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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by nella, Jul 7, 2010.
You're likely right about that San Jose brace. I'll keep my eye out for one.
Yes, stock paint on both. The tank could use a re-spray, but from ten feet away the tank looks fine. I tend to think that the tank and seat are rare enough and I'll leave them alone.
Another trick that I'd try would be to slot the pressed steel fender mounts holes. Then you could change the angle or height real easy.
Those SJ braces are just to bothersome to get mounted right and I'm so lazy!
Brilliant! I'll give it a shot.
That is one solution to lowering the fender, but the cool metal fenders ala triumph, norton etc are much narrower than that brace. I don't see how it'd be possible to mount the fender on top of it, and can't imagine it looking any good below.
If I remember correctly, those fenders are (Or were.) aluminum and if thats the case a little judicious work with a BF hammer, a sandbag and then a little judicious bending, should have things working in a flash!
OK... I'll admit that you do have a good point but then again, didn't those old Brit bikes run narrower tires (And thus fenders.) than our Airheads do? I just cant remember anymore. (but then again, there are a lot of things slipping through the cracks these days.) The point is, your tire and the fender need to look like they belong together and the owner has to like how it looks.
Also, the SJ brace would set the fender at the same height as the stock mount, so the solution might be to decide on whatever you/he/we think is a snazzy fender and then make up a brace that'll work. Either way, thats one of the focal points of the whole project and for the bike to hang together visually, you need to get that (Among other things.) right. Seriously... In the end it's these little details that make or break a motorcycle project and it's hard to spend too much time getting them "right".
Oh well, If you're lucky, someone'll give you the perfect fender for free!
A trip through Vanzen's Rocker Boxer site might be in order. Lots of kool cafe bike ideas over there! http://www.rockerboxer.com/at_large_1.html
I think you will find you may have the mudguard bracket fitted back to front.
I think you are right, in the the first photo it looks normal.
I'm not a fan of abbreviated or no fenders myself, they perform a function, even in nice weather. All the sand, dirt, debris will sandblast the front of the bike. In rain, you'll get to ride through a water fountain. A bike I bought many moons ago had that done, wasn't worth it.
The tire profile will make a difference too, I put the stock size on after many years of running the popular oversized stuff and noticed the stock size was narrower and taller. It handles better now too.
One word on slotting out that stock fender brace, that mofo is HARD. I switched to Brembos but never like those braces, flat black stamped out look, and missed my nice shiney stainless one. Plus, it would look much better since I polished out my Telefix brace. But it puts the fender way high.
So I cut about 3/4" inch off and drilled new holes. It took a looong time (yes, I know how to drill metal). Sumbitch is tougher than it looks!
I've seen airheads with metal fenders, so that's where I'm speaking from. It totally changes the look; more than you'd ever think. If you buy the new stainless fenders (like a pal who restored a couple Triumphs lately) expect to pay a LOT. But I don't recall how they were mounted, I'm sure there must be some pix on the net that would help.
Yeah, those braces are rugged, and the stainless ones are the coolest.
This fellow will make fenders to order out of what I gather is aluminum, is something like this what you had in mind as far as the look?
You might be right. I need to go take a closer look. I know I installed it and then reversed it because I thought I had it backwards.
You must have bought Paul Hahns Lesters. Below are a couple pictures of his early '77 R100RS (40mm exhaust) with the widened rear Lester.
The bottom end on Pauls engine failed a several years ago. It had ~220,000 miles on it including several seasons of racing (note the orange & white AMA tech inspection sticker on the upper fairing panel above the turn signal in the first picture below).
Those Bridgestones he had on the wheels when he was selling them had low miles, but they have to be 7 years old at this point in time - I would change the tires next season after you get the bike sorted out. The rim was widened offset to fit a larger tire in the swing arm, but if I remeber correctly only to 3. The Battlaxs run small, so if you stick with them, the 140/80-18 is a good size. If you change manufactures, I would go with a 130/80-18 on a 3" rim. Measuring the 140/80-18 Battalax vs. an Avon 130/80-18, both mounted in 3 rims, the Battlax was only a bit wider. On 2 front tires that we measured, a 100/90-19 Battlax was the same width as an Avon 90/90-19. The comment someone made earlier about watching profiles is very important. You want to use a rear tire that has an overall diameter of at least 26 to keep the back end up. Your steering will be noticeably slowed going with a smaller diameter/profile tire in the rear (you are dropping your back end height).
Thanks for the history of the wheels and suggestions on the rear tire. I knew they had some age on them.
Also, thanks for posting those pics, looks like he had that bike sorted out very nicely. I've been working this week on getting my RS cowl and rear light set up like that.
I just road to Hyder AK and mostly saw, HD's and ADV bikes, but mine captured the interested minds.
These are very cool bikes.
Really nice work on this bike Scott.
Finally had some time to get back out in the garage tonight:
Went on a bit of a parts selling spree and no longer have the stock instrument cluster... I'm going with and electronic speedo. This little guy will plug the speedo cable hole at the back of the transmission.
I'm doing a fork swap to a set of late model GSXR inverted forks and worked today on adapting the Suzuki clutch lever to work with the BMW clutch cable. Fortunately, this involved nothing more than drilling the adjuster on the lever to accept the larger diameter BMW clutch cable ferrule.
I am thinking about how to use the Suzuki push-pull throttle with the double-pull BMW cables and that is going to be a bit more challenging.
Today I finished the clutch lever modifications. I might have to add a bushing to extend the ferule out a bit, but I think it has enough adjustment to be able to adjust the clutch properly.
Next up is to tackle the throttle. The Suzuki has a push-pull throttle grip and that won't work on my 100/7 but it is easily adapted to a single pull but I need a double pull setup.
I decided to order a set of throttle cables for a mid-80's airhead that has an adapter that converts a single pull cable to a double pull:
I decided to go on and machine the parts to use the BMW single cables in the Suzuki throttle grip. These are rough right now but I don't want to spend more time on them until the cable set comes in to confirm I'm working with the right size cable and ferrule.
This week I hope to talk to a machine shop about making up an axle and spacers to use my Lester front wheel in these forks and to be able to bolt on these 310mm discs I have. I have drawn up the parts using Sketchup. This is one of those times I wish I owned something bigger than this mini lathe.
The machine shop finished by disc spacers today.
The axle is still a work in progress, but I hope to have it tomorrow.
Slightly off topic, but how about a little bit on your mini-lathe?
I always seem to think of little parts which could be made on a small lathe, but I haven't been brave enough to pull the trigger on one.