R1200GS Billet triple clamp project

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by mark0ne, Jan 3, 2013.

  1. Thunder Dan

    Thunder Dan I don't like wallabies...

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    G'day Greg,

    Nice work! will be good to see this fitted up to ya bike!

    Vaughan,
    Thanks for posting up the article & the pics. Interesting to see how much time / effort goes into R&D (10,000 + lines in the code!!) :eek1

    Cheers,

    Dan. :D





    #21
  2. mark0ne

    mark0ne Ralle-Moto Adventure

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    Hey mate, thanks for the feed back!

    You raise a good point but I will do some split drawings and post them on Monday hopefully and that should show why we did it that way. Its a bit hard to explain but the way the top contor sweeps up from the out side edge it starts below the groove, in saying that I spoke with Mark yesterday and we will be able to make it wash out further and also we can drop some small water escape holes in there also.

    Also where the relieving is meets with where the forks are turned back into a smaller diameter so where we relieve it should yes make more room for the dirt to get in but in our opinion it will escape much easier. At the end of the day I think it wont be a massive problem when you have a look at the rest of the millions of parts of the bike that can hold dirt and water and create corrosion this should be much less of a hassel as you can see if there is muck build up unlike places around and under the tank suspension engine and wiring harness.

    As for the steering damper issue thats easy fixed, just visit our website :wink: :wink:
    www.rallemoto.com

    Thanks again for the feed back and we will take a look at adding some drain holes :ear
    #22
  3. mark0ne

    mark0ne Ralle-Moto Adventure

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    Haha!! No problem to tell you the truth Im not a massive fan of huge amounts of crazy colours but thats just me!! I prefer the Titainium grey evey time!!

    Gota ask though mate........ orange:hmmmmm
    :lol3:lol3:lol3

    To answer your other question, all anodising is the same as far as strength with colours, the annodise process is complicated but the colour is only the pretty bit! The hardness comes from the method tempretures of the acid tanks etc etc......

    The colours dont cost extra if its a colour we do but as a 1 off it can add 100+ bucks depending on where you get it done. For us we get Gold, Black and Grey - sometimes a bit of blue and some red, BUT!!! we only do red on a special request and at the full responsability of the customer because to be honest its CRAP! Red annosise fades so bad when out in the sun, Red in general is the most UV unstable colour of the lot. Take a look at older red cars and Hondas the look pretty bad some of them!! We do injection moulding also and years ago when we used to mould a well know brand of handguards the red was alway the trickiest to get right.

    Best option is to run a vote and we will annodise to the result??? Personally I reckon the Ti grey!!

    Hope that helps mate! Im off to the beach :jkam
    #23
  4. F8 Pilot

    F8 Pilot Bak in the Sadl & Lovinit

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    If you can ship to the United States I'm in. My vote goes for Ti Gray or Black (as I have a Triple Black). Just ordered a Woody's 21" so I need it.

    Thanks :clap
    #24
  5. funsummer

    funsummer Been here awhile

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    Just a quick question.

    Does this clamp fit GSA as well as GS?

    Thanks.
    #25
  6. mark0ne

    mark0ne Ralle-Moto Adventure

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    Yep! Same part # :thumb
    #26
  7. Chat Lunatique

    Chat Lunatique aka El Gato Loco

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    Quote : As you can kind of see there is heaps of work in coding this program just for stage 1 has over 10 000 lines of code. Once the code is written in the CAD CAM package then we spend extra time editing and looking for any small adjustments we can make to speed up the cycle time.

    Impressive job, well done! But 10,000 lines of code? Man, that's a memory hog. Ever do any work with macro codes or sub programs for the repetitive stuff?
    #27
  8. mark0ne

    mark0ne Ralle-Moto Adventure

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    Thanks mate, Yeah the code is pretty long but most of that is made up in the .25mm stepover in the surface milling around the brake line mount. With look ahead it runs through quite quickly. On top of that the memory is huge so its not really an issue.
    #28
  9. Armydad

