R80/7 + a newb = a long road to cafe

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by benthic, Jan 8, 2012.

  1. Bill Harris

    Bill Harris Confirmed Curmudgeon

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    May 5th i sjust around the corner and it should last (unless SD BMW is in South Dakota). If your mentors have't said "Eewww, lissen to dem tranny bearin's" they should be good for the three weeks. At this point the tranny work is inevitable, but not critical.
  2. benthic

    benthic glutton 4 punishment

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    that would be a hell of a lunch break.
  3. benthic

    benthic glutton 4 punishment

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    What a night!

    Renner and I formed a plan. It was a Bold plan. It was a Daring plan. It was a plan where many things could go wrong!


    Since Renner has like 20 bikes [;)], he offered to let me borrow a transmission from a R100/7 so i could keep riding and enjoying my R80/7 while i sort out my own transmission problems. He made me feel good about it like I was doing him a favor by letting his gearbox get some action, but it was a very generous offer - one that i accepted!

    This evening after work I met him in Renner's Magical Shop of Wonderment and we took the transmission out of the R100/7. With my "help" ;) we got the tranny out in 2 hours.

    [​IMG]

    It was AWESOME. I learned so much! I've been doing a lot of reading about transmission repair/removal/installation, but nothing compares to DOING and having someone that knows what they're doing showing you. I can't thank him enough! He also sent me home with his 27mm swing arm nut socket tool and a torque wrench (my own doesn't read low enough).

    I got home, had some dinner thoroughly seasoned with Tapatio, and fueled by heartburn I went out to the garage to christen it with some serious wrenching.

    at 40 minutes:

    [​IMG]

    I had a HELL of a time getting the rubber boot thing off the shift lever. I tore it a little bit:( But this was the hardest part and the worst thing that happened!

    [​IMG]


    This little clip that holds on the lower clutch lever pivot pin caused serious problems for Renner and I, but since i now knew to look for it it was super easy to get out and then remove the pin:

    [​IMG]

    BOOM BABY. 90 minutes start to finish - including some cleaning/organization at the beginning - and the tranny is out:

    [​IMG]

    Below are some pics of the spline and clutch and stuff, I don't know how they are supposed to look so any comments are extremely welcome, as well as suggestions for maintenance. I'm going to try to get Renner's transmission in this week, so i'm not looking to do anything immediately, but I can be ready for anything when I swap them back after I fix my tranny...

    [​IMG]
    a thick coating of black on the back of the gearbox.

    [​IMG]
    gearbox spline - looks pretty good to my untrained eye

    [​IMG]
    under the transmission - the shelf is pretty sludgy

    [​IMG]
    clutch

    [​IMG]
    fly wheel behind the clutch? is that thing leaking back there? is that bad?

    [​IMG]
    the U joint?

    Anything else I should take a look at or post a picture of?

    At the moment I don't even care if my bearings have disintegrated and my gear box is f*cked - I had a great time:) I feel so manly it's like I grew 2 extra balls.

    [​IMG]
  4. Mal S7

    Mal S7 Been here awhile

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    Splines look good.
    Oil leaks don't.

    Thanks for the posts and pics. Its an enjoyable read.

    cheers
    Mal
  5. Bill Harris

    Bill Harris Confirmed Curmudgeon

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    Oh #$@#* we're in a heapa trouble. :eek1

    The input splines need lube, the rear main seal/oil pump o-ring are seeping and need replacement. Nothing out of the ordinary. You can get the RMS when you swap out your rebuilt tranny with Renner's donor tranny.

    You might also want to look at/measure your clutch plate to get an idea of when it will need replacement.

    Simple solution to complex problem, no? :D
  6. benthic

    benthic glutton 4 punishment

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    Thanks Mal:)

    Bill! spline lube is on the menu! I need to pick up some correct moly grease - maybe tomorrow - you think local auto parts store will have it?

