Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by JRWooden, May 6, 2012.
The charging system using all the same parts so there won't be any difference whatsover.
I realize it's the same but the 800 does run hotter.
Bike-09 F650GS with 41k miles on it
Like I posted earlier I had noticed my volts had suddenly dropped from the 14.1-14.3 range to 13.4-13.8 while riding. This was the day after I had come home from a 2K mile trip. The last day of the trip was spent on the freeway making time in the 80-85mph range for several hundred miles. Wonder if that contributed to the stators demise.
I have another trip planned in a couple weeks so instead of waiting for it to completely crap out I wanted to replace it sooner rather than later. There is no way I'm paying BMW's bloated price so I ordered a Ric's stator. I was hoping it would arrive before this long weekend but it won't arrive until Tuesday.
I didn't want to ride the GS with it not charging properly and my K bike needs a back tire that I haven't gotten around to ordering yet. So since I have nothing to ride I decided this morning to go ahead and pull the stator off of the GS. Compared to most of the pictures I have seen of stators pulled out of the F bikes mine likes great. It doesn't work right, but it isn't all burned up either. I am positive that is only because I have had a volt meter on my bike since it was new and noticed immediately the change in charging volts.
Heres some pic's of my not yet crispy stator.
The only pieces that had come off of the stator.
This is the only visible damage I can see. The coating burned off one coil.
And just in case someone is wondering what kind of voltmeter I have been using its this. An Escort Passport 8500 X50 set to voltmeter. Thats right the Escort is only a voltmeter and I never ever use it as a radar detector.
Dang I forgot my beltronics does that too and I completely forgot.
Sent from my iPhone
The local salesman for Motorrad rang me a couple of days ago (we're friends...yes I do to have one) and related the story of a local that the salesman says is "the only other guy I know who rides where you do on a BMW", which isn't really any sort of endorsement...but...anyway, this bloke took his F800 on the Canning Stock Route recently and the stator failed and stranded him.
$2400 later he had the bike going again.
Apparently he dropped in to the show room on his return and had a frothing at the mouth rant about what utter pieces of shit BMWs bikes are, and how their spare parts prices are ridiculous...etc etc.
It'd be interesting to find out who he was. Because if it's who I think it is, he lurks here often. Be nice to hear his side of the story.
Old mate, the salesman, just let him vent and shrugged. Luck of the draw he says.
Oh how I laughed.
This is pretty much a known failure point now, I'd probably fit a new stator or bring a spare if I had more than 30k on the bike and wanted to do the CSR or Simpson Crossing etc....
Is $2400 just the parts cost in OZ or did that include a tow out? :eek1
I'm assuming it was a recovery job.
From the description of the visit, the guy was livid.
I have to laugh at the salesman though, he just recommends they buy a KTM and moves to the next target.
He's learning. He recently sold his R1200GS after trying to take it down some of the trails I gave him GPS logs for. Says he got sick of trying to turn around half way up or down a ridiculous climb. Needed a proper bike. I recommended a 690R for what he wants to do.
Getting a bike that fits what you do exactly is no easy task. You pick one, and then change what you want it to do.
Ugh. This is my failed stator.
Have the engine open now, having received the upgraded BMW parts. Sure would be easier to do this job if I just replaced the stator but my mechanic said to do both the stator and rotor, as they're probably matched.
So, now I'm looking for a Loctite or Permatex product similar to Loctite 648, which I need for the rotor, according to my Haynes manual. (Apparently 648 is no longer, and 620 is the replacement)
I'm assuming you paid for these parts yourself (out of warranty) some ~$900 USD?
Make SURE you got the latest parts.
Here is picture of new vs. old flywheel design.
The new one is on the left and is ventalated so as to keep stator from burning up.
If you have the new one I recommend you do go to the extra trouble of installing it!
If you have the old one I'd trot back to the parts window and demand the good stuff!
Yes, I paid out of pocket.
No idea where your pictures are but here's my new unit.
I managed to find Loctite 620 in town, but ended up with far more than I'll ever need, for $30.
My rotor was a real bugger to remove, even with the BMW tool. I was heating up the hub as described in the manual, with an electric heat gun and the tool would tighten to the point of buggering up the thread on the end of it, but still it wouldn't budge so I got out the propane torch.
I didn't like having to use an open flame but I was getting desperate at that point. But it worked anyway! I was tightening down the tool and finally I heard a crack, and the rotor started to move.
The rotor really is much more open, so hopefully I won't need to go through this again, on this bike anyway.
Here's a comparison of the new and old rotors.
Old on the left/top; new on the right/bottom.
Sorry I pasted a link in there ... I SWEAR I did..............
but yeah you have the new "ventilated" flywheel and FWIW, I think that probably will fix the "cooked" stator issue.
