Oz / Kiwi Suzuki DR650 Adv Riders Sign in Here please

Discussion in 'Australia' started by davorallyfan, Feb 20, 2007.

  1. Portly

    Portly Plodder

    Joined:
    May 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    476
    Location:
    North coast NSW Aus
    The newer pattern E07 in 130/80 is suitable for tubuless whereas the older one was tube only. They have been around since mid last year. I am on my third and find they last a bit longer than the old ones. They are also a bitch to fit compared to the old ones which had a softer bead.
  2. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    4,898
    Location:
    Body's back home, but soul is in the Andes
    Geez - and the old ones weren't exactly easy! I broke one of those unbreakable plastic tyre levers on one...
  3. Nogoodnamesleft

    Nogoodnamesleft Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2015
    Oddometer:
    1,592
    Location:
    Brisbane
    third ??
    dang, how many km's do you do in a year ??

    shop fitted mine so i can't comment on how tuff it was.
    i hope i never find out either.. I'll just hope its my front that punctures, than find out on the track :D
    i've ran a 140 e07 before that on the DR, which was good for me as well.
  4. 0405canvet

    0405canvet Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
    880
    Location:
    brisbanish
    605 does not have a very good reputation!
  5. schmik

    schmik Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2016
    Oddometer:
    81
    Location:
    Shitney
    Cool. Found the E-07 in stock about 10mins from home. $288 fitted and balanced.
    Will sort it out next week.

    Interestingly my fuel economy has improved. Was sucking 5.5L per 100km.
    Changed back to using 98 instead of 91 and now it's back to 5.0L per 100km. It was 5.0L per 100km many many tanks ago when i was using 98.

    The land cruiser is the same. 10 - 15% better on 95 or 98.
    I would stick with 95 but some places have 91 or 98. No 95.
  6. monkeycircus

    monkeycircus n00b

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2017
    Oddometer:
    1
    Hey folks looking for advice to diagnose a decent oil leak from left side lowest nut at base of plate. [​IMG] Had been riding mostly off road for 3 days, something sounded odd going through the gears about 50km from home, but bike rode well to my driveway where leak was first spotted? Thoughts greatly appreciated[​IMG]
  7. Oaters

    Oaters Old - not bold - moto riding addict

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,058
    Location:
    Awakairangi, Aotearoa
    Hi Monkeycircus - re your post above, I believe these are the pics you're wanting to post - I'm sure someone here will have some helpful comment - good luck with your trusty DR

    IMG_0004.JPG

    IMG_0005.JPG
    ER70S-2 likes this.
  8. Nogoodnamesleft

    Nogoodnamesleft Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2015
    Oddometer:
    1,592
    Location:
    Brisbane
    a bit of a long shot, but by the looks you'll be in there anyways cleaning.

    pull off the front sprocket cover and check behind the sprocket if you have a CSS retainer, or if the seal is leaking.
    clean up the whole area, check and top up oil and check where the leak starts if it doesn't look too ugly in there.

    I've had mine even with a CSS retainer leak and drip down to the bash plate and frame rail.
    i don't know what sort of mess it would make if you don't have a retainer, but I'm guessing oil could fling forward and then down perhaps.
    DR DAN and Oaters like this.
  9. LivingdeadCamo

    LivingdeadCamo Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2016
    Oddometer:
    568
    Location:
    Woongarrah, NSW, Australia.
    Hey guys, as I mentioned a few days ago, I've just grabbed a DR.
    Maiden voyage yesterday and all is good. It appears to have the gsxr can on it and it burbles and carries on when I roll off, what's the fix to smooth that out?
  10. schmik

    schmik Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2016
    Oddometer:
    81
    Location:
    Shitney
    IMO, that is normal.
    I just went from a stock can to a GSXR can. You can now hear the burble when you roll off. The stock exhaust does it too but it's so quiet you can't hear it.
    If it bugs you you can go to a stock exhaust.
  11. Wigster

    Wigster Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    60
  12. 0405canvet