    I'm going to be doing a bunch of reading and try to prepare for RMS, oil pump, and clutch work. My plan (unless it is a bad plan - feel free to let me know although this is seems to follow what you suggested) is to clean up the mess and get Renner's tranny installed this week, get back to riding, go to a few tech days, sort out my own transmission, and then when i pull Renner's back out, do all the suggested maintenance (also after I've ordered any parts/bearings I may need). Hopefully about a month or less with the loaner tranny... i guess my progress on my tranny will be the scheduling factor...

    thanks!
    Spencer
  7. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    Hey Spencer, I highly recommend when you swap in the new RMS, to get the proper tool. It's not a cheap gasket, and easy to f@#k up. I installed mine with help from bgoodsoil and his home made RMS tool. It took a lot of time installing using his tool as it kept bending and cocking the RMS. I'll buy the tool next time, but it looks like Renner or someone else will have one out your way. It's been leaking for a good long time, I doubt another month will have much effect. Maybe if you're bored, clean it up now and you'll have less to clean when you install. Good luck, you're getting a serious schooling in a short amount of time!!!! Oil pump oring isnt at all a big deal, as long as the cover fastners come out.:evil And clutch isn't a biggie, just don't forget to block the crank!
  8. benthic

    benthic glutton 4 punishment

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    I am definitely going to clean up the mess that is there now - i don't have it in me to leave it;) and yes, i believe big Mike V. has the RMS tool, so it should be fairly straight forward:)
  9. Bill Harris

    Bill Harris Confirmed Curmudgeon

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    Then is shoud be a pice of cake.

    THey may have _a_ moly grease, but the preferred moly grease is Honda 60 (a 60% moly grease), available at the local honda motorbike shops.

    When you remove the driveshaft be sure to thoroughly de-oil the driveshaft bolts and bolt holes and blue-Loctite them in. When you remve the flywheel/clutch carrier, the 11mm crankshaft bolts don't have to be replaced, but I use them onlty one-time out of habit ("stretch bolts").

    RMS is routine and not myusterious, but blocketh thine crank.
  10. benthic

    benthic glutton 4 punishment

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    there's an O'Reilly's a block from my house so I'll check it out, if not i know where the Honda Dealers are:)

    Question on the 4 driveshaft bolts - mine HAVE lock washers, but reading Snobum's site he mentions they "should be the correct shorter length with NO lock washers". Is there something wrong with what i have?

    i will dutifully block the crankshaft when the time comes everyone! It's funny - Mike, Renner, and I were chatting about this and we figured I get about a dozen "block the crankshaft warnings";) I certainly appreciate everyone looking out for me, but i really wonder - with all the warnings in print and given by concerned observers, does anyone actually fail to block the crankshaft? serious question.

    Thanks all!
    Spencer
  11. bmwloco

    bmwloco Long timer

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    Great thread, and it brings back some great memories of my mis-spent youth.

    My first BMW was a 1977 R75/7... Burnt Orange Metallic. Same as yours - and I can tell you this: it is unobtanium. I got the last pint from Holt BMW back in the late 80's. Just enough to spray a replacement "S" faring and the side covers. I loved that old boxer.

    Someone may able to get close, but you can't get the good lead in paint like you used to...back in the day.
  12. benthic

    benthic glutton 4 punishment

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    ha! Actually, my bike "is" red. If you take the gas cap off you can see the red color it used to be (interestingly, the exact same red paint scheme as Mike V's R100/7). The previous owners must have left it in the sun a lot and it has faded to the awesome orange color you see now. I like it:) But i do have visions of new paint in my future somewhere - i haven't decided what to do about the "original" orange tank and fender yet... cosmetics is down the line for me. My intent has always been to get the bike in as good a mechanical condition as I can before seriously thinking about paint or modifications (rear cowling, S fairing, etc..), so my thoughts on paint will surely evolve as I progress...
  13. Renner

    Renner rockin' the toaster

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    the four bolts:
    lockwashers tend to break with age/repeated use (AMHIK).
    when they break they tend to fall out of position resulting in slack bolts backing out and all goes to hell, :fall punching out aluminum bits from the trans cover along the way. :yikes

    So no more lockwashers there.
    Now the bolts are too long and the ends hit as the output flange spins, :eek1

    so we use slightly shorter bolts and some of us add a drop of the blue locktite. :thumb
  14. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    Yes!!! I can't find the thread but there was a guy poking around here a last year I think, he had not blocked his crank. I don't remember what he was doing, rms or something....anyway, he was asking for advice cause his shim fell out. He got flamed, mainly because he didn't see what the big deal was, and didn't believe anybody that "blocking the crank" would've prevented it. I didn't know, until someone here told me, I think with all the work you put into that bike we all would be heartbroken if something like that happened to you.

