Project Cosette (Yet Another Sportster conversion)

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by WhicheverAnyWayCan, Nov 17, 2012.

  1. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

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    First, the situation with my back.. thought I would provide some diagram of my back issue to give you better idea what I am dealing with..

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    A follow-up visit with doctor was better visit than the first one because doctor took the time to explain to me in details. He said that only left side is fracture but right side is not fracture so the slipping process will not happen unless I fracture my right side then that's where it could get bad. For now, no surgery is needed and continue with routine exercise that I did in PT as well as taking meloxicam every day. With good common sense and restricting myself from lifting heavy objects, I will be okay so all is good!

    Many of parts are here with few more on the way.. Got a little carried away with the handlebar..

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    -A complete gasket set for engine
    -Special tappet set that is designed to work with 86-03 bottom case and 04-06 heads due to few degree difference and this tappet will make it fit perfectly to ensure that none of water get inside bottom case of the engine. Very important for water crossing!
    -Supposedly a special bracket but it seems to be an OEM bracket to hold engine to front part of frame
    -Threebond 1194 liquid gasket for bottom part of cylinder jugs. Vibration resist and crackproof.
    -Redline lubricate to lube pistons for installation.
    -Moose racing handlebar
    -Joker Machine 7/8" to 1" adapter (gray piece on handlebar)
    -Konflict Motorsports package finally came! .58 fork springs, bushings, and seal sets.
    -Non-pictured: Buell clutch cable to work with 7/8" handlebar.

    Waiting to arrive is Chainsikle rear set bracket.

    So let the work continue!
    #61
  2. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    That is good news on the back issues. In '99 I broke 2 of the Transverse process bones on L4/L5 on my right side and they healed up pretty well. Very few issues after they healed. They get sore after a long sits or too long of standing in one spot, but otherwise no issue. I am having ALOT of more trouble with my C5/6/7 and the 2 sets of fusions and refusions I have had there so I am confident you can heal up well and get better.

    Bike sounds like it is coming along well also, that's great. Take your time.

    My bike is getting very close to being rideable. It started the other day for the first time in 6 months and my new custom hand fabbed pipe sounded bitchen....a bit loud, but worth it I think.
    #62
  3. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

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    What is the difference between cast aluminum and billet aluminum?? What is the real benefit??

    - Cast aluminum rear hub (H-D OEM) is 4.5lbs. and found used one $60
    - Billet aluminum rear hub (Woody's Wheel) is approx 6.5lbs.

    The difference is $240 so I am not sure it is worth $240 difference for a measly 2lbs??

    I also have steel hub from 70's that I got for free.. it is in good shape but just need cometic work.. It weight 6.5lbs and steel usually are stronger than aluminum unless I am wrong??
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    Just don't see the point in burning too much money replacing what I already have in hand?? The only reason I am struggling to make a decision is because I would like to ride BAM road on this harley and BAM is very hard on bike so I need something I can count on not to break on me in middle of nowhere in Russia. If I was just going to ride up the Dalton and down to Ushuaia then it is not really a big deal.. just that BAM is a big deal!

    Also, I am hoping that KTM's hub (front) will hold together. I'm wondering what JimmyTheHog and JohnWesley use for front end? I'm gonna check their building thread and see if detail is already there.

    In regard to rims, I've decided to go with Buchanan's own Sun rims so I am planning to get Buchanan's to build wheel set for me once I finalize with hub.
    #63
  4. Dirt Road Cowboy

    Dirt Road Cowboy Sometimes I'm A Jerk

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    In my experience, cast aluminum is not as strong as billet. The steel will probably work best though.

    I have a '73 Sporty that I'm making into a DS/Scrambler. It will take a while since I have a few other projects ahead of it, so I buy a few bits and pieces as I go, and watch all you other Sporty guys have all the fun. :1drink


    .
    #64
  5. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

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    Cool! I have a friend that is contemplating on getting rid of a 1973 Sportster (engine and frame). If you need something in that area, let me know.
    #65
  6. Dirt Road Cowboy

    Dirt Road Cowboy Sometimes I'm A Jerk

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    Well, it would be great to have another engine, and maybe an extra frame too, but I don't know if I could afford it right now.

