Pablo's DR350

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Pablo83, Sep 14, 2010.

  1. shearboy2004

    shearboy2004 KIWIINUSA

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    Mate you have the same model as me 98 dirt , I believe that this model was a sort of a transition one as it had both auto decompression and the manual lever . I removed the lever as like you found i never needed it .

    I have since converted it to electric start and gone 450cc with Yamaha front end along with the odd other bling!
    #21
  2. motoman250f

    motoman250f Been here awhile

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    Hope I'm not sticking my nose where it doesn't belong because I don't have a dr but,, The loose feeling in my experience on many klr's, sherpa, xl's etc has been almost completely solved with fork braces. the kdx is the only bike I've added a brace to and had it not improve much but its a pretty large fork tube and a lighter bike compared to the others. One thing I notice is if you turn the bars up to the steering stop and can push on the front of the front wheel with 1 finger and can get it to move more than about a half inch its almost emergency to get a brace on it. This is because as your in a rut or any uneven surface the front wheel will wander and that creates an unstalble feel and takes away your confidence. This is why on inverted forks they keep going larger on the fork tubes, IMHO adds rigidity, you cant put a brace on an inverted fork. Just my 2 cents,,

    good luck Paul!
    Ion H.
    #22
  3. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    Subscribed!
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  4. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    That makes sense. The bike seems to be in great shape, makes good power, and doesn't smoke.
    #24
  5. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    I got tired of waiting for money for parts so I pulled the bikes in the shop to start working on whatever I could do without parts.

    [​IMG]

    First thing I did was swap the forks. Both bikes have 43mm forks, so the job was very straight forward. According to previous comments in this thread, the '98 350 had cartridge forks while the '91 250 didn't. But the '91 250 has adjustable compression, so I'm guessing it too has cartridge forks.

    Differences:
    - The 98 350 has a larger axle
    - The 91 250S has adjustable compression and preload while the 98 350 has adjustable compression and rebound.
    - The 91 250S has a longer brake line so it can get around the gauge cluster (this might be helpful to someone installing taller forks on their bike).
    - The 250S has fine thread on the caliper banjo bolt while the 350 has course threads.
    - The 250S upper triple clamps have extra brackets for the gauges.

    Done:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #25
  6. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    The DR250S's battery weights 3lb, 12oz. I hope to eliminate this.
    #26
  7. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    Does anyone know the stock front and rear spring rates on the '98 DR350 kicker?
    #27
  8. BikePilot

    BikePilot Long timer

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    Great project.

    For the record the cartridge forks, while nice aren't sourced from any RM and aren't really even similar to RM forks (RM conventionals from the mid-late 90s were 49mm twin chambers).

    Stock fork springs I think were .38kg, but you can look it up on racetech's site. This is really too soft for anything without pedals.

    The '91 forks are damper rod (non-cartridge) forks. Adjustable compression has nothing to do with the type of valving.

    The stock shock spring is pretty stiff and probably just fine as long as you aren't huge.

    Boxing in the swingarm will go a long way to keeping the bike straight. The rear shock is also needs valving work quite badly (and the forks need springs badly and could really use a re-valve as well). Between fixing the swingarm and having the suspension sprung and valved properly, it'll be much better. That was going to be my next move on the DR before I decided an XR650R made more sense for me.
    #28
  9. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    Thanks for the info

    #29
  10. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    The 350's rear fender, subframe, and taillight weigh 3lb 7oz.

    The 250's fender, subframe, light and license bracket weight 7lb 8oz. The vast majority of the weight difference is in the license bracket. I'll be attaching the license directly to the fender and saving all that extra weight.

    Because of all the offset locations of linkage parts it's tough to determine if all the rear end linkage geometry is identical between the two bikes. Everything looks identical, except the 350's swingarm is 3/16" longer.
    #30
  11. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    I've heard of battery elimination kits. What do they do and where do I get one?

    The battery on the DR250S only weighs 3 lb 12 oz, but it's still weight I'd like to get rid of. There is no starter on the bike and I don't need to turn on the headlight when the bike is off, so the only thing the battery is good for is keeping the headlight steady at an idle. Will a battery elimination kit do this?
    #31
  12. tdrrally

    tdrrally Long timer

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    i used a 4700micro fared capicitor on my dr350s years back
    you can buy them at rat shack

    works great as long as the bike is running

    the forks are the same as a drz250 if i recall
    i think xr400 too
    and the springs are the same as dr650
    #32
  13. plugeye

    plugeye unforgiven

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    if your CDI will allow it to start & run without a battery, yes you can eliminate the battery. you can buy one as advertised or save some money & buy a capacitor. thats all the eliminator is anyway.
    if i recall correctly, a 22,000 ufd 35volt electrolytic should do the trick.
    running this on my 79 xt500 6-volt system without issue.
    #33
  14. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    Thanks guys, I'll give it a try.
    #34
  15. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    I got some weld-on peg extensions

    [​IMG]


    Normally you would just weld these around the existing spikes, but I want to try and keep things light so I cut off the old spikes first. I had to leave some of them to help me properly locate the new ones.

    [​IMG]


    I offset them slightly to the rear since I'm a tall guy. After some welding:

    [​IMG]


    And some bracing:

    [​IMG]


    Stock vs modified:

    [​IMG]

    One down, one to go.

    [​IMG]

    [NOTE from 9/13/11]: since installing these, I've absolutely mangled them. The DR has a lower foot peg height than other dirt bikes I'm used to and the pegs tend to hit lots of rocks on more technical trails. I'll be replacing these this winter with solid cast pegs of some sort.
    #35
  16. yondering

    yondering Long timer

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    Where did you get the foot peg extensions? I've been thinking of those for my bike.
    #36
  17. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    #37
  18. yondering

    yondering Long timer

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    Thanks, I was hoping it was somewhere else. $30 for two weld-on strips of steel seems a little steep; I'd rather make my own.
    #38
  19. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    Before I start welding the swingarm I'd like to pull the bearings out. The Clymer manual says to use a drift to tap them out from the opposite side, but it looks like they are set in a recess that doesn't allow them to be drifted out. An I missing something?

    How do I get the swingarm bearings out?
    #39
  20. cruiserbrett

    cruiserbrett Adventurer

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    blind hole bearing puller. harbor freight has one for a reasonable price. Check Distechs dr350 rebuild thread, he covers this...

    -Brett

    #40