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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by anorphirith, Jan 8, 2017.
hand tighten only
Lol.. "Hand tighten plus a quarter turn", no "Hand tighten only"... what if it's synthetic oil on a Tuesday? Or does it depend on tires?
Sorry... having a laugh.
Same result for me. Now made in China. There is so much paint on the rounded nut no wrench or socket fits it. I sent mine back and got a new one from them at no further cost. I stopped buying them. I torqued mine to factory and the nut rounds off when removing. K&N have jumped the shark. I liked the nut and the hole but it's a pain anymore with the shit nut.
and you don't happen to have knowledge about r1100 or r1150's
My experience with the K&N filter was with my Harley, where access is difficult. And it’s difficult not to make a mess when changing the filter. The nut on the end of the filter looked like a desirable convenience, not. I bought two off of Amazon, and had trouble removing the second one. I do confess to installing filters to the high side of the torque allowed. Maybe as a long time Harley owner I have developed an inordinate fear of oil leaks.
I can recall, as a teenager, driving a screw driver though a stuck oil filter on an old dodge to remove it. A point of caution here: oil filter housings tear easily and you could end up with a difficult mess.
If you become temped to drive a screwdriver through anything on your R1200, I think that you should probably just step back and collect yourself. :/
I prefer this style wrench, mechanic by trade here...
Can we meet half-way? Let's make it "Hand-Tight" plus an eight of a turn...
I have one of those in my tool box and they are pretty handy when it comes to odd size filters in tight spots when I don't have the proper wrench, the harder you twist the tighter they grab. That tool has saved me a trip to the auto parts store a few times. The build quality on them is so , so. They do wear quickly and fall apart. Probably made of Chinesium.
hmm havent had any issues with my Husky branded one... use it on every oil filter i have touched in the last year and still going strong... and i see a LOT of filters....LOL
Mines a knock off, I look into getting one from Husky I like the design that much!
they are like $11 at home depot... i know Mac makes a set for 3x as much as well...
I personally remove the o-ring from the filter and apply a light coating of grease to it. Lubing both sides pays off especially with diesel fuel filters where sealing can be a big issue.
Maybe I should start a thread asking the obvious questions: What is wrong with the factory filters ? In 15 years here, have never read any of the type of horror stories I have read about getting them off or other issues like driving a screwdriver thru them and such. Is it money, 'cause if it is, then why bother to spend $ 10 a quart or so for Amsoil, as many do here ? The average rider here puts probably less than 10,000 miles a year on their bike, or 2 oil changes if running the expensive oils. So if you saved even $8 on each filter that is just $16 bucks a year for peace of mind. I just don't get it.........
The reasons that might justify the option of performance filters are related to the flow and filtering ability.
When you consider a few microns particles bigger that ideal that are retained or keep messing around, you might want to do something.
How that is important?
I have always understood that the reasons people go for an aftermarket filter is not so much performance related as it is cost and ease of availability. And/or they don't want to buy them from a dealer for various reasons.
Back in the days of real muscle cars (pre-'73) every FRAM, NAPA, you name the brand, oil filter printed words on the filter to the effect of...
"Hand tighten until snug, tighten an additional 1/4 turn by hand".
There has never been the need to use a wrench to install a new canister oil filter.
And this technique still works great today. A canister filter gasket is going to expand and seat as the motor heats up. Why you MUST wipe a film of oil on the gasket before installation and use a filter wrench to remove same.
Most filters I've seen are marked 3/4 turn after gasket contact. The BMW OE (-845) is marked 1/2 turn
All my life I've done 3/4 turn and never had any leakage or removal issues.
Lubing the seal with fresh oil being part of the procedure.
When I am faced with a tight filter installed by someone else, applying a steady even torque and holding it for up to 10-15 seconds is very effective. Suddenly the filter will start to turn slowly. If reefed too hard initially the chance of stripping increases dramatically.
The above applies to fasteners as well.
He's right you know...
K&N was acquired by a large companyand the supplier changed some time ago. Not the same quality they were, by all accounts.
Won't fit with 1200gs 05, I have the same one. I use oil filter cup wrench (had to buy them on ebay) and torque to spec.