Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by DRS Canada, Dec 5, 2004.
check auto decompressor cable if its sticking or return spring is broken etc
Thanks for the idea.
If its sticking would I have been able to adjust the exhaust valves?
good point.thats me out of ideas,
it could be a burned valve
or it may have jumped time
I'm pretty sure it hasn't jumped time, it ran fine last time. I just looked at the camchain and cam when I had the valve cover off. Nothing visiblely out of place or worn.
The valves could be burnt, it had low compression for awhile.
Whatever costs the most is probably gonna be the fix
Have you done a dry and wet compression check? Adjust everything again, to spec. Then find a local shop that can do a leakdown.
There have been Wiseco 97 mm overbore kits on Ebay for around $160, figure another $50 for boring and whatever gaskets cost. Whatever--it would be under $300. And while you had it apart, get the valves ground, replace worn guides and put in new seals. Budget $500 for a nice new strong top end. You can have new cable made up using your old decomp cable housing, btw. Cheap--like $10 or $15.
Get the stripped bolts helicoiled, and replace any leaking seals (see some of my previous posts for likely candidates.) Parts for our old DR's are really reasonable.
And you sound like you can handle the mechanic's work.
Simple one for you guys, uneasy one for me: I just went ahead and put on a new 16t countersprocket on my bike (found out the last one was 15t) got everything tightened back up, chain is snug, everything looks straight, rolled well, went to put the chainguard back on and the bolts that are holding the sprocket on are rubbing on the chainguard. Loosened the chain, flipped the sprocket around, same thing. Took it off, checked width, of course the same. So I was wondering did I do something terribly wrong that could be fatal for my poor old girl, or can I just just the two little plastic bars that the bolts rub on?? I gave her a nose job as well (WR450F front fender), took 10 years off her appearance. Thanks for your help guys, I would love to go for a ride tonight!
No you dont need it. Had a non magic button DR-650 I bought new back in 91'. First thing I did was remove the chain guard, guard around the countersproket and that goofy plastic on the front disc and forks. Second thing I did was put real tires on it.
I did the same as stubmw, but mine is a 1992 and I don't have those plastics he is talking about. Without those covers it's way more easy to keep it clean down there. No idea why it would be grinding against the chainguard, the mounting brackets on the rearbridge must have been bent a little, just make sure you have enough slack on the chain.
YEAY! Tomorrow could be the day that the bushings for my KLR650 ´08-´10 shock come in, so I can finally mount it on my DR650! Damn rear shock now is like a pogo stick; good thing is that it's not leaking oil any more all over the place. Any tips on the type of greasy that would be best when installing the new shock?
Sorry guys I did mean the countersprocket guard, anyways, there has been a minor (cough, cough) setback in my sprocket situation. I should have just waited, but no, phoned my mechanic brother, he said take it off put the old one back on, see if it rubs. Okay, no problem, go to take one of the bolts off that attaches to the sprocket, SNAP!! I won't repeat my words here, but I was letting fly, poor neighbours. That put a stop to that, parked the old girl, going to have to get some new bolts, see what else is out there (any suggestions??), hopefully get the bolt out of the brand new sprocket and try again tomorrow. Again, if there is anything that you can think I was doing wrong, the feedback is appreciated. Thanks.
I agree with your brother. It should not rub the cover so something wasn't installed correctly. Removing or cutting the cover only is not the solution. After you have it back installed correctly without rubbing then you can remove the cover as some suggest. Maybe the bolt that broke was crossthreaded and not fully seated.
Why would anybody ever want a bigger front sprocket on a DR anyway?
The stock one is too big to begin with!
Today I'm putting on my KLR650 2008-2010 rear-shock, I never found anyone on the net
who did this before so it could be that it hits the air-filter box and the yoke down on the
rear-bridge. So, let's get started!
Before I started I thought to check how much space there was around the yoke:
From the top
From the bottom
There isnt much space
Lifting the bike on some milk-crate and some wood... 5cm clearance for the rear wheel...
First I had to remove the two side fenders and the seat, followed by removing also the battery.
Then I have to loosen the battery holder for some extra millimeters of play. After that, the
air-box can be moved some 2cm backwards, sure I need to detach the air-box from the
carburetor and the 3x M6*16mm. Now, finally I can remove the bolt and nut from the upper
part of the shock; at Suzuki they could have made the air-box just a bit smaller so you
would NOT have to do all the darn steps I described before.
Now, I just have to remove all the bolts and nuts from the down section and the yoke. While
I'm removing all, I inspect all the bearings; all seem to be fine. Shock comes out smooth and
o man it's a mess. Cleaning all up and applying new "super-grease", the yellow/orange
one, in every hole and bearing. there is a lot of empty space between the 2 needle bearings
so I'm filling that up as well.
Now, let's compare those shocks:
The KLR shock is about 18mm longer but I would not see why that would be a problem.
So, let's continue greasing the fresh made bushings in and see if the shock fits with the
The bushings came in yesterday and they fitted perfectly:
Lower part, bushing from 15 to 10mm, and 3mm spacer, one on each side
upper part, bushing from 12.1 to 10mm, and 4mm spacer, one on each side
So, I´m placing the bushing in and see if it lines up in the upper section... well... it does not.
Bushing are perfect but something is hitting the frame... darn. :huh Upon inspection, I see
that the KLR650 shock isn't as rounded as the DR650 shock so... I need a bench-grinder...
