Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Airheads' started by benthic, Jan 8, 2012.
IIRC, It was at this stage that Spencer suggested we actually use the "lift" feature.
More work done!
transmission is out:)
taking the clutch out with the bolt kit borrowed from Renner:)
blocking the flywheel - a trick courtesy of Renner. I was going to make a tool, but this was so much easier!
Question - is oil coming out of these holes normal?
old rear main seal and oil pump cover exposed. I didn't have philips screws holding the cover on, sadly I had bought the replacement cover and bolts - I might send them back now...
oil pump cover off.
oil pan off! now I need to get the old gasket off...
oil pump strainer - intact:) no missing parts.
Another question - this is a crack like thing in my clutch disc. it worries me. there are several like this Do i need a new clutch?
Mike V. stopped by this afternoon and dropped off a few tools and picked up some used parts. I think i'll clean up the housing and change the RMS and oil pump cover tonight...
I hope everyone has had a great weekend:)!
Evening all! a few parting thoughts from the weekend...
in removing the oil rear main seal I slipped and nicked the wear surface behind the seal what do you think? is this something to worry about?
the old gasket came off ok, but left a good residue my finger nail was able to scrape off - oil pan is nice and clean now:)
I don't think that the oil at the flywheel bolts is normal-- there should be a o-ring atthe crankshaft-flywheel junction, that was probably bad. At least it wasn't leaking from around the flywheel bolts onto the clutch.
You have a little ding in the rear thrust washer (there is a corresponding washer on the other side of the rear main bearing, this is the one that gets dislodged when you don't block the crank). The copper material is soft and the ding will probably wipe clean the first time the engine is started, but you'll probably want to obsess-- the thrust washer can be removed with a dental pick (pop it off the two dowell pins) and clean up the ding with a jeweller's file or carefully tap it back down flush. Be careful.
The clutch disc looks like it's been used spiritedly. It may last a few thousand more, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to repalce it. What is it's thickness? How close to the wear limit? What do the two pressure pieces look like? If it's marginal, you can send it all off to SOuthland Clutch for a reline & resurface (I have no direct experience, but I've not sensed negative vibes on them).
good time to come clean regarding the wheelies
copper! Ah, i didn't know what the material was - good to know! and good to know it is not a killing matter. I'll do what I can to clean it up...
Southland Clutch - good call, Renner gave me the same info off-line. I may give them a call today. The friction disc didn't look so good. if i recall correctly, I got 2.94mm but the disc is a bit deformed around the edge so getting a good thickness measurement was nie impossible. the 2 pressure plates were very worn as well with edges ground in. I didn't measure the finger spring. I'm going to look more closely at the parts tonight.
HA! come on now, that only happened twice! the VAST majority of miles on the bike come from the previous owners
You'll want to replace the clutch spring unless it is "known new" or you are on a tight budget. The old spring may be good today, but it may lose tension long before the new clutch parts wear out.
Try cleaning the engine BEFORE you take it apart. The fly wheel is off? Clean the area before you pull the RMS and the pump cover. IMO you will get a lot less crap in the engine before it is all done.
IMO, ALWAYS replace the clutch spring.
man, if you know how to clean the inside of the case without removing the clutch and flywheel my hat is off to you. FWIW, I put the oil pump cover back on and cleaned the case before removing the RMS (after blocking the holes with tape. It's looking pretty good now:)
Read my thread a bit more carefully. I am glad you put the cover back on but you are still less likely to get crap in the engine if you cleaned that area before you took the cover off. Just trying to help you or anybody else that might be reading.
I got a few numbers:
Southland Clutch - rebuild my clutch = $200, new spring = $70ish, plus tax - total $300
all new clutch - spring, plates, disc, plate, tax = total $500.
An overdue update. I ordered a new clutch from the Beemershop as well as some Wilbers shocks. I also posted in the tank liner thread about my adventures in paint stripping, and i'm currently waiting for my extra stripper to arrive so I can finish relining my tank,
but in other news:
I've been trying this Invisible Glove stuff, and it actually works pretty good - which is fortunate since I've run out of nitrile gloves
a bunch of parts:)
Renner happened to have a dent removal kit and I went to town on that unsightly dent in my tank that you can no longer see
today Renner and Mike stopped by and with Mike's mighty 16" tire irons we handily removed the tires from both wheels. I'm going to have to get my own!
A certain bad influence suggested that with the bike so torn down now would be a great time to just pull the engine and wireharness out and get the frame painted... lots to think about...
hope everyone had a great weekend!
I think i'm missing some parts...
I decided I'm going to get the frame powder coated. With any luck I'll have the bike stripped to the frame by the end of the weekend, then next week run up to BMW Escondido to have the shaft pulled out of the swing arm, then get to the powder coater late next week... We'll see how that works out. First I have to get the engine out!
Have a great weekend everyone!
man, you are really going for it!
good for you!
thanks boss! It wasn't my intention to do any paint yet, but I was so close to a naked frame, and I have trouble makers for friends... However, this whole project was always supposed to be a learning experience and a new hobby, not just a daily commuter - that's how i justify all this work:)
i've got mine running all correct finally. i just need the garage for the teardown to repaint. haha. someday.
Maybe that's not all you're missing.
I find this strikingly similar to parachutists jumping from perfectly good airplanes.
Seriously, looking forward to seeing how this comes together.
Judging from the "other bike", your parts are in good hands. :eek1
That damned Renner.
it has been a productive weekend!
I finished relining the gas tank. What a pain in the ass. but i'm fairly confident that i did an alright job, i guess time will tell. If anyone out there is thinking about this, just know that the directions included could be much better and that red BMW original lining is a tough sonnofabitch!
this is after FOUR different stripper applications, and a tank full of chain and nuts. I figured anything left in here has earned the right to stay. It is now a pretty silver color from the POR15 - i'll try to remember to get a pic...
After that I took out the spinal column (wiring harness). that was kind of cool. electrical scares me a bit, but seeing it all as a single harness took a little mystery out of the wiring.
I put the oil pump cover on with a new oring, and the new rear main seal:
I put a new oring on the flywheel and put it back on, but did NOT tighten it down - i read in the Clymer manual that those 5 bolts should always be replaced, but Snowbum seemed to contradict that with some information from BMW. At least, if I was understanding correctly. Anyone care to chime in? reuse the bolts or no?
After that I cleaned up my work area, and got ready to pull the engine. Renner happened to stop by on an unrelated errand but I persuaded him to help me lift out the engine:) (thanks Renner!!) It only took a minimum amount of fuss and the engine was out!
This is so exciting!! I've got a super busy week a work but my wife will be out of town, so I'm not sure what I'll get done this week...
I hope everyone had a great weekend!
PS - i found this guy in my yard yesterday
Think of it as a paint primer. Whatever is still there now will be there for all time and can be coated over with the new liner.
These bolts are a high-preload (high fitting torque), high shear part, so why risk it? THey don't have a history of failure in use, but why risk it-- they are a nominal-cost item and can be replaced with no $$ distre$$. This view is also colored by a /5 10mm flywheel bolt background, where that bolt has been known to fail in shear.
Bare frame: do check the "crack-prone area" on the muffler-hanger, passenger-footpeg, sidecase-mount bracket behind the swingarm bearings. Weld it up or do a pre-emptive reinforcement.
You are going to remove the swingarm bearings before powdercoating? Make for sure that machined surfaces (like bearing bores) will be masked off.