R1200GS Final drive removal

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Kurlee, Apr 5, 2013.

  1. Kurlee

    Kurlee 2009: A Bike Odyssey

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    Original final drive kicked the bucket at around 23K miles, bought a new one from Max BMW as well as some Galfer rotors. I was hoping that it would be a smooth process but I've had issue after issue. Bike is a 2006 standard GS

    Right now I'm stuck on removing the collar that slides into the outside lower pivot point connecting the final drive to the swingarm. It moved a little when I removed the Torx bolt from the opposite end but it has not moved a bit since. Destroyed several drift pins and have pretty much come to terms with having to order all new collars and bolt.

    Schematic
    [​IMG]

    Parts that are stuck

    02 33 17 7 665 148 PIVOT PIN
    16 33 11 7 684 996 GASKET RING - 38X30X2,5
    10 33 17 7 665 149 PIVOT PIN


    I've been following these instructions for the removal, but I'm not having any luck/missing something.

    http://www.mattmccabe.com/r1200gs/r... Removing and installing rear wheel drive.pdf

    Any help or experience is much appreciated. I have never heard or read about anyone replacing one of these warlocks by themselves, so I'll do a write up when I'm done.
    #1
  2. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    I've done it a few times. Does yours have a lot of corrosion on it? I found that an appropriatly sized socket is the best "drift" to push out the collar.

    Jim :brow
    #2
  3. Disco Dean

    Disco Dean Long timer

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    I'm with Jim on it. It can corrode and stick into the bearing race. I got mine out with heat and a press If you have the swing arm off. I did not need to take it off... it came out with a drift though. You will need a new bearing(s) / seals, also - they are cheap... The left side (bolt side) needle bearing was severely corroded.

    In fact when I did mine as a matter of course I replaced the two sleeves, and both bearings and seals while I was at it.

    Not much more to say. Sorry...
    #3
  4. roadtrip22

    roadtrip22 Been here awhile

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    Useing a heat gun to heat up the pivot pin helps too. BMW like to put some good lock tight on there that will make it a pain to remove the bolt. Some good heat and it comes apart easier. Also while your there don't forget to inspect the driveshaft for damage and clean up the splines. :D
    #4
  5. Kurlee

    Kurlee 2009: A Bike Odyssey

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    Thanks! I'll try that. I haven't noticed much corrosion on it, but I'm sure it's there. I'm tearing this apart in the parking lot of my Navy barracks so I'm pretty limited when it comes to tools.
    #5
  6. simoneau

    simoneau Biker/Adventurer/Retired Engineer

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    Remove #10 by installing #12 about 4 or 5 turns only and hammer #12 to drift #10. Use a longer bolt than #12 if required to drift #10 all the way out. Then an appropriately sized socket slightly smaller than #10 and an extension can be use to drive #2 out. Hope this helps.
    #6
  7. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    :nod Good advice.

    Jim :brow
    #7
  8. Chat Lunatique

    Chat Lunatique aka El Gato Loco

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    Ummm....wouldn't a bottle of Jim Beam give the neccessary lubrication for easy removal over at the repair shop on Base?
    #8
  9. bobframe

    bobframe Been here awhile

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    #9
  10. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    That is a section of the factory DVD manual. YOu can get them from the dealer.

    Jim :brow
    #10
  11. mwood7800

    mwood7800 Banned

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  12. Kurlee

    Kurlee 2009: A Bike Odyssey

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    Got it out! New FD is on and everything will get finished and ready for the road in a few days or whenever I get some time off work while the sun is up.
    #12