Parts Washer Modify/Build

Discussion in 'Equipment' started by Rhyno, May 30, 2013.

  1. Rhyno

    Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator

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    Here's my contribution to a topic that is still debated and wondered about.

    I built a good parts washer well over 20 years ago, and now I need another one. Unfortunately, the first one was built for someone else, with their money, so I don't have access to it.

    I have been needing to do this for a few years, but now it is finally the right time, again.....

    I had some parts for a "By-Pass" oil filter that I was supposed to install on my last 5.9L Cummins. That project got "shelved," and I have been shuffling the parts around. The parts included some custom length, fuel/oil rated hoses and fittings. (Fuel is considered a solvent) I also had a common filter and filter housing that is used in the Medium to Heavy trucking industry.

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/ByPassFilter.jpg

    I got some motivation, and 25% coupon and headed to HoBo Freight. I bought the washer for $94.99 - 25% and also a small "Dolly" for $9.00.

    [​IMG]

    http://www.harborfreight.com/movers-dolly-93888.html

    The dolly gave me 4 casters, nuts, washers, and bolts. (plus some firewood with caustic smoke.)

    I lowered the parts washer shelf by measuring and drilling. I can't remember the exact numbers, but the shelf will now allow the 17" Five Gallon bucket. While I was there, I drilled and tapped and added some fittings, a 1/4 turn valve, and a short nipple. I used Epoxy to secure the fittings to the basin. (Glued and Screwed)

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/DrainValve.jpg

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/EpoxiedDrainFitting.jpg

    I cut some scrap MDF, lined the perimeter with some 2x4 scraps and attached the casters from the HoBo Dolly. This was made to have a tight fit and is used as a base. I also mounted the metal shelf upside down. That way there is a stop to keep stuff from falling off of the back and sides.

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/18FtCord.jpg

    My garage doesn't have a lot of electrical outlets, so I put on an 18 foot cord. (of course another garage surplus) This was after wiring up a junction box so that a switch controlled the electricity to two outlets and also cosmetically covered a hole in the basin. The inside edge was covered by a piece of Aluminum, clamped between 2 pieces of steel channel and "Hammered" into perfection.

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/AlumBenderTools.jpg

    The Aluminum and junction box were then Pop Riveted together.

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/SwitchBoxPopRivet.jpg

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/TestFit2.jpg

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/PlugSwitchWire.jpg

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/PlugSwitchFront.jpg

    Drilled and added a grommet for the pressure hose. It just flops around....it does have a brass fitting and kind-of simulates a nozzle.

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/OilHoseGrommet.jpg

    I used a Submersible Pond Pump from Lowes. I think that it was close to $19.99. It hangs from the pressure line, and is close to 3.5 inches off of the bottom. I didn't add any filtering, other than water filled to 2 inches below the bottom of the pump.

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/PumpDrainTube.jpg



    [​IMG]


    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/Pump.jpg

    Lid open, simple work light and everything turns off with the switch.

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/Finished.jpg

    The lid closed with the light still in place. The lid doesn't close completely with the light clamped on, but far enough for me....

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/LidClosed.jpg

    And I use Solvent that was purchased from a gasoline style pump at a Fuel/Oil Distribution center. $5.19 a gallon

    It might be Stoddard Solvent, Naptha, White Gas, Mineral Spirits, but the pump said "Solvent" and it has a very light smell of kerosene and is clear.
    #1
  2. Rhyno

    Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator

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    Tomorrow, I'll add an inside Pic shot.
    #2
  3. Rhyno

    Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator

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    I also shortened the black drain hose, hoping for less bottom level water/solvent/dirt agitation.
    #3
  4. zeeede

    zeeede Long timer

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    I don't know much about homemade parts washers... maybe people have been using these pumps for years with no problems... but the safety guy in me would be very worried about using an electrically powered pump designed to move water with a flammable solvent. Please don't blow yourself up. YMMV.
    #4
  5. Rhyno

    Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator

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    Thanks for the concerns. You have some "points" for an argument, too.

    I would like to say to "try this" but maybe I shouldn't.

    You decide.....

    Take a stainless-steel kitchen bowl, fill it however full (with one of these....gasoline, diesel, kerosene, Naptha, white gas, Coleman Fuel, etc) but make sure that there is liquid in it. Stand back a few feet and throw a lit match in it. The lit match will go out, once it hits the liquid. I know that it sounds unsafe and maybe stupid, but until the fuel gets to a certain atomization point where it mixes with the air, it won't combust, explode, or ignite.

    Of course, my memories of yester-year fuels are/might be different than today's "Alcohol induced Hippie fuel" gasoline, but all of the others won't light until their temperature gets higher than the sun will make the earth.

    My "Solvent" is similar to Kerosene.

    Another point to think about is the motor style. The motor doesn't have any brushes that contact the commutator/contact areas on the motor shaft. So there isn't any chance of "spark" as the brushes leave one contact and enter the next.

    The motor works off of magnetic theory, similar to an alternator versus a DC generator.

    The most dangerous thing on this is the "un-shielded" light bulb. Hopefully, that won't ever be a problem.

    Either way, I appreciate the concern. Hopefully, I was able to give you and others a little "insight."

    But if I "all of a sudden disappear...." hopefully I didn't suffer too much....:D
    #5
  6. Rhyno

    Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator

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    I forgot to add...

