One Day at a time - Riding the Americas

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by RangeRoad, Sep 5, 2017.

  1. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

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    Buen Viaje! I'm in Colombia recuperating from motorcycle accident (nasty spill) and may be here for a while depending on how things work out.. Maybe we will cross path later in the year!
    #21
  2. RangeRoad

    RangeRoad Been here awhile

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    Sorry to hear about your accident. Rest up and get well soon. I should be in Columbia early November, hopefully your back on the road well before that.

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    #22
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  3. RangeRoad

    RangeRoad Been here awhile

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    Day 8 - A bit of a slow start with a fantastic breakfast from my wonderful hosts. I popped by the Triumph dealer in San Jose to get some oil for Lola (she seems to be going through about 1 L every 3000 kms which concerns me). They were fantastic and offered me a test ride on the new Triumph Bobber. I was seconds away from getting the keys only to realize that the owner had taken it out for the day to scope the route for next weeks distinguished gentleman's ride. My dreams of beards, tattoos and boulevard cruising will have to wait for another day.

    For the first time I struggled to find a campsite. I guess I should have known that on the weekends just outside of San Fran the camping gets really busy. All of the state park sites along the coast were booked up and it was getting dark. I stopped by a KOA on the off chance they had a tent site available. They did! But then they told me the price. 100 USD for a tent site! ARE YOU KIDDING ME!? I decided I would rather risk a sleepless night.

    I headed back into the mountains and it was getting dark, not an ideal situation and breaking one of my rules which is not to ride in the dark. I found a private site for $40 dollars, which is still crazy in my opinion. While I was debating the cost and trying to negotiate with the owner another guy rolled in looking for a tent site. I offered to split a site with him and we agreed $20 bucks each was a better price. My new friend's name was Tim. He was an Uber and Lyft driver who recently left LA and is looking for a new place to call home. While he scopes out the driving markets he camps to avoid the crazy high housing costs in the area. We didn't get much time to talk since he had to go out and drive for the evening but it was interesting to hear a bit about his very different way of life. Another reminder to me that not everyone works in an office and goes home to relax every evening.

    Day 9 - Was a very strange day. There were some highlights and also some lows. For some reason I just wasn't enjoying the day all that much. Maybe it was partly due to the lingering cold that I can't seem to get rid of and maybe too many days on the bike in a row.

    The highlights - I got to check out Laguna Seca raceway, Big Sur and ended the day camping off the beach with a spectacular vista to watch the sunset.

    The lowlights - The highway South of Big Sur is still closed so I had to backtrack quite a bit and when I tried to stop in to a small town to catch the second half of the seahawks game I couldn't find anywhere that had the game on. They were even playing the Niners so I figured anywhere in the area would have the game on. To make it worse, the town had a really bad vibe. I was getting a lot of strange looks and nobody welcomed me to any of the restaurants/bars I went to. It was just weird, ever place I went I was just completely ignored. It got in my head a bit and I starred worrying about the road ahead.


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    Day 10 - Just hit the road hard to make a push to San Diego. My girlfriend set me up with her Aunt who lives in the area and I didn't want to miss the opportunity to stay for a couple days. I really like the area south of LA. Lots of beaches and the towns have a cool feeling. Less busy too which is good for this farm kid. I really wasn't impressed with Malibu or Santa Monica, I don't get the hype. If it was my money I would be south of the city for sure.

    Today was a better day. Lots of slow riding through beach towns, long day in the saddle but was feeling good and really enjoying the ride.

    Now a couple days of getting myself and the bike ready before heading to Baja!

    RR
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  4. RangeRoad

    RangeRoad Been here awhile

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    New shoes for Lola today. K60 Scouts from San Diego BMW.

    Triumph dealers need to step up their game. Every time I need something I end up at a BMW dealer. I tried the Triumph shop but they had no stock of any kind for travel tires. How can you sell adventure bikes and not have any tires for proper adventure.

    First impression of the new rubber is good. The head shake at highway speeds is gone which confirms the old battlewing was the problem. I can feel the vibes from the knobs around 15 mph but otherwise pretty smooth. Turn in requires way more effort initially but once they start going they really fall into the turn. Going to take a bit of getting used to. I'm sure that will mellow out as they wear.



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  5. RangeRoad

    RangeRoad Been here awhile

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    Day 12 - The Wall, The Wood and ... Mark

    For some reason I like the idea of adding titles to my posts. Let's see how it goes.

    This morning I had a great chat about bikes and Baja with Mark at Starbucks. His enthusiasm for what I am doing and for riding in Baja were contagious and I'm really excited to cross the border tomorrow.

    I had a chance to visit the Taylor guitars factory today. Very well setup for visitors. I had my pick of pretty well every current Taylor guitar to try out while I waited for the tour. It's cool to see how devoted the company is to using ethically sourced and sustainable woods. They don't just say it, they go out in the field and do it. Bob Taylor has planted trees today for use 70 years from now. That is a hell of a long term plan. The company takes risks in a very traditional craft that doesnt like a lot of change. It may not always work out but it's great to see them pushing to save the forests and keep making great instruments.

    I capped the day with a ride along the border wall, Mexico must have paid for that one a long time ago. Then it was up into the mountains to test out those new tires. Much to my surprise it got pretty cold at 5000 ft. Wasn't ready for that in southern California, but the view was worth it. For some reason the sky was this unreal shade of blue. A cool contrast to the strange desert landscape.

    Off to Baja tomorrow, let the real adventure begin.

    RR
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  6. RangeRoad

    RangeRoad Been here awhile

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    Day 13 - Welcome to Mexico

    The border crossing at Tijuana was a breeze, nobody stops you or asks any questions. Before I knew it I was on the toll highway headed South, no insurance and no tourist card. Oops. At the Port in Ensenada I was able to get the tourist card and insurance sorted out. I will have to get the vehicle permit at the ferry in La Paz.

    It is a bit surreal how much things change as soon as you cross the wall. From one of the richest areas in the world with seaside mansions lining the ocean to the slums and shanty houses of Tijuana, separated by a line on a map and a couple miles of coastline.

    Riding into the Baha desert started to test my navigation skills. The road signs are few and far between so finding some of the attractions off the main Highway can be a bit of a gamble. After some guessing and backtracking I gave up on my first destination and started to look for where I was going to spend the night. The plan was to go to Mike's Sky Ranch, a bit of a hub for desert racers and adventure riders. It is about 30 kms off the main highway on what is considered a graded dirt road. After riding through fire (literally, there was a a road crew burning vegetation on the side of the road and the flames were blowing across the highway) I found the turn to Rancho Mike's. Not well labelled but I figured there couldn't be too many other places named Mike's.

    The dirt road was a mix of sand, gravel, potholes, washboard and rock. It wasn't too difficult but I was happy for my decision to switch to the new rubber.
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    About halfway some ornamented cacti caught my eye. I turned around for a picture. I thought it was some kind of glass art as I drove by but on closer inspection it is an ode to Tecate. I heard dogs barking as I snapped a couple quick photos. The barking was getting closer and they didn't sound happy. Three dogs came bounding around the corner in full sprint. I had left my helmet on so I calmly walked back to the bike, trying to ignore the mangy mutts racing up to me. Barking and snapping, I thought for sure I was about to get bit. I jumped on the bike and took off, slowly at first because of the sandy track. Just when I thought I was in the clear, I hear barking to my left and see two of the mutts racing along beside me. I hit the gas, shifted to second gear and left them in the dust.
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    I finally made it to Mike's, where a $70 room awaited. A bit more than I was expecting, but at least it included dinner and breakfast the next morning.

    I settled in and met a couple who was also staying the night. Raquel and Scott were touring the wine region in northern Baja. Unbelievably, Raquel is a fellow Edmontonian. What are the chances that I would meet someone from home on top of a mountain in Baja. We shared a great conversation, they shared their wine and I learned about what is actually a very good wine region. I drove right past all of the vineyards and never even realized they were there. That goes back to the complete lack of proper signage off the highways. After trying the wine, I have to say that Mexican wines can be really good and are very underrated at home. Raquel and Scott explained that the tax on wines in Mexico is a big reason why they aren't more popular.

    Mike's is a nice place to stay, I was happy for the bed and I didn't have to cook. Lola seemed to like her spot by the pool as well.