I don't have one so let's go to the shop to get one with some clamps to set it on my office desk
(I don't have a workshop like most of you guys ). There, got one, will be handy in the
future any way, now, let's start grinding that sucker.
This is what needs to be done:
Red part will be gone
Now, 20 minutes later I'm done, even a better job than Kawazaki did I would say :
Finish with 320 grid paper
Now, let's put that sucker in!
Snug as if it was made for it!
I thought I needed to mod that air-box but all fitted well, as you can see, the spring
adjuster bolt I kept on the left side and not on the right side as it would be originally placed
on a KLR650. Now the down section:
Nice, compared with this:
The seat height went up by 2.5-3cm and even some 5cm at the back:
And one shot from behind the bike:
Now, the test drive! When sitting on it it feels smooth, way less bumpy for sure as the other
shock had no oil in it any more. It feels a bit too plush almost but I'll be adjusting it little by
little till I find the right setting for my type of riding style.
I hope that this could help fellow inmates here to have an alternative when their shock goes
AWOL. I paid in total, shock, shipping (43USD from the USA to Mexico), bushings and some
small parts, a total of 200USD.
Preload is set at "4", after using the setup for some time I can see that the rear shock does touch a little bit the airbox, but it's not damaging anything. I'm still happy as a kid (wait, I'm still a kid ) with it...
Simple correction, got the new 16t on, bumped up my cruising speed to 110km/hr will work out better for me for my commute to work. It will be very easy to swap back to the old sprocket once I start doing more off road riding (which won't be until next year).
Once you get the routine down, you'll be able to have sprockets to suit your days needs. 14 teeth for when you want to be able to wheelie over snow banks () 15 teeth for racing between stop lights, 16 for getting out on the superslab. I think you could reasonably expect to be able to change out the front sprocket (and adjust the chain) in 20 minutes or so.
Too plush? Is that possible?
The soft shock helps make the ride of the generation 2 KLRs really comfy out on the highway and around town. For serious off road one sets the damping to the highest setting and the spring preload to at least the middle setting. Mine is on the leastest settings, and on the bumpies, it tends to bottom out (part of that problem is my big fat ass, tho.)
There should be a pretty good supply of lo mile used shocks--while the KLRistas like to think they're cheap, they tend to replace these with shocks from Progressive or Cogent Dynamics (Moab.) Which brings the thought, for those with fat wallets and don't know where to spend all their spare bucks, you could put a Moab shock on your DR--they really are very good I hear. And at about $600 are certainly affordable for a $1500 motorcycle.
Anyhow, nice write up, where'd you get those bushings? And for what you want (2 up touring in Mex.) the shock will be much more than adequate.
(My ancestors were Dutch, too.)
I went to university in Holland, Gio van Bronkhorst and Nigel de Jong were patients of mine for a while!
I now have all three different sprockets, and I have so much practice changing them, I have it down to 10min. tops.
For serous offroad I would get a much lighter bike, something in the 140kg/308lbs with a full tank, this bike is just a travel bike. This morning I tried if I could bottom it out but I could not, plus the font suspension bottoms out way earlier. Now, I still have to test the bike with some extra weight on it (or female passenger ). It's a huge improvement over the old shock, even before that shock was leaking oil. And about the big fat ass; I'm working on my weight, 80kg/176lbs at the moment and still a few kilos to go. I can imagine that a 100kg/220lbs rider would have it set at 3 of 5 and not like me at 1 of 5.
Now I must say that I almost bought a used Progressive, but the bidding went up to almost 200USD I believe, that was the older model that can be bought for some 350USD or even less new. Now, they also say that an aftermarket shock is lighter, but I wonder how much lighter you can make it; steel can be replaced with alu for the casing but that all you can win with it. I used to drive mountainbikes and o man where people ripped off by getting a 20 gram lighter part. I didn't weight the KLR shock but I'm sure it's not over 4kg/8.8lbs. Sure the shock looks heavier with the thin galvanized top part and plastic cover.
Those bushing were made in a local workshop and they charged me 150 pesos, say 12USD for it . It seems that this shock will do for my needs, if anything needs to get improved on suspension I'll better get a different front system.
Now, there is a downside of a longer shock; The chain slides more over the upper chain-guide so that must be replaced more often (say it needs to be replaced 20% earlier). The second thing I found out is the lower roller; it's noisy when you brake on the engine and the chain pushes harder on it. Now I must say that those stock rollers are basically crap, no ball-bearing in them and way to hard for my liking, so, the lower one will be replaced by some racing roller soon!
While the back came up some 5cm over the stock shock, I also needed to adjust the headlight height AND the chain-slack. I'll be replacing the stock rear light soon with the DR250 light as I tent to kick it when jumping on my bike. I'm just 1.74m tall on a good day with an inseam of 76cm, seatheight is now 96cm , that's where still the rear light is; takes me a karate kick to jump on the bike.
0-0 Still at 69 minutes! Not that I care much about soccer. Seems it will be penalties!
quick question. You said that the height difference of of the two shocks was
18mm. If the over all heighth is possibly causing other wear issues, I was wondering if you thought about putting a new lower bolt hole on the lower part of the shock where your picture shows the
By the photos, it looks as though there is enough material to do so and by doing so you would be able to make the hole the proper bolt size for the DR.? This would eliminate the bushings and you would just need spacers.? I like your idea and execution and am interested in how it will perform for you. My stock shock is wasted and I am going to need to upgrade. When I am riding it looks like a dualsport lowrider. I am going to see if I can adjust it enough to get me off the ground for alittle while.