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Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by mrchristian, Feb 17, 2018.
I made one like that, works a treat and no risk so of pulling oil into the engine
Syncing the carbs is important. It can be fustrating if they are way out. It can be the differance with a bike that will run good or not at all.
I just picked up a $35 Carb Sync tool, old school with mercury (I think) courtesy of Craigslist. Surprised how expensive they are, even the cheapest eBay vacuum gauge set is $65. I'll tackle that tomorrow.
Carbs still were giving me issues after 4 cleans...Pine Sol dunk time for a few hours with 50% dilution, followed by rinse and compressed air through the passages. Of course that totally worked, bike finally idles and revs. I should have started with that to begin with.
And on to the last brake which is OF COURSE utterly and completely seized. Again. No amount of compressed air, PB Blaster or squeezing with a piece of wood will budget the right side. Guess I'll try the grease trick again. Or maybe try some heat on the piston? I'd love to avoid grease just once time as clean up is super annoying.
use the Grease gun, scoop the grease out and dunk the thing in PineSol too!
Edit: if you have time, try the PineSol first...
Might be less hassle just to buy a replacement used caliper off the fleabay
Might be a good idea - i'll try the grease trick and if no success give up. Might go to Johnson and Wood and dig around their bins and see if they got something and failing that hit up eBay.
Any other bikes from that era have brakes that would fit? Are they all sort of the same design or are they usually specific from bike to bike? Just in case I need to expand my search to find something nice and clean.
Got the brake caliper to eject - heat and PB Blaster won the day this time.
I think that a lot of my carb troubles might be caused by the vacuum line on the petcock - I think the line itself is leaking causing carburetor hanging idle. Not sure what size it is, will have to dig around at Auto Zone for a replacement. Other than that the bike revs cleanly, accelerates OK and brakes great. Just doesn't drop back down to idle and I wasn't able to track down any intake leaks with aerosol miraculously. I didn't spend much time messing with the rubber lines, too far gone, not worth even dealing with them. Trashed and replaced with a simple stainless line setup that eliminates the three way line splitter:
Might toss the oil thats in the sump with another gallon of fresh diesel oil.
Next step is fixing all the indicator lights. Brake light won't actuate at the moment either.
I got a speedometer drive coming - $10 eBay grab.
Need to figure out how the gas tank sensor hooks up.
I should be getting a plate this week too.
How many turns out are your pilot screws? I used to find a good starting point (at least with stock Toona-cans) was three turns out from bottomed out. Throttle synch can also effect idle,but is more likely going to make a choppy/sloppy/stuttering transition from idle to throttle "on". If it's good (enuff) everywhere else but the idle "hangs," you're likely still too lean on the bottom. A quick check: when idle is hanging up, just pull the choke plungers out minimally, and see if your idle issue abates. If it gets better with a VERY small amount of choke (I mean TINY amount of choke), you're lean. Conversely, I have seen bikes (very rarely, and mostly with older Honda V4s at that) have the "idle hang" problem, and it was actually too rich. After much messing about, I leaned out the pilots and the bike (an 80's Interceptor 750, if memory serves) ran as it was supposed to. You're doing well, keep up the good work! Those old Suzy's really don't die easy.
Two turns out - according to the Carb FAQ on Katriders which I used to setup my carbs, more turns = more air.
The hanging idle sounds like the air bleeds may still be plugged up some. But you are gaining ground on it. The brake lines look just like the set I used when I put the GSX front end on my baby ninja. Keep at it! Good Luck!
I'll give the fuel screws a little more fiddling.
Last question - I need a swingarm slider. I've got an extra eBay XR650L one - possible to just use this? Anyone have any suggestions on a permanent/secure way to attach a non-stock slider? Just hoping to avoid another $25 ebay order for a piece of plastic.
Those NRC case covers are unobtainium. They were to get the bike on the track, lots of oil behind them if the bike goes for a slide. They hold up.
Cast Al, by the way. And thick!
Got the rear brake master and caliper rebuilt and cleaned out.
