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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Jan 1, 2013.
Probably what Jim posted. This tape was a leftover from water heater replacement, I used it on the gas line. It came from Home Depot.
Just did this today as part of my 24,000 mile service on my 2008 R1200GS Adventure.
[As an aside, what shouldn't be all that much of a service is turning into a major affair. I'm also replacing a ton of badly corroded bolts, and while I have that much of the thing apart I'm taking out the OEM ESA suspension and swapping in the Wilbers I've had on the shelf for a rainy day--actually, rescued from my old '05 GS that I traded in for the Adventure). ]
In any case, I just wanted to note that on the '08 Adventure the gas rings are both located on the top front of the gas tank, with one disconnector on each side. The left ring has the fuel pump, based on what appear to be heat-dissipating fins, and not really sure what the right ring does, but each had one quick disconnecter.
I didn't have any cracks visible, but one of the plastic disconnectors broke in my hand when I gave it a moderately forceful bend. :eek1 Glad I have the steel ones on there now. All in all not too difficult a job at all.
Now, back to my rusty bolts.
Not to hijack the thread, but have you tried Pine-Sol on reconditioning your bolts? I don't know what kinda guam you are dealing with, but straight Pine-Sol will give old rusted bolts a look as though they have been zinc coated!
Leave them in overnight and wash them off with soapy water and rinse. Oh, and don't leave the Pine-Sol open to the air. The smell will give you the vapors as bad or worse than other solvents.
I appreciate the tip. At this point, though, if I can manage to get them out of the engine, I'm just going to replace them with stainless. I can buy the stainless metric bolts just down the street, and I have to believe that if the OEM bolts rusted this bad in the first 24,000 miles they'll probably do the same or worse in the next 24,000.
Hey guys. I've read through this whole thread and see a couple of guys have tried using the Permatex 59214 instead of Mike's recommended 56521. I have completed my second go around with the provided Gasolia.
For both attempts I made sure the threads were cleaned with carb cleaner and a brush then fully dried. I applied the Gasolia after allowing it to cure for a 1/2 hour the first time and an hour and a half the second time. I then put it all together and waited 30 hours on the first attempt and 48 hours on the second. The results were the same. As soon as I turned the bike over a leak appeared around the Gasolia that was contained by the installed clamp. I only mention all this to let you know I am not a complete ID10T. My question really is about the thread sealant.
I live in Eastern Canada and am having a difficult time tracking down Permatex 56521. I can get hold of the 59214 quite easily but would like to know if anyone has any more feedback, good or bad, or opinions of the 59214 they could share?
I've used Permatex 59214 for other applications and it should work about as well as the 56521 the primary difference being that it can some higher temperatures than the 56521.
I have a 1.69 oz (50 ml) tube of Permatex Thread Sealant #56521.
It has been used once to seal two metal QDs that I installed on my 12GS (which also had the flange cracks). There is plenty more in the tube (at least a dozen and probably many more QDs), and at the cost of some $17+ for the tube, it is a shame to go to waste.
We ought to 'pass it around'.
If you need some, let me know.
For $5 and shipping its yours.
Then you can make similar arrangements with the next inmate.
Just a follow up on my request.
Thanks for the offer ceej, I managed to find some Permatex 56521 locally and it seems to have done the trick. I've had the bike on a 1/2 hour run and no signs of leaks for the past couple of days.
A big thanks to everyone here for helping out and sharing your knowledge. Jim if you ever get Northeast into Canada I owe you a beer.
What happened to this thread? Five months worth of posts disappeared.
Started converting my newly recalled and installed fuel pump to metal BBY metal QD's. The pump was installed with a new, plastic, female QD that was WAY tighter than "Hand tightened and another half turn" as the install of the metal one is described here. In fact, I almost thought I wouldn't be able to get it out as the plastic of the hex for the wrench was beginning to round. Slow, steady pressure broke it free and it came out without issue.
What is interesting, is that it was installed, presumably yesterday, with the plastic QD using some sealant that looked like congealed whiteout that we oldsters used to use for typing typos I mention this because as a new install, it was fresh and most people probably convert years afterwards and consistency would probably change. It seemed to be like a liquid Teflon type of stuff.
Anyway, a question before I try the metal QD- could their cranking the plastic one in caused any damage? It was too dark for me to see or continue...
I am assuming the new pump flange has the factory metal ring on it? If so I don't think the fitting being tight will have done any damage. Hard to say if it was too tight or the sealant used caused the difficulty getting it out.
Ok, thanks Mike....
Basically, the plastic QD was tightened so that the hex part of the QD was seated down to the top of the flange. Yes, this has the BMW ring, so the hex part is very slightly recessed down inside.
Should I expect that the metal QD will seat against the top of the flange as well?
This whole design of the pump is absurd. Hopefully the cost of the recall will generate some lessons learned in the Fatherland... I've said it before- I have a K100RT I've owned for 28 years with the original pump working just fine- made of metal with nipples for real hoses. Good engineering is timeless.
When you buy a new or get the recalled new pump flange , does it come with the quick disconnect already installed from the factory. When i look at the max bmw parts fische the picture shows it already installed.?
Ill be happy with that if it doesnt leak. I cant get anything to seal the plastic threads on the old one.
The metal QD should install the exact same way as the plastic. Have not seen one installed in a new flange with the metal factory ring yet though.
My new pump came with a new female plastic QD. I can't be positive if it came installed as a unit, but my comments are based on how "fresh" and tacky the sealant that was on it looked and felt.
Does anyone know the spec of the pump pressure that we try to overcome with sealant? It can't be that high...
The ring makes the mating face of the flange very slightly recessed into it which also slightly affects getting to it with a wrench. I personally would like, to use the proper scientific terms, a more "gummy" sealant than just a "tacky" one if possible....
I installed the QD's with no issue. The sealant that was used either at the factory or the dealer came out spotlessly with an old toothbrush and alcohol. I kneaded the daylights out of the gasoila mini-tube before opening, applied it and it was tacky within minutes in the 90 degree temps, I put the metal female QD in the pump by hand, and only turned it by wrench about 3/4 turn and it was seated against the flange face, which was exactly how the plastic one was (I took a picture before removing the plastic QD).
I downloaded the tech sheet from gasoila which clearly states set time is 24 hours. So patiently I buttoned up other items and closed the garage door for the night... 4:45 pm tomorrow will tell the story...
Awesome, thanks for the write up and feedback. Carefull prep and cleaning is really the key.