Ottawa-Inuvik-Tierra Del Fuego

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Super Tenere, Jun 26, 2013.

  1. Super Tenere

    Super Tenere Voyager

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    340
    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    Made the crossing into Peru today and staying at the Hospedaja 12.49 in La Cruz for $20. The new border crossing at Huaguilles is very easy and did take an 1 hour to do. First about 8km before the border you will first come across the Aduana on the left and have them stamp out your bike Import paper, then ride across the border and there is a new complex that has both Ecuador and Peru Micration in the same office. The office is in the middle of the complex, so park there and you can walk back to Aduana and have them fill in your new Peru Import paper, they don't need to see the bike, but they will ask to see your Ecuador paper, no copy's were needed and no fees was asked.


    The landscape changed dramatically from Ecuador to Peru and so did the roads and you can see that Peru's economy is suffering against that of Ecuador's, with gas price at $5.25 a gallon as to compared to the $2.00 a gallon in Ecuador it's no wonder. Sorry no pictures today there is not much to see.


    Was planning the Chachapoyas - Tarapoto to Tingo Maria route but have been advised not to because of some unrest in that area, so will head down the coast to Trujillo and do the Huaraz to Lima route instead.


    Jeff
  2. Super Tenere

    Super Tenere Voyager

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    340
    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    The view this morning along the Peru coast.
    [​IMG]

    Had breakfast in Mancora today and that is one hippie surfer town, I should have stayed there last night. Then drove through the hot desert, then oases, then cold desert, man this changes like a flick of a finger, and like I said not much to see.
    [​IMG]


    Had very strong side/front winds the hole way to Guadalupe where I'm staying at Hotel El Bosque for $18.


    Will make my way up into the mountains towards Huaraz and see how that is.


    Jeff
  3. Super Tenere

    Super Tenere Voyager

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    340
    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    Sorry for the long post but have been without internet for some days.


    Day 128


    Headed to Trujillo for breakfast and found this huge shopping Mall, so tried to find a Camera for around the 50 bucks or so, Radio Shack had one on the rack but not in stock, plenty over a 100 and more but that's not what I want to spend at this moment, so the phone will have to do for now.


    From Trujillo you take Hwy 10 into the mountains and this road turns very fast into a twisty hairpin and switchback road as you go up to 8.500ft, they are working on this road but is 90% done and they will let motorcycles pass. The N3 turnoff to Santiago de Chuco is at a uphill split and this road is mostly hard packed dirt and gravel. The elevation will continue to rise to above the 13.600ft, and the views will become more amazing as if they were not already.
    [​IMG]


    Stayed in Santiago de Chuco at the El Mirado Hostel for $12, and you will have to walk into town for dinner. This town does not have a single level street and is very much like you have stepped back into time, all the shops are in the old buildings and nothing has changed since the day it was built, all of this makes for a very interesting place to go see. This is such a difference than the sand swept roads along the coast lined with garbage and plastic bags as you approach another town, and is more like the Peru I want to see and experience.


    Day 129


    Had breakfast and left town, once on the other side leaving I soon fond out that the 2 lane road is now a three track, just watch out for the crazy buses coming around the corners because they will take the whole road , go slow and steady in the corners and no problem. By afternoon the road is a one lane and at some parts a real challenge, I did run into a detour that took me 3 hrs to get back too the other end of it, the scenery was amazing though so I won't complain.
    Your uphill climb.
    [​IMG]


    Your downhill on gravel as seen from the uphill side.
    [​IMG]


    Day130


    Stayed in Caraz at the JB Hostel for $8 and continued my trek on the N3 hoping I would make Huaraz
    before nightfall, instead I must have made a wrong turn and came down the most insane paved downhill road ever, it will take you down over 8.000ft and an hour to do.
    Google capture of it.
    [​IMG]


    And as seen before going down the first section.
    [​IMG]


    Once at the bottom you will travel through this beautiful canyon, but be warned there are 3 bridges to cross that only have two tracks on each side of the bridge and are made up out of 3 pieces of 3x6 inch lumber that are wired together at most spots, also choose your track wisely because one side may have some plank’s missing, this is not for the faint of hart because if you look down or miss a plank you will be royally screwed.
    Lost ghost village in canyon.
    [​IMG]


    The Canyon.
    [​IMG]


    This road did take me back to the Panamericana Norte and 450km from Lima, so pedal to the metal and in 4 hrs I made Lima, staying in the Miraflores district at the Flying Dog Hostel for $12 and includes breakfast. To bad I did not make Huaraz because it is surrounded by the highest mountains of Peru, but I still have Bolivia to do so that should be equally interesting


    Will stay in Lima for some R&R and take in the sights.


