PORKANDCORN: A Man & His Duck Explore South America

Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by porkandcorn, Jan 6, 2013.

  1. GISdood

    GISdood Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    803
    Location:
    Prince George, BC
    Great pics and narrative, Fritz. I'm envious of your travel and locale while the snow piles up in the yard, here... Keep up the good work!
    #61
  2. porkandcorn

    porkandcorn FortesFortunaAdiuvat

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    it was hard to leave punta del diablo. i could have easily stayed there for another week or month. there was a big thunderstorm the night before i left that kept me awake in my luxury shack.

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    playa do los pescadores, punta del diablo, uruguay by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    chillin' in the hood, punta del diablo, uruguay by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    after the storm, i went for a walk on the beach at about 3am. i found a strange bio-luminescent bug on the beach and he told me it was time to go. always moving onto the next place, eager to explore and see what i can get myself into...

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    strange luminescent bug i found on the beach, punta del diablo, uruguay by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    i was talking to some argentines, who feel that americans spend too much time traveling from place to place, and not enough time hunkered down in one spot, enjoying it. i understand the sentiment, but this trip is to see a continent as best i can in 4 months. to do that, you must keep moving, even when you'd prefer to stay put. so it was with a heavy heart that i tossed the gear back on the bike and left punta at a bright and early 2pm.

    before i left town, i stopped by to say goodbye to my new friends at the arrai beach bar. they were good to me while i was there, and made me feel at home. they always had good music, and my caipirinhas were always tasty and strong. they decided that i should have a ceremonial piece of corn to pay homage to my 'porkandcorn' riding name, as well as hold the official beach bar sign. what?! - no pork!!!??? if i were on facebook, i would friend you guys, but i'm one of the only 4 or 5 americans who are not on facebook. so i linked to your twitter page above. stay in touch and nacho, i want you to email me your music playlist... or else!!

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    arrai beach bar advertisement, punta del diablo, uruguay by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    so then it was back on the road and a 30 minute drive to the brazilian border. switching into portugues proved trickier than i thought, because at the border i seemed to always default to spanish. with time. i just have to pause a moment before i speak to switch the brain over - that is not something i am used to doing when speaking portuguese. funny to think that i learned portugues 10 years ago, and that 10 years ago exactly at this time, i was living in florianopolis, brazil for the year. time flies when you are having fun. i'm excited for my return and to see my old friends from that time.

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    brazil border, chuy, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    another immigration, chuy, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    farmland, curral alto, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    farmland, curral alto, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    once in brazil, i rode up BR471, a rural two-lane road through lush green and yellow-green fields dotted with cows. in one stretch, there was a nature preserve for capybara, pig sized rodents that are native to south america. as, advertised they were hanging out on the road size and in the river that ran along the road. for an enormous rodent, they are pretty cute.

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    capybura as advertised, taim, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    capybury, taim, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    the immigration officials back at the border told me to be careful driving in this park, because the capybara are always on the road and getting hit by cars and trucks. thankfully, one of them got plowed over and its skin was left behind so that i could capture it's decomposing cuteness in all it's glory. they seem pretty stupid. when i pull up along side them on the road, they would freeze and pretend they weren't there. but i knew they were because i am not a stupid, pig-sized rodent. i chased a couple down to get a close up, but they made a goofy noise and ran away from me. might have been the klim riding suit and the bright yellow helmet...

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    decomposing capybura, farmland, taim, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    after about a 5 hour road day, i didn't feel like staying in an inland city yet, so i wandered out to the beach again - to praia do cassino, brazil. it's a family holiday spot were thousands of poeple roam the main drag at night, walking back and forth, eating street food, sitting in lawn chairs, while packs of samba drum troops roam the streets. it was interesting to walk back and forth a couple times.