    Armydad Prov. 3:5-6

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    I find it very interesting that shops outside the U.S. are using Haas mills. I have over 25 of them, including mini mills and office mills and I think they're ok, but thier tool changers are junk. The control, software, and such are very easy to use, but they dont come near anything connected with Fanuc at all. I would think outside the U.S. you would opt for something from China, or Japan considering whats available. We also have alot of Robodrills w/ fanuc controls that are rockets at only 10 to 15k more (for us in the states) and they beat the Haas's in accuracy, memory, heartyness, and breakdown issues ( not to mention footprint, if you're tight for space ) by a mile. Worth a look if u can. Perfect for 3d machining.
    Nice work tho, just the same. Keep go'n !
    #29
  10. mark0ne

    mark0ne Ralle-Moto Adventure

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    Dont know if thats really that important to do with this story?? But the Haas mills from some people cop a bit of flack around the place but to tell you the truth we have had very little if any issues with them, we have 3 of them and have had more issues with our Mazak (not to mention the cost to fix) and we also have had a SuperMax and a Leadwell over the years. The first Haas VF2 we bought is 10 years old and has run 5-6 days a week on a mixture of materials including lots of 10 000rpm work and still no hassels more than any other machines we have had.
    #30
  11. Strong Bad

    Strong Bad n00balicious

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    An additional market for your lower triple clamp (with minor changes) is as a trail reducer for the sidecar guys. Prices have been in the 800 to 1200 range for them.
    #31
  12. Chat Lunatique

    Chat Lunatique aka El Gato Loco

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    Yeah, stories can take off in a direction out of your control sometimes...

    Just wondering about the engineering here. My triple clamp is a forging. As you must be aware of, parts machined from a billet are never as strong as the forged original. How did you address this safety issue?
    #32
  13. FlyingFinn

    FlyingFinn Long timer

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    The original triple clamp is made of cast alloy, this one machined from one solid block is for sure stronger and has way better quality control.

    Where's this fucking "safety issue" you're talking about?

    Yeah, a forged part would be even stronger but a stout billet part is MUCH stronger than the original.

    Damn some people rub me the wrong way!....

    Hi Vaughan, keep up the good work!

    Mikko
    #33
  14. Chat Lunatique

    Chat Lunatique aka El Gato Loco

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    Yup, just checked my pig and it's a casting. My bad! My concern was based on the mistaken assumption that the part was forged for extra strength.

    But thanks for the correction.
    #34
  15. mark0ne

    mark0ne Ralle-Moto Adventure

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    No stress mate :wink: Even if the OEM clamp was forged our clamp would still be extremely stonger, the bmw part has pockets on the under side leaving a 3.5mm wall thickness on the top face and then placing 3 holes for brake plumbing in there. Our clamp has bracing over the top, extra clamp area, 3 pinch bolts, corner radius everywhere, not to mention the fact the material we use is supplied by ThyssenKrupp Aerospace. The billet is certified to FLY :D
    #35
  16. LaurelPerryOnLand

    LaurelPerryOnLand Long timer

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    In the US it is widely know among PILOTS that the price of an FAA-certified PART is determined by:

    Placing a $ in front of the PART NUMBER!:huh

    Does the same thing prevail Down Under? Or...is it AFTER the Part Number? As in $AUD
    #36
  17. mark0ne

    mark0ne Ralle-Moto Adventure

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    HAHA!!:lol3:lol3 Yep same here, same part with a uni graduate putting another 400% to certify it! But not the case here I was just saying that where we buy the raw material it is as good as you can possibly buy! They are a German company that supplies all the aero companies so I'm sure it will be up to scratch for the big Beemer! The cost is only about 10% more for the billet which we wear that for our own peice of mind!
    #37
  18. funsummer

    funsummer Been here awhile

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    Well I will ask the question on everyone's lips...
    Or is that finger tips!

    When is the clamp estimated to be in production and available to public or advriders?

    I'm ready to order one ASAP.

    I see this as the part that will give me a chance to ride my gsa in soft sand whoops..

    Why are others interested in the stiffer clamp?
    #38
  19. Quirky

    Quirky Been here awhile

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    Why?
    A clamp that will fit the stock wheel fender with a 21" front wheel to minimise the spray from tyre with no changes to the bikes geometry.

    The Wunderlich option seemed/is very expensive, also had to buy a fender & not sure what was involved with brake lines.

    Bonus
    Well hopefully it will add rigidity to the front forks, this just might be a huge bonus. Going to look nice.
    If I go back to the standard 19" wheel it could add considerable clearance for muck on tyres.