    Jeff
  4. NomadicOne

    NomadicOne Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    30
    Location:
    Toronto & The World
    Hey Jeff, I just arrived in Lima today too. I dropped by Flying Dog Hostel this evening but you weren't there. Can we meet up tomorrow evening maybe for a drink and I can grab the headset off your helmet?
  5. ReadyFreddy

    ReadyFreddy Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2013
    Oddometer:
    16
    Hey Jeff...
    Man what a trip. Those switchbacks look scary but you're a great rider, so no worries there. How do you find the people of Peru?
    Take care Jeff...Always thinking of you.:clap
  6. brian2tall

    brian2tall Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Oddometer:
    17
    Location:
    ottawa ont ca
    Hello Jeff, I was beginning to get worried when you hadn't posted in a few days. I know internet will be harder to find in the mountains, but after seeing those pictures of the switch backs, wholly crap !! :eek1 Please take care, we need you to come back and retell all your adventures:clap This is truly an EPIC adventure. Are you planning to go to Machu Pichu?
  7. Super Tenere

    Super Tenere Voyager

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    340
    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    Thanks Anthony, thinking of you I think that crazy dog of yours will feel at home here :wink:. All throughout central and south America the people have been wonderful and have helped me a lot when I try to get something across with my absolute terrible Spanish.

    Jeff
  8. Super Tenere

    Super Tenere Voyager

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    340
    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    Thanks Buddy, internet is none existing in most of the hostels out of the big city's and make for some catching up for sure. Some of these roads are absolutely amazing and have challenged me to the max, but I would not want to have it any other way. Machu Pichu is on my list now after hearing so many stories from other riders that all say you have to see it.

    Jeff
  9. Super Tenere

    Super Tenere Voyager

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    340
    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    Made it to Cusco with internet and will have to catch up on the post. Here are the first two days.


    Day 131


    Had a great rest day in Lima, did sit in the towns square for a while just watching the world go bye and just soaking it all in, the Sun, the People, the liveliness and enjoying a great cup of coffee, here is where all the people still hang out on most days and especially on a Sunday. Local artist show there wares, and it's feels so very European or I guess now South American, it also reminded me of way back in the days when I was a kid in Holland and hanging out with Opa and Oma; thank you so much for this feeling and the memories.
    [​IMG]


    They have a Coliseum in the park where music is playing and it's filled with people dancing, just beautiful to watch.
    [​IMG]


    Also did hangout with David and some of his friends, he is a rider from Ecuador and is making his way back from his trip from Argentina. He had some good riding suggestions and I will have to see if I can incorporate some of them.


    Day 132


    Today is Remembrance Day in Canada and USA and I did give thanks for all those that have fought and to those that are still fighting for our freedom. You will not be forgotten.


    Did meet with Wei this morning, he made it to Lima yesterday and will spend a few days here and get a new front tire, then head to Cusco, and most likely I will run into him again down the road.


    I made my way a bit late towards Cusco today, and will be taking Hwy 20 and then the 3S, this is a more scenic ride then the coast, but will take longer.
    The first pass on Hwy 20 and the view at 4818 meters (16.000 ft) is amazing, cold but amazing.
    [​IMG]


    The rest should be a very interesting ride and will take a few days before I reach Cusco.


    Jeff
  10. grahamspc

    grahamspc Smitty

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2009
    Oddometer:
    245
    Location:
    S.E. PA
    Wow...trying to catch up on your posts...epic journey.
  11. Super Tenere

    Super Tenere Voyager

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    340
    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    Thanks grahamspc, happy to have you along and glad you like it.