    Oh yeah, after you take your impact driver to your oil pump screws, you may want to change them to allen head.
  15. benthic

    benthic glutton 4 punishment

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    duly noted:)
  16. benthic

    benthic glutton 4 punishment

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    ok, so how many of you do this:

    you got a ridiculous amount of nitrile gloves in your tool box, you start off with the honest intention of using them and keeping your hands clean and preventing all the weird looks from your office mates for your black fingernails, but after about the third pair you just give up and resign yourself to/thoroughly enjoy the black mess? that's what i do anyway;)

    Phase 2 of Mission:Transmission is COMPLETE(?).

    Holy crap though - putting one in takes a lot longer than taking one out! I think it took me about 4.5 hours including some sludge cleaning. (hopefully it will be quicker next time!)

    [​IMG]

    Since I'm going to be doing this again soon, I did a relatively quick clean-up before I started the install. I figure this will also give me an idea of how bad the RMS/oil pump leak actually is.

    Other than that, there wasn't much to photograph. The install went smoothly if lengthy. The 2 hardest parts were:

    1) restraining myself from putting to much lube on the spline:

    [​IMG]

    Is this too much? too little? I cut down a small paint brush to the nubs and used it to put a very thin, even coat on - look alright? Again, I'll be doing this again "soon" - if I've done something incorrectly, will what I've done be ok till I go back in? (a month, 2 months?)

    2) getting the drive shaft bolted back on - my fingers seemed to thick for this job and thank goodness I have a magnet on a stick! I accidentally dropped a bolt down the shaft and had to fish it out.

    Everything went on easy, and i didn't have any parts left over so I consider this a success:) (again, many thanks to Renner and Mike V. for help, supplies, and moral support!)

    I pulled out the throwout bearing on MY transmission to make sure I was installing Renner's properly and I got this:

    [​IMG]

    the needles didn't come out until i had it on the bench, but this is bad right? just to old? Renner's did NOT do this.

    it was late by the time I finished, so I'll test everything out tonight. I think Renner's coming by to help me make sure the carbs are still balanced and to check out how this transmission does:)

    Good times! Almost the weekend! If the bike is good, I'm riding to my first ABC tech day:)

    Spencer
  17. Renner

    Renner rockin' the toaster

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    don't ever paint that tank

    [​IMG]
  18. benthic

    benthic glutton 4 punishment

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    :evil

    Renner came by and we tested out the beemer:) everything seems pretty good! Renner brought his magic carb balancer and we hooked it up and tweaked the bike a bit and then road it up and down my street - which incidentally seems PERFECTLY designed for testing the bike up to 60mph between stop signs;)

    funny story - in my excitement I had forgotten to refill the drive shaft, so of course I rushed to fill it and put to much in. hmm... i didn't want to drain it again, so i rummaged around the garage looking for something to get some fluid out. I found a short bit of spare fuel line and a small, somewhat dim lightbulb came on over my head! I went over to the bike, and tried to suck up a bit of fluid - thinking the hypoid was thick i sucked pretty hard and you guessed it, got a nice mouthful of gear oil. good times. I am so smart. S-M-R-T.

    I'm riding the bike to work tomorrow!:)
    Spencer
  19. Bill Harris

    Bill Harris Confirmed Curmudgeon

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  20. benthic

    benthic glutton 4 punishment

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    Hi All!

    I happily rode the bike to work today, really testing out my handiwork on the freeway at 85mph:) I'm still alive, so i must have done something right:) I think it's going to be a great weekend! If all goes as planned i'll be getting one of those Harbor Freight MC table lifts tomorrow morning (fingers crossed) then going to my first airhead tech day:) ((Sunday I'm riding my other bike with some non-airhead friends)) Good times:)

    Moving on to Phase 3 of Mission:Transmission...

    A few questions for those of you (all of you) more knowledgeable than myself:

    1) i have an estimate of $700-900 for a transmission rebuild by a pro here in San Diego. My question is - How much is it likely to cost me trying to do it myself? Assuming i don't break anything, just the bearings cost? Like $100-200? (meaning i'd be paying the pro $500 in labor?) I think Renner has most of the tools and has offered to help, as has Mike V. - it will be a learning process for all of us;) but if the cost is more like $500, and I'd only be paying the pro $200 in labor, then it becomes much harder to justify trying to do it my(our)self(ves).

    2) tires - I've been reading the threads and I think I am going to get some Dunlop K70's. I like the vintage look, and i'm not an aggressive rider in curves (i speed on the freeway), nor do i ride in the rain if I can help it, so I imagine they will be AOK. any thoughts?

    Happy Friday everyone!
    Spencer