Prepping a 640 adventure for a bit of travelling

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Umarth, Apr 7, 2013.

  1. CSF

    CSF Been here awhile

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    Hey Umarth,

    Glad to see you clearing up the electrical issues!

    How is the planning part of your trip going? Have you got a route in mind yet? When are you planning on leaving?
    #21
  2. Umarth

    Umarth Been here awhile

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    380
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    Tramping arround the world for a bit with Big O
    My contract ends on may 31st, so if the bike does not throw me any curve balls till then, I should be off 1st weekend of June.


    As for a route, I only have two things planned out so far:
    1. Crossing canada on as much of the TCAT as is possible. My only concern is the bike as I've done a lot on it (for a newb) so my confidence level is still low. But I'm sure that will go up. Should be taking it out for a good beeting out on the trails may 4th.
    2. The second, I need to be in bogota by sept. 15th as a budy of mine is shipping his bike to join me on the road to terra del fuego.
    Other than that, I know I'll be passing into mexico city to see friends. I would like to spend a month in Merida (yukatan). But I also want to see yukon and alaska so I'll have to make a choice between the two when I get to BC.

    If possible, but I have yet to look into it, I would like to cross the US by trails but I'm not clear on how to do it. There is the continental devide trail but haven't researched it.

    I also hope to hit trails in mexico as much possible but my problem is, I have no clue where they are. So that might not happen. Will see as things develop.

    I'm also trying to recruite people for the TCAT portion of it. :)
    #22
  3. Umarth

    Umarth Been here awhile

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    I've read here and there that it's a good thing to change your suspension oil once in a while and I figured that was the perfect excuse for me to rip open my forks (had the rear shock done by a pro shop and upgraded the rear spring from a 70kg to a 80kg to compensate for the aprox 40-50lbs of luggage).

    I was quite supprise at how easy it is to work on the WP forks. Well, the 2006 model anyway. There is almost nothing in them. The only "hard" part was dismantling the lower section as there is nothing to keep the ss shaft from turning. Ended up wrapping it in rubber and butting that in a vice:

    [​IMG]

    And for those who have yet to breaks their forks open, this is what you'll find in them:
    [​IMG]

    And if yours are as dirty as mine where, before I cleaned it, you could see something lile this to:
    [​IMG]

    But I was lucky in that it was just gunk and it all cleanup up real nice:

    [​IMG]

    While I was there I also replaced the seals and dust caps. Didn't have the official tool to pound the seal back in but I found that a peace of PCV pipe cut in half & trimed a bit at the proper places worked like a charm. I also did not have the official tool to glide the seal onto the fork tube, so I just cut open a can of Coka Cola and wrapped the fork with it, greased it a smige and slid the seals over it. All in all, 1.59$ instead of 50$ and a week or two of delay to get the tools shipped.

    With that done, I turned to the electrical...

    First thing I wanted was a remote fuse block (not enought free space under the seat to my liking) and I browsed alot before deciding on getting the twisted throttle PowerHub fuse block.

    [​IMG]

    That ended up being a mistake. On paper, that thing is sweet and actual does have all the right features. Where it falls short is when you actually come to connect the wires to it. All the positive wires are on one side of the block, and the grounds on the other. This forces your wires to split early and makes a mess as far a wire routing goes. But I could live with that. What, IMO, is the deal breaker is that their is no support for the wire sheating.What this has as a concequence is that the wires tend to make sharp angles at the junction with the box and outside of the wires rubber sheath. What happens is that the wires tend to fray and break at the weak point because they are not supported.

    You can see it here, though I've routed the wires very loosly so as to attempt to minimize the sharp bends:

    [​IMG]

    I'm not sure what I'm gonna do. For sure, if I keep this fuse block, I'm gonna move all the ground connections directly onto the "ground bar" that acts as a brace for the cock pit extention that I added. I'm also thinking of just junking it just amd making my own relay activated fuse box. Really, will depend on how much time I have for "nice to haves" before I leave. But one things is certain, at the moment: this wiring setup is weak IMO and will be prone to breaking and just generaly pissing me off during the trip and will need to be addressed at some point.

