Oz / Kiwi Suzuki DR650 Adv Riders Sign in Here please

Discussion in 'Australia' started by davorallyfan, Feb 20, 2007.

  1. wisejangrae

    wisejangrae Been here awhile

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    If it's a Gell Battery and a Small Car Charger you may have trouble
    good advice jump start from car / bike etc and then ride

    cheers
    G
  2. Andy_P

    Andy_P Been here awhile

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    AGM batteries are really fussy about the way they are charged. Personally, I would never use one in a motorcycle. They may be better these days, but they dont like ripple, which is the essence of most motorcycle chargeing mechanisims, especially older ones.

    Problem with a lot of bikes, is use cant use a wet cell battery cause they mount the batteries in wierd ways.

    As for car chargers, if its the old arlec style 4A transformer type, then bin it. No good for charging small batteries. Find a charger suited to AGM's and GEL batteries.
  3. Big Willy

    Big Willy two dementional

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    Jump starting really is the best option. If the battery doesn't hold a charge after the bike's been running for a while, then it really is stuffed.

    Jumping from a fully charged larger battery seems to give the dead battery that kick in the guts that gets them going again.

    All a bit technical, I know :D
  4. Andy_P

    Andy_P Been here awhile

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    Just a word of warning. A car battery can supply a lot of current. If the battery on the bike is truly dead, it can end up in smoke! Jumping starting is fine, just keep your eye on it at all times!
  5. greendude

    greendude Long timer

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    I got these I keep on my strom

    [​IMG]
  6. Lupine128

    Lupine128 That's MR Band Aid!

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    Thought I might just drop in a small bit of info on jump starting a bike.
    It's fine to jump a bike off a car, even modern efi/ecm jobbies, but you need to do it the right way. I know everyone knows this already, but it's probably handy to post it up again.
    First things first.
    Never have the car running. Not ever.
    Car charging systems are a LOT stronger than a bikes and you run a good chance of cooking something. Leave the car off.
    Speaking of off, make sure the bike is switched off. When you are sure, then connect the positive terminals using good quality jump cables. Positive is red/+. Once you are sure of a solid connection on your +, then hook up the black/- side.
    The negative or black cable is a little different to set up. Find a good chassis earth point on the bike. Swing arm pivot bolts, peg mounts, someplace like that. You want a really good solid earth point because you hook the negative lead to that, not the battery.
    Wait 5 to 10 seconds then hit the starter.
    Always be ready to yank the negative cable if needed. It's usually best to have two when you jump a bike, one to do the actual starting and one just to watch the leads/battery.
    Doing it like this places less stress on the battery, and reduces the risk of a spark doing nasty things to your electrics. In the worst case it prevents igniting vented gas and going boom.
    This is the technique I was shown and it's how we do all our jumps (about 10 a day).
    Hope this helps.
  7. nazza

    nazza Trouble

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    Well.. yep I knew the risks and I kept an eye out for overheating but in the end it was my only option, considering.. ahem difficulties, and my appointment for the next morning.
    It worked, and I made it to get the tyres done.. they charged me the same as if I took the wheels off.. despite being told not to go there.
    Charlie is all go.. had a few rides today and I feel good after 8 months off (yes I know, I am ashamed). More adventures for me and Charlie soon.. hopefully very soon. :clap
  8. mickd

    mickd crash test dummie

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    nice post mate,as I've never done it from a car its good to know new things:clap
  9. treborbig

    treborbig Been here awhile

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    Sure its been covered.But anyone tried procycle cogent rear shock and front valves on their Dr? .Have had rear shock done by VSM before and run gold vaves in front springsetc and difference was astounding.:clapThis is on another dr setting up for adv riding 32 tank etc:D
  10. wairau

    wairau south pacific itinerant

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    how fast can a bog std dr650 go?

    are they undergeared for top speed or about right?
  11. ozbikedude

    ozbikedude Long timer

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    150km-160km/h,standard gearing is 15/42,i have mine at 15/44 get around same top speed but better for slower stuff 1st,2nd.
  12. DR Steve

    DR Steve Been here awhile

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    I am very happy with the Cogent rear shock with the Ohlins type shaft (rebound adjustment). I moved the shock from my old DR to the new DR but fitted the DDC fork valves to the new bike - old bike had RaceTech emulators. DDC's are IMO considerably better than the emulators in all scenarios.

