Powerbooster replacement on an ABS/AWD car. HELP!!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by hardwaregrrl, Oct 5, 2012.

  1. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    So, my booster on my 03 Pontiac Aztek (stop laughing) went out. So I thought I'd try and replace it. Well, all is good except my car is thowing the ABS/AWD code after I drive the car for a bit. The pedal travel is a little different, so I'm going to bleed the system again...wondering if air in the line would trigger the code. I will say this car has all sorts of weird electrical shit going on, stupid computers. But cannot imagine this is a coincidence. I did have to remove the ABS module to get to the stinkin' booster. Electrical and hydraulic.

    Just wondering if its a BS dealer code thing after booster replacement...or if I screwed something up?
    #1
  2. what car??

    what car?? down the road

    Joined:
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    "'03 Pontiac Aztek'"

    That's your first problem! :rofl

    Ok had to do it.... Seriously though! Who even drives those things and why were they built in the first place???

    Moving on..... Check all the connectors and make sure you plugged everything in. You can try to re-bleed the system, starting from the farthest wheel going to the closest. If that doesn't work, try doing it while the engine is running. I've never liked GM products period! But least of all their abs systems... Also check all the wheel sensors to see if any of them have suffered any damage or somehow were unplugged while you were bleeding the system. If you're still running into issues, take the negative battery cable off the battery and hold the brake pedal down for 30 seconds. Reattach the cable and start the thing. See if that eliminates the light.

    When you drive does the abs not work? Since you're having issues with all the electronics in the system might I suggest when you resolve this one to get rid of that hunk o' junk. Get an import, much better vehicles in general and higher resale value. American vehicles IMO suck, that is why I don't own them (well don't own a vehicle period anymore). I was an auto tech for more than a decade. When it is time to buy a vehicle again :cry, I most definitely will not be buying an American made vehicle!!!

    Oh, and good on you for getting your hands dirty and trying to figure things out yourself!!! I dig it when chicks don't mind getting their hands dirty.
    #2
  3. Dave in Wi

    Dave in Wi Long timer

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    So there you have the insult, genuine advice, and leg hump, all on one post. You're good to go. :-)
    #3
  4. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    :rofl Ha, ha....me likey.

    So yeah, the car is goofy but far from a hunk of junk. Musta been made on a Wednesday. I'm from Detroit, Dad and step dad all worked for GM (Chevy to be exact), I needed a new car and could get the family discount. I've owned the car since zero miles and I have to say, it hasn't left me stranded but once....fuel pump at 100K. Since 100K some stuff started to shit the bed. I'm self employed..barely so it was time for me to fix the car. I've replaced front control arms and ball joints, CV half shaft on both sides, wheel hubs, new stabilizer bars, linkage and bushings, and now the booster. I work in construction and the back seats are never in the car, this sucker hauls and holds a shit ton of crap. I feel like if it didn't have all of this electrical shit it would be a pretty damn good car. So I'd like to keep it and continue to maintain and repair it until I find a mid 80's 4 runner I can afford.:D

    I didn't touch the wheel sensors...car is high enough I can bleed the front with the wheels on, I jacked the back up wheels off.....there is one plug under the left side rear door that I believe might be the culprit. But I'll try the reset with the neg bat cable and on the brake. Thanks for that......and it really has been a good car and I drive it like I ride my airhead.....hard.!!! Haven't tried to lock the wheels to see if the ABS is defunct....I'll find a safe spot to check that out. Sucks because when the ABS code goes on, so does the AWD code. thx
    #4
  5. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Pressure)

    Tools Required

    <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>• </TD><TD vAlign=top>J 29532 Diaphragm Type Brake Pressure Bleeder, or equivalent</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
    <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>• </TD><TD vAlign=top>J 35589-A Master Cylinder Bleeder Adapter</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>​
    Warning! Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Caution in the Preface section.
    Caution!When adding fluid to the brake master cylinder reservoir, use only Delco Supreme 11®, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. The use of any type of fluid other than the recommended type of brake fluid, may cause contamination which could result in damage to the internal rubber seals and/or rubber linings of hydraulic brake system components.

    Caution! Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in the Preface section.
    1. Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
    2. With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
    3. If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>3.1. </TD><TD vAlign=top>Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary, add Delco Supreme 11®, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>​

      If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>3.2. </TD><TD vAlign=top>With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>3.3. </TD><TD vAlign=top>Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>3.4. </TD><TD vAlign=top>Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>3.5. </TD><TD vAlign=top>Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>3.6. </TD><TD vAlign=top>Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>3.7. </TD><TD vAlign=top>Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>3.8. </TD><TD vAlign=top>Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3-3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>3.9. </TD><TD vAlign=top>With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3-3.8.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>​

      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>3.10. </TD><TD vAlign=top>After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
    4. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with Delco Supreme 11®, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.
    5. Install the J 35589-A to the brake master cylinder reservoir.
    6. Check the brake fluid level in the J 29532 , or equivalent. Add Delco Supreme 11®, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container as necessary to bring the level to approximately the half-full point.
    7. Connect the J 29532 , or equivalent, to the J 35589-A .
    8. Charge the J 29532 , or equivalent, air tank to 175-205 kPa (25-30 psi).
    9. Open the J 29532 , or equivalent, fluid tank valve to allow pressurized brake fluid to enter the brake system.
    10. Wait approximately 30 seconds, then inspect the entire hydraulic brake system in order to ensure that there are no existing external brake fluid leaks.Any brake fluid leaks identified require repair prior to completing this procedure.
    11. Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
    12. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
    13. Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with Delco Supreme 11®, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
    14. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit. Allow fluid to flow until air bubbles stop flowing from the bleeder, then tighten the bleeder valve.
    15. With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
    16. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 13-14.
    17. With the left front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the left front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
    18. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 13-14.
    19. With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve
    20. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 13-14.
    21. After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.
    22. Close the J 29532 , or equivalent, fluid tank valve, then disconnect the J 29532 , or equivalent, from the J 35589-A .
    23. Remove the J 35589-A from the brake master cylinder reservoir.
    24. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with Delco Supreme 11®, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
    25. Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.ImportantIf it is determined that air was induced into the system upstream of the ABS modulator prior to servicing, the Antilock Brake System Automated Bleed Procedure must be performed.
    26. If the brake pedal feels spongy, perform the following steps:
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>26.1. </TD><TD vAlign=top>Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection .</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>26.2. </TD><TD vAlign=top>Using a scan tool, perform the antilock brake system automated bleeding procedure to remove any air that may have been trapped in the brake pressure modulator valve (BPMV). Refer to Antilock Brake System Automated Bleed Procedure .</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>​
    27. Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.ImportantDO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.
    28. If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes .
    #5
  6. Mgbgt89

    Mgbgt89 Long timer

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    #6
  7. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    Awww....shit. Thanks....at least I can just take it to the shop and have them bleed it...shouldn't cost an arm and a leg to do that?:norton
    #7
  8. Foot dragger

    Foot dragger singletracker

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2006
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    Location:
    chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
    If it was easy,everybody would be out laying under their cars working on them. Older cars I can fix and know whats going on.
    Newer ones I wouldnt think of it,not designed to be fixed,more so to be traded in.

    Best of luck.

    (Do you park that thing in your own driveway,or down the street so it could be the neighbors car?)


    :rofl
    #8
  9. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,735
    Location:
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    So....that scan tool thing is total bullshit. I rebled the system and checked all of the sensors. Brakes work great, abs code is not being thrown anymore. You can fix stuff without dealer help. ABS and AWD working great.
    #9