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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Oct 16, 2005.
Very nice, now get some of that plastic paint and colorize it, yellow, black or maybe both!
Just plow through a swarm of bees.
I made one for my buddy Ol Badger; his GS is silver/black so he was going to get the black paint. But yellow ....? Thanks for the prodding, Jim!
Why are your micatech's fitted with those power connectors? did i miss something in the text? to power your laptop or for accessory brakelights?
I've always though adding a strip of amber and a strip of red led's (like in this link to webbikeworld: http://www.webbikeworld.com/lights/motorcycle-led-light/led-light.htm would be a nifty idea!
the power is for charging stuff in that space.
My friend Kermit came over and showed off his newly colored Hella FF50 Lights.
I thought it a good opportunity to compare lights on each bike, so the following is my demo on my garage door.
HID Low beam only
Stock Low beam only
HID Low and High beam
Stock Low Beam (Note, Kermit has removed the cover on the tip of the bulb for better light).
Kermit's "yellow" FF50, painted with craft store spray stained glass window paint.
HID (left) and stock, both High Beams, with yellow FF50s on the right.
As you can see the beam for the HID light is slightly more scattered, mostly horizontally, but has a very similar line and height. I am very confident that the HID wont be blinding.
This is an example of a cold flash to pass. The High Beam HID was dead cold, and I flicked it on. When warm from recent use, it is VERY much brighter on Flash to Pass mode.
Also, for those concerned about excessive flood of light outside of the beam pattern, here is what you get:
Virtually identical to the stock amount of scattered light.
PS Just a note, these are unretouched photos, and the camera made some adjustments based on the amount of light. The HID lights were significantly brighter than the pictures showed, but if you look at this picture:
You can get a better feel for the differences.
I have always disliked my old GPS mount. It was not very stable, and the GPS was partially covering the Tach. So, instead of a Migsel mount like Kermits that cost $150+ (beautiful workmanship and nice unit by the way), I decided to copy the idea, but do it on the cheap!
So, old mount:
So, instead of spending big bucks, I am running out after my recent home purchase, I decided to make my own. Perusing the hardware store I cam acriss this 3/8" thick shelf bracket.
This is a piece of what was left. I cut the one side to length (5"), and the short end to just long enough to thread safely, 3/4" from the bend outside radius. I drilled and tapped out the short end to fit a standard $7 Ram Mount I had lying around, then covered it all in liquid rubber to prevent rust, and scratches on the framework of the bike. Were I to do it again, I would paint it, and cover the lower parts in foam tape for protection. It would look a little better.
I used my TT cockpit cover and longer bolts to secure it under the cover.
Here you can see it peek out of the bottom under the TT cover. You could easily use a U-bolt, or a smaller flat piece of metal to hold it in place.
A few other angles of it:
I intend to reroute the wires, but it will have to wait for the tank to come off again since the wires are secured under the tank.
The yellow arrows show the two mounting bolts through the TT cover, and the blue arrow shows where I formarly had the GPS bracket mounted (it is designed for a Powerlet Plug).
This is my view of it. Right in my line of sight, without blocking any of the instruments, or the road. IMHO the perfect GPS position.
Total cost, $15 more than I already spent. From scratch, with the 2XXX garmin locking mount, wiring kit, and RAM components, about $70.
Nice job Jim - Honest pennytech to make something functional and permanent.
Some of my PennyTech Mods for my R1200GS
Also some other ideas for using the available storage space onboard
First up is the BACKPACK SEATBAG
This is the little backpack (daypack) that detaches from a larger backpack I used when I went to the USA
I made some straps with the opposite ends to what was attached to my little backpack, sat and thought for a few hours trying to figure out the best way to attach and route the clips / straps to each side and here is what I came up with. Simple and can be left on the bike.... it doesn't flap around in the breeze and the spare extra length of the strap allows for stuffing the backpack fuller ..... and the clips still reach the backpack.
Also I can / could place the backpack above something else this way and what ever is under the backpack is neatly secured as a bonus. Or vice versa I can remove the seat using the inbuilt rack under the seat and shorten the straps on the bike if needed. It was worth the drinking of rum and coke and the couple of hours fiddling ... as I ended up with a very versitile solution to carrying things before I purchased the top box I currently have on the bike.
But the seatbag / backpack still works with the top box for extra storage / carrying capacity when I need it.
