R 1100/1150 GS/RT/RS/R/S throttle body repair kit

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by Dan Cãta, Oct 20, 2010.

  1. KNanthrup

    KNanthrup Adventurer

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    Issaquah, WA
    I received Cata Dan's kit and installed it last weekend. The kit was perfect, thank you very much.

    The install was very straightforward EXCEPT for the bushing part. I did have an extremely difficult time extracting the bushings, which eventually required me to purchase a thread tap kit and a couple more hours of frustration. Other than that, everything else was super quick and easy, and it sure quieted the bike and made it run/idle better!
  2. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

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    11,019
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    Dan,

    Have you ever considered machining other parts for the boxer such as a transmission input shaft with a longer spline to fill the clutch female spline?

    Also, how about some glass cam tunnel covers for the 259 engine. The plastic ones are not very pretty.
  3. Joker_-_

    Joker_-_ 2002 BMW R1150GSA

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    Québec, Canada

    Hey there, I thikn I'm having the same problem (pulley that's punched onto the shaft --> no "thinner washer". I'm ok withe the pulley but I'm wondering what to do without that "thinner washer"...

    Dan?
  4. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer

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    The 1150 and some 1100 do not have that one, so you don't need it. My tutorial was made around a set of early 1100 bike, hence the confusion.

    Thanks,
    Dan.
  5. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer

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    Will consider it ;)

    Dan.
  6. staikosn1

    staikosn1 Adventurer

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    Greece
    Got the package and the job is done!!
    Thank you very much Dan....
  7. Joker_-_

    Joker_-_ 2002 BMW R1150GSA

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    Québec, Canada
    Thanks Dan. Other than the metal bushings, everything went fine. People, don't waste your time and buy a screw extractor. It works like a charm.
  8. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer

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    Yep, a screw extractor is what I use every time. And those are ~ cheap around here...

    Thanks,
    Dan.
  9. mneblett

    mneblett Professional Lurker

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    I started disassembling the right throttle body from my '04 RT in preparation for installing Dan's kit. I hit a snag when trying to remove the staked-in shaft from the pulley -- it does not want to let go. Tried both heat and freezing overnight (thinking the brass would contract more than the steel pulley).

    Before I start drilling out the end of the shaft with tiny drill holes to relieve its grip on the pulley, anyone have a better idea for getting the shaft out?
  10. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer

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    You don't have to drill anything out. Just punch the old shaft out of the pulley, using something < 5mm in diameter. The brass on the spindle is way softer then the pulley, so you won't damage anything ;)

    Dan.
  11. mneblett

    mneblett Professional Lurker

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    Thanks, Dan -- I've whacked pretty good with no movement, so I was checking in before I really start going after it.
  12. mneblett

    mneblett Professional Lurker

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    Well, after more solid shots to the shaft without it budging a micron, I put the shaft in my drill press and drilled a hole just a bit smaller than the shaft across the flat. I went in about 3/4", both to remove shaft metal to loosen the pulley's grip, and to make room for a small Phillips screwdriver to be inserted and held straight.

    Between the reduction in the compression in the shaft at the pulley from the hole, and the focused, straight shots delivered via the screwdriver, the shaft came out with minimal effort -- 2 or 3 light hits on the screwdriver and it was out.

    The rest of the work on the right throttle body went fine, and I end the night with a like-new-feeling TB. :D Left TB tomorrow evening!

    Thanks again, Dan -- great kit. I'll likely be ordering another soon for another pair of TB's I have lying around.
  13. mneblett

    mneblett Professional Lurker

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    Last post, with one hint.

    Left throttle body done, in 1/3 the time of the right TB.

    One suggestion when doing the left TB: Measure the resistance across pins 1 and 4 of the throttle position sensor before disassembly with a digital ohmmeter. When you reassemble the TB, you can use the measured resistance as a target for adjusting the TPS.

    In my case, my DVM showed 0.962 kOhm, and I was able to get it back to 0.964 kOhm -- so at least I know I'm in the right ballpark. .964 was as close as I could get after several tries -- the amount of motion to change the resistance +/- .01 kOhm is in the sub-thousandths range -- very sensitive, and changes as you tighten down the two T20 Torx screws. After a while you get a feel for how far off to move the TPS with the screws loose to end up at the right place once tightened.
  14. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer

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    But you do have to re-adjust the TPS after you are doing the L/H side. You can either use a GS911 diagnose unit (if you have one), or the tutorial in the HoW, where you set the TPS to have voltage across pin 1 and 4 of .37V.

    As a reminder, for 1150 bikes, you have to re-teach the motronic the TPS position. Remove fuse #5(as you sit on the bike, from left side to right, 5th fuse), ignition on, ignition off, put back fuse #5, ignition on, twist the throttle 3 times, start the bike. This is not needed for 1100 users, except r1100s, which is actually an 1150 engine.

    In case you are trying to set the TPS to the correct voltage using a GS911 unit on a 1100 bike that has motronic version 2.2, you might not succeed from the first try. That is because the TPS is very sensitive and you end putting it to let's say 1V(if you were to measure the voltage using a DVM). Because of that, the diagnose unit will not work in setting the TPS.

    What I do is to set it using the DVM, and then adjust(if needed), using the GS911. Go wide open throttle a few times and let it snap in order to get consistent readings and you are good to go.

    Also, a thing that I found out it helps in setting the TPS is to screw in the 2 small screws gently, until I can feel they touch the TPS and then, adjust the TPS by slightly tapping it. This way, when I screw in the allen screws, the voltage reading does not modify.

    Hope it helps.

    Dan.
  15. mneblett

    mneblett Professional Lurker

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    Thanks, Dan -- I absolutely will be checking/adjusting voltage; the above notes are intended to help folks ensure they are at least "in the ballpark" when they bolt the TB back in place.
  16. Aaci0r

    Aaci0r n00b

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    Hey Dan. I was thinkink what's happened with my 1150 and... Yeah. That's my first bike from 21 century. It's not so easy but this bike running ;-). Ok. I need your repair kit. Is there possibility to get one? With manual instruktion how to do it offcourse. And whats the price is now. Thx.
  17. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer

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    I'll sned you a PM on this.

    Thanks,
    Dan Cata
  18. arrcrussell

    arrcrussell Gimme Dirt

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    Dan, finally set the bike up for winter maintenance and completed the rebuild. All went well, per your instructions. No more clickety-clack!! I used a tap to extract the old bushings - a word of caution to others - don't go too far into the bushing and extend into the TB - I did and had to do a little clean up. Fortunately only on one bushing and very minor filing to get the shaft to return to the closed position without any resistance. Great product - thanks for putting it together! Rich
  19. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer

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    Nice job, glad you got it sorted ;)

    Dan.
  20. miro13mc

    miro13mc n00b

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2012
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    5
    Hi Dan. I've got your the throttle body repair kit for my BMW R 1150 GSA, 2004.
    I have the same situation as the user "LandLocked" (on the 6 th page) and according to this, the same question for you. Want to ask you, for what are those 4 small M3 screws with lock nuts, and those 2 small O-rings in your kit?
    Can you please forward me the same mail as you send to user "LandLocked" ?
    My e-mail is: mirolisjak@gmail.com
    Thank you in advance.
    Greetings from Croatia!