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  7. RangeRoad

    RangeRoad Been here awhile

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    Day 14 - Going to School

    It was not a good day. I started early, my goal was to loop down south on a different road that linked up to the observatory. It was marked on the map as a dirt road, not graded. I figured that if it's on the map it is probably ok so I set off on the 20 or so km's to get to the observatory road. The first couple km's were difficult, but manageable. Huge rocks, washed out sections and steep hills but I was moving along and I felt confident. Then the big hill to get over the mountain. It started as a rocky track but 3/4 of the way up turned into an enduro course. After dropping Lola 3 times in 10 minutes, twice in the same spot, I decided that tackling this road alone was not a good idea. So with my tail between my legs, defeated by Baja, I turned around and went back to mikes. Not going to see the observatory this time.
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    The drive back to the coast was pleasant. A mix of endless desert and stunning coastline views of the sea of Cortez. What really surprised me was the diversity of the desert. Sometimes nothing but small shrubs and other times fields of giant cacti covering the entire valley floor. And sometimes just plain weird shit.
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    I learned my second lesson of the day when I passed a gas station, declining to fill since I still had 3/4 tank. This inconsequential decision at the time led to a chain of events that ultimately ended with me wild camping in the desert. When I realized that the town I had planned to stay in didn't have gas (at least the map said it didn't have gas, never really know out here), I was forced to turn south instead of backtracking north. Unfortunately the towns were few and far between, and the options for camping were even worse. I must have missed a turn to the spot for camping marked on the map, then I took another short detour looking for it. With no luck and darkness approaching fast I pulled off the highway to find a secluded spot out of view of the road. I found a decent flat area, shrouded by a hill so passing cars wouldn't be able to see the bike or the tent. It was not ideal, but I didn't' want to ride in the dark so it would have to do for the night. At least I don't have to worry about bears in the desert right!

    I am really not good at wild camping in an area that I am unfamiliar with. Although there are so few people out there I'm sure I was relatively safe, the fear of the unknown was getting to me. This, coupled with the fear of running out of gas in the morning weighed heavy on my mind. Now I know better than to pass up a gas station in Baja!

    RR

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  8. RangeRoad

    RangeRoad Been here awhile

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    Day 15 - Back in the game

    I packed up with the sunrise and got an early start to the day. First stop was gas, made it with maybe a liter to spare. Next was to find breakfast, which on a Saturday morning in Mexico is harder than you might think. This day felt better already, fueled with breakfast and a plan to get to Loreto to stay a couple days in the hostel I made good time and was in San Ignacio by noon. This little oasis in the middle of the desert is a welcome sight after miles desert. The palm tree lined streets leading to the old spanish mission give the town a unique feel.
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    Back on the road, I soon descended back to the Sea of Cortez. The temperature jumped 10 degrees to the mid 30's as I approached the ocean and the valleys turned green due to some recent rains. Finally I was starting to understand why people come to Baja. Almost private beaches and shimmering blue and teal waters greeted me with every turn. But instead of palm trees and tropical foliage lining the coast, it's giant cacti. Strange but beautiful.
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    Loredo turned out to be a great choice, the Hostel here is owned and run by Abel. He grew up in LA but it was always his dream to return to Loredo and build the first hostel in town. Four years ago he made this a reality and I am very glad he did. his hostel is small and clean, just steps away from the Mission, the plaza and the Ocean. I met Louis and Hector, two old friends who stay here every year to go fishing. They promised me they are going to catch something tomorrow so that we can have fresh sashimi at the end of the day. I'm looking forward to it.

    RR

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  9. RangeRoad

    RangeRoad Been here awhile

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    Day 16 & 17

    Just going to give a quick update since the last two days were pretty uneventful. I spent a day in Lareto walking around and getting reorganized. Sat at the beach, learned about the missions on Baja and the Spanish colonization and watched some football.

    Today I hit the road again. First was a quick run to the San Javier mission. It is the largest on the peninsula and the road from Loreta is a good asphalt road with some gravel and a quite a few water crossings. The water crossings are shallow but the concrete underneath gets slimy and is really slippery. I wanted to loop west from San Javier but the road starts with a deep water crossing over some very slippery looking rocks. This is where travelling alone makes a big difference. With someone else there I would have gone for it. Visions of a bike drowned in the river, me slipping and splashing as I attempt to pick it up, flashed through my head. So I turned around. Bit of a baja theme so far.

    The rest of the day was spent looking at big cacti. 400 kms of them.

    I am now near Todos Santos and will probably spend a couple days in the area before heading to La Paz to catch the ferry. May even try some surfing tomorrow, that should be good for a laugh.