    Bit aside from that, I'm rather happy with the electrical. I would of liked for the wires to be tidier but in the end I opted for longuer wires so that I can moved things arounds easalier without having to disconnect everything.

    I'll pick up a label printer this week and next week will label each wire with a number that can be referenced on my wiring diagram (that I have yet to draw up of course :) )

    So, here is a view of the cockpit, minus the GPS unit that I have yet to build a support for:

    [​IMG]





    The buttons are:
    • The round stainless steel between the gauges, is the cut off switch for the fuse block.
    • The rubber botted switch on the right side is the octane selector. I'm still on the fence on that one. I might end up relocating it behide the flap of the extended "cockpit" panel, to prevent accidental triggering it. Dunno, will see with usage.
    • The left most switch is for enabling both head lights at the same time. Since space is at a premium, instead of used an extra relay to support this feature, I just used a diod to connect the high and lo via this switch.
    • At the moment, the second from the left is the kill switch for the HID head lights. I'm not happy with this as I like things to be automated. What I'm gonna do, once my battery is replaced, is try to use a 14v zener diod instead of a manual switch. This will free up a realy and autoamticaly (at least thats the idea) turn on the joice to the head light relays only once the engine is actually running. This will work only if the battery, when engine is off, has a voltage of less that 14v and that the voltage rises to 13.9v or more when engine is running.
    • The 3rd switch from the left is for the heated grips.
    • Just to the left of the left most switch, is a led indicator of the battery condition. Color coded: green = 12v or more, yellow = 11.6v or more, red = less than 11.6.
    • You can se peeking out on the left side, I have a battery conection that can be used to charge the battery. Dont think I could use it to boost it.
    One big problem I had was figuring out just where to place those bulky balasts for the HID'. Well, turns out that strapping them directly to the cockpit's plate works just fine, as can be seen here:
    [​IMG]
    #23
  4. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Umarth,
    Really nice electrical work, impressive actually.

    Did you fuse the hi and low beam relays separately? I think that's really important so that you don't lose all your lights in the case of a failure. That strategy has saved me several times.

    What is the brand of battery voltage indicator are you using?

    I'll be riding from Wisconsin to the west coast of Washington of the USA some time in June but through the USA.

    Any electrical problems/etc. just drop to Wisconsin down through the Sault Ste Marie and stop in.

    bill
    #24
  5. Umarth

    Umarth Been here awhile

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    At the moment, both hi & lo are using the same fuse. The reasoning being I'm don't know yet just how many fused slots I'll be needing plus I hadn't really thought about the blowing both light out the same time concequence. I'll take care of that. thanks.

    The voltage level led I have is from twisted throttle. It's very compact, and when tested against the volt meter seems spot on. But I haven't tested in extreme cold or extreme heat, so who knows how it's behave. But the price was right and it's not a critical peace any way.When a battery starts to fade you useually feel it before it quits. Here's the link for those interested:
    http://www.twistedthrottle.com/elec...cycle-battery-voltage-monitor-flush-mount-kit

    How long will you be staying in washington?
    #25
  6. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Hey Umarth,
    Used this one for years, it is accurate and has saved me a couple of times.

    http://signaldynamics.com/index.php...age.tpl&product_id=56&category_id=44&vmcchk=1

    I'll probably be in Washington a couple of weeks, Plan to stay in Blane, WA which is right on the border as in the border runs thru the town...got a good friend there that shelters travelers.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blaine,_Washington.

    BTW I have friends in Minnesota and Montana who have done the SA to TDF trip should you want more info(I have too). plus we rode the Yukon to the Arctic Circle on the Dempster Highway. It's a better ride than the Haul Road in Alaska to the Circle.