    Jeff
  12. Super Tenere

    Super Tenere Voyager

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    340
    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    Day 133


    With the clime yesterday the temps dropping down to 6c and an hour later the rain started not bad at first but after another hour it was getting heavy and did feel like ice water was hitting you, brrrrr.
    I decided to stop at the first town with a Hostel sign and there that night I had 3 woollen blankets over me and was just able to keep warm.
    Did not make it very far yesterday so this morning at dawn I put a couple extra layers on and headed out at 7 am.
    This portion of highway 3S is mostly riding through a canyon and is great, it does have a few sections where there is construction and will take you over some gravel.
    [​IMG]


    Did ride into the night and found lodging in a little town about 2 hrs past Ayacucho, not really a hostel or anything just a room above the restaurant that I stopped at and the owner was willing to provide for me at $3.
    Some more scenery.
    [​IMG]




    Day 134


    Another early start because I still had another 400 km to do and on these roads that is pushing it. The road and scenery is amazing and well worth the effort.
    [​IMG]


    After a while I did get on some new pavement that was great and then there was a 150 km detour on donkey roads that was really stunning but meant I needed to push harder if I wanted to make Cusco today, coming around a corner I side swiped a rock and it hit the right side of the motor cutting my oil sensor wire, luckily it was only the wire and a cooling fin that broke and nothing ells.
    Did make Cusco and will rest a few days and see if I can fix the wire, also will book a tour to see Machu Picchu instead of trying to ride the route David had given me because my ass needs some rest.


    More later Jeff
  13. #1Fan

    #1Fan Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2008
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    789
    Location:
    Lakewood, CO , USA
    16,000 ft??? :eek1:eek1:eek1 :clap:clap:clap
  14. Super Tenere

    Super Tenere Voyager

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    340
    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    Thanks #1Fan, for staying with the ride.

    Jeff
  15. Super Tenere

    Super Tenere Voyager

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    Have a private room at the La Posade del Viajero for $15, with inside parking for the bike and is in the middle of town where all the action is. There are lots of things to go see around here and I finally fond a new camera, just hope that this one last longer than the last one, also made a booking for a two day all inclusive excursion to Machu Picchu and will see if it will be worth the $220 I paid, there are cheaper trips from $100 but that will take an extra 12 to maybe 20 hrs in a mini bus plus lots of walking, just don't need all that extra riding.
    Was grate to see the sites and rest in Cusco today, was also able to fix the wire that broke yesterday, just hate seeing the oil warning going on all the time.
    Cusco's town square.
    [​IMG]


    The view by night.
    [​IMG]


    Will leave tomorrow for the excursion and will report about the trip when I get back.


    Jeff
  16. tvbh40a

    tvbh40a PSUViking

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Idaho home of the fiesta bowl champ BSU bronco's
    I really appreciate the write up. like your running day count also. Lets see a few pics of the Tenere, really wanna see how the bike is holding up to your adventurous riding style? :loll

    How are your injuries healing up? Stay sharp and stay from the edges.
  17. Super Tenere

    Super Tenere Voyager

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    340
    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    Thanks tvbh40a, will do. The injuries have healed for the most part, and only if I strain them do I feel it.

    Jeff
  18. Super Tenere

    Super Tenere Voyager

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    340
    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    Day 136


    Was picked up at the Hostel by Minivan and made the 1.5 hr ride to Ollantytambo where the train takes you to Machu Picchu Pueblo.
    [​IMG]


    Day137


    Did getup at 4:30 am to make the first bus up to Machu Picchu and I was there at 5:45 am and just in time for the entrance gates to open, my first shot of the sunrise.
    [​IMG]


    Huayna Picchu.
    [​IMG]


    The Valley view
    [​IMG]


    Me at Machu Picchu.
    [​IMG]


    And of course the famous Machu Picchu.
    [​IMG]


    Had a 2 hr tour and then hiked to the Inca bridge, walked a bit more around and decided to walk the Inca trail back to the Pueblo, I wanted to experience this also, there are some 1772 steps and it's a 2.000 ft descend to the bottom. My feet and legs were hurting after getting down but after setting for a while that seems to be good for now. Machu Picchu is a magical place to visit and experience, it's remoteness and the Inca history make this something I won't forget and worth every penny.


    Machu Picchu Peablo statue.
    [​IMG]


    I will be heading to Puno, so more later.


    Jeff
  19. hondad

    hondad Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2008
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    10
    Location:
    Alberta, Canada
    What an amazing, epic journey you`re having! I have been following you from the start and have enjoyed every second. Thanks for sharing your travels with us.
  20. brian2tall

    brian2tall Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Oddometer:
    17
    Location:
    ottawa ont ca
    Glad to see you relaxed & enjoying yourself. [​IMG] The thought of 12 to 20 hours on a bus would not have been quite the same.[​IMG] Amazing pictures ,
    I'm sure it was well worth the money. Thanks for sharing and keep up the terrific report.
    rubber down, eyes up.