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Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by larryboy, Sep 18, 2011.
Will we see this bike in another Death Valley ride report
That RF shielded stuff, Jim? I can get some of that. Probably easier to just change the end, I can do weatherpak too.
Yes, this bike is going to DV in six weeks for a shakedown, then I'll come home and get ready for the longer two up trip to DV.
Edit: Crizzap, thought I had a rotor and pads on the way from Beemer Boneyard, checked to see where it was and it seems I missed 5 steps out of their 35 step purchase system. Glad I looked...on the way now.
Got some weld in bungs for the petcocks and the carb flanges today. Flanges are wrong, exactly the same size as the BMW ones...that earlier part number will get you replacement flanges for your BMW 1150 with EFI if you need them.
This is why I say I don't have time to being doing stuff twice, now I need to do hours of research looking for the right flanges...dangit.
Making good progress with the frame, pictures later.
Yabbut you got to go to the dealer and see shiny new bikes and Italian scooters.
The dealer was alright...not sure what they're thinking with the pricing. :eek1
The loaded Super Tenere was at Cycle Gear...waay cool, that is the future.
Ok todays progress...I'm having to estimate where the carbs will end up, which made me push this lower tube in further than I really wanted. I'll have to pull the whole frame for finish welding now as I can't get position on the back of this tube.
Just gonna post the pictures for now. I'll answer questions if they come up.
One more tube to put in on the left side, then I can plan the battery and coil mounting. Thinking about just welding panels in for the airbox, was really hoping to have the right flanges for full mockup, I'll just call Sudco on Monday...time is short.
The more I look at it...I think I need to add one of these on each side, there is room under the seat since I shimmed the front about 1/2" higher.
it might be more important to have a tube go to the bottom of the headstock to prevent it from twisting when cornering/braking.
It's tied in at four places on the front, nothing else I can do there, besides...there aren't twisting forces there. I've done much more than any other conversion I've seen, it's safe.
Pretty much the only thing I could do to add any strength is do make sheetmetal panels to fill the spaces between the tubing and dimple die them.
Sorry fella but what does dimple die mean?
It takes speed holes and makes them strong, very common in roll cages and race cars/trucks.
Here's how they do it:
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/oNS5xQnDoJo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Ok, things are really coming together now!!
Igintion box from Germany has arrived. Much thanks to Poolside and Volker for figuring out what I need!!
Battery from herrhelmet here on the board arrived too, hard to believe that little thing has 410 CCA's. :eek1
Much thanks goes to Chad at Sudco for helping me pick out the right carb flange for my application. Unfortunate that they are out of stock, forced me to order from an ebay'er...time crunch, it won't break Sudco...hate to "use" them for the part number and expertise, but whaddya gonna do?
, just noticed my silly concert bracelet in the picture. I am completely destroyed from a night of pushing and shoving, gawd, what fun!!
The timing box came with Kurven diagrams, 9 different settings. I had to look up "frühzündung", timing advance curve I think. I would probably benefit from some dyno tuning to see what curve is best?
Is this what you had in mind?
There is already a mid tube that serves the same function as what you drew in.
Here is what others have done, probably safe, but I've gone well beyond this example as I know myself and how I ride. I've more than doubled the strength of what you see here:
That's cool, i was just trying to make sure i interpreted the suggestion correctly. It was a bit for you and also a bit for me to try and help my understanding of these things a little better.
Looks good Larryboy. Yours looks roughly analogous to the HP2 trelllis. Keep up the pace, I'm following along to make one of my own soon based on an wrecked R1100RT. - Bob
Thanks for the ideas, guys.
It all helps!! My main goal is safety and a margin of that.
Talking out loud, I think all the major stuff is inbound or here already. I haven't finalized the oil cool mounting yet and it looks like it will have to go on the forks below the headlights, so I might have to come up with a couple swivel fittings from Aeroquip to make that work right.
Off topic, I'm a former HP 2 owner. It always bugged me that BMW had the sub-frame welded to the main frame. That bike was supposed to be a 'race bike' . They love to brag about their engineering. Then they pull a stunt like that, just to sell frames.
Cheaper to buy your own welder for repairs.