Project: RONIN

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by sailah, Mar 26, 2011.

  1. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    Thanks joe. it has a lot of porosity I think due to me using most of the argon flow to the back of the weld. My practice welds looked much more professional.as long as it holds it will be fine.

    I'm going to make the heat shield and seat pan from carbon fiber unless I can get some thin aluminum. I have some days off this week so I'll crank out the work.
    #61
  2. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    Made some aluminum panniers today. I used 0.080" 3003 sheet cut with a skilsaw and the angles cut on a compound miter saw. Welded with 1/16" green tungstens (emphasis on LOTS:lol3) and 4043 filler. I designed them in 3D CAD previous so all the angles etc were worked out ahead of time. Volume calcs give me about 29.5L. They are 18" long and 8" wide. The lids need to be recut too tight.

    My aluminum welding is getting better, I found the best results were laying the filler in the joint and welding right over top of it with a smooth hand. This was pretty much first time welding thin aluminum like this. I like em. I may smooth out the boogers I made, but I may keep em raw like that. Either way the welds are strong.

    Total cost in materials was about $75 and I have enough for a 2nd full set.

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    Now please remind me tomorrow to weld up the mirror image and not the same bag again:deal

    Also got my tires today so you don't have to stare at a blank rim anymore:lol3
    #62
  3. dentvet

    dentvet Long timer

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    You are cranking out the diy fabrication stuff like crazy, good job. What kind of tig setup do you have? Seems to be unstoppable.
    #63
  4. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    I have a cheap chinese inverter. 200 a ac/dc. I have a couple air cooled torches, the one I use most is a 9. I am a total beginner with welding so I just do what feels right and I get a lot of good advice from my local welding supply.

    The welder I got off the pirate 4x4 site for $ 350. I figured it was good to try and then drop some coin on a lincoln or miller. I have to say I have been impressed with what I can do with it. To get a basic inverter machine now is $ 3000. Until this thing dies I'm loving it. I also got a bigger tank, 150 cf. My buddy that works at the shop gets me stuff for nothing. I think he charged me $ 10 to fill it today.
    #64
  5. Tepi

    Tepi Been here awhile

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    I replied to your welding question on your other post. Just my experience in automotive sheetmetal work.

    Inverter machines are nice, 220V and you can lay down nice beads. I'm using an oldschool setup. 3-phase 400V powersupply for DC and a 2-phase 400V transformer for AC welding... Yeah I know sounds crazy, but so far they've worked fine :D

    So far your work look nice.
    #65
  6. Jeff Watts

    Jeff Watts Adventurer

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    Not trying to offend, so please don't take it wrong.

    Why not just use ammo cans? This and the tank thing, just seems like over-engineering is biting you on the backside.
    #66
  7. SimpleSimon

    SimpleSimon Aspiring advrider

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    Ammo cans weigh a metric ton.....
    #67
  8. xcgates

    xcgates Whaaa?

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    And mine are already all full of ammo. If I were to get more, they would magically fill up with more.

    Full, they weigh a metric-assload of a ton times two.:D
    #68
  9. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    It'll take a lot more than that to offend me so don't worry. I do it because I want to. simple as that. I enjoy learning new skills, I may fail, but that is the fun part.

    This whole project would make most people ask why bother? why not just buy a Vstrom?

    The ammo cans?? Cmon this ain't a KLR:lol3 plus the bags weigh about 7 lbs each and are better looking than ammo cans. I am redoing the lids completely so that will look nicer. I only have about $75 into these bags and that inlcudes the hardware and hinges etc.

    I'm going to make up a sticker for them that says:

    "Yes, I welded them myself. No I won't make you a set":deal
    #69
  10. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    For having a day off, I got exactly jack shit done today. Between being daddy, housekeeper, and finishing up work stuff, it was entirely unproductive. I did redo the lids, the flat ones weren't very exciting. It's hard holding all those angles together without a magnet and then trying to tack and feed filler rod. Anyways I got one lid done. Somehow the pics made the welds look like crap, they aren't as bad in person. I kinda dig the way they look but will probably dress them up before paint or powdercoat. I might Line-X them.

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    I did work a little on the shock mount, still waiting on the advice of a tuner to get it dialed in.

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    Hows the suspension look? Trying to make sure I have enough exhaust clearance (it's sagging a little right now) and also enough travel.

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    Ordered the spacer material for the swingarm. The KTM bolt is 20mm OD and I got 1.25" 6061 1/4" wall tubing. I have a friend with a lathe that will help get that sorted. I need the spacer for inside the swingarm pivots, and then a smaller one to space the swingarm from the right side.

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    The major ticket list

    Get rear suspension nailed down.
    Get swingarm spacer made
    Cut tank

    finish 2nd bag and make mounts.
    Make rear fender/mudguard
    finish light bar mounts.
    Make rearsets
    High fender kit (basically second brake line)
    Make seat
    Get underseat wiring finalized
    Build/lengthen centerstand & sidestand
    Order custom rear sprocket
    Size chain links and order that too
    Front rotor bolts


    I decided to can the R1 header. It was going to take a redo of the front motor mount for a small gain. Not worth it. also running stock cooling system. I should have enough clearance with the supermoto fender.
    #70
  11. SimpleSimon

    SimpleSimon Aspiring advrider

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    You need a grinder and some spraypaint for those panniers. :norton

    Good job welding though. I'd love to fab something like that. I do have some resources.
    #71
  12. pennswoodsed

    pennswoodsed lizards,bugs and me

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    Please ,
    don't use any thing other than clear coat on those bags. What the exup it self weigh ? Losing some low end might help traction,but hurt ridability. Fantastic build thread,full stop.
    Regards,Ed
    #72
  13. rideaholic

    rideaholic Been here awhile

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    Looking good Pete. I may be out and about tomorrow. If I meander your way, I will give you a ring to see this beast in person.