    [​IMG]
    No clearance (just touching) at front with this half worn knobby
    [​IMG]
    Dunlop R908R 90/90 21" thats more than half worn and is a tall very stiff sidewalled tyre. MT21 will be my next tyre to try on the front.
    [​IMG]
    TKC80 fits with more room and fitted with Touratech fender.
    [​IMG]
    Touratech fender cracked mid trip and rattled badly. See the rub marks from the d908rr FYI the TKC80 didn't rub except for the odd rock. I was actually glad to find it cracked as it wasn't my new Wilbers falling apart. I am not totaly convinced the rubbed section caused this to fail, maybe the corragated tracks or a combination of both. So took the damn fender off, 2 days later it rained and I got covered in shite, well mud mostly I hope. So out with the saw of the Leatherman, cut through either side of the crack and re-mounted it. It helped a little, stopping some of the stuff coming up in front of the tank anyways and still had it spraying muddy wet drippings all up the windscreen. The only people looking dirtier than me (180 odd gs's on safari) were a few HP2 riders. :lol3 All good fun!

    Now with certified aviation grade alloy parts. Good ta fly ey! Well they sound like crop dusters to me. :D

    Is that a good enough reason why?


    Cheers
    #39
  20. mark0ne

    mark0ne Ralle-Moto Adventure

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    Hi Guys sorry its been a few days since my last post but here is the next stage and a few catch up pics I left out earlier!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    Helpful aluminium info for Aussies!<o:p></o:p>
    Here are some pics that I was meant to post the other day. The first pic is of the company that supplies us the material - this shows we dont just buy from any old aluminium horse trader! We have been promised quality in the past from some other companies and believe me there is lots and lots of S#%T out there :puke1 <?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:shapetype id=_x0000_t75 coordsize="21600,21600" o:spt="75" o:preferrelative="t" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" filled="f" stroked="f"><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><v:path o:extrusionok="f" gradientshapeok="t" o:connecttype="rect"></v:path><o:lock v:ext="edit" aspectratio="t"></o:lock></v:shapetype>We choose either Action aluminium for extruded bar, plate and assorted aluminium material and then ThyssenKrupp for tooling alloys, titainium and magnesium. <o:p></o:p>
    If any of you are doing any project that requires aluminium like check plate, tube, flat bar, round bar, plate or any random off cuts then give Action Aluminium a call speak with Brad or Michael they are great guys and they sell top quality stuff also. www.actionaluminium.com.au they have branches in every state of Australia and will cut to size big or small. (I dont want to make this a sell job but sometimes knowing where to buy the right stuff makes jobs easier!) ThyssenKrupp are more for very high end tooling materials which are a bit overkill for DIY stuff.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
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    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    Now before I start on the cross drilling here is the not drilled clamp looks like sitting in its home! Notice where we have located the top brakeline down through the bridge.

    [​IMG]

    Jigs and fixtures
    Now the biggest key to machining anything be it for a aeroplane on a million $$$ CNC or milling it out manually for your lawnmower, holding the job is the key! If ya dont hold it properly the machine will spit right back at ya!

    Here are some pics of the jigs we have had to make to hold this part in stage 2 for top side machining and then also the 4th axis rotary jig for splitting and cross drilling.

    STAGE 2 JIG
    [​IMG]
    Blank soft jaws ready to have a profile milled into them

    [​IMG]
    Profile of the clamp milled into the jaws

    [​IMG]
    Mark checking that part sits in perfectly and all is well!

    [​IMG]
    Reggie (Mark's Kelpie dog) also had to check it was ok :lol3

    STAGE 3 JIG
    [​IMG]
    Jig block took about 4 - 5 hours

    [​IMG]
    Triple clamp mounted in jig block

    [​IMG]
    Jig and clamp mounted to the 4th axis rotary table. The clamp can come on and off the jig so we dont take the jig off the 4th axis everytime.

    Drill Tap Split
    Jigs done clamps mounted and everything is clocked up ready to go. We wrote the program which is not much as far as code goes but its lots of double checking because the collision chances are much higher here :eek1 We do dummy drawing of the whole setup and check clearences and then we do another check with the machine simulation. Hits at this stage really give you the........:cry

    [​IMG]
    Checking the angle of the dangle

    [​IMG]
    Ready set go!

    [​IMG]
    Pinch bolts done, plenty of clamping there!

    [​IMG]
    Drilling the brake plumbing

    [​IMG]
    Brake line hole in the front face done.

    Done done and done........ well almost!
    The machining on this clamp is now complete so it ready to get bolted up to Quirky's beast and he can come pick it up and start spreading the word! When we have the annodised clamps back from annodising in approx 3 weeks time we will grab the bike back and install the annodised clamp on to his bike.

    ^^^^^^ Hey Quirky, just saved a phone call! :wink: :wink:

    Here are some pics at different views for you all to have a peep at for tonight untill I put the installation post up hopefully by Friday evening

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I will try get back on here late tommorrow and finish this off before I depart for my honeymoon :jkam

    Cheers
    Vaughan
    #40