Painting Fork Lowers/sliders

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by pkboxer, Jan 5, 2013.

  1. pkboxer

    pkboxer Adventurer

    Joined:
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    cincinnatus oh
    I know I've seen some painted fork lowers/sliders on /5 or /6 airheads.

    I'm considering it and wondering if people who did it have any advice.

    First thing that came to mind was if I should sand them smooth rather than painting over the "texture" of the cast finish.

    If painting them offends you please just shake your head and move on.:D
    #1
  2. Biebs

    Biebs BMW Airhead

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    "If painting them offends you please just shake your head and move on." :cry


    I will not stand idley by and see these artriocities occur on my watch!! I will fly out to Ohio and take a can of whopass on you!~! :deal


    OK now your problem is fixed I feel better.:clap



    Seems that you will have to etch or use a special primer on the Aluimuim fork sliders to have a paint adhere.:freaky


    Ok now I need to get over the fact that you are taking a BMW that was delivered from the factory in perfect condition and modifying. - Please consider UJM as an option. I know Ohio winter can be boring but get a life!!:rofl
    #2
  3. Renner

    Renner combustophile

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    sanding smooth sounds like a lot of work to me.
    Just how cold & snowy is it out there?

    Do you have spare sliders to experiment with?
    I'd guess a pair could be had cheap.

    If you go with removing the textured finish of the casting, would you also remove that "casting flash" sort of vertical rib that runs up the back of the slider?

    Seems to me you could go all or nothing... pretty much whatever you like.
    #3
  4. Boxer Metal

    Boxer Metal Mad Scientist

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    Clean them really well with a mag wheel cleaner or Purple Power using a green Scotch pad, wipe down with Alumiprep, warm them up either in the oven at a very low temp or put them in the sun fr a while and give it 2 good coats of paint. It will last for many year before you ave to re-due it or touch them up.
    #4
  5. pkboxer

    pkboxer Adventurer

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    Thanks all.

    I think I'll go the non-sanding route and follow bmweuro's advice.

    I image I could even clean the paint back off if it isn't what I want but I think I paid $30 for this set of them so it's not a case of "no turning back"

    Sorry to come out on the offensive. Seen too many questions get no answers and just lots of personal opinions.
    #5
  6. Renner

    Renner combustophile

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    not at all... totally know what you mean

    what color? :evil
    #6
  7. JZed

    JZed Have GS will travel.

    Joined:
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    I painted the fork sliders on my '86 R80 a few years ago. Cleaned them as BMWEURO described and hung the sliders up in the garage door. I used a good heat gun to preheat the sliders be warm to the touch and applied several light coats, 4 or 5, with a little preheat in between coats to keep the sliders a little warm. (pretty warm to touch, but not too hot to hold). The result as a pretty durable paint coat that has withstood 6 years of mostly year round commuting and still looks good. I use a similar method on my valve covers.

    JZED
    SC
    '86 R80
    '92 R100GS
    '06 KLR650
    #7
  8. mattcfish

    mattcfish R90X

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    What about powder coating?
    #8
  9. Zodiac

    Zodiac loosely portrayed

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    Mine were almost weathered white from losing their original black paint.

    One night removed the wheel, fender, calipers, reflectors, etc.

    Wiped down the the sliders with simple rubbing alcohol.

    Didn't even prime them - just sprayed em with Krylon semi gloss premium black.

    Looked brand new, year later, still do.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #9
  10. boxerboy81

    boxerboy81 Stay Horizontal

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    [color=#04040]This was done last September...

    Advice given was that if I lightly sanded back the original paint, that the new paint would adhere well enough to it. I had already sanded past that point, so off to the local paint shop with the part.
    They sold me these to etch prime, then paint.
    [​IMG]

    Etch prime: 2-3 light coats, one hour apart. Lightly sand in between. I used 1200 w&d.
    Paint: 3 light coats ensuring adequate cover each time. Light sanding in between. I used 1600 w&d.

    It's been cold and wet here lately, temps at 12-14C, rain, fog etc. Not ideal painting weather. So I set up a dual halogen lamp thing that I have (throws out some warmth) and hung the parts about 2 feet away for a wee while. Sprayed the paint on and left them hang with the warm lights on. They've come up well so far. I've completed the black too, but the last picture will be the finished job on the bike.[/color]

    [​IMG]

    [color=#04080]Complete. I'm happy with the result, but time will tell if it's been done well enough.[/color]

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    #10
  11. TINK

    TINK Been here awhile

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    I went the opposite direction and had the black paint on my 1979 R100RT (PROJECT-S) sand blasted as I prefer the natural look of the bare aluminum.
    [​IMG]

    TINK
    #11