    Maybe, if the price was right... :evil

    .
    #66
  7. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

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    Of course! I am in same boat so I understand the feeling! I have someone interested in buying my Gilley's El Toro mech bull (as seen in Urban Cowboy) but I have to assume he is all talk until he show up with the money on Monday. :deal

    At least we know how to reach each other in case you finally have the money or he decide to get rid of it at a good price?? I think he was asking $1500 or something like that?? I dunno!?
    #67
  8. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

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    Ok so after few inputs and googles on Billet Aluminum Hub vs Steel Hub, I decided to go with the steel hub below:

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    Took apart KTM and H-D hubs by removing bearing so I can start Powder Coating process. Notice one thing that was different between KTM and H-D bearing- what?? (KTM is on left and H-D on right)

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    KTM bearing is cover with rubber seal and H-D bearing is not? Should I be worried if I go through a lot of water crossing?? Back to research board and maybe drawing board??
    #68
  9. melville

    melville Long timer

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    Does the HD hub have outer races pressed in, or does the bearing run right on the hubshell? Might be worth going to either of the alloy hubs in the interest of long-term serviceability if it's the latter.
    #69
  10. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

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    In the image where you see KTM bearing on left and H-D bearing on right. On the right, you see that rubber seals above bearings? The seal cover the bearing and technically plug one side of the bearing but that still leave the inner exposed in some way since the seal is not 100% watertight. A very small portion of water can still get inside. One logical solution is to carry a grease with me and do a proper bearing maintenance after some excessive water crossing but that seems to be a lot of work? Doable, though!

    Note: If you see in the image on left you see one piece broken off the bearing. I broke that seal off when I attempted to remove it from the hub and that is what it looked like on both side. (The one above it show that)

    Since this hub is the 70's design.. it is possible modern bearing is different and sealed, but right now I can't say until I see it. Let's see!
    #70
  11. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

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    Could be a solution to my problem. Tomorrow, a trip to Harley-Davidson dealer is part of my day errand. Stay tuned!
    #71
  12. JimmyTheHog

    JimmyTheHog Low Speed Adventurer

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    Im using a Talon billet aluminum front hub now, and a Storz billet rear hub (which is no longer available from Storz). They are both pretty stout. Before that, I had a KTM 525 front hub which I think is probably cast aluminum cast in the shape of the hub so minimal final machining is needed - lower cost for mass production.

    Cast aluminum alloys (used for casting in near net shapes) that I know of are usually not as strong as 6061 or 7075 billet. Only concern I have with aluminum vs steel is fatigue life of aluminum. If the hub is stressed much lower than the fatigue limit, then it should last a long time. Steel is more ductile, but if there are marginal welds holding the spoke flanges on the hub (im assuming its welded), then that could be a concern - check the welds frequently.

    I've found its difficult to really accurately predict the loads and stresses these bike will see since riding conditions and cycles vary so much. I do basic stress analysis with assumed loads and cycles, and see how they compare. Then go from there and see how it goes with plenty of offroad testing before committing to it. Hope this helps.
    #72
  13. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    Just my $0.02. I am not sure why people are thinking that the Harley tapered roller bearing seal are any less water proof that the "sealed" bearings on the KTM, But I personally disagree.

    If you look at the seal on the HD tapered roller bearing, that is the same type of seal that is used on every enging and transmission input and output shaft and they last very long and seal very well. The smaller seal on the KTM bearing is no more sealed that the HD.