    I delt direct with Rick @ Cogent.
  13. Portly

    Portly Plodder

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    May 25, 2011
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    Location:
    North coast NSW Aus
    I just got back from another run, 21.5 km/l.
    150 main jet, needle two leaner than std, mixture screw at a shade over 1 3/4 turns, needle tapered over about 23 mm to 1.2 mm at the tip, slide drilled two by 3 mm holes, spring cut to about 102 mm, airbox drilled with a two inch hole saw and extra foam in diaphragm breather.
    The baffle I made for the 40F1 works well.
    The bike is running sweet, smoothly pulling third from 40, fourth from 50 and fifth from 70 km/h and keeps pulling hard higher than I want to go.
    The bike does seem a bit fussier about being warmed up but I don’t regard that as a bad thing, still some decel popping but from everything I have read it is perfectly normal and the std pipe popped a bit, it was just a lot quieter when it popped.
    I might try the same loop again with another quarter turn out on the mixture screw to see what happens.
    I have a good surface thermometer and have checked the crankcase temperature below the oil level after each run and have been running between 83 and 85 degrees so never anything scary there.
    It is like having a different bike and takes the DR to another level. Being able to pull smoothly and harder from lower revs also really livens it up in motard territory, mountain twisties have never been so much fun.
    If only we could drop 30 kg for tighter trails

    Cheers

    Rick
    Update: tried two turns on mixture but 1.75 seems to be the sweet spot ATM.
  14. pzs

    pzs Been here awhile

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    21.5, bloody hell I can only dream, what gearing are you running?
  15. wairau

    wairau south pacific itinerant

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    cheers
  16. treborbig

    treborbig Been here awhile

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    mm sounds the go then .putting a steering damper on there as well so should be well sorted.Tho didnt find that bad in sand but hoping to do simpson after finlke this year.Those shocks come with ceramic coating yes ?need big tank now and airhawk
  17. 0405canvet

    0405canvet Been here awhile

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    If your not getting 20+ then your too rich or really fast! Proper jetting of stock carb can get you more power and better fuel economy.
  18. Portly

    Portly Plodder

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    382
    Location:
    North coast NSW Aus
    I am running standard gearing.
    If you haven't already read through BST Magic on DRriders forum check it out.
    A lot of people say all DRs are different but if your carb is in good condition then Gordon's latest specs seem to work 100% of the time.
    I believe Gordon also has some GSXR mufflers as well as mid pipes for sale and his free advice is invaluable.
    I think people will find less need to gear down once things are in tune.
  19. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    Putting more taper in the jet needle will cause the mixture to become overly rich at lower rpm vs. high. Lowering the needle afterward may cause a minor improvement, but will not solve the problem. Out of the DynoJet, Factory Pro, 6G5 and 6F19 needles, the 6F19, used with the appropriately sized main jet, is the best choice I know of for '96 and up models.

    Slide guide wear is proportional to lift hole area, so drilling the slide will dramatically increase slide guide, emulsion tube and slide wear.

    Some people do believe that drilling the slide improves performance. I'm not convinced of this, as I had an '07 KTM 640 Adventure R on the dyno a while ago that gained ~1 hp from 5.5K to red line simply by going from the double-hole KTM slide to the single hole late DR650 slide. Gains were also made across the entire range at 1/4 opening while the mixture essentially stayed the same, with a max gain in torque of 1.4 ft-lbs at 3K rpm. There were gains across the board at 1/8 opening, with a max gain in torque of 2.6 ft-lbs at 2K rpm, along with the usable rev range extended from 3.4K to 5K rpm. There were also gains across the board at 1/16 opening, with a max gain in torque of 1.2 ft-lbs at 2.5K rpm, along with the usable rev range extended from 2.5K to 3K rpm.

    Cutting the spring will cause the mixture to become overly rich at lower rpm vs. high.

    It is better to improve the under-diaphragm vent filtration by a method that does not restrict breathing (although you may have reintroduced some damping that was lost by increasing the slide lift hole area).

    Regards,

    Derek
  20. grrant1058

    grrant1058 Motorcyclist 24/7

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    Hey Motolab, your contradictory advice does not help anyone.

    Many have used Gordon's set up with excellent results disproving your comments.