    Good to see you got the rear tire on. :evil
    #73
  14. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    The exup is part of the header itself and is a cast iron chunk. Probably weighs 8 #. I decided to keep it on advice of ivans performance that sold me the jet kit and pods.

    Re the bags, I might have to dress them up slightly. I have always wanted to try something anodized and there is a shop nearby...right now the focus is getting it rideable and then worry about cosmetics later

    Thanks for the props
    #74
  15. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    The day you actually show up...

    I'm leaving for my shoot at rolling rock at 4

    The tire was just for you big guy
    #75
  16. OhioPT

    OhioPT Adventure Wannabe

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    Pete, take the spring off the shock so you can easily move the swingarm through its full range of travel. Pull up on the swingarm/rear wheel and when the whole bike starts to move, stop and measure the eye-to-eye length of the shock and also the distance from the center of the rear axle to a marked reference point on the rear subframe. Then let the swingarm fully extend and again measure the axle-to-subframe length and the eye-to-eye length of the shock. Now you can calculate the average wheel-to-shock leverage ratio. You should compare your ratio to that of a 950 Adventure- hopefully it is real close. Javier should have that data for you.

    When you are taking the swingarm through it's range of travel, observe the clearance of the chain and swingarm to check for any potential issues.

    If you haven't already, you should also go ahead and remove the springs from the forks so you can easily move the tubes through their full stroke and check for clearance issues. You might end up needing to place a spacer in the forks to limit the compression travel (to keep the front wheel off the frame or whatever else it may hit there). If so, you'll have to find someone to make you one out of elastomer of the correct height. I believe some Ohlins forks used elastomer bumpers as a compression stop, so it can be done.

    I'd like to stop by sometime to check your bike out. The weather forcast sucks so anytime in the next week would be good if it works for you.
    #76
  17. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    Mark,

    I need to get a compressor to take the spring off. I'm gone through monday unless you want to come today. If not, any time after 6. Do you have my address cell?
    #77
  18. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    Quick update, busy over the Easter weekend with things other than the bike but got a few things done.

    Finished the light bracket. I'll round off the light tabs and then that will be done. I did just buy a Garmin 60csx so I need to figure out where I'll mount that. I don't like stuff on the bars so I might need to add to the bracket.

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    Burned in the rear shock mount. I need to clearance it in a few spots where the top of the shock might rub. Got 3-4" clearance between exhaust and ride hight seems good. I might leave that section of the frame unpowdercoated in case I need to make adjustments. Or I might ride done to the rally with no powdercoat and then decide when I get back.

    You can also see where I finalized the battery placement. Course you need to remove the shock to remove the battery, but I don't anticipate that being a huge deal.

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    Got the rear exhaust tab in. I may cut the exhaust and reweld it slightly. It's just ever so tweaked and it's pissing me off. Not enough to have done something yet, but I can tell it will need to be reworked.

    The hoop is the rear bag mount. Still working on that.

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    Potential bag placement. I need to get the tank and seat done before I can do a final mounting to ensure proper leg clearance.

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    Next big items to get done are the tank, seat, new center & side stands. Then the small projects like rearsets, high fender kit, rewire, skidplate etc.

    I have a new 48T custom rear sprocket from Sprocket Specialists. When I get that in I can measure for links for the 530 chain. I am running the 15T countershaft sprocket.

    I may make my own brake lines. Any reason to not do this? I already have a stock KTM one. Maybe cheaper to just order another for the high fender kit? The supermoto fender looks good and I'll be able to get good clearance from the front wheel to radiator. I do plan on making a custom rad guard from the killer aluminum mesh my buddy gave me.

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    #78
  19. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    Got a few more things done tonight.

    finished the radiator guard. I might make crash guards that are welded to the frame, I might not. This will def help with the rocks etc. Love that this stuff was free.

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    About a finger of clearance. I can shim the fender away and it's only being held on with one bolt at the moment. Glad that was easy.

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    Build a longer center stand. Haven't welded on the feet yet. Side stand I sleeved with 7/8" tube, welded up the top and then drill and welded plug welds at the end of the original.

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    Cut the tank to clear the frame spars. Still needs a lot of finessing, but good enough for one night.

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    Glory shot of the front end.

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    I've sat on the bike now without a seat and everything feels really good. I need to drop the shifter/rear brake controls but I'm going to build the seat first. Need to get the tank all set before I go ahead with seat plans. I'm still thinking aluminum seat pan with some kickass heat shield tape on the underside.
    #79
  20. OhioPT

    OhioPT Adventure Wannabe

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    Making good progress :wink: Looks like you are on track for the unveil date.
    #80