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    nighttime streets, praia do cassino, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    the diversity of people in brazil is greater - there are whites, blacks, browns, and one red (me with sunburn from punta d. diablo). it's easier to blend in here, and that makes life just a hair easier for me. i don't care how confident you are - if people stare at you 24/7, it begins to wear on your after a while.

    the internet on the expansive front patio of the hotel was calling me, as i had some research to do regarding my riding through the coastal mountains for the next couple of days. excited about the roads, and the little towns i'll find along the way. brazilians are very warm people. it's good to be back here, and i'm excited for the next couple of weeks that i'll be here.
    #62
  3. porkandcorn

    porkandcorn FortesFortunaAdiuvat

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    i've started using the motorcycle to my advantage. before i was fully ready to go, i pulled the bike out from it's overnight parking spot up in front of the hotel. so while i was packing, a steady stream of onlookers were gawking at the machine. by the time i drug my duffle bag out of the hotel room, there were 3 dudes hanging out by the bike, eager to find out what country the oregon plates were from. now, when i pull into a town, i just go to the main drag before i look for a hotel, and hang out in my riding gear for a while until people come up and tell me where to stay, what restaurants to eat at, etc. it's proving much easier than my previous methods.

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    hotel cassino, praia da cassino, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    one of the guys at the hotel, who happens to own a hyabusa 1300, gave me some outstanding advice on my current route in the mountains of southern brazil. he also let me know that i could ride along the beach for 10 miles to get to my ferry in rio grande, brazil - as opposed to a boring trucking road that i would have otherwise taken. it was a nice surprise to start the day out with - thanks to mario - who happened to be riding by on his bicycle when i was stopped to take a photo. pretty fun to ride the hard packed sand, swerving away from the waves as they ran up to, and at times, engulfed the road.

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    sand road along the beach, praia da cassino, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    thanks for the tip, praia da cassino, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    i made it to rio grande to find the ferry at 10am, and was disappointed to be told the ferry didn't leave until 2pm. i was hoping to have a long day of riding, and that would seriously cut it short. the lesson learned many times before is to never just ask one person's opinion, and don't take no for an answer. i asked 3 more people, and finally, someone said - "oh, you have a motorcycle - well there's a pedestrian ferry leaving in a half hour and they take motorcycles on the front of the boat!" so i quickly went off to find the place to buy the ticket, and then was loading the tiger onto the bow of the boat. i had to pop off my touratech zega pro cases to squeeze through the tiny gate on the boat, but it fit.

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    ferry to sao jose do norte, rio grande, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    on the boat, i met a really nice guy, mauro, who lives in rio grande, but was taking the ferry over to sao jose do norte to have lunch at his favorite seafood restaurant. we talked for the 30 minute passage across the water, and he invited me to have lunch with him. while i was off-loading the bike, he went and got a table at the very busy locals-favorite eatery. fresh fish fillet with a shrimp sauce. yum.

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    after lunch at brisamar restaurant, sao jose do norte, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    then it was off to ride north through a very remote area and i had to make sure my tank and reserve tank were both full. it was about a 2.5 hour ride to capao da canoa, brazil, the overnight spot recommended by mauro or maybe someone else. beautiful lush fields, more capybara, lots of sea birds, and a section of road about 50 km long with pot-holes that could seriously ruin my entire adventure. it was a bit like playing frogger - my full attention was devoted to not hitting capybara, ducking behind the windshield for birds scared up by the engine, dodging potholes, and eventually, getting caught in a massive downpour that put the klim badlands goretex riding gear to the test. (dry as a bone after 2 hours in heavy rain.)

    capao da canoa was also getting hammered by the rainstorm when i pulled into town. but again, the bike helped me find a place to sleep for the night. i got it parked in the hotel owner's private garage, and then ventured out to find a bite to eat. brazilians are afraid of the rain. the streets were packed with people, caught and huddled under very minimal cover wherever it could be found. maybe it melts them? anyway, this pacific northwesterner just walked down the street like it was a sunny day, getting stares of wonderment from the rain-averse brasileiros. i found a place to get some food, and met some dudes on holiday from porto alegre, brazil.