    I peresonally have opened many "sealed bearings" and found water and debris intrusion and corrosion inside of those seals. I total confidence in the HD seal style. I would just repack them every few months or before any big planned ride and you will be more than fine.
    #73
  14. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

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    Hi JTH, I have Talon hub on order now and will have the retailer ship it to Buchanan's. My question to you is if you have a 17mm axle or bigger? I am using WP 50mm Extreme fork and it is kinda weird.. 20mm on one side of axle and the rest is 17mm. See pic:

    [​IMG]

    Don't know if it should be any concern but I think should be fine because some BMW riders have 50mm WPE on their bike and should be ok? This is the measurement I have using inch caliper measurement (if I have it correctly?) and here is the following: .825" on thick one and .665" in middle with other side .670" .665" and .670 is just right under 17mm.

    Hmm thanks for throwing in your .02 cents.. I was thinking the same thing especially with the 4WD vehicles.. they are not sealed and work ok? Just wasn't sure about that on a dual sport so you can understand my concern in this.

    Right now, it is PITA getting bearing races out! The thread on blind bearing puller (my dad's) is slightly damaged so I am gonna try to heat races with torch and see if it helps. :baldy

    :kboom
    #74
  15. Hughlysses

    Hughlysses Long timer

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    Don't heat the race, heat the hub. I'd suggest you use a heat gun rather than a torch so you don't get it dangerously hot.

    One thing worth considering- the tapered roller bearing from the HD wheel will take WAY more load than a ball bearing. Here's an idea for you to keep water out- drill a hole in the hub and pop a zerk grease fitting in there. Pump the hub full of grease. It will also make it VERY easy to add grease to your wheel bearings when necessary, and fresh grease fed from the inside of the hub will tend to push water and debris out of the bearings.
    #75
  16. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    +1 ^^^^^
    #76
  17. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

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    Ok.. Finally getting into 'off-season' perk with campground closed for the season and etc. Am getting back to moto project.. with small budget, though..

    So here is the homemade sandblaster and powder coating system I made to do the project.

    My dad's gave me the sandblaster.. he was once a man with philosophy of one who die with the most tools win.. until his health deteriorated so much he decided I should inherit his tools a lot sooner than later so his 2nd wife's 3 daughter's husband won't come in the shop and take away what should be mine. :-) He told me that it was empty inside.. but gosh it was so heavy.

    I built a homemade sandblaster box because $100 Harbor Freight set was too much for me.. Redneck style but as long as it works, I am OK with it.

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    I was advised it would be a good idea to build enclosed powder coating box so I made one..

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    My family owns a mobile home park on other property and few mobile homes on this property.. One of them, I decided to take a very old oven out of the kitchen so we can renovate it for my sister to live by herself. She just graduated from college with Bachelor in Elementary Education and got the job at Elementary school few miles from where we live. Anyway.. it has two ovens which is perfect for Powder Coating! :D

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    Of course this is in one of the mobile home, which I converted into a shower house for the campground. That was the only way I could get it done without ponying up $$ for the septic tank and etc. So the kitchen is now Powder Coating room. Half of it is storage holding family stuff.

    I was really pressed on time to get the hub off to Buchanan's Spoke to build new Sun Rims set for my motorcycle. They received KTM Talon's front hub first week of Sept and it is now Oct! :eek1 So first thing first was to do a test run and my first choice was KLR650 Clutch Lever..

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    So I start up sandblaster and it seems to be running funny? It would spray out aluminum oxide constantly although the nozzle is 'closed' and it would go then stop then go then stop.. seems that the flow is not correct but I improvised and make do with it.. I had to reload the sandblaster once and finished sandblasting the lever in 30 mins. Wearing the rubber dishwasher gloves, I cleaned lever off with denatured alcohol before I put it in the oven to pre-heat. After few mins, I pull it out of oven and put it in powder coat enclose. Powder coated it.. and it looks good.

    [​IMG]

    One thing I did noticed.. the dust was pretty bad and now that explain why I see on YouTube someone used a ac/heater filter in the back to vacuum the dust from powder.. anyway, after I baked the lever, result was great! Not bad for first time! All in 1 hour and so work.. Not bad.

