    David13 Been here awhile

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    Ah, more Mexico stuff. I am going to have to read all this. But later, as now I'm about to start out from Mulege to Catavina.
    Who said there would be so many on the road for Semana Santa? There was not much at all on my way down last week. It was sparse, and the campers on the beach seemed to be very orderly.
    But some of the beaches were supposedly closed in Cabo.
    dc
    #52
  13. frank wheelbarrow

    frank wheelbarrow ten four

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    NORTHERN UTAH, PLANET EARTH ITS ALL THE SAME!!!
    I'm sorry the American west can wait you need to go see Yaviza! :D Just saying.:norton You can do it!:wink:
    #53
  14. Boojum

    Boojum I Miss the PartyBoss

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    Ringgold, Ga.....Saaalute!


    I know,.....your headed to Cabo for a 3 week drunk! :freaky:freaky :lol3


    Boojum
    #54
  15. artbone

    artbone Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2010
    Oddometer:
    73
    Location:
    San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
    I can't figure out where you are from your posts but if you get near San Miguel de Allende, stop by. I'd love to buy you a beer. SMA is at 6500 ft so it's cool year round. Actually, this is about the hottest time of the year and the high today is supposed to be 85.
    SMA is a beautiful old colonial town with a lot to offer.
    We have a bike club, MotoClasico that meets every wed. at 5 PM at the LongHorn Barbecue. A bunch of old gringos that like to ride bikes, talk about bikes, and drink beer. Stop by if you can.

    Art
    #55
  16. BMW Kurt

    BMW Kurt Bannned

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    Hell, even I don't know where I am here half the time. I have chucked my plan out the window and just riding where I damn well please! It seems I got some bogus information from a local and started heading back north. Hopefully I can do a full update in a day or two. It will include a small town Passion Play complete with Judas hanging from a tree, Chichen Itza, from heat to snow covered mountains, an active volcano, and a Mexico City rush hour ride.

    Damn! I'm having too much fun to do a ride report! (But I will):D
    #56
  17. BMW Kurt

    BMW Kurt Bannned

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    After getting my top box repaired I rode to Coatzacolcos, MX. Coatzacolcos is a resort town and I decided to stay for two days.

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    Leaving Coatzacolcos I rode for Piste which is the village just outside Chichen Itza. That night I made it to Campeche and ate tacos from a street vendor. Anyone who tells you not to eat the street food is crazy. It's about all I've eaten since I have been here. It is better than restaurant food!

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    The next day I made to Piste in the Yucatan. It was Good Friday and the town had a Passion Play complete with Judas hanging from a tree. Judas was portrayed by a real man!

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    Can you spot Judas?

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    There he is!

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    My posada (inn) in Piste, MX.

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    Our preferred mode of transportation is the family car in Mexico! Notice Dad is the only one wearing a helmet.

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    Laundry day in Piste.

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    These are signs I have come to hate. The warn you of the topes.

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    The next day I went to Chichen Itza. I'm glad I did since it won't be here in 2013! I went very early in the morning to avoid the heat and the crowds. About 11:00AM the tour buses full of Germans, French and Americans start arriving and it quickly becomes like Disney World.

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    While I was in Piste I was talking to Mexican who told me that I could not turn in my TVIP in Baja as I had planned. I had no internet access and my Spanish is not good enough to confirm this with any of the officials. I thought he was wrong, but being a Mexican newbie I really didn't know. He told me I had to turn in my TVIP at the same Banjercito where I received it! Damn! Even though I was pretty sure he was wrong, who was I to argue with a Mexican about his own country. I started making plans to return to the states via Eagle Passs, ride across NM and AZ and re-enter Mexico in Baja. It would change the trip drastically, but it would still be a good trip.

    I started heading back for the US. Tomorrow I hope to update you on that leg of the trip.

    Spoiler Alert: The Mexican was wrong!
    #57
  18. mundobravo

    mundobravo Long timer

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    new mexico
    good work getting to Chichen Itza early. Nice photos . Of course that mexican was wrong. Take the ferry to Baja if you can, fun trip. If not , I'm in Santa Fe . Give a shout if you pass by. Beers , bed and parking.
    stay safe
    #58
  19. miguelito

    miguelito Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    505
    Location:
    San Miguel de Allende, GTO, Mexico
    " These are signs I have come to hate. They warn you of the topes."

    Man I love those signs and wish there were more of them to keep me from going airborne!
    #59
  20. mundobravo

    mundobravo Long timer

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    I know what you mean. How about the other way when they just "paint" a tope and you hit the brakes but nothing is there ! But really the best is the way they will just leave the wreckage of a head on crash ( VW van vs Semi Truck) on the road into town with a slow down sign . That shit works for me, at least for a hour or so ..lol ..
    #60