Oz / Kiwi Suzuki DR650 Adv Riders Sign in Here please

Discussion in 'Australia' started by davorallyfan, Feb 20, 2007.

  1. Turumarth

    Turumarth Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 10, 2018
    Oddometer:
    16
    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
  2. Fester50

    Fester50 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2014
    Oddometer:
    19
    Dirtsurfer, thank you very much for that. I just ordered one.
  3. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    8,255
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    Probably worth taking the chain off if going any distance.
  4. sh4kes

    sh4kes Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2012
    Oddometer:
    477
    I came across an old grey nomad couple near the Victoria highlands in a motorhome with a covered trailer hauling 2 bikes (one was a DR if i recall correctly). They also had a small Suzuki Vitara.....when they moved one drove the motorhome and the other one the Vitara. They said they just cruised around and parked for weeks at a time and used the bikes to head out and explore. The Vitara was really for rainy days and grocery runs etc because they didnt want to pack up the camp.

    Not sure if I'd like to do it as a full time gig, but it sure sounds like a cool retirement!
    JohnG., Nogoodnamesleft and BergDonk like this.
  5. TheDecepticon

    TheDecepticon Wannabe

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2014
    Oddometer:
    553
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    Hi.

    Anyone done an NSU remove & replace before? Any tips or tricks, any thing to watch out for?

    Thanks. :D
  6. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    8,255
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    If you remove the NSU, don't forget the spring and plunger underneath, and keep it oil tight. Presumably just cut the wires from the bung, maybe a dab of silicone. Then sort the wiring, or not, not sure.
  7. Halifax614

    Halifax614 Misadventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2015
    Oddometer:
    102
    Location:
    Cairns, Australia
    Hi gents:- Just for interest's sake, over the past three months of mainly road riding I have been monitoring the difference between inlet & outlet temperatures at the oil cooler over a range of local conditions (i.e. warm to tropical/humid). Maximum ambient has been around 35 - 36 degrees C, & minimum about 18 degrees C lately.
    I have used two K-type thermo-couples with bead sensors, each secured with small hose clamps on the inlet & outlet metal plumbing pipes of the oil cooler & reading on separate meters. Ambient is read on a 3rd permanently fitted 'Koso' meter. All 3 meters were cross-checked against one another & were found within 2 degrees.
    All as below:-

    015.JPG

    Lower sensor located as below:-
    017.JPG

    Upper sensor location as below:-

    018.JPG

    In general, the top sensor has read approx. 45 to 50 degrees C above ambient, whilst the lower one has averaged approx. 8 to 10 degrees C cooler than the top. Differential never more than 10 degrees C. This has been true at road speeds around 80 to 100 klms/hr. At slower speeds down to pottering in first gear, the diffferential has been down to 2 or 3 degrees at worst & soon increases as speed is raised.
    Standard engine, with a bash plate below & an Acerbis tank above that may affect cooling?

    Previously, I ran a single temp. sensor attached to the external oil line at the banjo fitting above the clutch cover. With ambient temps. in the mid 30's C, running at road speeds of 80 to 100 klicks, I'd see 68 to 75 deg.C. Stationary for 2 minutes with engine running, the temp. would rise to mid-90's C, but drop quickly once under way again.
    Maybe the above will be of interest?
  8. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,339
    Location:
    Cairns - Queensland Australia
    Very similar to readings I get from my vapor with sensor on the upper oil banjo fitting on the back of the head, only I get a few degrees warmer. Similarly in mid 30's C ambient at a constant 100 km/h I get between 77 and 82 deg C. Stationary idle for a few minutes climbs to anywhere between about 110 to 130 deg C then remains steady depending on the ambient. Drops quickly once moving. Slow 1st and 2 gear single trail, type stuff, the engine maintains higher temp due to less airflow through the cooler @ 90 to 100 deg C. - I've just noticed, we live in the same place !

