One more for the cheap seats....Scram-ster!

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Ginger Beard, Dec 4, 2012.

  1. Ginger Beard

    Ginger Beard I have no soul

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    Glad you are digging it. At least you can feel my pain as to why this project is slow going. :lol3 Down here the market is so saturated with bikes that a Sporty in good shape can be had under $3 k. I have a lot of mechanic friends scattered throughout the various bike shops in the region and many have the MC sickness. If you are going to catch a bug, the motorcycling one ain't a bad way to go. :D

    Here's a pic of a bike built by one of them...

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    I decided to scrap the wheel build that I have here and do an Excel rim on the HD hub. Going to save the old high shoulder hoop for a chopper project. I don't want to drill that pretty old thing in order to fit my bead lock. New front caliper will be here in about a week. The Hayes caliper is a bit too wide to clear properly even with shaving. Since I am running the exhaust behind the shock I need my rear wheel fitted in order to get proper measurements. I seem to be in a "waiting for shit to come in" limbo right now. I did score a nice gas tank only to have it destroyed in shipping. Hey USPS, right here guys!! :fyyff
    #61
  2. Ginger Beard

    Ginger Beard I have no soul

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    So I finally found some free time which allowed me to get out to the garage. It's sprung solo seat mountin' time !! :clap

    Picked up a Biltwell Solo with the tuck n' roll pattern. I really dig the vintage look and from what I gather from the chopper crowd, they are one of the more comfortable seats on the market.


    Time to test the height. I want the seat a bit high up in order to give a good seat to peg distance. I'm not too worried about touching the ground since I have a 32 inch inseam. Also the solo seats on early Sportsters were mounted high above the frame and I dig the look.


    This should work out just fine...

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    Not nearly as useful as a towel but it gets the job done...:D

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    One thing that I wanted was to have the seat be removable. I also don't want to cut or weld to the original frame of the bike so I wanted to use the stock saddle's mounting points.

    I started with an A frame that will tuck under the tongue on the frame just behind the gas tank.

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    Mmmm....Like a glove!! I set up my measurements so that the springs will ride on top of the frame rail. By the way , when I say "measurements" I am using that term quite loosely. I tend to measure just to get an idea of where to start and then I eyeball it from there. I treat bike building like an art rather than a science and kind of dig the little imperfections that come from doing it this way. If you are anal about perfect measurements and expect little stacked coin types of welds then NOW is the time to stop reading my build thread!!! :deal :rofl

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    My crossover plate that will hold the springs.

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    I bent up a piece of flat stock that matches the curve of the fender. It will allow me to use the original seat mounting hole in the fender.

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    In order to have the hinge clear that frame tongue I built a little arch that spans the front of the seat frame. I also cut down a couple of screws that I will weld to the plate at the rear of the seat frame in order to bolt down the springs.

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    The beginnings of my "high post" style seat hinge.
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    All welded up....Can you tell where I had the wire speed set WAAAAY too high? It looks like I welded the hinge only to have a pigeon shit on the weld directly after it's completion. :lol3

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    Now to get to the upper hinge that bolts to the underside of the seat pan.

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    Have I mentioned that I tend to overbuild things? Years of Freeriding on MTB's and riding dirt bikes has taught me that it usually sucks when things break....I try to make parts that won't break...
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    Bolt everything together for a test fit...And the Scramster has a seat!!! :clap

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    Time to disassemble and it's off to the professional paint booth... AKA a can of Rustoleum, some wire, my yard and the curing shelf in my garage. :D

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    I was also able to mount up my newly machined Harley disc to my XL wheel. The guys at the shop nailed it!!
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    Updates will be getting more and more frequent now that I have some parts and time ....

    Of course my time is being split between work, projects and my girl so please be patient with me.....






















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    I hope you all can forgive me for being "distracted" at times. :evil



    .
    #62
  3. sanjoh

    sanjoh Purveyor of Light

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    And some leg room! Your knees thank you:D
    #63
  4. Ginger Beard

    Ginger Beard I have no soul

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    :lol3 An HD with ground clearance AND leg room??!! :eek1 what will the neighbors think?!!
    #64
  5. CallMeBoog

    CallMeBoog hi functioning idiom

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    wow. :eek1
    #65
  6. Ginger Beard

    Ginger Beard I have no soul

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    Yeah, not quite sure how I pulled that one off! :lol3 and she loves bikes !!! :huh
    #66
  7. Dirt Road Cowboy

    Dirt Road Cowboy Sometimes I'm A Jerk

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    She looks like Jolene Blalock with red hair - Way Too Hot! :knary

    .
    #67
  8. Brian Keith

    Brian Keith Been here awhile

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    I'm subscribing!
    #68
  9. Ed_in_miami

