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Discussion in 'Australia' started by davorallyfan, Feb 20, 2007.
Rim locks front and rear. Will they be OK to not balance?
Weigh the rim locks and add the same amount of lead opposite.
I have previously worked at a Honda dealership.
We hardly ever balanced dirt bike wheels, unless specifically asked. Its quite hard once you have rim locks fitted and the results usually aren't noticeable.
Slower road bikes like cb 250s we usually wouldn't balance either.
It's generally only when you're doing over 120kph that you feel the vibration from non balanced wheels.
I've personally had non balanced wheels at well over that speed continuously and would not consider it unsafe.
If you're worried that vibration might promote wear on your bearing, I think you'll find the abuse that wheels cop during off road riding is more severe.
As a scientific experiment it might wear a little quicker, but at around $13 a bearing, and how often they get replaced over youre riding life, I would say, "dont worry about it, you'll be fine"
Hope this helps
Thanks for the replys guys. Was thinking along the line of not balancing in the bush but getting something to balance them at home.
Anyone know a good Balancer I can buy?
100kph on the road with an unbalanced rim lock and you'll wish you'd balanced it.
The vibes through the bars can be horrendous.
You can use a broom handle clamped in a vice.
I've machined up a couple of shafts with the right sizres for the front and rear wheels on one end. The other end gets clamped in the vice. Allthough it's ideal for the shaft to be the right size, it wont matter if it's smaller as the weight of the wheel and tyre will make it spin on the bearing. I did several balances with a bit of 16 mm diameter shaft.
Here you go...
TORPEDO7 Motorcycle Wheel Balancer | Buy Tools Online | Shop @ Torpedo7
Before I bought one of these, I used car axle stands and a bit of round steel.
Definitely balance with rim locks or do away with them. As Nordie says it'll drive you bonkers before long and it'll put a toll on your shockie and linkage bearings
Free advice wanted
I am just in the process of changing over the springs in my new 2013 DR650 I have read all the different opinions and went with 575mls with 140 air gap fully compressed ..
The problem is I can only get about 490mls to come out of each fork I have turned them upside down and pumped the sh$t out of them but they seem to have nothing more to give .
So if I put the 575mls back in I end up with a 90ml air gap which isn't going to work to well ..
Anybody got any ideas as to why it isn't going to plan ..:eek1
Forget about the volume you put in. Just make sure you pump them up and down with the fresh oil to get out any air and then set the level to about 140 mm to start with.
If your real fussy, pull the forks after you've done a few hundred klm's and check the level, adjusting if required.
Thanks for the advice i will drop the level down to 140 and put them back together tomorrow and go play in the dirt Saturday
Yep. The level is in mm, not ml.
Thanks for the help gents another job ticked of the list .
I have just used the axle off the bike, rest one end of axle on the bench holding the other . Heavy point will spin on the bearing to the bottom till enough weight stuck opposite. Had to get stick on weights from a car tyre joint.
How many kilometers do you reckon the standard 525 chain will do if treated nicely ? Mine has done 13000 kms ,not much sand riding, and does not require frequent adjustment and still looks good.
I changed mine at 20K with a reasonable amount of dirt and mud riding.
I'd say you have plenty left to go...
Done 9800 on mine I prob could have left it ,the rear sprocket almost as new ..
Trip coming up in August so just to be sure to be sure put a new chain front and rear sprocket .
Every end of ride daily even when I go away quick wipe and a little lube will goes a long way .
I changed my chain and sprockets at 24000km.
The sprockets still had more in them but the O rings were stuffed in quite a few links and these links were dry and starting to bind with red rust starting to come out.
My sons DR still has the original at 25000km and will probably go a couple more with just local commuting.
I replaced the sprockets with JT and the back one is already showing significant wear at 7000km so I doubt I will get as much out of it.
The replacement chain is DID 525VX which is near identical to the original.
I think next time I will buy a Suzuki rear sprocket as they are not much different in price.
The miles on my bike have been mostly touring on and off road at about 75% on tar and 25% dirt.
During the first 20000km I only adjusted the chain two notches on the snail cams and always run it on the loose side.
The replacement chain has been adjusted one notch at about 5500km.
cool ! sounds like I`ll be right for a while . thanks.
Since we're talking about chain replacement, I'm coming up to 25,000km on mine and as others have mentioned, peace of mind if more than commuting is going to occur, let alone trips for several days.
So what chain? I'm looking at the one on Vince Strang's site http://www.vincestrangmotorcycles.com.au/rk_chain.html but the price is certainly up there. Overkill?
Anyway, new chain, sprockets front and back of course and will change my ratio slight. Plus I'll do the front and rear wheel/hub bearings whilst i'm at it. A bit of a major service I suppose.
Chime in about chain recommendations.
I get good life out of 520 RK EXW and DID VM. Torpedo 7 routinely has good deals on the DID VM. I get 20,000 + kms per chain.
I use Chaingang rear sprockets, that last 2 chains and JT cs sprockets that I swap about every 5000 kms.
Works for me.