    0405canvet Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
    880
    Location:
    brisbanish
    Might be considered normal but a 45 pilot and a reset on the mixture will get rid of most of the burbles and carrying on.
    LivingdeadCamo likes this.
  13. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    4,898
    Location:
    Body's back home, but soul is in the Andes
    Good call! The standard Suzuki CSS seal is 7mm thick and hard to get, but 8mm ones are easy to find. Ive had at least 4 of the stock ones fitted and they all - plus the originals - leaked. Since fitting the 8mm seals myself, no problems in 25,000 of hard riding - on two bikes.
    However, there's two gotchas behind the seal: one is a oil feed in a small nub in the casing, and the other is an oilway in the countershaft itself. It's easy to push the seal in too far and block the oil feed. Who knows what damage will occur? There are some suggestions that this might eventually be the cause of isolated third gear failures. By all acounts there's not a lot of pressure, but apparently it's enough to push the seal out, hence the eventual adoption of a stamped metal seal retainer by the factory about 5 years ago.
    When I fitted them, I made sure that the outer face of the seal is flush with the casing. Try that - it's a cheap experiment which might work. If not, shout out!
  14. motolab

    motolab Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,960
    If the mixture were richened via the fuel screw in order to prevent decel popping, the mixture would be too rich any time the engine was idling or operating just off idle. Additionally, the DR650 being a bit unusual in that it has a significant amount of overlap between circuits at part throttle (more so than on any other engine I've worked on), installing a larger pilot jet in an effort to reduce trailing throttle popping will result in a mixture that is too rich all the way from idle up to 1/4 opening.

    Regards,

    Derek
  15. 0405canvet

    0405canvet Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
    880
    Location:
    brisbanish
    The DR handles the larger pilot no problem, in my experience, and on some bikes actually gives them more torque and a much improved off idle smoothness and reluctance to stalling. Decel popping is very annoying and unnecessary, in my opinion.
  16. motolab

    motolab Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,960
    Many carburetors have air cut valves that richen the mixture any time the vacuum in the intake port is greater than at idle. There would be no need for air cut valves if there was no penalty to just running the mixture richer all the time.

    If by "handles" you mean there won't be a rideability issue, then you may in many cases be correct. However the mixture will nevertheless be incorrect (all other things being set up correctly). Keep in mind that the CO when jetted properly will be ~4.5% at most openings, whereas rich driveability issues normally occur above ~11-13%. There may be improvements in torque from installing a size 45 pilot jet if the float height was set too high, the original pilot jet was obstructed, or the jet needle clip position was too lean.

    Regards,

    Derek
  17. TRTN

    TRTN Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    80
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Here's another one to add to that decel popping mix (not that i want to get involved in the debate, i'm steering well clear of this one) - my DR was pretty loud on throttle close until i set the idle to the factory recommended 1,500 rpm.
    That's higher revving than feels like a 'normal' idle to me - turns out i was at about 1,100 RPM before, done by what sounded right to me.

    Results? No more backfire, lots less popping.
  18. Woody2627

    Woody2627 Grey Wobbler

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,075
    Location:
    Jindabyne
    Woohoo, off to the Post Office, parcel waiting from Procycles. :clap
  19. dirtsurfer

    dirtsurfer Adventourer

    Joined:
    May 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,666
    Location:
    On the road to recovery
    I installed plex valves months ago and didn't really ride the bike for some time then when I did it was just to commute to work (12 ks) and home. Generally it had a nice enough firm feel but the clutch side fork leg weeped oil from the bolt in the bottom which I left until I got the motivation to fix. I finally dismantled , drained , fixed the leak on Grand Final week end. Yesterday I actually took my DR into some sand(y fire trails) and rocky terrain and conclude that the front suspension is a bit too firm. It handled the sand very nicely but was a bit jarring over rocks , lumps and pot holes.
    I was thinking of draining a little oil out of the forks. Currently the airgap is 110 mm as recommended by FFRC as per my weight and load specs. Maybe go for 115mm air gap and see how it goes!?
    robmoto and BergDonk like this.
  20. explodingmouse

    explodingmouse Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    368
    Location:
    Adelaide
    My Drs pretty standard , what chains are you guys using ?