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    downpour in capao da canoa, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    dudes, capao da canoa, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    scuba-moto-duck, capao da canoa, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    the next morning, i headed inland from the coast to explore the mountains of rio grande do sul state, famous for canyons, waterfalls, and really fun twisty roads. i had one good climb, but there are never any vista points and no shoulders, so you'll have to take my word that it was amazing. eventually, i reached the top of the plateau, and the scenery turned to rolling hills, and ancient remnants of mountains.

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    looking west, terra da areia, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    looking west, terra da areia, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    rota do sol near tainhas, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    hills at 3000 ft, sao francisco de paula, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    hills at 3000 ft, sao francisco de paula, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    caracol falls, canela, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    at about 4pm, i was tired of riding and just pulling into gramado, brazil - a really beautiful city with strong german heritage. there is an incredible view of the quilombo valley from many parts of the town. i found a hotel that seemed like it had the best view, and went in only expecting to have a look and go find a cheap pousada (guest house) for the night. i told the guys at the front desk about my trip, and asked them what their best deal was for me. they came down from 300.00 USD a night to 60.00 USD a night - i'm on the top floor and here's the view from my balcony:

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    view of quilombo valley from hotel tuscana, gramado, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    tomorrow will be a really beautiful day of riding, as i only scratched the surface of what the area has to offer today. i'm hoping to make it to florianopolis sometime wednesday afternoon, so i have a couple of days to kill up here checking out the great roads and great views.
    #63
  4. BobB

    BobB Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 16, 2009
    Oddometer:
    29
    Greetings again from Iowa. I'm enjoying the photos and stories a lot.

    Keep living the dream and thanks for taking the rest of us along with your posts.
    #64
  5. CA_Rage

    CA_Rage Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    85
    Location:
    Bay Area - CA
    Yo PORKANDCORN.
    Rage here, enjoying the trip with you!
    I'm a friend of Bears from CA.
    We spoke a bit through Skype a few weeks back.
    Nice work on keeping us couch riders up to speed with your adventures.
    Keep em coming!

    :super
    #65
  6. jimmex

    jimmex Guero con moto

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2003
    Oddometer:
    2,917
    Location:
    West Texas
    Excellent RR! Really enjoying your experience vicariously.
    #66
  7. porkandcorn

    porkandcorn FortesFortunaAdiuvat

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    thanks everybody. knowing that you are enjoying the report makes the effort put into it worthwhile. i'll keep it up.
    #67
  8. Rockaway

    Rockaway Gregtiger800

    Joined:
    May 6, 2012
    Oddometer:
    88
    Location:
    Oregon
    Greetings from Beavertown... Been following you for quite awhile. Just found your report on ADV. forum. A few of us were talking about you at the last TRAP meeting breakfast. Gods speed on your trip. Noticed the dog tags on one of your pics. Which branch of service were you in?? Thank you for serving! Ride safe!

    Greg


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    #68
  9. bESS

    bESS Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2008
    Oddometer:
    304
    Location:
    wet coast, bc
    Fritz:

    I've been following you since your BC-Alberta shakedown ride and farkling of your Tiger

    great photos. thought I should check in to let you know


    bob
    #69
  10. aviatorbdm

    aviatorbdm Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    108
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    Oregon
    subscribed... go fellow Oregonian.
    #70
  11. nevermind

    nevermind sLOW Rider

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,084
    Location:
    knee deep
    A Man & His Duck Explore South America

    I broke into a sly grin when I saw the title. WTH!

    Duck short for Ducati? Dude nicknamed Duck? No, NOT a rubber duck!

    Now, I don't think there is really anything wrong with a man traveling SA with his r.duck but I am worried about the tiger and the r.duck. I just don't want to see any unnecessary or untoward social behavior.

