Oz / Kiwi Suzuki DR650 Adv Riders Sign in Here please

Discussion in 'Australia' started by davorallyfan, Feb 20, 2007.

  1. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    3,729
    Check the float needle's tip with and without magnification for a witness line where it has been contacting the seat. If one is found, the float valve either leaks or will begin leaking soon. Make sure the needle seat o-ring fits snugly and is not cracked/hardened/deformed/shrunken/otherwise damaged. Also make sure that the float itself doesn't leak, i.e. that there's no fuel inside the two chambers. You can either hold it up to a light, in which case it should be evident if there's fuel inside, or you can put it in a container of liquid and see if one side sinks more than the other.

    How many miles/km are there on the carb?

    Regards,

    Derek
  2. backtodirt

    backtodirt Been here awhile

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    Lilyfield, sydney, australia
    Thanks Derek, there is 17000k's on the carb but did put a 146 needle in about 6000k's ago, it all looked fine then but was a while ago so will pull it down and do what you suggested. since turning off the tap the smell of fuel has now gone.
    I am off on a 3 day ride tomorrow so this should test it out and then will pull it down next weekend.
    Cheers!
  3. slapper

    slapper Been here awhile

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    Nov 17, 2009
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    140
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    Adelaide
    "cylinder" ... "piston" ...
    I knew I was trying to say something useful :lol3
  4. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    That means only the float system has a problem, rather than the float system and the fuel tap.
    I would not ride the bike at all until the issue is resolved.

    Regards,

    Derek
  5. slapper

    slapper Been here awhile

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    yup - if that float valve is leaking .. then it's most likely doing it whilst the bike is running as well as when it's sitting still. If it's leaking faster than the engine's using fuel (eg. at idle or v low revs) then simply switching the tap off when not running is not stopping the fuel from leaking into the oil.

    Fuel in the oil is bad for all sorts of reasons (reduced lubrication, cooling etc even a low risk of an explosion is present) ... fuel leaking back through your air filter is also bad for all sorts of reasons (which might happen if you stop on an incline etc) ...

    Plus .. it might get worse and you could finish up stranded :(

    The risk of something bad happening is probably low if you turn the tap off every time the bike's not running. Any leaks whilst the engine's running will probably just get burned off as it dribbles into the cylinder .. in my opinion, it's not worth the risk though.

    Still it's probably too late to mention all this as you've probably already gone!

    cheers (hope it went okay),
    Slap
  6. backtodirt

    backtodirt Been here awhile

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    haha, nah I took heed of issues and decided to postpone it, carby is apart, and am doing research as we speak to work out what to replace if needed, thanks for the help, I will yell if I run into any difficulty. Thanks again!
  7. Sleepy John

    Sleepy John Grumpy Adventurer

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    Back to basics. Though prob too late by now.

    Is it the original tank with vacuum operated fuel tap or after market tank & taps?

    How long had the bike been standing when you changed the oil?

    Could you replicate the problem?
  8. fatgut

    fatgut Been here awhile

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    Apr 8, 2010
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    759
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    Perth WA
    I am currently changing the rear wheel to 18inch, just wondering what width tires anyone has been running with the 18 inch rear wheels . I was looking at a 18\130- EO9, I have been running a 17\130- E09 and it was good tire.
    Thanks
    Kev.
  9. KIZ

    KIZ Marty

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    670
    Location:
    Gawler South Australia
    I've been running 130/18 E09 and E07,s OK. I dont think a 140 would fit but might just get in. Marty.
  10. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Snowy Mountains Oz
    Depends on the rim width. Typical enduro 18s are 2.15. I think the stock 17 is 2.5, and the 18 I fitted is also 2.5". You can squeeze a 140 onto a 2.5 but it wraps the tread and sidewall around and there is no advantage, and it wobbles about. 120-130 is fine, but for a more definitive tyre specific answer, ask the tyre manufacturer or local agent.
  11. fatgut

    fatgut Been here awhile

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    Hi BergDonk.
    The rear rim is a 2.15 to suit the Tubliss system ,looking at manufacture information a tyre width 110/120 is norm some say to 130 max.
    Kev.
  12. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    As ever, the relationship between quoted tyre sizes and actual measurements are not always easy to follow. Some 130s might be OK, but normally I'd say a 120 is max for a 2.15 rim. Mind you, I've seen some huge 120s over the years too. Your retailer might have a clue, or might not. The importers are always up for a chat in my experience and normally know their product fairly well, so if in doubt, ask them.

    This thread happening on DRR right now might be of interest too:
    http://drriders.com/post83533.html#p83533
  13. slapper

    slapper Been here awhile

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    well .. I think I've finally worked out what's causing it.

    When I put the factory rear sprocket back on, I could still feel the vibrations, but they weren't bad enough that I would have noticed it if I wasn't looking for it (in stark contrast to the 44 which really felt like something was wrong). As usually happens when things get slowly worse, I didn't notice it happening but, Friday on the way home I thought "that vibration's actually pretty bad, I might as well put the 44 back on". Which I did yesterday.

    When I went to remove the sprocket, I discovered that 3 of the bolts holding it to the carrier were loose enough to turn by hand. Now that I've stuck the 44 back on with freshly tightened bolts, it feels "not bad" (the vibes are there, but I'm pretty sure I'm just noticing them because I'm being extra sensitive) - so I reckon that's it. Nothing to do with 525+520 mix, the sprocket bolts are just coming loose over time.

    Thread lock next weekend I reckon :)

    cheers all.
  14. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

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    Blue locktite:deal
  15. TRTN

    TRTN Adventurer

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    Jul 11, 2010
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    Melbourne
    Think the factory applied threadlocker is a red compound. Needs heat and a fair bit of force to remove.

    Loctite 263 would be similar. I reckon 243 (blue) would be good enough. Not a qualified mechanic though.
  16. Lupine128

    Lupine128 That's MR Band Aid!

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    1,067
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    Quick question before I suck a screw into my engine and lunch it.
    Left work and the neutral light worked properly.
    Pull up in traffic 25k later and its flickering.
    Pull up 5 k later and it's gone.
    I'm at a shopping center so I've checked the bulbs and they are fine.
    Chances it's the NSU and I'm about to suck a small 5c piece of metal into my motor and destroy it?
    Do I ride 5 k home?
    Help?
  17. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    I wouldn't :cry
  18. grrant1058

    grrant1058 Motorcyclist 24/7

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    Sep 18, 2009
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    452
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    Brisbane, Australia
    Dear Mr Lupine,

    Unfortunately it sounds like it is knackered. PM me ASAP and I will whip around in the ute, pick you and the poor old DR up, drop you safely home and sling you a $1,000 for what's left of the broken down old beast! :evil
  19. Boo82

    Boo82 Been here awhile

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    The muppet rode it home, it didn't die, but he nearly did when I found out what he had risked. And now he expects me to let him ride my bike instead :nono. At least he has a sense of humour still. He can ride the DT.......:rofl

    He mummbled something about the light coming back on and it is probably a wire or something and is going to open it up and look at it.:patch
  20. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Check this plug, it's by the upper shock bolt, just behind the tank.

    [​IMG]