    RR[​IMG][​IMG]

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  10. danielc

    danielc n00b

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    Hi RangeRoad! Thank you for the great reports! Stay safe and enjoy your adventure. Daniel67 ADS
    #30
  11. RangeRoad

    RangeRoad Been here awhile

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    Thanks Daniel, great to hear from you! Glad you like the road reports. Enjoy the last few weeks of riding back home.
    #31
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  12. RangeRoad

    RangeRoad Been here awhile

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    Day 18 - Surf's up

    I met Moisis at the surf camp, a young entrepreneurial Mexican who runs a travel website that sells tours from Guadalajara. Their main tour is from Guadalajara to Tequila town to visit the tequila distilleries. He is traveling Baja and the west cost of Mexico for the next couple months looking for places that he could expand his business. He is a bright young guy that shared a lot of interesting stuff about Mexico. We compared wages, housing costs and just overall lifestyles. He convinced me to go surfing, he also wanted to learn so we got up early and rented a couple boards. The lessons are expensive and according to the camp owner not really worth the money. He pointed us in the right direction and we headed to the beach, a bit nervous and excited.

    After a full day getting tossed in the waves, drinking way to much salt water, I was able to catch 1 wave from the top and was pretty good at getting the whitewater and standing up. I was happy with the progress and with my arms being too tired to lift my body off the board I called it a day.

    Day 19 - A Sandy Christening

    I can really feel the intensity of the sun now and I may need to start my days a bit earlier to beat the heat. Although the air temp was around 30, any time spent in direct sun was cause for perspiration, something I was about to get very familiar with. I backed tracked to Todos Santos feeling excited and happy to be back on the bike. I walked around the town, starting with the claimed "Original" Hotel California. With The Eagles famous lyrics drifting through my brain I explored the historic district, known for it's small art galleries and quaint, small town shops. It was a pleasant walk, unfortunately most of the galleries are closed for the off season.
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    The last sight in town is the beach and Lagoon, where at the right time of year you can watch the turtles race for the ocean or watch grey whales surface in the bay. As I approached the beach, the road disappeared and turned to sand. After the traction control kicked in and got me stuck, I made a quick adjustment to the TC and plowed my way down to the beach. After a short walk in the blazing sun with no signs of turtles or whales I turned the bike around for the intimidating hill back to the road. I lightened the load a bit, electing to come back for the top box in the hope that I would have a better chance of making it up the hill. I took a run at it, the K60 scout spinning and throwing sand, begging for grip. I had the top of the hill withing my reach, but losing momentum fast. Then it happened, that dreaded moment where the front tire bites, stopping progress instantly and digging an 8 inch hole with the back tire. Crap. (not the actual word I used)
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    Now I was in for a workout. I unloaded the bike, laid it on it's side and pulled it over to get myself out of the hole. Attempt #2. The bike started to move forward, I had a chance! I pushed hard, let the clutch out... and dug another big hole. Time for a new plan. This time I spun the bike around and went back down the hill. I had spotted another road with a smaller hill off the beach. This time with a lighter bike, smaller hill and a bit more speed I was back on solid ground. There was a sign letting me know that vehicles on the beach could get me up to 9 years in prison because of the turtle nesting areas nearby. Nice of them to forget that sign on the other road. I didn't end up in a Mexican prison but I think the two hours of digging and sweating in the sun was karma. To be fair I only rode within the tracks of where other vehicles had been so I think the turtles are safe.
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    Then it was back on the highway to Cabo. I arrived early in the afternoon with plenty of time to explore the city. A quick stop for a late lunch. A fantastic spread of 4 tacos and some kind of soup for 40 pesos. As I ate I watched them hand press and fry the tortillas and shred the meat. This was real Mexico, well off the tourist strip. I walked to the marina area, with it's luxury stores, huge yachts, bars, nightclubs and hillside mansions it is a microcosm of excess at the very end of a peninsula that is otherwise rustic and relaxed. I had one beer at the Marina after a long and hot day. It cost the same 40 pesos as my lunch.

    After a couple hours of being asked to buy:

    Fishing tours 40+ times
    Cigars 20+ times
    Weed 8 times
    Cocaine 5 times
    Prostitutes 2 times

    I had enough of the tourist version of Cabo so I headed back to my hostel to relax, dip my feet in the pool and prep for tomorrow.
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  13. KC7

    KC7 Camping Machine

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    Jealous of your Taylor visit...what an awesome company that is. Just got through re-stringing my 17 year old K-10 acoustic, that sounds better than I deserve (Koa sides and back), right before reading your post. Enjoy the rest of your ride; I'll be watching for updates. Be safe.
    #33
  14. RangeRoad

    RangeRoad Been here awhile

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    Thanks. Happy to have you along. That's a beauty you have there. Koa is such a looker.