    Maybe ride up to Vancouver Island to get a dose of the Pacific or Cape Flattery, Neah bay

    http://northolympic.com/files/capeflatterytrail/index.html

    bill
    #26
  7. Umarth

    Umarth Been here awhile

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    Installed new battery and it fired right up! Hurrah!!
    Took it for a ride and noticed a few things that need tweaking. :(

    1. No power! Opening up the throttle pass 50% gives no power and wot feels like a power drop. I'm thinking the float height is wrong? Could it be the a/f ratio? At the moment it's 2 1/2 turns out from full in. Chock cable seems to be routed properly, but could IT also be reason?
    2. temperature indicates 4 bars, even at 70kph and 10deg Celsius. Can't remember if that ok or if I f'ck up something relative to the water pump.
    3. the base gasket of the cylinder is weeping oil when engine is cold. I imagine it's because I didn't torque it down properly. No surprise as my torque wrench simply would not fit into the recess for torqueing the not. Anyway, I'm wondering, is this a sign that I over torqued or under torqued it? When I did it, I used my torque wrench on an other bolt to give me a reference so I should be in the ballpark.
    Other than that, runs nice and steady.
    #27
  8. thumperbuddy

    thumperbuddy Outdoorsman?

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    Is that an Awesome Players Sticker on your fairing? I see you live near Motoriley in Quebec...
    #28
  9. mountaincadre

    mountaincadre Been here awhile

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    1.Can you take it to a shop with a dyno?
    2. Mines runs at 4 bars and has had no problems(actually i think that is what its supposed to be)
    3.Think you,ve answered your own question.
    #29
  10. Motoriley

    Motoriley Even my posing is virtual

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    Umarth is in a lot of our 2011 videos on his white F800GS. Still have to edit the 2012 stuff. I think I have one ride where he is on the 640 that is still in the editing stage.

    #30
  11. Umarth

    Umarth Been here awhile

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    If I can avoid the Dino, I'd be a happy camper. But if it's not fixed by next Friday I'll take it to a pro to set it up properly.

    As for point three, the question was more could it weep had I ever torqued it. I don't want to over-over torque it, as we all know the woes that can bring.:cry
    #31
  12. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    Did you apply sealant to the base gasket area around the cam chain tunnel ? Is that the area where it is leaking from? The manual calls for this added measure ... I have never used a torque wrench on the base nuts, instead I just give them a good snugging with a banana shaped box end...

    Did you have the carb apart during your rebuild? Is the washer still in place on the slide? Is the needle in the middle position? If your choke enricher was a problem it would kill the bike at the bottom of the rev range, float height would also have an effect down low, but if the fuel level in the bowl is too low it may starve the engine at higher revs... I would have good look at your jet needle for something out of whack and also the emulsion tube {needle jet} perhaps the air passage ways are blocked... Make sure your plug cap is screwed on tight as sometime an electrical issue can feel like carburation problems..

    4 bars is normal operating temperature so that is one less worry for you...
    #32
  13. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Umarth,
    Did you try retightening the cylinder bolts, I'd get on them again.

    As for the carb Like the G-man says, make sure the neede is in the right position and that it is assembled in the correct sequence as per the parts manual.

    be sure the carb is tight to the engine and there are no tears in the diaphragm.
    bill
    #33
  14. mountaincadre

    mountaincadre Been here awhile

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    Just mentioned the dyno mate as mine was running a wee bit rich and i was having lots of problems trying to get it sweet, took it to the relatively local dyno shop(they have there own race team) and was very pleasantly surprised by how little it cost, and the difference it made(very little vibes and 5hp more:evil) i know what your feeling with the head nuts, can ye borrow/beg/steal a tool that will do the job?
    #34
  15. Umarth

    Umarth Been here awhile

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    The update so far:

    1. the new battery was the problem for the bike not starting. Put a new one in and starts on first roll of piston. hourrah! On the plus side, now I know exactly what to look for in diagnosing if a battery is dead. So +1 for experience.
    2. Warmed up the engine to opperating temp and then tightened the base cylinder bolts. No more weeping! happy happy! :)
    3. Engine stays in the 4bars temp wise, fan starts at 5th bar and from what I'm reading that all good. Slowly getting there! :freaky
    4. Carb still not properly adjusted, as I've yet to fiddle with it. So at the moment, top speed is 110kph with the wind at my back. I'll get on that this comming thirsday. If I can't adjust it properly by the end of the week end, I'll have a pro do it for me.

