Please Help: Power Relay Fuse Blowing

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by RiotPat, Sep 10, 2012.

  1. RiotPat

    RiotPat Long timer

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    I’ll try to be brief and give only the relevant points.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    I have a 2011 990 Adv Dakar Edition with exactly 6,910 miles on it. I purchased it new in 8/11<o:p></o:p>
    At about 4,400 miles, the power relay fuse would randomly blow, killing the bike. This happened maybe 4 times. It seemed to happen most often on hard accelerations or anything that jarred the bike like a large pothole or when bringing the front down after a wheelie ;)<o:p></o:p>
    At first, I would simply replace the fuse and be on my way. However, there was one time when this did not work. I would put a fuse in, and the moment I turned the key the fuse would blow (obviously short). <o:p></o:p>
    I searched the internet, but did not find much. I stripped off all of the body work and visually inspected all of the wiring to see if something was chaffed or pinged. I could find nothing. I put the bike back together and low and behold the bike was fine. I didn’t know what I did, but whatever it was the fuse no longer blew. So, I started riding it again. <o:p></o:p>
    I recently took about a 1000 mile trip with the wife. Bike ran flawlessly. On my way home, the same thing happened when I was within 10 miles of getting home (thankfully not 400 miles away on the dirt roads of Maine). I dropped the skid plate, and opened the battery tray (while waiting for a tow). I then closed the battery tray and bolted up the skid plate. I replaced the fuse and it started just fine.<o:p></o:p>
    The bike is currently starting\running just fine. However, I am reluctant to take it out again until I find out definitively what is causing the short circuit. <o:p></o:p>
    Any wisdom from the forum would be greatly appreciated. <o:p></o:p>
    #1
  2. RiotPat

    RiotPat Long timer

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    Bump, :jump
    Nearly 100 views and no responses so I'm guessing this is a fairly uncommon issue.

    I was hoping to leave on a few day ride with friends tomorrow, but not sure I should take the bike out not knowing what caused my problem.

    Hoping to get a few more eyes on this post.

    Thanks for reading! :clap
    #2
  3. AdvGa

    AdvGa Long timer

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    #3
  4. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    Should be relatively easy to find the short...battery to relay...relay operated by ignition switch. Wire fatigue is common, check wires around tripple clamp.
    #4
  5. Flinthillsflyer

    Flinthillsflyer Humble Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2011
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    Location:
    Kansas Flatland
    My 2005 Adventure had a short in the wiring loom right under the top triple clamp. The harness was rubbing the underside of the triple clamp and shorting the ignition wire out. Check the main (big) wiring loop to see if there is any rubbed spots. Mine would short out as soon as I would go full lock on the steering at slow speed. Hope you find the short, as it can be very bothersome.
    #5
  6. RoaldW

    RoaldW n00b

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    Mar 4, 2014
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    Doha,Qatar
    just got my KTM 990 Dakar edition a few weeks back.
    blown the fuse on three occasions,. luckily first time (high revving) in the dirt 2 hr out of town but able to find the cause,second time just replaced the fuse

    now yesterday again but in town,. and as mentioned keeps on tripping the fuse on the moment I turn the key.

    any help and or tips are highly appreciated
    #6
  7. BykBoy

    BykBoy Meshuganeh

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2003
    Oddometer:
    583
    Location:
    Reston, VA
    Same symptoms on my 2011 Dakar Edition with 12,000 miles.

    1. Took the ignition switch apart and it looks fine.
    2. Inspected ignition wire and they all look fine.
    3. Inspected loom behind the triple and it looks fine.
    4. Inspected all relays (the four under the left side panel and the one behind the battery on the right side) and they look fine.
    5. Inspected all fuel pump and fuel sender wires and the look fine.
    6. Inspected wires to ABS that go on the left side and they look fine.

    and still looking ....

    :kboom
    #7
  8. FakeName

    FakeName Wile E Coyote SuperGenius

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    Having a similar problem, watching your progress, and will report mine.

    Thanks for posting.
    #8
  9. daiberl

    daiberl Adventurer

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    May 27, 2013
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    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Looks like I have the same problem since yesterday, did you find the problem?
    #9
  10. FakeName

    FakeName Wile E Coyote SuperGenius

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    I didn't but I'm thrilled to report my dealer did.

    Some wire near the rear cylinder head rubbed through the insulation. They were able to duplicate the fuse blowing and everything. Apparently (I've not checked) they rerouted and taped the wire.

    Bike has been to Baja a few times since, no worries.
    #10
  11. renogeorge

    renogeorge Let's ride!!

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    Crash bar mounting frame clamps seem to be a common problem where a wire is captured by the clamp and shorted to the frame. Yet another reason to avoid crashbars.....

    Oh yeah, not to be a wiseass, but fuses don't just get tired and blow on their own. They are telling you that there is a SHORT. Think burned up bike!!!

    FWIW
    #11
  12. CoyoteFire

    CoyoteFire n00b

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    Renogeorge, I would like to give you a big shout out and thank you very much. My 2013 990 Baja comes with crashbars as part of the limited edition package. A wiring harness was crimped flat and shorted out on the rear hinging
    crashbar clamp. I was broken down last weekend for four hours on McClure pass in Colorado. A passerby adventure motorcyclist stopped to help me. He said "What do you want to do?". I said "I want to take my motorcycle apart".
    After removing the crashbars, gas tanks, etc., I could not find the short that had caused me to go through two spare 10 AMP fuses. I had two fuses left, one being my head lights. We put the bike back together and I told my new
    friend that I would hitchhike back to Carbondale (no cell service). May as well burn out another fuse just in case I wiggled the right wire. Started up and I was off. Through Aspen back over Independence pass sweating every mile
    to eventually make it back to Salida. I did not realize that a wiring harness was crimped in that hinge until I read your post. Thanks Again! 20150929_183241.jpg
    #12
  13. NeptuneTriton

    NeptuneTriton Been here awhile

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    May 21, 2013
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    413
    Location:
    Washington State
    Yep, that crashbar pinch claims a lot of victims!! There's a thin wire (Lambda Sensor/O2 sensor) that runs up the frame on the left side of the bike, where the rear portion of the crash bar clamps to the frame. You have to make a conscious effort every time you mount the crash bars not to get that wire caught in the clamp. If you get it caught, the insulation will rub through and you'll start blowing fuses. Ask me how I know :)

    http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/lambda-sensor-is-it-needed.987158/
    #13
  14. groovyspuds

    groovyspuds Adventurer

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    Sep 11, 2012
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    69
    Location:
    The PNW
    Just gonna mention that one. It seems like the tell tale difference is if the instrument cluster is powered. Most often if the instrument cluster has power it's the crash bars, if not it's the head tube wires. Had 'em both. I also had the rubbed through wire that went to the coolant temp probe on the rear cylinder. Doesn't kill the bike but makes it run like crap. (Makes the ECU think the motor is cold so runs it super rich).
    #14