    I don't own a Taylor but it was an awesome tour and I really respect what they are doing for forest management and ethical business practices. If you are ever in the San Diego area make sure to check it out! Worth the price of admission (free!) Get there an hour before the tour and try out all their stuff while you wait, most of the tour group won't show up until 15 minutes before so you will have the place to yourself.

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  15. The Breeze

    The Breeze Been here awhile

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    I always spend a couple of days in Los Barilles (south of LaPaz). Great little town. Highly recommend it!!
    #35
  16. RangeRoad

    RangeRoad Been here awhile

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    Thank you. I'll have a look tomorrow on my way through.

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  17. True.North

    True.North Have bike wil travel

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    RangeRoad ....

    Looks like the trip is going very well. I am following from the relative comfort of Ardrossan. Remember to book the room on the Ferry to Maz.
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  18. RangeRoad

    RangeRoad Been here awhile

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    Day 20 - Lunch with an ass

    My route to La Paz was along the coast past the national marine park of Cabo Pulmo. On the map, as usual, it looked like a highway. Given that there are quite few vacation properties and the park along the route I figured it would be in good shape. Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice.... or three times, I guess that is on me. Recent heavy rains have washed out huge sections of the road and moved tons of sand from the hillsides onto the road. After 15 kms of gravel, rock and sand I decided to find some shade and sit down for lunch. To my surprise, a donkey came strolling around the corner, walking right towards me like he didn't even know I was there. I stood up from the shade so that he could see me, which sent him trotting off in the other direction. I guess he didn't want to join my picnic after all.
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    Shortly after lunch I met up with two danish women driving a jeep. They were headed the same direction so I decided it would be great if they could follow behind me, then if I dropped the bike at least I would have some help to pick it up! They agreed, as long as I took a couple photos of them in the Jeep. I made it to Cabo Pulmo without any major incidents, I think I'm getting more comfortable with the sand. Two hours in the heat meant it was time for a swim at Cabo Pulmo. I rented a set of fins and a mask to check out the reef. After 20 minutes of snorkeling I think I can safely say that it is not my sport. Although it's fun to try, I prefer two feet on solid ground.

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    Lola revealed two small problems today. The rough road caused the rear axle to move a little bit which made the chain very loose and the rear axle to out of alignment. A quick adjustment at the hostel fixed the problem. Easy fix. The second problem is a bit more elusive. The fuel guage is reading low. The floats seem to be sinking a little or something, even when right full it reads a bit low, but continues to drop as fuel is consumed. The reserve light came on after burning only 11 liters. It should come on after 15 or 16 liters. Anyone have any experience with a similar problem.

    Day 21 - OHV is for On highway vehicle?

    First stop was the ferry terminal to get my TVIP and ferry ticket. The lady at the Banjercito was very nice, but when she looked at my registration she said that I wouldn't be able to get the importation permit because I had an OHV (Off highway vehicle). Oh shit. Now I am thinking how the hell am I going to get new registration paperwork in Baja that doesn't have this stupid OHV on the vehicle type. Any registry will want to see the bike and may even want some kind of inspection. I think that it is a mistake that the type is OHV on the registration, the clerk at the registry made a mistake when I originally registered the bike, but I never really thought much about it. I doubt it will be a problem outside of Mexico but now it has me worried.

    Lucky for me everyone was in a good mood and they eventually decided to let it pass. Phew.

    Once the TVIP was issued, I got my ferry ticket and was all ready to go in about an hour. Very easy process. Rest of the day was spent wondering La Paz, learning about whales and the local marine species and then joining the hostel staff for a beach party. I had no idea what anyone was saying but it was a good time. Most of the locals just brought beer with them to the restaurant/bar. They would buy a few drinks to keep the staff happy but everyone had beer in their backpacks.
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    RR
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  19. SafetySteve

    SafetySteve adventurey

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    a wild donkey, a jeep, Danes, beach party and snorkeling? this is my favorite post yet.
    #39
  20. SquirrelyGrl

    SquirrelyGrl Squirrely Girl

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    nice RR! $100 tho for a site :becca
    #40