R100GS Question from Lima Peru Help!

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by Flyingavanti, Oct 23, 2005.

  1. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    Hello to all....

    I noticed my rear rim was etched on the right side. I removed the wheel and the housing for the drive line was also scratched also. It was probably a piece of road debris, I hope. But I am checking it out completely (we are heading into the remote areas of eastern Peru). When I rotate, by hand, the wheel from forward to reverse, it seems 100% correct, which I believe says the drive line is alright.

    The question I have is when I am on the left hand side of the bike and grab the wheel at 3 and 9 oclock I can move it 1 to 2 mms from side to side. Not a lot, but I want to be careful!

    Is this normal? If anybody could check their bike and respond, I would be very appreciative! There are no BMW dealers in Peru!
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  2. Ron Seida

    Ron Seida Adventman

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    ...checked mine, same thing. I'm not a qualified mechanic, but from what i've read and seen, that is average, as long as you are measuring 1-2mm at the tire, not the hub. Mine has done this since i bought the bike at 70k. miles, and hasn't changed for the last 30k. miles. I think your probably okay, as long as the driveline feels smooth.

    ...was just thinking, are you sure you don't have any play at your bevel-drive pivot? These bearings tend to wear out if not maintained. With the bike on its stand and the rear wheel in the air, loosen off the rear shock and give the whole bevel a good shake. You can even remove the rear shock ant move the bevel up and down through it's motion, check for looseness and rough bearings.

    BTW...Enjoy Peru!!:D:1drink:freaky:beer:dutch:ricky
    #2
  3. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    Thanks for the input, but I am not sure what you mean by bevel drive. THe entire arm is very tight. All the movement is from the rear boot back. ON the ground I get the 1 to 2 mm movement. In the air it moves around a little more in all directions, but all the movement is from the rear boot back. The swing arm feels great, as does the rotation of the wheel.

    Any feedback is appreciated...........
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  4. Steve G.

    Steve G. Long timer

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    It sounds as though your hub/swing arm bearings are worn. The one bolt on the left hand side, at the rear of the swing arm [big allen head bolt] is tightened first, at a high torque with loctite as I remember. The one that needs adjusting in on the right side. This tapered bearing, much like a cars wheel bearings, much be tightened progressively using the adjuster/lock nut. It will be the one on the right side underneath that rubber cap/cover. Yours is loose, and will have to be tightened.
    You may have slightly damaged the bearing, maybe both. They are little needle bearings, and like all new bearings, they are phenolic [plastic cages instead og brass], fragile as a result if asked to do duty if not beeded down. BMW is the only source, at a cost of $40 cdn each. They are easily renewed if you have ever tapped out/re-installed bearings at all.
    If you are heading out on a fair sized ride, it might be time to go in there, to check the universal joints, and lube up the splines on the drive shaft slide anyways, this can give you a true visual on these bearings when you pull the hub off. Stick your finger in them and rotate them. There should be no 'roughness', nice and smooth only.
    Don't ask how I know so much about this topic!! I've been right where you are now. Only in the middle of the boonies!!
    Ciao, Steve G.
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  5. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    Thanks for the response. I attempted to loosen the allen bolt which you reference yesterday, but left it alone because it would not move. If you are correct, the mechanic that took my bike all apart just prior to the trip "loctite'd it" and that is why I left it alone. I will be a little my aggressive with it to loosen it tomorrrow morning and then retorque to 10 pounds (I think that was the preload that it should have according to a mechanic I called yesterday). Again, I left it because it was soooo tight.


    Thanks Again Steve
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  6. Frank Warner

    Frank Warner Traveller

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    Caution.

    There are two sources of trouble;

    1) the pivot bearing that Steve has talked of. The adjustment has a large lock nut the must t be first undone - and that too may have loctite. The loctite should be heated BEFORE you try to move any nut/bolt.

    2) the bevel drive - this is what your wheel bolts to. If you have movement here then I'd check the oil, that can be drained from here, for any partials.
    #6
  7. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    Thanks.... Where the wheel attaches seems solid. All the movement seems to be where the rear boot is.

    Based on that, would you think the bearing adjustment would resolve the movement issue.......?

    And thanks for "heating of the loctite" before trying to loosen advice....
    #7
  8. Ron Seida

    Ron Seida Adventman

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    Just to be clear and avoid any confusion, there are two allen-head bolts that attach your bevel-drive to the swingarm housing. One is on the left side and is a 12mm. The other one is on the right side and is a 6mm allen-head with a 27mm backup nut. Loosen the 27mm nut, then you can adjust the bearing. If the nut has locktite on it, pull out the whole assembly and clean it. This will help with adjustmet of your bearing. If you don't have any locktite, don't worry. It's really not necesarry as long as you are vigilant in following through regular maintinence and keep a close eye on it. I don't locktite mine anymore and adjust the bearing every oil change.
    Once removed, you can check the bearing with your finger, turn it and see if it runs smooth. If it doesn't, it will still most likely get you to a destination where you can get a new one. Re-assemble everything with some grease, tighten the 6mm nut nut with light but firm preassure to re-seat the bearing, loosen off and tighten again to half of the preassure you used to seat it. This will keep you moving until you can replace the bearing, that is if it needs replacing.
    The 12mm allen head bolt should not be touched unless you plan on removing the entire beveldrive. You most likely won't be able to loosen it anyways, they are VERY tough to break loose.
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  9. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    The Internet and ADV Rider are too COOL!

    Did not sleep well last night worrying about the bike and how to fix it and what to do. To have a problem like this induces depression! BUT......

    Took all the advice and bought some tools this morning (like a 5 pound 18 inch 27mm wrench) and retorqued the bearing. Seems fine. No play! If the bearing is good, everything should be fine. Thanks to all for torque spec and blow ups of the drive line.

    Sincerely appreciated by Sandy and I
    #9