    I used a "semi clear" paint bucket so that I can visually monitor the level of solvent and dirt. The pic doesn't show it, but I can see through it.

    And for those who might not have a "complete" understanding, the majority of the solvent is stored in the bucket versus the basin. That way I only purchase 4.5 - 5.0 gallons versus the 20 gallons that it is rated for....

    The 1/4 turn valve is always open and the basin is always draining. I put a piece of steel wool, rolled up, into the drain hole. It stops Carb Jets and other small parts from falling into the bucket.

    The water is separating the dirt, while the parts washer is not in use, and the 5 Micron Oil By-Pass filter is filtering while the pump is in use.

    Anyways.....Let me know what you think
    #6
  7. Rhyno

    Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator

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    Here is a link to another thread, but it clearly shows the "DC Generator Comm/Contact spark line."

    Check it.....

    http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?p=371058#post371058

    Maybe I should change my "Signature" to say
    #7
  8. Rhyno

    Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator

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    Here are some "Simple Science" pics that demonstrate how the water and Solvent separate.

    The first pic shows how much solvent is in the jar prior to adding water.

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1403.jpg

    As the pics progress, I am pouring water into the jar of solvent. Eventually, the last jar has more water than solvent, but you can see that the amount on top is equal to the amount that was in the beginning.

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1404.jpg

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1406.jpg

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1407.jpg
    #8
  9. Rhyno

    Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator

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  10. Rhyno

    Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator

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    This post is some more "Simple Science" that will address some people's fear of "Solvent" being too flammable or having too low of a Flash Point.

    The first pic shows some EverClear. The Second pics shows, but it is hard to see in the pic, the EverClear on fire and the whole wet spot is a blue flame.

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1398.jpg

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1399.jpg

    The next pic is freshly poured Solvent, with a lighter touching the fluid. It's a 70 degree day, very low humidity, warm cement, and nothing but a new "Clean Spot" on my driveway.

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1402.jpg
    #10
  11. Rhyno

    Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator

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    So after all of that,

    Here are a few pics that show it in action. If I had used an oil filter that had a larger Micron Rating and Higher Gallons per Minute, the overall flow would probably be more. I am alright with it like it is. The more flow/higher pressure, the more of a chance to "SplashBack" into my eyes or on the floor.

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1409.jpg

    This pic shows the fluid draining back into the bucket.

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    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1412.jpg

    This pic shows how much water was put in with relevance to the bottom of the pump.

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/WaterInBottom.jpg

    This pic shows how much total fluid from the bottom of the bucket to the bottom of the pump. If you look close, you can even see the separation line of the fluids.

    [​IMG]

    http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums...sWasherBuild/WaterampSolvent2BottomOfPump.jpg
    #11
  12. Rhyno

    Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator

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  13. Rhyno

    Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator

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    So, I think that is it...:clap

    Questions?
    Arguments?
    Simple Science?

    Maybe a check up, down the road.
    #13
  14. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

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    I see your reasoning behind the science and set up, but at the end of the day I have to say I'm just happy with my stock HF parts washer and replacing the kerosene very year or so since it's only $4/ gallon. What can I say, I'm lazy. :lol3
    #14
  15. zeeede

    zeeede Long timer

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    Thanks for the indepth write-up. When I first saw your water/solvent dirt collection method, I thought I was genius.

    I understand lots about vapor pressures, flash points, liquid phase vs. vapor phase ignition, etc, but it's good you clarified for everyone following along at home.

    You're right about the submersed pump probably not being able to cause ignition... no oxygen no boom, right? As long as it stays submersed. Keep an eye on your solvent level! And your solvent does have a pretty high flash point... solvents like that are usually in the 100 - 150 degree range, so unless it's wicked hot and sweaty in the garage or your pump overheats and heats up the solvent, it'll be tough to ignite. So static build-up from the friction of transfering the sovlent probably won't cause an ignition either. You may have to worry about it vaporizing a bit while spraying, but other than that, I guess you're good, eh?

    Be careful if you switch to a different solvent.
    Let me know if you burn your eyebrows off! :kboom If so, try to get it on video!
    #15
  16. Rhyno

    Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator

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    Thanks.... and thanks for the laugh. I don't video much, but if my time comes to loose my eyebrows (....again..:rofl) I hope that I have my camera running.
    #16
  17. Rhyno

    Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator

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    Please share....where are you getting it at for that price?

    To me, this style of basin is easier to use, plus $80 a year or so, is too much!

    Please have the video camera running while you drain the fluid out. Share it with us all.
    #17
  18. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

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    Local gas/propane station about 10 miles from my house. :D
    #18
  19. kirkster70

    kirkster70 moto junkie

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    Nice job, Rhyno!


    Very informative write-up. :clap
    #19
  20. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    Keep an eye on the wire sheating going into the pump motor. Solvent dried out mine and caused it to crack. Could that have grounded the wires and caused a fire, that I don't know but I replaced with the same pump and plugged in a GFCI now.:eek1

    Bought at the same place where I bought the washer and usually get my cheaper solvent. It sure said aquarium pump right on the box.:rofl

    Cheap magnetic pumps....they sure do attract the metal filings if sitting at the bottom of the tank. Then that gets on the impeller and jams them. Big magnet in my tank now.:wink:
    #20