To my tired eyes that appears to be a major component change due to an engineering flaw. I can only wish that there had been a "recall" on the rotor. Obviously BMW sees it as an issue for the failed stators.
I wound up having to replace my voltage regulator also.
My gauges would go out at random and I couldn't find out why. I finally got around to hooking up my Radar Detector and when the gauges went out my Visual Alert went nuts. I looked down and it read "HI VOLT". Fawk. So I go home grab the voltage meter from the drawer. It was sending around 18 to 20 volts into the battery :eek1
No wonder my battery shorted out a while back
I have recently voted for no fail for 40K-60K. In to the 2000km of my estimated 12K EU+Morocco tour, at 72K on the clock, charging started to fail. My recebntly installed voltmeter showed below 13 when I slow down somewhere in Montenegro I guess. When I reved up it would go back to 14.1. If it was above 14V I could turn on my additional 2*55W lights, no problemo it would stay up. If I slow down and let the voltage drop to 12.8 and turn the lights on, no matter how much I rev up, it would not go up. Then I had to disconnect the low beam to prevent the battery from draining when driving in the city. Finaly now, I cannot even turn the hi beam on even revved up. It bearly keeping it up over 3Krpm with no lights. The mechanic of BMW in Budapest said it was normal. There was no arguing with him so I left. I thougt I could fänd the parts in Frankfurt. Nope. They would not have either in stock. He says Munich is 3 hour drive. However, it was yesterday, today they are closed because of the national holiday some sort. Tomorrow I will let you know the verdict if I can find another internet cafe on the way. I am travelling low tech and have no mobil phone or tablet PC. Internet cafes are hard to find here. I just did not need the half of my already low vacation fund ripped off by BMW. I how it is the regulator as I suspected at the beginning but not any more. (Keboard is Q but it is germanized, sorry for any funky spalling or characters. If the verdict is the bad alternator you can take one from no failure to one fail.
I have bad alternator. One phase no output, 2nd one 13V the third one is 14V. it is 600€ plus about 200€ labour. Ouch!. Part is less expensive in this country but that is compansated by expensive labour. So no matter what I am about to be raped by BMW. As the saying in Turkish (may be translated from another language) "If the rape (getting off course) is inevitable, you might as well enjoy it!"´I am trying but getting raped and having to fork out 800€ for it is making it impossible.The guy said with a poor English that he changed 3-4 of them recently at around this Km on them. And they did not have the parts. They have to order it from a wharehouse in som other citi and I have to stay here for another day. How can I now convince my people that I am here because I have to, not because I am having fun on the octoberfest with drunken ladies. By the way, As the bussiness are running away from the USA, binge drinking seems to running away from the collage fraternities to the Octoberfest in Munich. Population of American youth tops the Italian.
Stock stator died at 20,788 miles. Not a dramatic failure, the old stator didn't burn up, but it's quite dead. Replaced with new ElectroSport unit, which cost $218 with shipping - quite a bit more reasonable than the $953 plus tax and shipping that BMW is now charging (US$ exchange rates) to replace their badly designed part. Will report here if/when the ElectroSport part fails.
BTW I ride most of the time in cold/wet weather (have never ridden this bike in what I would call hot weather), often at pretty moderate revs (90% in the 2800-4000 rpm range), but this unit failed earlier than most. After the first 20 miles on the new stator, the alternator cover was hot enough to be boiling off the rain falling on it. Just an observation.
20K? Was the warranty up based on time?
If someone knows how, they can change my vote from no failure to "failed at 20-40k. My first F8GS, long ago sold, had its stator fail last week. The owner is afraid of computers and not on this forum.
I felt bad for the guy as he lives a cool life style that leaves him no major repair money, so I rewound his alternator myself. We will see how long this one lasts but I'm betting forever as I used magnet wire with an operating range beyond the flash point of the oil lol.
But do change my vote if possible as it is now most definantly incorrect.
Just curious what is considered the normal lifespan of the average motorcycle stator?
I the idiot that "started" this Poll/Thread, and I'll be damned if I see any way to update votes....
If someone can tell me how to do it, I have several votes that need to be re-cast...
In OTHER news... my OEM stator now has 30K miles on it... and I have a 6K mile trip planed for this summer...
I have a new side cover gasket on hand in case I need it and plan go inspect it soon.... I want to install the CE 605 SB regulator so as to quit burning up my stator and also to raise charging voltage to better value (I have the old crappy lower voltage R/R), and maybe replace OEM stator if it looks bad.... (likely would use the Electrosport unit).
Joel: if you have a second, I have an Electrical Engineer friend with Oscope (and maybe Harmonic Analyzer) that has agreed to help me test out and post results of the series unit - give a shout here or PM me with any data you think should be captured!
PS: Here's the regulator I'm thinking about: