R60/6 Bing slide carb dismantle question

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by mattsz, Aug 10, 2012.

  1. mattsz

    mattsz moto-gurdyist

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    Carb cleaning day!

    No problems, except I cannot figure out how to remove the insulating bushing (and washer beneath) at the head inlet side. Is it some kind of plastic or fiber? Any ideas for removing without destroying it and reusing it?


    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    Hi Matt. Have you tried a heat gun to expand the aluminum, or pot metal, or whatever the carb body is made of? If you don't have a heat gun, boiling water can work well too. I've never dealt with these.
    #2
  3. mattsz

    mattsz moto-gurdyist

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    No - Rusty at MAX said he basically never sells these things - people rebuilding carbs don't seem to need them. I took a chance and soaked them with the rest. We'll see what happens...
    #3
  4. mattsz

    mattsz moto-gurdyist

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    Any kind of lubrication required or suggested for any of these parts?

    [​IMG]

    I'm guessing not (gas and most lubes don't mix!), but my old idle jet o-rings were toast, and I don't want to kill the new ones on reassembly...

    BTW, not the best photo, I know, but this is pre-soak...
    #4
  5. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    I like to use two-stroke oil, but I always have it around for the RD. I don't think it matters too much. Spit would be fine. Funny, I'm doing this same jobs too, on the Guzzi.
    #5
  6. mattsz

    mattsz moto-gurdyist

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    I can't wait to see that thing in action!!! Thanks again for your help...
    #6
  7. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    I enjoyed working with you, and I'm glad it helped. That's a super nice bike, you did very well.
    #7
  8. ignatz72

    ignatz72 call me iggy

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    I've used plumbers grease, also called vacuum grease on the o-rings. These are clear silicone greases. A thin coating helps o-rings slide over jets, etc instead of tear on the threads. Others will probably mention using tape over the threads, and silicone grease will help here too.
    #8
  9. mattsz

    mattsz moto-gurdyist

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    Hi Iggy-

    Tape, as in plumbers teflon tape? Silicone grease on *all* threads, or just on those with o-rings?


    Some other questions...


    --- My Clymer manual says to remove the "plunger" from the accelerator pump housing, but doesn't say anything about dismantling it further. After cleaning, I noticed that it seemed to have some sort of check-valve function, so I looked into the Bing Carb booklet, which shows the "piston" as having a "valve" and a "reed". I removed the valve from the piston to find the reed inside - everything looked clean, so I buttoned them back up. Functionally, I find when I blow into one end, air flows freely, but when I reverse the flow, the reed "chirps" just a bit and *almost* seals, so I get just a small amount of flow. Each unit behaves the same way. Sound normal?



    --- The springs from the accelerator pump "plunger" (Clymer) or "piston" (Bing) on each carb are different:

    [​IMG]

    That's correct, the left side spring is broken! I didn't find any extra spring bits inside, and by the way the spring was gripping the end of the plunger/piston, I'd say that the last person to dig into these carbs stretched the spring and stuck it back in. I'm guessing that this should be replaced?



    --- Finally, the float needles - they both seem to be just the same:

    [​IMG]

    Where it seats is shiny, but it doesn't appear damaged or scored - to my eye, nor to my fingernail when I drag across it to feel for scoring - is that enough of a check?
    #9
  10. Bill Harris

    Bill Harris Confirmed Curmudgeon

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    13 11 1 255 816 accelerator pump 50/5, 60/5-7 $ 58.00
    #10
  11. ignatz72

    ignatz72 call me iggy

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    Tape, as in vinyl electrical tape or similar, which will be removed after the o-ring is seated. I don't think teflon tape is rated for gasoline, and you don't want it turning gunky inside your carbs. I have used teflon tape on the petcock threads and it seems to work fine, but I wouldn't use it inside my carbs.

    And I used the silicone grease just on the o-rings themselves, although a bit on the threads probably wouldn't hurt. I would remove as much of the silicone as possible from the jet threads when you are done though.
    #11
  12. mattsz

    mattsz moto-gurdyist

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    A whole new assembly just to replace that little spring? You're joking, right?

    Why do I get the feeling you're not joking?




    Gotcha! I can manage that... Thanks!


    I think I've got a $50 roll of electric tape around here somewhere (Bill was joking, right? sigh...).

    Anybody have some Bing slide carbs they're parting out? Anyone? Anyone?
    #12
  13. Hedge36

    Hedge36 My e-penis is huge.

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    You know those little tubes of sewing machine oil with the needle tip? Those are great for carb reassembly :nod
    #13
  14. mattsz

    mattsz moto-gurdyist

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    Just heard from Rusty at MAX. He stocks the springs - for $3.75!! :clap

    Any comments on my float needles or reed pistons? Think they're re-usable?

    Forgive me, but I really don't know how most of these parts contribute to the job they do. Is it imperative that I replace that broken spring? What kinds of problems might I expect to experience with using that bad spring - one that I assume has more force due to its being stretched - fewer coils per the same length of spring.

    I've been having a multitude of little problems, all diagnosed here on this forum as having numerous possible causes and solutions. Now, we're sort of looking at it from the other direction - here's a specific problem, what kind of symptoms would it cause?
    #14
  15. mattsz

    mattsz moto-gurdyist

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    Well, I have one of those, too!!!
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  16. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    Well, did you make progress?
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  17. mattsz

    mattsz moto-gurdyist

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    Still waiting on further input. I'd like some idea of whether that needle jet's shiny seat is enough of an indication of wear that I should replace it. Can't see or feel any ridges or scoring...

    Also, I guess I'll have to replace that broken spring, but somebody modified it and re-used it, which is known to happen from time to time. I'd like to know if this is one of those acceptable times, or whether I should get a new one...

    Plus, I have joined another thread about cleaning carbs with Pine-Sol, and am getting mixed results there - looking for clarification on whether I've killed my carbs (I doubt it) and what to do, if anything, about their now dulled appearance.

    Oh well, it is Saturday night, after all!
    #17
  18. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    I'm more prone to replace than not to replace. The shiny part is an indication of wear, not much by some standards but it is wear. So it ain't going to fix itself. I replace.

    I would replace any spring that is broken, deformed or stretched. You have a spring that is all three. It is broken, deformed and stretched. Replace the spring.

    #18
  19. mattsz

    mattsz moto-gurdyist

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    Carbs are back together - I replaced the bad springs and the two float needles (I see that I've been confusing my part names throughout my posts). Still have to make some adjustments, but I started the bike up tonight and it ran ok with the choke on about halfway, quite roughly without any choke but I only ran it for a couple of minutes - not enough to really warm things up.

    I'm pretty sure I don't really know how to properly warm this thing up using the choke. Before now, it never ran well with the choke, and I never needed it to start the bike, even on cool Maine summer mornings (55 deg F). My downloaded copy of the original manual isn't at all clear on the process. It mentions a full position and a warm-up position - what are they? Can anyone talk me through a proper cold start and warm-up procedure assuming everything is working properly?
    #19
  20. Hedge36

    Hedge36 My e-penis is huge.

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    Choke it, fire it up, back the choke off a bit as it warms up :lol3
    #20