    Ed_in_miami Cubicle Traveler

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    Suscribed!!!
    Take as long as you need, but post more pic of her! :lol3
    #69
  10. Ginger Beard

    Ginger Beard I have no soul

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    :lol3 Let me see what I can do about that...
    #70
  11. WYO George

    WYO George Been here awhile

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    I love where this build is going, gives me ideas for that sportster that's for sale down the street.....:freaky
    #71
  12. brooks

    brooks Been here awhile

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    There is a company that sells scrambler set up for Harleys, I can't remember the name off the top of my head though after seeing the beautiful pixie. :eek1
    p.s what is the tattoo on the arm covering up?
    #72
  13. brooks

    brooks Been here awhile

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  14. Randy

    Randy Long timer

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    I'll be following along with your thread and eagerly awaiting updates. Interested in seeing how you tackle the various changes in your scrambler conversion since I'm really interested in doing one myself.

    Seeing the painted parts above hanging to cure made me think of something I could maybe contribute.... Not sure how many parts you may want black (or any color for that matter), but just wanted to mention (in case you didn't see my post about it buried somewhere back in the Go Sportsters thread) the Harbor Freight powder coating machine I bought earlier this year. I can't remember exactly how much it cost me but I'm thinking that with a 20% off coupon I printed off their website that is was under 50 bucks. I've used it on several things on my Sporty so far and have been really impressed with how it's worked. It's easy to use, powder coat is generally more durable than rattle can paint, cures to full hardness in minutes instead of days, no worries about overspray settling on other things in the garage, no noxious fumes, and it's actually cheaper than decent paint in a can. One $10 jar of powder goes a pretty good ways, so if you do a few things the cost savings will actually more than pay for the machine itself. I've baked all of my parts in the kitchen oven and haven't noticed anything bad afterward either, even though I do open a window in the kitchen area with a box fan blowing out.

    My "coating booth" is just a large cardboard box that I set out on the driveway just outside the garage door. "Overspray" is just powder, so if it does land on other vehicles, or whatever, it's harmless. One side of my box is open and I just hang the parts inside with coat hangers and wire so I can rotate them to coat with powder. Then just move the parts by their hanging wires to hang in my preheated oven to cure. 20 minutes or so at 250* (I think! It may be higher, but whatever) and then leave them in the oven to slowly cool. Once cool they're ready to mount and use. The parts in your pic above, for example, could be coated, cured and ready to install in about an hour total probably.

    I highly recommend anyone that makes small brackets and such, or anyone that just wants to coat stock parts, to pick one up. I wish I had gotten one years ago, and know I'll never be without one now. I know I'll continue to find tons of uses for it. :thumb
    #74
  15. Ginger Beard

    Ginger Beard I have no soul

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    Glad to have you on board Randy! :freaky You know I had been checking out that rig from Harbor Freight but was pretty skeptical. Think I may pull the trigger after reading your post.
    #75
  16. theKite

    theKite Ulyssean

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    Love the "baking oven" procedure, Randy. I used a similar idea when assembling my helicopter blade grip assembly.
    Hint: Wait until your wife goes to work before proceeding.
    Rob
    #76
  17. Ginger Beard

    Ginger Beard I have no soul

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    :lol3
    #77
  18. Randy

    Randy Long timer

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    Oh yeah, FOR SURE!!

    I don't get it. I mean, an oven is MADE for baking things, isn't it? But, IDK... some women can be kinda funny about that sorta thing.... They're just weird like that I guess....

    Before powder coat I've used the kitchen oven for baking painted parts a bunch of times over the years. VHT brake caliper paint, for example, is pretty good for spray bomb stuff. It's resistant to brake fluid and other solvents but it has to be baked for like an hour at around 200* to achieve that result. Now that IS a different story! Even if you let the paint air cure and think it's done, it will still give off plenty of volatiles and STINK to high heaven when baked! If you ever try that, you better make sure she's gonna be gone for a good long while. First time I baked painted shit in the kitchen, I used the usual fan in window thing so the fumes didn't build up in the house too bad, and cleared pretty quickly after turning the oven off. BUT, the next time I cooked in the oven, the pizza came out tasting FUNNY!

    Umm... I don't know honey. It does taste a little weird this time, doesn't it? Wonder if maybe it's old, or maybe got thawed out in transit or something.... :dunno

    What did I learn from that?

    Funny how many hurdles we'll jump through for the booty, ain't it? :wink:

    Anyway, do your thang, then run the oven through its self cleaning cycle to "burn" away any lingering aftereffects. That's why I said to wait until she's gonna be gone a while.... my oven takes like 4 hrs or something to do the self clean thing... But, once I learned that little trick she was never the wiser... :evil

    Just tricks of the man trade, but hey! Gotta EARN that man card somehow, and sharing hard learned wisdom is part of paying our dues....

    Powder coat is much simpler.... No noticeable outgassing.... Just bake and the pizza tastes fine later...


    And Ginger, yeah I was skeptical too. I read some reviews on a few forums though and it was mostly favorable. I can't compare it to better, more expensive or professional equipment, or say how long it'll last, but for the money I spent I'm very satisfied so far. It works. Hell, if it crapped out tomorrow I'd have no problem stopping by and gettin' another one just like it.

    Here's a mounting bracket I built for my licks solo bag since I didn't like the way they mount and didn't want it rubbing on my paint...


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    In my highly specialized custom powder coating "spray booth" after being powder'd with HF matte black powder...

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    And after curing...


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    And with bag mounted...


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    Don't want to derail Ginger's thread, but if anyone is interested in more details about the Lick's Bag mount, I did a thread on it over on xlforum HERE earlier this year.



    I posted that last pic because you can also see the freshly powdered shock springs and longer sidestand (both from a Roadster) that used to be chrome.

    And to prep for the powder, I used this high tech as hell, sandblasting unit...


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    It started life as an el cheapo HF spot blaster ($13.99) LINKY. It comes with a little bag hopper originally and didn't work for shit! But, I stuck it back and kept it anyway. Then, when I started this project I took it out and tried it. Of course, it still didn't work for shit! Mainly because the hopper bag holds just enough so that once you start blasting it's empty.:huh But, when I had it out and had the bag off to fill with sand (lasted about 5 seconds on a refill) I thought about how a regular hopper fed blasting unit worked.... I took a bucket of sand, dug around in my junk bin and pulled out a length of vinyl tubing that fit the pickup tube, stuck the other end in the bottom of the bucket of sand and, VIOLA! Worked like a champ! :1drink Wouldn't want to use it for a big item but for small parts it worked pretty good to enable me to get a good anchor profile on the steel for good adhesion of the cured powder coating, and didn't cost much of anything.

    If you do decide to buy one (or anything more than a few bucks at HF), don't forget to google "Harbor Freight coupon" They almost always have a "20% OFF any one item" coupon available. I've never had a store give me any shit about 'em. Even when I went through the line more than once in a row to buy more than "any one item" with additional coupons. Saved a good bit when I picked up the HF bike lift too....


    http://www.harborfreight.com/high-position-motorcycle-lift-99887.html

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    It also works great and is on sale right now for $179 if anyone needs such a thing. And you can still get the extra 20% off that price with the coupon. At least I did when I got mine earlier this year. :D Oh! And mine came with an added bonus of a highly specialized custom powder coating "spray booth"!

    Weird though... They're very efficient in the way they packaged the lift inside the spray booth. Great bargain for a little over 150 bucks.

    Ok, sorry for the hijack! But maybe someone reading a build thread might get something out of the above since we tend to be tinkerers...

    Carry on! And get to work on this build you slacker. :wink:

    :1drink
    #78
  19. Randy

    Randy Long timer

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    Oh yeah, one more thing to add to the powder coating rig subject for those that may be interested in trying it...

    Read the instructions of course... well, yeah... I know that's a stupid thing to say since all real men always read the instructions.

    But other than that... don't expect the powder to go on like paint. The gun kinda just puts out a fog of powder and the electrical charge attracts this "fog" to the part. If you remember to connect the lead to the part that is... But, there is a lot of this "fog" that just passes by the part and settles to the bottom of the spray booth. The powder isn't expensive so I didn't worry about it, but if you're frugal and want to save powder, just put a piece of clean plastic on the bottom of the booth before you spray so you can collect the uncontaminated, unused powder.

    And yet another tip... Like paint, you can do multiple coats of powder to build up a thicker and more abrasion resistant coating. Just do it once all the way through to baking and cooling. Then do it again. The baking will soften the first coat and allow the subsequent coats to fuse so that in the end you have one thick coat. Much like how you want to recoat paint before the preceding coat has cured so that they'll merge into one. But, unlike paint, you do want to cure the first coat first since it's the heat of baking and not solvents that will allow the bonding of the different coats.

    Powder is also easier, in my experience, to build up pretty thick without worrying about runs, drips, or sags.

    OH! And, DO NOT touch the wand tip while the unit is on, or until you have discharged it after using and turning it OFF. Ask me how I know this... :eek1
    #79
  20. Ginger Beard

    Ginger Beard I have no soul

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    Randy, thanks for posting that up. I dig that you are contributing to the thread and welcome participation from others as well. This build is a learning experience for me since it is my first "real" mc build. If others can learn tips, tricks, etc from the info in it so much the better. :freaky
    #80