    [​IMG]
  9. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    8,255
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    Temp stuff is interesting for sure. I think its the root cause of tooth pitting on the gearboxes when that happens. I have fitted a bigger than stock cooler that seems to pull an extra <> 5C out of the oil and I think another cooler upgrade will be needed for summer. Seems OK now with ambients < 20C. Also the Lubealloy oil currently being tested does seem to have resulted in lower oil temps as suggested by the oil bloke who sold it to us, perhaps 2-4C. Bash plates and big tanks do reduce cooling, but not quantified by me.
  10. schmik

    schmik Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2016
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    Shitney
    By being hot and in 3rd gear? or just from being hot?
  11. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    8,255
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    My thinking ATM is that we have 2 sorts of gearbox fails:
    • catastrophic, often involving 3rd gear, and 3rd gear fails seem to be of 2 types, dogs falling off 3rd drive and a gear just exploding, and its not always 3rd that explodes, but mostly is. Exploding gears probably happens because of bushing shaft clearances leading to gear misalignment therefore stress concentrations. Dog fails are a basic design limitation, perhaps associated with manufacturing tolerances etc. Note there is at least one example of a replacement Nova 3rd drive gear losing its dogs, which was the trigger for the complete Nova gearbox I'm testing ATM.
    • tooth pitting which isn't catastrophic. According to Nova, the temp at the gear tooth interface is up to 40C hotter than that of the 'ambient' oil temp. So 100C in the sump equates to up to 140C at the teeth. There is stuff all info available about oil viscosity and film strength at those temps, except for the Lubealloy stuff we're testing, which drops 3% of its viscosity between 100 and 150C, and why you and I, among others, are testing it.
    Nogoodnamesleft likes this.
  12. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    8,255
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    Just realised I didn't answer the question. Hot and in 3rd means the teeth are under load/pressure and the pitting is more likely. Of the gearboxes I've seen, tooth pitting seems to be worst on 5th gears, which makes sense I guess. Lugging in any gear can't help either.
  13. schmik

    schmik Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2016
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    Shitney
    Hi Gents,

    I have an immix rear rack coming in the post: https://www.immixracing.com/90-16-suzuki-dr650-cargo-luggage-utility-rear-tail-rack-carrier/

    The rack has mounts for the indicators. I currently have my indicators on extensions. This helps with swapping between the shitty generic rack i currently own and the grab handles.
    I'll likely mount the new rack and leave it on so won't need the extensions for the indicators.

    Do the indicator wires have bullet connectors somewhere? Or I need to cut and re-solder?
  14. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    8,255
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    Blinker connections are up under the seat. I shorten them to the same length as the front, moving the connections back accordingly FWIW.
  15. leighwgold

    leighwgold Ph.D. of B.S.

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    116
    Location:
    Salisbury Heights
    It's battery replacement time, and I am seeking the general feeling about lithium battery replacement for the heavy as shit lead acid. What brands are good, has anyone had any problems, what size is best? I ride fairly regularly, but occasionally can go maybe 2-3 weeks between starts. I don't want to keep the battery plugged into a tender.
    My DR is a 2012 and I'm guessing it is the original battery, so it's done ok, it's just the weight, size is not an issue.
  16. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    8,255
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    I've had a good run with an EarthX in my Berg, still going fine after about 6 yrs. I fitted one to my DR, but it only lasted a year, but premature failure may have been self induced by mounting it near the exhaust, not sure. I replaced it with a smaller SSB which is now 2.5 years old and fine, with the same spec battery now 4 years old in DR2. DR2 has had stuff all use and the battery has held charge without issue for 6 months at a time, cranking it happily.

    One of these which is physically quite small and might run out of juice if it does a real lot of cranking, but they have been fine; https://superstart.com.au/lfpz7-s-lightweight-lithium-ion-phosphate-motorcycle-battery.html
    [​IMG]
    They have all the electronics built in so work like normal, except don't use a smart charger, and no maintenance charger needed. They do need to warmup a bit when its really cold, but it did start the DR last year a bit reluctantly @ -6C
    leighwgold likes this.
  17. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    8,255
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
  18. Woody2627

    Woody2627 Grey Wobbler

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,222
    Location:
    Jindabyne
    Could be of interest to you.
    http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/done-with-lithium-batteries.1314911/#post-35031103
  19. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    8,255
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    Looking at the catalogue, this one is the same physical size as what I have but lots more CCA; https://superstart.com.au/lh5l-bs-high-performance-lithium-ion-phosphate-motorcycle-battery.html and this one is a bit taller and takes more charging amps; https://superstart.com.au/lh7l-bs-high-performance-lithium-ion-phosphate-motorcycle-battery.html

    The 790 does crank a bit slower than a stocker, so I might upgrade.

    My physical size restrictions don't apply to a stock bike of course.
  20. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,339
    Location:
    Cairns - Queensland Australia

    Same as what I am running - now 11 months and has been great so far - bike can sit for weeks and fire right up. Curious as to why a smart charger is no good BergDonk ? Not that I have had to yet but I only have a smart charger. What is the alternative charger to use if I wanted to give it a tickle up ?

    [​IMG]