    Safe travels for the three of ya's... :freaky
    #71
  12. porkandcorn

    porkandcorn FortesFortunaAdiuvat

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    thanks for jumping on board everyone. for the oregonians - just for the record i am not a duck, nor a beaver fan - despite the duck tattoo and the rubber duck on the bike. i have no allegiance. i'm neutral, like switzerland.

    rockaway, pass this ride report along to the other trap rats - i didn't get a chance to put the word out before i left. and the dog tag is actually an emergency contacts/medical info tag incase things go sideways...
    #72
  13. porkandcorn

    porkandcorn FortesFortunaAdiuvat

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    tuesday, february 5, 2013

    today was interesting. i rode about 150 miles of dirt roads, with an increasingly worsening fever. not sure what i got ahold of in gramado, but my body was fighting something. i barely felt it when i left the hotel, and within 15 miles of gramado i was onto my first of many dirt roads for the day. i was winding my way north into the higher serras (hills), on my way to the famous paved twisties that wrap down the mountain between bon jardim da serra, brazil, and lauro muller, brazil. i wanted to ride some dirt, but regardless, it was the only way to get there from gramado that didn't involved oppressive truck traffic and breathing toxic exhaust for half the day.

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    day of dirt, east of canela, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    the gps was confused most of the day. the hard maps and the mapswithme iphone app proved helpful in navigating the sometimes confusing tangle of dirt roads. even with the fever getting worst, around noon i was into some really beautiful rolling high hills at about 4,000 ft. the air was colder, and it was threatening rain off and on all day. that would have really sucked in my condition. the heated warm and safe gloves were a big hit today.

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    cattle ranchers, north of lajeado grande, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    cattle ranchers, north of lajeado grande, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    around 1pm, i was really hurting. very weak and achy - not a good condition to be riding sometimes complicated dirt roads that varied from soft dirt, to rock paths, with streams running across at times.

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    twisty dirt road south of bom jesus, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    as much as i hated to do it, i made the decision at são josé dos ausentes to skip the twisties and attempt a ride back to the coast. the road north that i chose to abandone was more dirt - about 60 miles of it. i knew it wouldn't be safe. the road east toward timbé do sul, brazil appeared to be paved. well, that lovely pavement ended abruptly. i stopped, got off the bike, and was really hurting. i could tell i had a pretty bad fever - luckily none of the other bad stuff that typically comes with that, except a bit of nausea from time to time. as long as i was riding, i didn't notice the nausea - there's another thing that motorcycling cures.

    it was starting to rain, and here i am 50 miles out in the middle of nowhere, looking up a gnarly dirt road that i knew i could not pass - it was much worse that the other option, and by stopping a truck coming from that direction, i confirmed this.

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    end of the pavement, east of são josé dos ausentes by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    so all i could do was head back to the better dirt road north, keep hydrating and hope i was getting better instead of worse. i was getting worse. about 20 miles in i saw a few signs for pousadas do fazendas (farm guesthouses). i knew i had to stop riding. i picked the first one. bad choice, as the road dropped down into some very technical large rocks and boulders. after about a 1/2 mile of that, i turned around back for the main road.

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    before the fog settled, near silveira, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    the next sign was for the pousada fezendo monte negro. monte negro is the highest point in rio grande do sul state, at about 5,000 ft. by this time, the neblina (fog) was dropping in quick, and i couldn't see beyond 20 feet. it was starting to rain. pretty much a disaster scenario. luckily, the pousada was only a kilometer down the road. i pulled into what looked like something out of a weird dream. i'm sure that in the deep fog, i was an odd site. a woman came out and i explained to her, and her kids, that i was sick and wanted to stay the night. i told them that i didn't need a doctor. i was trying not to worry them.

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    pousada fazendo monte negro, monte negro, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    at about 2pm after i put my things away, i was shaking and sweating. i went to lay down, and ended up at least partially breaking my fever during 4 hours of sleep under a mountain of natural wool bedspreads. i had an odd dream in my sleep were i was riding on top of those strange trees i was seeing all day, with men on horseback chasing me.