    Was fealing the itch to put some miles on it to see if all,other than carb, was good so I road it back to city, about a 100km ride. As I entered the city, I noticed that the clutch was getting really soft. And went limp as a 90 year old deprived of viagra, about a click away from home.

    After some reseach, finally understood why my oil reservoir was leaking last year. The clutch slave cylinder's o'ring was dead. Which gave me a taste of things to come as I was far from my work shop; I changed the o-ring and the engine oil as it was contaminated, on the street down town of montreal no less. :lol3 One cop car slowed down to check on the odd man sitting on the sidewalk beside a bike butguess they figured the junkies right arround the corner where of more interest to them... :huh

    So, at the moment, bike appears fully functional, just down on power.
    This thing is really starting to feel like it's leaving on the trip in just a few weeks!! :clap

    Oh and I used the HID at night for the first time also. OMG! what a difference!!!! Was not sure they where worth the hassle; I'm sold now! All future bike will be treated to them hence forth...

    I'm sure more problems and questions are comming, but for now: thanks guys for all your invaluable help! Without you, I'd never have been able to do this...
    #35
  16. Motoriley

    Motoriley Even my posing is virtual

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    Hi Umarth. Heading over to Fort St Eugene Thursday around 9:45 AM to give Henrik a hand. Pop over if you are in the hood.
    #36
  17. Umarth

    Umarth Been here awhile

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    You going up on your bike? If so, I could join you on the way up to the Fort...
    #37
  18. Umarth

    Umarth Been here awhile

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    Went to Fort Saint-Eugene to try and resolve my throttle response issue. And even thought Motoriley lent his talents (thanks by the way!), we were not able to resolve the issue.
    We cleaned the carb just to be sure but it was already very clean. We readjusted the float level. It was a bit off but not by much. We did fond that the air/fuel ratio screw had two rubber washers, so we removed one and really where hoping that that was the issue. But no, it was not. We tried it without the air filter but that did nothing. We gave an extra half turn in both direction on the A/F screw also without any real change.
    The needle is set on the third slot (if you count from the stubby end of the needle). Gonna put it in the middle tonight and see if that makes any diff. But I don’t expect it will make a drastic change.
    Checked the diaphragm for any issues and its in perfect shape. All the rest of the carb parts where replaced this winter. The main jet is a 152.5, which i believe is the stock setting. The bike is 100% stock so I guessing that should be the proper jetting.
    Tested the bike a lot more today and I'll revise my description. Initially I thought it was fine until hitting full throttle but it’s not. It lacks power all through the range throttle and rpm range. Even in dirt, launching the bike and getting the wheel to spin in 1<SUP>st</SUP> gear you need to rev it and dump the clutch.
    But between 4000 and 5000 rpm, that where going wot kills it. The engine just bogs down and actually slows down until you let off a bit. I’d say the last 1/8<SUP>th</SUP> off of wot is where there is absolutely no power to be had.
    Could it be the cdi? Or the spark? The engine has no trouble running right up to 7000rpm. And does not stumble as long as you don’t open the throttle to much. So in my mind anyway, the spark seems to be doing its job.
    How about the fuel pump? Do they tend to go bad? Are they serviceable? Should crack it open and check something?
    I’m gonna re-adjust my valves tonight. Hopping that i did something really bad last time.
    That and moving the clip on the needle to the middle position. If that don’t work, i just don’t know what else to do to fix it. And just to make matters worse, racing seasons starting so the only mechanic that I have faith in for working on my bike is swamped with work, so I have no idea when he’ll have time to look into this issue. Maybe I could get him to just go over the carb and set it perfectly and see from there.
    <?xml:namespace prefix = "o" ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p> </o:p>
    #38
  19. Umarth

    Umarth Been here awhile

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    Oh, and we checked the spark plug to see if the engine was running rich/lean and spark plug color was a nice dry tan color...
    #39
  20. Droptarotter

    Droptarotter Long timer

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    Hey, how old is the fuel you are using??

    Old gas might let an engine fire up, but I have had bikes with old gas not be able to pull my fat arse down the road??

    Cheers
    #40