Problem with GMC truck door lock/unlock

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 150ron, Nov 20, 2012.

  1. 150ron

    150ron Long timer

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    Kids were playing in the truck yesterday and left the lights on, this morning the battery was dead, its a 2005 GMC canyon crew cab, the 2 rear doors and the front passanger door DO NOT have key holes, only the front driver side door, so i go to put in the key to unlock the door, (to jump start the truck) and it does nothing, will not open the door??


    Call Roadside service, they show up and eventually get a wire thingie in there and flip the door lock button, the door opens, jump start the truck, all is well, then we look at the only option to open the truck with a key, the driver door, and the lock when used with the key, will only LOCK the door, it will not open the door, i never used the key to get in the truck, have always used the keyless entry (remote control) to lock/unlock the truck.

    It seems like there is something wrong here, it cannot be that there is no option to unlock the door, lol, i tried spraying wd-40 in there and to work the key around, still nothing, the key slot is vertical and will only turn to the right, to lock it, and does not go all the way horizontal, only about half way between vertical and horizontal, and it locks it just fine,

    everything else works great and like it should, what do i do about this? if the truck battery dies again i dont want to be stranded, anyone know anything about this? cant really afford to take the truck to the GMC dealer at this time.

    thanks.
    #1
  2. 150ron

    150ron Long timer

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    Ok, its official, im a dumbass, i tried my extra key (new) and it works fine, yep yep yep, i know i know, i struggle... A LOT.
    #2
  3. GreaseMonkey

    GreaseMonkey Preshrunk & Cottony

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    Well hey, at least you fixed the problem!

    You might also want to think about wiring in a pigtail somewhere that you can get a charger on your battery without having to unlock your hood.
    #3
  4. Tosh Togo

    Tosh Togo Long timer

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    Dumbass?... no, you're human, like most of the rest of us are. Even though it took a while to find the gremlin, replacing a dead key is far easier than a lot of other cures might have been. :D

    Look at the bright side... there were no broken driveshaft or final drive issues to be dealt with. :1drink
    #4
  5. 150ron

    150ron Long timer

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    Good idea, maybe like a Battery Tender pigtail that i could reach from the front grill, thanks.

    thanks, the dealer wanted $89 bucks just to diagnose the problem, lol, the new key was 4 bucks, so im glad it eventually worked out fine.
    #5
  6. thisflatearth

    thisflatearth 2 wheel has been

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    Go with the Anderson Power Plugs to wire up a heavy duty battery connector.

    We have them on our Fire Department trucks and the connecors on the battery powered jaws of life.

    They are either banging around on the truck or in the cabinet and beaten up extrication on calls.

    Never seen one break in over a decade.
    #6
  7. GreaseMonkey

    GreaseMonkey Preshrunk & Cottony

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    Personally, I wouldn't go with a power plug in this application.

    Murphy says that when the battery goes flat again, if you are lucky you'll have a set of jumper cables and that will be all.

    To be honest, if I had a vehicle like this I would simply connect a section of 10 gauge stranded cable and leave it coiled and taped up somewhere in the engine compartment you can reach from underneath. Just give yourself enough slack to give you a couple feet, strip about 3/4" away and put a wire nut on the end and then wrap with electrical tape. That way you're good to go even if it happens in the dead of winter and your battery is shorted out internally. Just clip a jumper cable to it and the negative cable to the frame somewhere. Dirt cheap and if you never have to use it again then all the better!
    #7
  8. 150ron

    150ron Long timer

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    Wow, that is awesome, never knew you could jump start a car that way, thanks for that info! :clap

    The red will always go the positive on the battery, and the black can either go the negative of the battery or the frame?
    #8
  9. troidus

    troidus Long timer

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    I wouldn't leave loose wire coiled under the hood. Install one of the connectors mentioned, secured where you can get to it with the hood closed, then make up a set of jumper cables with clamps on one end and a mate to your hard-mounted connector on the other. That way, no matter whether you're the jumper or jumpee, you have a guaranteed good connection to your battery.
    #9
  10. aussie_king_mick

    aussie_king_mick Been here awhile

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    Please note that some GM vehicles have a way to get around the problem you describe above, as follows: When the battery is dead...you turn the driver’s door lock key firmly (not too hard) and at the same time you also operate the driver’s door opening handle.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    Although, the vehicle interior snib button may not move you can still mechanically open the door. It’s worth a try to see if it works on this vehicle?<o:p></o:p>
    #10