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    araucaria tree, south of bom jesus, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    i wrote up this blog for the day while i was waiting for a home cooked meal to be prepared. chicken soup with homemade dumplings, fresh homemade bread - pretty much just what the doctor ordered. now it's about 8pm and the fever is coming back, so down the hatch with some nyquil and back to bed.
    #73
  14. porkandcorn

    porkandcorn FortesFortunaAdiuvat

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    wednesday, february 6, 2013

    woke up with almost no signs of the fever that i was suffering from the day before. had a beautiful home cooked breakfast, and set off to complete the 60 miles of dirt road to the next town, bom jardim da serra, brazil.

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    pousada fazendo monte negro, monte negro, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    chamber of redemption, pousada fazendo monte negro, monte negro, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    greeter, pousada fazendo monte negro, monte negro, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    bridge over river that divides rio grande state and santa catarena state, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    first vista in santa catarina state, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    first vista in santa catarina state, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    from there, it was about a 20 miles ride to the east until i would encounter "brazil's most beautiful road", the serra do rio do rastro.

    well, you don't always get what you want in life. after this 3 day detour to see and ride this road, the entire thing was completely closed in with fog. the descent was terrifying. worse fog than the night before up on the mountain. i literally could not see 5 feet in front of me. and there were enormous trucks going up and down. because my visor was fogging up, and i couldn't hear traffic, i took off my helmet and coasted down most of the road with my bike in neutral and the engine off. eventually, the fog lifted a bit and i suited up and fired up the bike again. i'm sure it's an amazing road if it doesn't happen to suck that day. i laughed it off with another motorcyclist i met near the bottom. he'd come from about 12 hours north in brazil to ride the road. here's a couple of shots from google.

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    serra do rio do rastro, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    serra do rio do rastro, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    came into florianopolis, brazil around 2pm today. the roads and highways are still familiar. i found my way to jureré beach on the north end of the island, my home for the next 6 days, without any maps. just like i remember it. kind of an odd feeling. i'm staying a night at one of the pousadas that my friend recommended, but i spent the afternoon looking around for something else - the owner is a bit of a bitch, and she lied to me about having accessible parking for the bike for the week. it's carnival here friday through tuesday, and everything is $$$$. found a much nicer place, for less, with very friendly owners about 8 blocks away. the next report will be from there.
    #74
  15. vintagespeed

    vintagespeed fNg

    Joined:
    May 9, 2011
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    1,889
    Location:
    Rancho Cucamonger, CA
    looking forward to some pics of carnival! one of my goals for someday. :freaky
    #75
  16. porkandcorn

    porkandcorn FortesFortunaAdiuvat

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    thursday, february 7, 2013

    music is and has always been very important to me. ever since my older brothers and sisters introduced me to reggae and blues in middle school, which led down paths to me collecting all kinds of music from all over the world - probably led me to those other parts of the world. i thought i be listening to a lot of my brazilian collection here: joao gilberto, antonio carlos jobim, sue jorge, and others. but in fact, i've been diving in the deep end of my americana collection: ray price, willie nelson, ray charles, townes van zandt, muddy waters, greg brown, lightnin' hopkins, and so many more. it's a beautiful thing how powerful music becomes when you are far away from home. it's given new life. it's takes your farther forward, farther back, and most importantly - keep you deep in the present moment. the present moment is the only moment any of us will ever have.

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    praia jureré, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    jorge ben jor, "chove chuva chove sem parar"

    funny also how much i miss the hell out of my bosch washer and dryer, which are engineered to the absolute pinnacle of german perfection. as mentioned previously, nothing i've encounter in south america is all that perfect, and there's really no need for it to be. so it's great. but after a month of carefully and dutifully washing my clothes in sinks across the continent, clean perfectly pressed clothes that don't wreak of sweat, mold, nasty beach funk, dirt, exhaust, and general BO are a pretty amazing thing. i took all my clothes to a lavanderia this morning, and they came back cleaner than i ever remember them being before in their lives. too clean, in fact.

    the tiger also got a bath today.

