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Discussion in 'Vendors' started by Dan Cãta, Oct 20, 2010.
I sent you a PM but didn't include the manuf. date of my 1150GS - November 1999.
PM'd you back.
Dan, need both sides please, and thank you in advance....
I've sent you a PM on this.
I had a hec of a time getting my RS body apart. Get it apart I did though, and now I have even bigger problems getting it back together...
Mine is a 2003 1150 GS Sport. The throttle bodies are labeled BING 75/ and then in smaller numbers 45/110...
Mine have the recently mentioned pressed on pulleys, so putting it back together with the original shaft is pretty much out of the question at this point. The pulley side of the body had no "thinner washer" as per the instructions. Also it differed from the reassembly instructions in that the butterfly screws were inserted from the engine side rather than the airbox side. So far, these are no big deal, but I mention them in case they point to me having the wrong kit?
Here are the bigger deals. The machined flats on the spindle to accept the pulley appears to be too long. It extends about 0.5 mm beyond the pulley, so there is no way the kit-supplied washer will secure the pulley, even if the screw apparently intended for this purpose was not a good 3 mm from tightening against the washer/pulley when it bottoms out in the threaded hole on the end of the spindle. Both the spindle flat and the retaining screw are way too long...
I figured I could file down the end of the spindle and cut off the screw with my Dremel as necessary, but first I wanted to trial fit the rest of the parts...
I found that I was unable to insert the butterfly fully into the spindle. Removal of the components and an examination revealed that though the butterfly can be fully inserted into the spindle, the screw holes are too close together to accommodate the holes in the butterfly (by about a half a hole). Since this did not account for my inability to fully insert the butterfly in the throttle body, I tried again. I found that the machining of the slot does not extend sufficiently toward the pulley side of the body (even with the spindle fully inserted from the cap side as allowed by the c-clip and washer) to accomodate the full width of the butterfly...
It appears I can remove material inside the spindle cutout for the butterfly with a hacksaw, but it will be very close as the whether or not this allows me to insert the two retaining screws. Comparing the new and old spindles to one another, the holes in the new spindle are between 1 mm and 2 mm closer together, so that under the best case scenario would the screws match the holes in the butterfly, and then just barely. There is no wiggle room side to side as a result...
Speaking of those screws, they are way too long to stake over as per the instructions. However, the kit contains little nuts sized to fit them. Is it the idea that the nuts are screwed on after full assembly as locking nuts?
Has anyone else had these issues? Reading the above, it sounds as this has all gone much smoother for others...
I took pictures that illustrate all the above, but I doubt I will be able to post them. Hopefully, my descriptions make sense...
Lester, I replied to your email.
eMail response sent... Thank you Dan!
Great Product! I installed the right side TB rebuild kit this afternoon. 2002 R1150GS Adventure. The rattle at idle is gone. Thanks Dan, for a well thought out kit. I was able to remove the old bushings without any trouble by using a 9mmx1.0 tap threaded 4 turns into the old bushing. This got a good bite and I used a 5/16"X4" bolt from the opposite side to tap the bushing out. I had to file a bit out of the slot in the new shaft to allow the plate to float for adjustment, but all in all it went very well, and I am pleased with the results.
A tap works just fine for removing the old bushings, but I figured a screw extractor kit was cheaper to purchase than a tap set.
I'm glad you got it working
Just replaced a set with the kit i received from Dan Cata, very simple to do, works flawlessly, Thanks Dan Cata
ooooppps , fast fingers
I'm glad you got it sorted
Left and Right for a 2002 1150 gsa please shipped to 42135.
So, I ordered my Kit, Recived it about 15-ish days after payment, which included the Easter public holiday weekend.
It was as described and simple to do with the exception of removing the old bushing.
I tried the Heat + Bolt + Copper Wire but it refused to come out. The next day I tried plastic Cable Tie and bolt but still didn't come out.
I priced a M10 Tread cutter to Cut it's way in and remove the old bush but they where a little on the high price side (Not so much though).
Finally I thought about a broken bolt remover. It was $8. Some places call them screw extractors?
ABOVE: Screw Extractor digs into the Bushing and makes it very easy to pull out.
It came out EASY with this and the rest of the job was VERY simple.
Somthing not many people are talking about, and maybe it's obvious, but for any Newby out there wanting to do this, Dont forget you WILL need to Throttle Body Sync afterwards, and if you do the Left side (?) you will need to do the ZERO=ZERO job for the position sensor.
A Big Thanks to Cata Dan for making this fantastic Kit. Much cheaper then paying someone else to rebuild my units.
Yes, I mentioned before that the best way to remove the old bushings is via an extractor kit. I found out that later, after trying using a screw.
Regarding the 0=0, that should not be necessary unless you alter the stopping screws. The spindles I make are the same as on the bike. If the plate does not rest on the stopping screw, it's most probably because the butterfly plate is not centered perfectly inside the TB.
I'm glad you got yours working fine.
Struggled getting everything right with the zero & sync (noob) but the rebuild went well, also struggled a bit with removing bushings. Large plastic tywrap cut to size to find the sweet spot, its all in a nicely labeled bag now for the next 50k rebuild. Another merit badge!
Thanks Dan, nice work...
I finally bit the bullet and did the rebuild on both TBs. I was nervous because I had the throttle body pulleys with the shafts pressed into them. When I compared the ends of the shafts supplied by Dan I noticed that they were significantly smaller. I shouldn't have worried though because his fit perfectly.
I also used a 4" C Clamp to press the new bushings in. I felt I had more control than using the hammer method.
One word of caution.... I thought I had the butterfly valve in the TPS side TB centered because it open and shut with ease. Once I put the TPS on the TB the butterfly valve no longer would shut. I had to re-center the butterfly valve with the TPS mounted to the TB in order to get the correct orientation.
I now have two good as new TBs and for the first time in 40K miles I was able to have them synced at both idle and at 3500 RPM with ease. A big thank you Dan for coming up with this kit. Here are a few clarification pictures that I took that might help others out.
TB with a pressed in shaft
How to remove the Aluminum Cap
Using a C Clamp to press in the bushing
Thanks all for the reviews
Left and Right for a 2002 1150 RT please shipped to 39402.