R 1100 GS Bearings that should be replaced

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by strsout, Sep 24, 2013.

  1. strsout

    strsout Banned Camp

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    I'm working on my 1998 R1100GS and reading here seams that bearings from the final drive have failed now end them.
    Were I'm leaving now, it's hard to find those parts, so I'm doing a preventive measure and planing on replace the final drive bearing and also the front well.

    Any recommendations on that from who already did it, or experience this failure?

    Tks.
    #1
  2. ragtoplvr

    ragtoplvr Long timer

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    How many miles.

    Do you have any slack.

    The bearings can last a long time. Replacing a good bearing does nothing, it can actually decrease reliability unless you verify the shimming.

    So tell us the miles, put on center stand and check for slack.

    Rod
    #2
  3. strsout

    strsout Banned Camp

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    It has about 40K miles and has no slack. I understood your point on replacing it w/o need could bring a bigger issue and agree.
    Any how, I'm planning a long trip for December, going down to Ushuaia and there, I will be about 4K miles for the nearest part dealer. I'm thinking that this part should be pack at my home, ready to ship if I need it.
    #3
  4. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    Pack a spare bearing/seal and the small cheap slightly modified puller, won't take much room. Learn the shade tree way of replacing them bearings just in case....go ride South.:clap
    #4
  5. Welshman

    Welshman B.U.F.F.

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    What year 1100 pre 97 gearboxes had bearing issues, post 97 one of the best boxers:D
    #5
  6. strsout

    strsout Banned Camp

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    H96669, you or somebody has any extra info on this, like: where can I find information about this Modified Puller?, Do we have a tread on How to Replace the Rear End Bearing? (could not find with this name on search, but I'm sure you have one), Do I need anything else then the bearing the the seal? Is the oil easy to find?

    Tks.
    #6
  7. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

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    Oh boy...lots to learn here. I would not tear into my FD just yet...especially if your planning a long trip. Usually, a FD that has not had a failure at 40,000 miles will go 80,000 miles without concern, maybe even more.

    The oil is available from most any autoparts store and should be removed and inspected before your trip. Any name brand GL-5 gear lube of the correct viscosity is fine. Inspect and change the transmission oil too. Use the same oil for both the FD and transmission.
    #7
  8. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    All the puller is is a slightly modified for better engagement 3" three jaws puller. $12.00 or so. Then you need a centering bushing to help hold it in the center of the bearing flange. A little heat...bearing should come right off. A little heat and some cold, should go right back in.

    At least works well that way on my practice rear drive.:wink:

    There are a few threads on here, someone can dig them up. I'll show the tool tomorrow.

    One here:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234400&page=7

    There...watch that first:

    http://www.bmwlt.com/uploads/lt_final_drive_rebuild.wmv
    #8
  9. gsweave

    gsweave Yinz, blinkers are on, JACKWAD!

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    98 wasn't a problem year...

    a set of tire irons will pull the bearing if need be. dry ice will install replacement.

    Just ride on


    I shade treed mine in Colorado. 02 machine

    ate itself right at 48,000 miles. Just fyi
    #9
  10. Djunta

    Djunta Been here awhile

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  11. OzRob

    OzRob Been here awhile

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    If it is not broke...why replace it,
    My 1998 R1100GS has done 322000km....no issues with the wheel bearings or final drive bearings....I have changed the big outer seal about three times, and when I touring I take a spare.
    I do change the final drive gear oil every 10,000Km...still looks new with no metal on the drain plug....320ml of gear oil costs nothing.

    I would check the gearbox oil too see if it has metal flakes on the drain plug.
    #11
  12. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    Puller...comes off easy with the little one.3" three jaws with a little grinding of the legs to better grab the bearing.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Centering bushing so it doesn't walk, found something in the junk box.

    Packs small that puller if taken apart. Bought in Canada, same as the HF.

    Bearing flange will look different than yours for the ones that have seen one before from the R1100-50 GSs. That's my practice drive and from an R100GS but they share a lot of the same parts. Same bearing for sure. Haven't tried the puller on the other later drive I have here, maybe next winter but as far as I can see will work just fine.

    The shimming/preload is somewhat critical on them drives. But sure looks like the wrongly preloaded ones failed early. Anything with over 60,000 and not failed, such as my K that thinks it is a GS sometimes should be fine. Someone on here measured bearings and found next to nothing between their thicknesses.

    Still I keep an eye on the K,I shake that wheel every day or even kick it with my foot when I don't feel like bending down. Also getting good at removing the drain plug and inspecting without spilling any oil. Check plug....reinstall and I don't even need to top up.

    What you should look at is the part of the flange where the seal rides, I have two of them here showing signs of corrosion. On one of them the corrosion creeped in and compromised the seal. Was leaking for sure, the shipper from fleabay shipped full of oil, neighbor left my package at home, came back a few weeks later to a nice smelly mess.:eek1

    That brings me to a vendor here who was offering fill plugs with an easily removeable dipstick type magnet. Allowed you to check for bearing chaff in just a few minutes. I can't find his link in the vendor's forum, if anyone has seen that little farkle let me know.:wink:
    #12
  13. strsout

    strsout Banned Camp

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    Thank you for the pictures H96669.
    I will try to find that tool and buy it. Seams a good one to have. Friends around may need it as well! :)
    #13
  14. Chat Lunatique

    Chat Lunatique aka El Gato Loco

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    Rule #1 - If it ain't broke...don't fix it!

    Might I humbly suggest that you pack the bearing and seal with you if space permits. 4k miles to the nearest dealer? Also it can be many, many miles to the nearest UPS/DSL depot in places.
    #14
  15. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    :roflHad to answer a few PMs last time I posted such a pic. All good go to Harbor Freight. Princess Auto for Canadians.

    Look at that, don't know if they have the single 3" but the 3 pullers kit is sure cheap and the 4" may just be a better fitment. If it stops raining I'll be on my way to Spokane later this week for some shopping.:clap

    http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-three-jaw-puller-set-8832.html
    #15
  16. Ridin'nFishin

    Ridin'nFishin Been here awhile

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    My R1100GS has a little side to side slack, does that mean it needs new bearings? If I were checking one of the wheels on my KLR and it felt like that, I would change the bearings.

    No noises, no leaks. 60000 miles.
    #16
  17. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

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    You may want to remove the oil seal and inspect the crown wheel bearing to insure all the cage rivets are intact and there is no obvious damage.

    Also, inspect the oil that you drain from your FD. I would also flush the FD with ATF to insure no debris remains behind then refill with fresh GL-5 of recommended viscosity.

    Also, inspect the FD pivot bearings for wear/damage, renew or adjust preload as necessary.

    Enjoy your trip.
    #17
  18. Ridin'nFishin

    Ridin'nFishin Been here awhile

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    Thanks, I will check it out.
    #18