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    2012 triumph tiger 800 xc after first bath, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    i did some required man-scaping, went for a run and did my exercises, took my time shaving, went out to stock up on groceries for the week. these are luxuries on an adventure of this scale. and it's important to take a week or so as often as it seems necessary, in order to maintain some normality in life. the little studio room i'm living in is no bigger in total than my the guest bedroom in my condo in portland, but every inch of it is precious, organized, efficient, and appreciated. the tiny little desk is a desk. the wardrobe is full of my neatly pressed clothes. my motorcycle gear is neatly lined up in the corner. toiletries carefully laid out in on the small marble sink top. most of the days in the last months, things are tossed out where they fall, and that is pretty much all you have time for.

    good to learn and know all paths in life so that you can always move toward the center.

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    argentina, chile, uruguay, bolivia, and USA by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    friday, february 8, 2013 - first day of carnival

    for those of you looking for carnival pictures, you might have better luck with google images than with this blog. florianopolis doesn't really host a traditional carnival like you might have in your heads. the funny thing is that carnival is actually held in these weird stadiums, sambadromes, where there are massive bleachers on either side of a central 'avenue', and the samba processions move through the sambadrome. i always thought carnival was this big celebration out in the streets, which it is at time, but the ones that foreigners see on tv are the ones in the sambadromes. here, it's more big parties at big clubs.

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    sambadrome, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    it's raining gatos e cães (cats and dogs) here today, so my beach plans are for the moment not happening.

    this pousada - pousada jurerémirim - is awesome. the owners of 11 years, manon & david are extremely nice.

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    pousada jurerémirim, jureré - florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    pousada jurerémirim, jureré - florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    pousada jurerémirim, jureré - florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    there is a soccer pitch over the fence of the pousada. you can here the games every night. all these guys go play soccer until about midnight, after which i assume they go out or go home. everything happens late here. in one minute of watching and listening from the street, i remember all the bad words i was taught 10 years ago. i don't think there was a syllable uttered during the 10 minutes i watched that wasn't a profanity. it was hilarious and beautiful. the intensity and talent of this random neighborhood game was on par with any of the best soccer i've seen in the states. the pace of play was exciting. and these are just a bunch of dudes getting together to play. this continent is very, very serious about it's soccer/futbol.

    i'm feel very much at home here in brazil. it's very comfortable. remembering and using the language is second nature. it's good to be back. i'm remembering why i like this place so much last time i was here.

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    soccer pitch next to pousada jurerémirim, jureré - florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    soccer pitch next to pousada jurerémirim, jureré - florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr
    #76
  17. Lion BR

    Lion BR I'd rather be riding

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2005
    Oddometer:
    4,336
    Location:
    Oregon
    You may discover that in Florianopolis you may still find the more traditional street carnaval. [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I was there a few years ago, had a chance to enjoy the Carnaval de Rua on a very small scale, but it makes you more part of the celebration and[/FONT] it is much closer to its origins. Check the schedule for "carnaval de rua" in the villages of [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Santo Antonio de Lisboa and Sambaqui, and others I don't remember.

    Below is a photo of the setting, before the Carnaval de Rua starts (I apologize for the out of focus photo). To be honest, I don't remember what village this was... I asked people at the hotel and they offered a few options (each of the four days of Carnaval it happens on a different one of these traditional villages.
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    And later the fun starts!:evil

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    BTW I also came down that Serra do Rio do Rastro road, and it also had fog...

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    Looking back up:

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    I'm enjoying your report
    #77
  18. porkandcorn

    porkandcorn FortesFortunaAdiuvat

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    yes! i just actually found out about Santo Antonio de Lisboa today from some people on the beach1
    #78
  19. porkandcorn

    porkandcorn FortesFortunaAdiuvat

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    sunday, february 10, 2013

    right now, the protocol for everyone on this island is: wake up, go to the beach, take a 4 hour nap, go out and party hard all night until 6am - repeat, repeat, repeat. it's best to do as the locals do.

    i met a super nice couple from sao paulo, brazil who are here at the same pousada, spending carnival in floripa. vini, bruna and i have gone out a couple of times together. they are kind enough to speaking slowly and clearly for me so that i can continue to improve my portuguese.

