Question About Thick White Smoke And Crank Oil Seals

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by bamaroll29, Feb 19, 2013.

  1. bamaroll29

    bamaroll29 n00b

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    Hey everyone,
    I have a 1998 KE100 2 stroke bike with a rotary disc valve. I am experiencing thick white smoke from my exhaust and I've read that the oil seals could be bad and need replacing. I was just wondering which ones I should replace, and if I need to split the case to get to them. I have removed the covers on my bike and have attached a very short video of where I'm at. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5N4FMveBN8 Do these crankcases need to be split on KE100's to replace the oil seals you would recommend I replace? I am buying them off of motosport: http://www.motosport.com/cruiser/oem-parts/KAWASAKI/1998/KE100/ENGINE-COVER(S)?mmy_source=oem

    On the engine covers section, I see one that goes into the rotary valve. On the Crankcase section, I see three that go into the left side of engine. Which do you recommend I buy? Only the crankshaft ones?

    Thanks for any advice, I'm new to this and trying to learn everything on my own but I've heard splitting the crankcase or removing the rotary valve could make the gears fall out and I'd have to re-time the engine, so I'm a little hesitant. I have the service manual but it has nothing about the directions to the oil seals, only that they should be replaced if hardened or leaking.

    Thanks for any help!
    #1
  2. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    the rotary side crank seal would be the one that's bad if it's blowing white smoke. i have not looked at the fiche to see what's up with that motor, but i would assume there is an o-ring sealing the rotary valve cover, an o-ring on the crankshaft (possibly) and a seal. assuming it's like every other rotary 2t - remove crank gear, rotary valve cover, rotary valve (make sure you notatate where the rotary valve is in location to the teeth it lines up on....) remove seal/o-ring on shaft. replace and put it back together.


    the other side (ignition) would just have 1 seal i would assume on the crankshaft. the other seals on the case are probably shifter/kicker/sprocket etc.

    it's not hard. just make sure you don't loose the correct position of the rotary valve, or flip it over, or something like that...
    #2
  3. Bayner

    Bayner Long timer

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    White smoke is more commonly associated with coolant burning. Is it liquid cooled? If so you may want to check into that first.
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  4. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    it's a 2 stroke. no valve stems. no seals on the top end.
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  5. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    it's air cooled.


    perhaps this should be moved to the 2 stroke forum.



    anyways, white smoke is a bit weird for an aircooled 2 stroke, could also be bad pre-mix. i assume this is oil injected - maybe there's water/comtamination in your oil tank?


    either way, there's no need to split cases on that motor to change any seals - to the best of my knowledge...
    #5
  6. bomber60015

    bomber60015 Anatomically Correct

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    I agree -- white smoke from a two-stoke IS a little strange . . . .

    (just a coincidence, this occuring right after the Pope resigns?)

    I'd check for water contamination of the fuel or oil . . . . check the plugs, too . . . .

    given that it is a 1998 model, if you DO decide to replace the seals, I would suggest you replace all of them . . . .it'd be a shame to replace one or two, only to have another go pear-shaped in a couple of months . . . .
    #6
  7. Dave in Wi

    Dave in Wi Long timer

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    They say a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, so beware. The KE100 is air cooled so no coolant is causing the smoke. It's either getting too much oil from the oil injection system, or a bad seal is allowing transmission oil to be sucked into the crankcase.

    Any chance you are running premix in addition to the oil it's getting from the injection system?

    The fact that the smoke is white is curious, smoke from oil should be blue. If the fuel is contaminated with water, not sure it would run well enough to produce that much smoke.
    #7
  8. bamaroll29

    bamaroll29 n00b

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    Thanks for the advice everyone! I only got this bike for $100 and it was meant as a project to learn about dirtbike engines, so it's been alot of fun diagnosing and learning everything about them. Got to start somewhere, right?

    Anyways, I have read alot about the KE100 oil pumps quit working over time. I would like to start pre-mixing the oil, can anyone recommend a good mixture ratio to start with?

    Also, I have ordered the crank oil seal for the right side. I assume once I remove the rotary valve cover, I should be able to see the seal and use a hook to pull it out. I am just nervous about the removing the actual rotary valve (if this is necessary to get to the seal), because I heard that it has to be re-timed if so.

    On a side note, if the oil seal doesn't fix the problem, I was thinking it could be the piston rings. Therefore, I need to buy a torque wrench. My problem is: The clutch plate bolts (6) require 37~43 IN-Lbs torque, the spark plug needs 18~22 FT-Lbs, the cylinder head bolts needs 16 FT-Lbs, and the magneto flywheel is 35 FT-Lbs.

    I don't have alot of money to spend on two expensive torque wrenches, a In-Lbs and a Ft-Lbs. Are there any accurate ones that test for both? Or would I be alright getting two harbor freight click types, or possibly 2 craftsman beam types? Any suggestions are appreciated. Be easy on me...I'm new to all this stuff..but it fascinates me and I really wanna learn everything there is to know. Thanks!
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  9. bamaroll29

    bamaroll29 n00b

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    And also, if I were to premix it, would I just disconnect the wire from the throttle cable that clamps on the oil seal? Or is there more to it?
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  10. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    pre-mix 32:1 or so

    you will need to investigate where that oil pump feeds - if iJUST feeds the carb, just disconnect and plug the lines.

    rings have nothing to do with why it smokes. the only other thing i could think of is if the crankcase halves are not sealed well it could be pulling oil in from the bottom end but that's a long shot..

    i would assume rotary valve is on a fluted part of the crank on this model - just mark the tooth and the rotary valve, and then just put it back on that tooth when you reassemble. simple. look at the parts fiche and see.

    buy one ft lbs torque wrench. google will convert in lbs to ft lbs for you.
    #10
  11. bamaroll29

    bamaroll29 n00b

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    Thanks for the reply. When you say mark the tooth, do you mean on the primary gear or once that's removed along with rotary valve cover, mark the tooth on the rotary valve itself? I saw a video on youtube of a KE100 and it looks like the rotary valve cover contains the oil seal on the inside, so that means once it is removed I wouldn't even have to remove the rotary valve cover or mess with marking the tooth correct? Or were you talking about the primary gear on the outside?
    #11
  12. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    ya made me look at the fiche.
    pull the primary gear that drives the clutch. it's keyed, so no need to mark anything.
    you may be able to replace the outer seal on the rotary valve cover after this step. and you;re done.

    but there's another potential leak issue - don't know how far you wanna go.. there is also an o-ring behind the rotary valve gear that could potentially leak.... but i seriously doubt that o-ring would cause enough of a leak to cause smoke - it would just mess with your air/fuel mixture - if o-ring failed it would allow fuel/air to suck into crankcase bypassing the rotary valve.. i would just assume it's the seal on the rotary valve cover...

    so to replace that o-ring if you want...

    remove rotary valve cover.
    there's a gear that the rotary valve rides on. you need to mark a tooth on that, and match it with a mark on the rotary valve. i believe the rotary valve gear should be keyed. if it's not you gotta not move anything, and make some marks..
    remove rotary valve and gear. see bushing with o-ring.
    #12