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Discussion in 'Australia' started by davorallyfan, Feb 20, 2007.
Cool - does it work left and right ? It doesn't say in the ad.
That belongs in the Look what I found thread
A WB, one of the first tools I ever acquired when I first started to do my own maintenence, about 1973ish, and still works perfect.
For storage, always back off any settings to zero where springs are involved, or with the beam wrenches, the trigger indicator, lest the springs take a set. I might not go as far as hoorang, but if its not going to be used for a bit, it gets backed off.
Yeah mate still heading your way in 2 weeks is the plan, will send you a PM.
I would stay away from this type as previously mentioned accuracy is difficult especially on high torque settings - too much hand shake. Also parallax error. The best type are the ones that click and break.
I have seen a torque wrench with the 1/2" square drive on both sides so that left and right hand threads can be accommodated.
aldi has a torque wrench every now and then for $30
if you want to trust an $30 torque wrench that's up to you,
but last time they came up the general consensus on forums was they were as good as any other unknown brand in the cheap price range.
warren and brown got the nod last time this came up as well.
you can get them on eBay, could be worth keeping an eye out for an eBay 15% off everything special
if it goes bad with a torque wrench, the fix may cost you way more than the tool spend.
For the crank primary drive nut I just add blue loctite and BFT. No issues that I'm aware of to date.
Same here. Calibrated elbow tells me to go as tight as a standard 1/2" drive 300mm breaker bar will allow (without getting silly) with a liberal dose of blue Loctite.
Funny you mention your old WB torque wrench. My old man has one he got for his 21st, making it 47 years old. And it still works perfect.
I used a spring scale for fish from BCF and a length of aluminium pipe on a socket bar for the primary nut.
At two feet out apply half the foot pound load for a lighter pull.
I work in a lab with calibrated masses so was able to check the scale for accuracy before I did the job.
I also use the scale to do a rough check on my torque wrench occasionally.
Good tips guys thanks. I only mentioned the Crank primary drive because I can't remember if I checked it when I did my NSU screws at around 20,000kms. If I did, I would have just been a check of it's tight - not a loctite and torque job. At 60,000kms now, I am planning a clutch inspection,not that I am having any issues, but I also want to recheck my NSU screws and figure if the clutch is getting near it's wear limits, I will replace it while there. It is then that I will check, loctite and torque the primary drive nut - if I have a torque wrench that is capable, otherwise BFT like you mentioned BergDonk.
Just completed the Connie Sue Hwy in WA, started at Cocklebiddy, up to Rawlinna and finished at Warburton
DR went flawlessly, though did discover going round corners slightly difficult with steering dampener set at max !!
Epic country out here...stop thinking about it and do it !!!
Left - Right - Left - Right
Which way you going Nealo?
Screw ya steering damper up a bit!
Gents, time to replace my metal tank.
I don't need a safari, not much chance of doing a trip anytime soon where I will need that sort of range.
I am interested in the 20L acerbic or the IMS. That sort of range will be useful to me.
Is there any real significant difference between the 2?
Yay... installed the seat concepts foam and cover today. I'll test on the W.E. by planting my ass on it for 8hrs.
The stock seat (plus sheepskin) was unbearable after the 5 or 6 hour mark. Let's see if the seat concepts makes it better.
The only question is sheep skin or not?
I've had both.
The Acerbis looks the best by far IMO, but it's wider and has a crappy filler cap.
The IMS holds a bit less, has a better filler cap, feels much slimmer between the legs and looks more old school.
Fuel outlet is in a better spot on the Acerbis for fuel line routing - much tighter on the IMS.
Both should give 400 klm plus range.
Thanks Steve. I knew someone here would have tried them both.
How much wider are these than stock? I ride with a buddy on a 250... so although it takes us 50km to get anywhere good i do try and ride it like a dirt bike. I assume width sux for tight trails and he is hard enough to follow as it is.
Can the filler cap be fixed or replaced?
The filler cap is not a deal breaker. The threaded part goes out of round and makes it hard to thread the cap on.
I had the IMS on my first DR and bought the, new at the time, Acerbis for my second DR. I hated the extra width for a while, but I got used to it.
If you like to ride standing up I'd be looking at the IMS.
Ok. You might recall 4 or 5 pages back, I had an issue with occasional backfire and surging. Well I have carried out a number of things that I have been meaning to do for a while that may or may not lead to these symptoms. These included:
-disconnecting sidestand switch and relay and bridging the relay connector
-replaced header and midpipe gaskets
-drained and refreshed fuel
-installed new spark plugs
-clean and re oil air filter - Not really associated but needed anyway.
Someone suggested to me that the surging could be caused by excessive chain slack and after checking, I have adjusted chain back to spec anyway.
Re-installed the fuel tank today to start and run the bike. Whilst winding over on the starter and before the bike started, I could hear an intermittent tapping noise coming from under the tank that sounded more like electrical arching - The bike started up and idled OK and I could still hear the intermittent but frequent arching noise along with a stumble in the idle at the same time. I immediately thought of the coil, coil leads and spark plug caps.
Removed the tank and setup a test fuel tube so I could run the bike with the tank off.
This is what I found - by jiggling the wire
On closer inspection of that cap I found this - cracked
Something for everyone to watch out for, especially on older bikes is for this: - cap vibrating/rubbing on the exhaust rocker arm shaft set bolt
Witness mark on the set bolt
Problem solvered - new cap coming right up.
Hiya Kezza. Your video is showing 'Private'.
OK. I think I have fixed it - cheers