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    vini & bruna, carnival da rua, santo antonio de lisboa, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    friday night, we went to a club called music park, which is a multi-venue complex out in the middle of nowhere on the island. we went to a show headlined by fatboy slim. made some other new friends at the show. alberto is a commissary for the venue, and liked the fact that i arrived to floripa on a motorcycle.

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    devassa/posh nightclub, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    americano divertindo, devassa/posh nightclub, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    alberto, ?, vini, bruna, e me, devassa/posh nightclub, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    i wasn't that into the DJ scene that night, and most people seemed to be just standing around looking at each other and half-assing it on the dance floor. come on people! it's carnival! put it into a lower gear and get it done!

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    butterfly dancers, devassa/posh nightclub, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    close butterfly, devassa/posh nightclub, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    saturday, during the day, i met up with my friend leila, who was the person i met 11 years ago in san francisco who told me i should visit floripa. leila is living north of the island in balneario cambourio, brazil, with her boyfriend and her 7 dogs. was really nice to see an old friend.

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    leila e me, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    i think the two twin sisters that work at the beach shack making deep fried, meat-filled pastels have a thing for me, but they don't seem like the clubbing type.

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    pastel lady, praia jurere, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    last night, i went with vini and bruna to santo antonio de lisboa, a neighborhood that is about 10 miles south of jurere. there, they host a more traditional street carnival. along the main drag, people pack the streets, waiting for this huge truck with a band on top to pass by. the truck moves at about .0001 miles per hour, that's slow. people flow around the truck as it passes, dancing to traditional songs and generally having a good time. then it gets to the end of the 4 block main drag (it's a small town), and it's over.

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    carnival da rua, santo antonio de lisboa, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    the big music truck thing, carnival da rua, santo antonio de lisboa, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    Untitled by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    people still hang out and party, but that's generally what a street carnival is like. in a bigger city, there would be more trucks, samba groups, drum groups, passing by like a parade. i met the "father of carnival". he gets the key to the city, i suppose so that for these 5 days, him and his fellow partiers can do whatever the hell they want - a "hall pass", if you will.

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    father of carnival, carnival da rua, santo antonio de lisboa, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    VIP, carnival da rua, santo antonio de lisboa, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    you think that might be enough partying for one night? no. they it was off to a masquerade party. i bought a 5.00 mask outside the venue, which i later gave away. this time, the DJ knew what he was doing, playing more diverse types of electronic/dance music. lots of beautiful people out doing their best to impress each other. it was like an episode of mutual of omaha's wild kingdom. i had a good time, and sweat clear through my jeans and shirt dancing. i literally had to wring them out in the shower when i got home at 5:30am.

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    festa de masquerade, jurere - florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    a gente boa, festa de masquerade, jurere - florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    atras, festa de masquerade, jurere - florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    fresh air, festa de masquerade, jurere - florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    then up for breakfast, and now off to a BBQ with some other old friends from 10 years ago that i haven't seen yet.

    repeat, repeat, repeat until wednesday morning when i leave for argentina and the next leg of my journey.
    #79
  20. porkandcorn

    porkandcorn FortesFortunaAdiuvat

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    monday, february 11, 2013

    another difficult day of partying as hard and a much as possible. i told manon, our pousada hostess, that i didn't know if i could do another 2 days of this - going out every night until 5am. she looked me in the eye, like a boxing coach in the corner of the ring with a badly-battered fighter. "no fritz, this is carnival," she said. "this is what you have to do." in other words, find another gear, get the job done, i don't want to hear any excuses from you.