Backpack straps tuck inside the back of the bag when not needed / fitted to the bike. Once off the bike, I just clip the straps to the bag and hey presto a normal backpack again!!!
It even has a carry handle up top if you don't need to use it as a backpack.
To make it waterproof I use another backpack cover I had laying around, Just stretch it over and hey presto again
Oh and a neat tip ..... grab yourself a cheap key-ring / carabiniere (spell?) clip thingy......clip all your zips together to stop them opening down the road and you loosing the contents of your bag. I clip it back to the bag when not in use.
Next up is FIRST AID BOX
Here is my Little tin box I found at a $2 store.... it has some random capitol cities of the world written all over it and a old style "jam jar" lid closing mechanism. The words actually look pretty neat, seeing as the GS was meant to travel the world London, Paris, New York etc etc haha
It is mounted using the top box bolts that attach the top box plate to the standard rack. I just punched 2 holes thru it and mounted the nuts inside the tin. Not perfect but it works...
Next is the PUSHBIKE TYRE PUMP
$2.99 at a cheapo auto parts store
It came with a mount that I guess is ment to go on a pushbike frame of seat stem etc? But I found it mounted nicely along the rear frame of the GS with just a couple of zip ties.
If I am going over rough terrain I add a little velcro strap around it....just in case
Next is my HIDDEN TOOLS
I used the standard place that is meant for the U-Lock in the Rear of the GS under passenger seat. Fits a decent flexible head ratchet + two long and one short flexible extension joint. Doesn't rattle around either.
Next standard TOOL SPACE EXTREME
Seeing as the standard 07 tool kit is pretty lacking and after adding quite a few tools to the standard tool bag. You find that the seat doesn't want to latch closed!!! as the bag / tools blocks the seat height adjustment bar from going down.
So I split up my extra tools.... placed the sockets / Torx bits etc in a separate bag and placed them under the original one... this space also holds a tyre pressure gauge. And if you remove the standard tool tray you can fit a little bit more stuff underneath also. In the under space I have another two small socket extensions along with some spare fuses and allen keys etc.
Next BUM BAG IN TOP BOX LID
I used an old Bum Bag I had laying around.... mounted it using the standard bolts that hold the pillion pad to the top lid of the top box..... this leaves more space in the bottom of the top box and in the Bum Bag I keep little things like a torch, batteries, electrical tape, race tape, zip ties etc etc
Double bonus of this Bum Bag is that is has a reflective strip on it, so when the top box is open at night, it lights up rather nicely to anyone approaching from the rear..... should you be at the side of the road during a breakdown etc
Next VISOR BAG
I used an old Cheapo Helmet bag to store my spare Visors. Keeps them clean and scratch free in the top box.
Next ORGANISING BAGS
Not sure what you would call these things, but you can find them at most camping goods stores etc. They I guess are used for drying wet items? and holding / organise little things. They were only $0.50 each so I grabbed 3 of them. Keeps the tie down straps / zip ties etc from rolling around in the top box
Next DRY BAG
Get em at a camping store, they are a rubbery type bag which you would use to either keep things dry / or keep wet things in that you don't wet wetting other things in your luggage. They fold / roll up really small... Clip one around a frame / rack / belt etc and if you ever need that space to carry something home. Just unroll it and stuff it full. Even if it's pouring down. Thumbs up
This is a 10L size
Next REAR SEAT NET
I had a couple of Car Boot luggage restrainers laying around. I cut one down to size and re installed the bungie elastic cord to suit the new sized net. It fits on the seat wonderfully and clips to the mounts at the rear (pannier mounts)
Useful to quickly pop your gloves in at refuel time, or even stretchy enough to carry a spare helmet with you if you like.
The second one I left full size, and it's large enough to stretch over the top box, around any luggage and around the pillion seat. Double safety? It still allows you to quickly pop your gloves under it at refueling or stuff a jacket / jumper / liner under it without unpacking repacking all your gear.
Next GLOVE BAGS
When you buy a new pair of gloves, keep the bags they came in..... they are useful to hold small things with some... tho not much waterproofness
I have a few of these bags and in one I have wet weather pants, the others hold various things and stop them rolling / banging about in your top box / panniers etc.
They also keep it quieter if you have metal type objects rolling around.
I have a few in my top box along with the organizing bag plus helmet bag come visor bag. Still room in the top space of the top box for picking up shopping a jacket etc.
Nice mods. BTW, here's a mod on GB's web site that gets rid of that height adjustment bar: