Question on KTM's tank material

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by meat popsicle, Dec 9, 2004.

  1. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Anyone know what KTM makes their tanks out of? Specifically the KTM 640 Adv.'s 27 liter tank. I am looking into repair materials and methods in the equipment forum.

    I thought I read somewhere that Acerbis makes the tanks but I am not sure about this.
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  2. overlandr

    overlandr Dystopist

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  3. Cat0020

    Cat0020 El cheapo

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    Both main tanks on my 2000 660 Rallye and 2002 LC4 Adv. have Acerbis stamped on them..
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  4. Loadedagain

    Loadedagain making chips

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    mine too :wave
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  5. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Alright.... so what does Acerbis make its tanks out of... PA, PC, PE... what?

    MTBE - mentioned - thought that was a flame retardant used in furniture:
    http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/AftermarketFuelTankFAQClassic.htm#Acerbis Details

    " HPN Tanks made by Acerbis : 43 liters (11.3 gal.), in white, red, blue, black or transparent for 735 to 998 DM and 148 DM for installation kit. Made of non-paintable material ("Philipps CL 50"), so you have to stick with these colors here. The HPN tank is also available in a Nylon-material (paintable), for 1048 DM plus the installation kit. These tanks have a fill sleeve that stucks out of the tank, so mounting a tank bag may be more difficult as usual (Same as with R 100 GS PD). You cannot check the oil level with tank on the bike. It only takes about 2 minutes to get the tank off. "
    http://www.micapeak.com/bmw/gs/gs_acces.html

    another with same info as above:
    http://www.roadkill.com/~davet/moto/gastank.review.html

    - Hmmm, nylon - that does sound right for what you see under the paint :cry :lol3 - does that sound right? :ear
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  6. markjenn

    markjenn Long timer

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    What failed?

    Mine has a failed right "ear" (that mates to the right/upper support donut) - the previous owner said it started leaking after a crash. He epoxied it and removed the mount from the bike to not put any further pressure on it. I went further and shimmed/padded the frame backbone to use the tank's saddle hump to further distribute the load. It seems to be a premanent fix - no problems in many thousands of miles.

    - Mark
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  7. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    No failure, just some cosmetic repairs after my asphault inspection. :evil

    See: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62059

    I am looking to repair some scratches and minor gouges from a slide prior to repainting. So if you know, is the tank nylon??? :ear

    If you do have trouble with that you might want to find a plastic welder to fix it for ya. Supposedly a good job will be good as new! :thumb
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  8. rapiti

    rapiti IOR Veteran

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    Mine is painted, and I have always believed it to be nylon. Not positive, but that's my story, and I'm sticking to it.
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  9. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Ah, a "faith-based" response... :lol3

    Seriously though, with the paint off :cry and the scrapes and gouges :cry :cry it looks like nylon...

    to an untrained eye. :rolleyes
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  10. ChrisC

    ChrisC Amal sex?

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    Hey Carne de Palo,

    MTBE is Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether, it's an octane booster recently banned for contaminating groundwater....

    Still not sure what our tanks are made of (laminated Austrian gnome skins?)...

    CC
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  11. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Oopsie, I was thinkin of PBDE... can't even claim dislexia! :lol3

    I am guessing nylon - Australian gnomes are not so tough!
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  12. Scoot Jockey

    Scoot Jockey BST Faithful

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    Mr. Popsicle,

    Don't quote me on this, but I remember reading on the German forum that our tanks are made of a P6 composite. I would bet that traditional auto body fillers(bondo,glazing compound) would work on it though, or you could add some material through plastic welding, and sand down the area a bit to feather it out over a slightly larger area. Personally, I think it would be interesting to try my hand at making some carbon fiber guards to cover the damaged areas.

    Good Luck

    Scoot Jockey
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  13. rapiti

    rapiti IOR Veteran

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    Go nude :eek1
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  14. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    I am not taking all the paint off my tank rapiti... :lol3

    that is way too much work for a fashion statement.
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  15. Happe

    Happe Offroad Nut

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    Hi Meat,

    the Adventure Tank is from PA.

    The Rally tank and also the rear tanks are made from PE.

    Epoxi based fillers schould work for a little while on the Adventure tanks, if you really have to remove the marks of honour :wink:

    cheers

    Stefan
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  16. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    P6 composite eh? I have no idea what that is; have to search around on that. Thanks for the tip. :thumb

    Yeah, creeper did a great job with some CF guards to cover his rash - that is likely the best fix, however I am entertaining myself with the process of fixing the tank with somewhat native material (did you see my thread in Equipment? linked above).
    #16
  17. Gary

    Gary Another Adventure Rider

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    Meat Pop,

    I realize you are talking about a permanent and more structural fix that you can perform in the comfort of your garage, but just an FYI for anyone looking to patch a hole in one on the road, I'll offer the following:

    My LC4 and I took a little slide on a gravel road. Ground the corner of my 18l tank so thin there was a good 1/4" circle you could almost see through and fuel was leaking from one edge.

    Laid the bike over and cut out the thin circle of remaining material, and sanded around the edges to improve adhesion. Filled the hole with "fuel tank repair putty" that you buy at just about any auto store. The package says you can even use it on a wet, leaking tank. Looks like a jelly roll about 1/2" dia. and 4" long, with the center being a different color. You cut off whatever you need and then knead it until it is uniform in color. Stuff into the hole, leaving a little extra on the outside to grip the tank. Let it sit for about 45 minutes, and voila, tank was fixed, and it appears to be a solid fix. I also put a small bead of JB Weld around the edge where the putty stopped and the tank began, but probably wasn't necessary. Couple hundred miles of rough road since and no problems.

    I always include this tank repair putty, sandpaper and jb weld in my tool stash.

    On a side not, I also broke my shifter, but was able to fix it by attaching a 5mm allen wrench with a couple of fuel line clamps and a bead of JB Weld, also worked fine for the next couple hundred miles. The replacement shifter cost me $46, so I'm keeping the repaired one as a spare!

    Gary
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  18. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Thank you Stefan! I don't want to use epoxy stuff; I am looking for layperson repairs that are as close to PA as possible. Did you see my Equipment thread linked above? There is discussion of plastic welding and ski/snowboard (P-Tex) based repairs at the moment. Thanks for a piece of the puzzle! :thumb

    So polyamide (PA) is the paintable stuff and polyethelene (PE) is not? I think that is it; found some evidence for this:

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  19. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Excellent advice Gary! :thumb have you tried to remove it for a more permanent or asthetic fix? May I translocate this to the equipment thread where I am discussing some techniques to fix plastic tanks? :ear
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  20. Gary

    Gary Another Adventure Rider

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    MP,

    I havn't tried to remove it, but I was going to consider that before spring arrives. I thought I would let it ride just to see how "permanent" it really is.

    I was at least going to file/sand it a little to remove the gloppy look, but it's not too bad as it is. Hard to notice until you look close.

    You can move this to anywhere you think it would be more useful to others.

    Gary
    #20