Rear brake line is (unsurprisingly) clogged. Hit it with the air compressor and some brake cleaner. I connected everything up and left it overnight. Hoping the clean DOT4 fluid soaks into the blockage and eases everything up. More air compressing and brake clean to follow.
My 3 gallon Harbor Freight oilless compressor has earned it's keep. I've hated it since I bought it, it's loud, it's slow but just runs and runs and runs.
I bought a swingarm slider off eBay, $15. Looks like it necessitates removing the swingarm. Dumb design.
Got the rear brake working, lots of brake clean and compressed air and it eventually unclogged, granulated orange rust crap in the line. Not even sure what that is from, there's no steel components in the brakes so maybe it's just fluid that turns into crust over time - the brake light actuates too now so good news there.
Got my speed sensor in the mail, previous owner did a "delete" by adding some sort of spacer I can't figure out how to remove. I can spin it by hand but can't remove it, it sort of turns the spacer on the other side of the wheel so they are touching somewhere. Can't even pop a stock part in, everything is a time suck fight. Ha. Ha. COME OUT STUPID SPACER ARG.
Ran the bike through some leisurely test riding. It starts off crazy cold blooded and won't rev past 4K, half throttle and it stumbles. Eventually it starts to run fine with just the occasional bumble. I tossed a little bit of Berryman fuel cleaner and clean 91 Chevron gas so that seems to be doing it's thing. Idle is still a bit unstable but it's 15% better everytime I run it. Last time I pulled it the pilot jets were clean too. Still at 2 turns.
In my experience, adjustment screws in front of the slide (engine side) are fuel mixture screws, meaning the further out you turn the screw the more fuel it allows to pass through the idle circuit, and the richer your engine will run at idle (and beyond). Adjustment screws located behind the slide (airbox side) of the carburetors are typically your "air screws", and the further out you turn it, the more air is allowed to pass through the idles circuit, leaning out your engine at idle, etc. Give it a whirl.
Got the front end acceptable. Removing the spacer to get the speedo drive on was a huge pain. Required removing the wheel. Easy right? I can pull a dirt bike wheel off in 5 minutes. Well I'm sure it's easy if you have the right tools and I have the wrong tools.
But I got the wheel off, spacer removed, speedo drive on and a new Kenda Kruz 110/80-17 (stock) tire spooned on courtesy of a great local shop that happened to have it in stock. The spacer fused itself in real good so heat, JB Weld and a little bit of rubber mallet tapping got it out.
Cleaned out the bearings, they are in good condition, just a lot of yellow factory grease:
Regreased the bearings:
And everything spins really smooth.
New tire and torque the brake discs down to spec.
I spend a solid hour cleaning the wheels and they are still really crusty. Used some Gunk Orange Cleaner used to clean bicycles. Didn't work any miracles but I got them acceptable. Scrubbed the rotors down with rubbing alcohol to get rid of any residual oils.
I've been using Blue Loctite on most of the bolts I remove, it comes in a stick form now which is super convenient.
Now I just need to remove the swingarm and swap the rubber chain slider on. That feels like it's gonna be a pain. I'll stick a new tire on while I'm doing that but that one needed to be ordered.
I hate working on street bikes. Lots of annoying things. In too deep now!
You can still get the NRC covers .
Niagara Race Crafters covers made here in Ontario / Canada .
Found a good magazine ad - the fastest 600 available...probably. Pulls like a booster rocket!
Sidenote: English people really like their sport bikes.
Plotting out my swingarm removal. I think I'll remove exhaust (again), hoise bike up on a piece of wood with my jackstand for extra stability. And change oil again for safety sake - it's pitch black after running for probably 20 minutes total which is unusual for Rotella.
Check out the changes (recent) to Rotella oils, may be a reason for the black oil: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/shell-rotella-t-name-and-formulation-change.1287801/
Probably less having to do with the oil and more having to do with the fact that the last time the oil was changed prior to my most recent gallon was 28 years ago. I'm sure the detergents in the new oil have loosened up a bunch of crud.