    [​IMG]

    Thrilled and excited.. I decided it to get busy with the hub. Oh man! The problem with sandblast became really annoying.. Mind you, I am using my friend's 21-gallon air compressor and for some reason I can't adjust the PSI with it. I can't get up with him because he is currently in alcohol rehabilitation as he just had a relapse. The sandblast is blowing air then media then air then media.. in the process, the dust increase making it difficult to see through the window. I purchased small wet/dry vacuum from Lowe's for $26 and drilled hole on top so the vacuum could suck dust.. well, it worked for a while until the dust clogged up the vacuum. It took about 7 refill to do the whole hub. In the process of scooping up the aluminum oxide, I felt like I was a coal miner collecting black stuff and load it up into a bag (sandblast container). I was dusty black all over my long sleeve, hands, and some smears on my face. By the time I was through, I was so friggin happy to get out of that shirt and washed myself clean. Almost 2 hours sandblasting the hub alone. After I cleaned it off, this is what it looked like!

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    If you got a keen eye, you will notice that this hub apparently were done sloppy. You can see that it is a bit off and not look professional. Nonetheless, I am going to use this one anyway because it was free and it beats paying $350 for similar one in aluminum billet. So after powder coating the hub, I am glad it looks good.. I put it on foil inside the box so I could transport it while it is still hot (took longer to cool off due to steel) to friend's to pack the bearing and assemble it before my friend can ship it from his work place on Monday. His shipping price seems to be 3/4 what it would normally cost at FedEx/UPS/USPS so I'd rather save money using his shipping service at work.

    [​IMG]

    I got many more parts I want to powder coat but first thing first.. I need a dust mask (it was shipped Oct 4th and due to arrive on 17th? New Nozzle to get better control of sandblast and maybe re-do the powder coat enclose with ac/heater filter. I'll get them done this week and get to Forks and cam/primary cover before end of the week, hopefully.
    #77
  18. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

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    Just return back from Colombia few days ago and getting back into daily routine but man, I am still buzzing over my nueva novia! :raabia

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    Anyway, before I left for Colombia, I got myself a nice birthday gift, wheels from Buchanan's Soke: (SPOT was birthday gift from my mother and sister, which I used in Colombia)
    [​IMG]

    Need some help to know how to find right size of tire for my Buchanan's rim? Apparently there is no chart for 2.15X21 (front)? And 80/90X18 is good for 2.75X18? (rear) Please advise and for future reference, is there a simple math method how I can find the answer without looking at the chart? I want to be able to calculate for answer myself without looking at the chart in case I am in middle of nowhere where chart won't be around I can figure it out using my head?

    Thanks in advance!

    EDIT: In case you are wondering, yes I am starting to assemble my bike together now.. hope to be done by New Year Eve? The tire I am leaning toward right now is Kenda 761 Dual Sport. I liked K270 when I used it for TAT last year and I was on same set for 15,000 miles (did it whole TAT and back to home in NC then to Ohio and back so I am impressed with Kenda).
    #78
  19. madrider5150

    madrider5150 Adventurer

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    Those wheels turned out killer!
    #79
  20. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

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    Bad news- I have struck a disaster!! :cry

    I was disassembling the fork and in the process, I nicked the fork tube really deep! Nick is at BAD spot, about 1 and 2 inches above the fork leg area. Very bad position! Although the hydraulic guy had a look at it and he thinks it will be OK and shouldn't affect the seal, I am not sure about it myself.

    After completely disassembling the whole fork, one of the fork leg has few really small dings on the inside that could possible affect the seal?

    If I am to toss out the 50mm WP fork set and replace it with other front end, which front end has a 17mm diameter to hold 17mm axle?? Yamaha YZ250?

    Please help with suggestion on solution. I've put around $500 into front end (including custom fork springs from Konflict Motorsports on ADVrider). I emailed Alex but he is probably closed for Thanksgiving.. I wonder if there is any way to fix the tube?? re-chroming?? Fork Leg remain to be a concern if I do get the fork tube fixed.

    I'm bum out at the moment.. :cry
    #80