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    brazilian flag, praia jureré, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    and then manon recited the list of all the parties that were going on in the next 24 hours - day parties, sunset parties, all-night parties, street parties, beach parties, parties where all the men dress up like women (i chose not to do this one), parties, parties, parties. and this is why all of us here at pousada jureremirim love manon - she's like a mom in that she makes sure we are all safe, comfortable, well-fed and happy. but she's a mom that wants you to party hard and have the best time that you can have. cheers to you manon!

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    manon close, pousada jureremirim, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    up at 10am this morning, still feeling the effects of an afternoon churrasco (BBQ), a house pre-party, a Jamiroquai concert, and an all-night dance-your-ass-off party the night before. you have to set your alarm or you will sleep through breakfast, which lasts until 10am. i set my alarm for 9:50am.

    my good old friend ivan, his wife and son, and their extended family had me over for a churrasco - no shortage of meat.

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    ivan the grill master, jurere - florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    ivan & arthur, jurere - florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    it's hard to think of very many things that i don't like about brazil, but i think all brazilian will agree with me that there is one thing that really sucks about brazil: impuestos! (taxes and fees). i had a package mailed to ivan's house with about 200.00 worth of stuff - running shoes, a portable computer speaker, a shirt or two, and some small stuff i needed. ivan got a slip saying that i owed an import tax/fee of $553.00 brazilian reais. that's $275.00! ouch. that hurts. obrigado brasil!

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    impuestos, thank you brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    after a 30 minute siesta, it was off to my good friend danielle's house to pre-party for jamiroquai. dani and i also met 10 years ago here in floripa. he now has a little less hair, and two beautiful daughters. they have a flat in jurere, but dani works in sao paulo during the week - commuting back and forth from the mega-city like countless thousand of other brazilians do. sao paulo is a place to work, and according to the brazilian's i've met, not a place to live if you can avoid it.

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    at daniel's house, jurere - florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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    brazilian ruffles, jurere - florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    after a quick video chat with my good friend preston from portland, it was off to the club. the place was completely packed. i used to work in concert promotion and i'd estimate there were 20,000 people there. it was sardine city. gustavo (a friend of dani's and my compañero for the night) and i opted for more space, and decided to camp out at the after party spot and dance in the fresh air without getting stepped on every 5 seconds.

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    jamiroquai, music park, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    i'm a fanatic for really dark, multi-rhythmic electronic dance music. i can't stand normal club "house" music. the dj in the back party area was my kind of guy. dj juciano rosa was a master of more minimal styles of electronica. i headed right for the front of the dance floor to earn my keep.

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    dj juciano rosa, pacha club, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    i'm a big guy, and some might think a bit old at 36 to go "clubbing" like this. but this white boy earned his place on that dance floor, and eventually a spot up behind the DJ in the VIP backstage area. with so many people staring around trying to pick each other up, i think some people appreciate a man who is there to dance.

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    backstage VIP, pacha club, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    i haven't danced that hard in years. i was completed soaked when i left - for a second nigh in a row. gustavo - thanks for the company. we were a good team out there. valeo, cara. fue show!

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    gustavo, the party animal, pacha club, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    these guys needed a pep-talk from manon...

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    too many parties, pacha club, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    today after breakfast i spent the day on the beach with vini, bruna, and another couple from the pousada - mariana and raphael. praia do forte is on the northwest tip of the island, about a 30 minute walk west on jurere beach. it sits underneath an old 15th century fort that used to protect the island in the good ol' days.

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    vista from fortaleza of praia jureré, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    i was busy applying sunscreen all day, trying not to turn into a lobster. i succeeded, except for the top of my left foot is cooked.

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    chillin' na praia, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

    there was a really nice family sitting next to us that we spent some time talking to as well. they asked for the blog address so they could read about my adventure. many people seem to be genuinely interested in following along - seeing where i have been and where i will be going.

    i'm not sure, but i think i heard the big guy on the end referred to as "camarão," possibly because of the excellent sun-burn that he had achieved on the beach that day. i will always remember him fondly as 'the big shrimp.'

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    novos amigos, praia do forte, florianopolis, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr
    #80