R100/7 cleaning up the wireing

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by honkytonking, Feb 8, 2013.

  1. honkytonking

    honkytonking whoo baby that was a doosie

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    So dont know excately how to go about this but reading a bit here and there i have been getting a bit more concerned about this rebuild lets here the experts and what have yous tell me whats up. I want to eliminate every piece of wireing and relays possible plan on only running rear lights headlight turn singles in the rear only. Im concerned about the charging system and its relay being needed to feed back to the gen any help would be great. i gotta put some pic on here soon im in the process of tearing down the motor for a complete rebuild powder coating the motor can any one say murder that bitch out !!!!!
    #1
  2. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    Do not compute....are you saying you want to remove all of the wiring except rear lights and headlights because you are worried about the charging system???? If that is a correct statement....my friend you've got bigger fish to fry......... 280 w is PLENTY of power for all lights and a little extra....the starter aint no power sippin' slouch neither. 'memeber when you told your mama...."mama, it hurts when I poke my eye" memeber what she said..."well, get yer damn finger out your eye."

    Seriously, don't remove wiring to solve a problem that doesn't exist. if you're doing it for simplicity sake, it isn't simple. Fix the charging problem if you have one, and leave the harness alone. Oh, we don't have a generator....well not really, we have an alternator which produces AC current.
    #2
  3. DaveBall

    DaveBall Long timer

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    I am with hardwaregrrl on this.

    BUT, I have assisted a few people that have done major cafe jobs on their bikes, and a part of the process was a total re-wire job. Basically we blew up the stock wiring diagram to poster size and stuck it to the wall of the garage. Then traced thru what we needed and eliminated what was not needed. We did not use stock gauges nor charging system. Everything was custom. Ended up with about 1/2 the wires and still kept the same amount of lights and stuff running. Even added a few extras like heated grips. A good part of the wires eliminated were extra grounds.
    #3
  4. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    :rofl :rofl

    1. If'n you want to ask fer advice, a little clearer language would help--you know, punctuation and such.

    2. Recently been there and done this--it's simpler in the end, but quite complicated in the process, be prepared for a lot of work. And I recommend a complete plan up front, before ANY work.
    #4
  5. boxerboy81

    boxerboy81 Stay Horizontal

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    These may or may not be useful to you if you're redoing your looms...

    [​IMG]
    I've used them recently to repair the loom from the instruments. Worked a treat and very tidy result. They're a little expensive for what they are but the job done appears very good.
    #5
  6. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    If there is solder on the inside and heat shrink wrapping on the outside how do you melt the solder and not burn off the heat shrink? A heat gun for the heat shrink is not going to melt the solder.
    #6
  7. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer

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    The solder melts at a much lower temperature than conventional solder.
    If they weren't so expensive I'd use them. Until they get cheaper I'll stick with heatshrink tubing.
    #7
  8. boxerboy81

    boxerboy81 Stay Horizontal

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    The idiot lights on my 11/1981 R100RS haven't worked correctly for ages. The OIL & GEN lights have always worked thankfully, but lately they've become temperamental and very sensitive to the position of the plug. Time for action.
    I planned to substitute the instrument plug and 8inches of wiring for one in better condition. I believed the wiring was the culprit, not the plug.

    Assembled the stuff required.
    1. Connectors with solder within them.
    2. Scissors
    3. Crimper/wire stripper.
    4. Heat shrink tubing.
    5. Stiff outer protective sheath.
    6. New (used) plug and wiring.

    [​IMG]

    Opened up the old cover, exposing the old wiring.
    [​IMG]

    Cut the old wiring. The point of no return. Committed.
    [​IMG]

    With a small degree of staggering, I connected the 10 wires via these butt connectors that have solder internally. The finishing heat shrink was over the loom ready to move into position and the connectors were placed onto one wire before they were connected, to be slid over the connection when ready.
    The wire width on the new bits were a smaller gauge than the original loom. The wires were stripped and the ends carefully interlocked before the connector was moved into position. Note the different sizes of the wiring.
    [​IMG]

    When all 10 were done, the heat gun was used to melt the solder...despite this next picture, the wires were held horizontal for that exercise to enable an even spread of the solder melt.
    [​IMG]

    The new outer heat shrink was moved into place...
    [​IMG]

    ...then I tested the lights before the final shrink.
    They all worked... :D
    [​IMG]

    Now I'll be able to see the instruments at night.

    This was quick and easy. Eventually I'll replace the whole loom, so this repair doesn't need to last forever
    .
    #8
  9. honkytonking

    honkytonking whoo baby that was a doosie

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    ok so daveball thats the direction i wanted to go. I love how the topic of conversation goes stray in fourms but regardless i like the idea to blow up the wireing diagram. cause its a bear to read in the book. Well any way a litttle more info about the bike the stock gauges have to go i dont need the netural light nor the oil light nor a any of the shit on that looks like ....... well ya know not what im going for. I understand that i might be getting a bit over my head but i dont ever give up on what i want. Daveball you say you used a different charging system i currently do not have any isue with it now why did you switch over. not doing heated grips btw
    #9
  10. DaveBall

    DaveBall Long timer

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    I changed charging system as diode board was shot and I wanted to be able to run more powerful lights. I run a headlight with an upgraded H4 bulb that is 80/100 watt made by Phillips. Don't know if they are still available. And add to that a set of 100 watt Bosch driving lights. That kind of maxed out the stock system real fast. So put in the Enduralast system. Works perfectly.

    I took a really good high resolution scan of the wiring diagram to a friend that has a big plotter. He blew it up and sharpened it a lot. Then printed it out at a bit larger than poster size. It really made things a lot easier to figure out what we really really needed, vs what was superfluous. As we created our wiring, and laid it up on the bike, routing to different spots, we used a lot of twist ties to hold things together in mock up. Once completed, we shrink tubed most of it, and taped up a few small spots that needed tighter bends. We soldered every connector and joint to ensure good contact.

    Over all, I think we saved a lot of wire and eliminated a lot of possible connector issues. That bike has done about 30,000 miles since and so far, no issues.
    #10
  11. honkytonking

    honkytonking whoo baby that was a doosie

    Joined:
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    A
    Awesome I'm going to do the blow up map thing most def solder and heat wrap only way to go
    #11