R80ST gets the GS Treatment

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Airhead Wrangler, Dec 24, 2008.

  1. StephenB

    StephenB G(/)S ... what else!

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,045
    Location:
    Ontario
  2. StephenB

    StephenB G(/)S ... what else!

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,045
    Location:
    Ontario
    Your's must be pulling like hell with the 1043 kit. Nice.

    I have run the 37/11 on my 1000cc hicomp dual-plugged engine and already that moves the bike forward in 1st and 2nd. I will try a 32/10 this year as I will be riding more street than gravel this season and see how that goes. Still got the 33/11 to try after that which in combination with my long 5th should be great with rpm just below 4000 when crusing at around 70-75mph. That is probably going the be the "Alaska" version of my bike in 2011.
    I have weight relieved it as best as possible to still be comfy on long distance rides and the bike having no unnecessary optical improvement, just a speedster windscreen for my 6"3' chassis should easily weigh in under 430lbs wet. I wish I had some big scales somewhere local with a 5lbs resolution at around 400lbs.

    Anyway, this is your story, don't want to hijack your thread.
  3. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    Oddometer:
    31,945
    Location:
    Shawangunks
    I bet you could weigh one wheel at a time on a home bathroom scale, Stephen. Just get opposite wheel up to the same height with a 2x4 or something when weighing it.

    This is all really great stuff. Thanks guys.
  4. Renner

    Renner combustophile

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,788
    Location:
    sunny SoCal
    How do you weight-relieve a bike that comes lean out of the box?
    Nippon-Denso starter... uh, helium in the tires... um... I'm out of ideas (baring lightening holes and such).
  5. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    6,836
    Location:
    Back in Seattle, FINALLY
    So what is everyone's beancan cleanser of choice? The advance weights pivot on teflon washers, so plenty of the usual suspects shouldn't be used here as they'll cause teflon to swell and your advance weights to stick. SOOOOO, what SHOULD be used to clean as well as lube these PsITA?
  6. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2006
    Oddometer:
    8,181
    Location:
    Atlanta
    everyone I've ever talked to about this has said to just spray with electrical contact cleaner and then compressed air to clean the gunk and a dab of grease. honda moly60 or that crazy expensive stuff, Dupont's Krytox. worked for me.
  7. squish

    squish Out of the office.

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2003
    Oddometer:
    7,171
    Location:
    Where the Ghetto meets the sea.
    If you're talking about an ST...
    Which when it came from the factory was one of the lightest 800cc class bikes. But still.
    There's still a fair amount of weight that can be trimmed off of it.
    Get rid of; stock rack, license plate bracket, front turnsignal/headlight bracket and H/L, center stand, head guards & sidestand, stock big speedo and tach, stock handle bar, stock battery, stock turn signals. stock foot pegs and three stripe valve covers.
    Replace these parts with nothing or a much smaller and lighter version of them.

    Then it's crazy time.
    Different subframe, solo seat, new exhaust, no airbox,
    New rims, lighter brake rotor. different forks. light weight fuel tank.

    I bet with some money and time you could shave more then 50 pounds off of an ST
  8. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    6,836
    Location:
    Back in Seattle, FINALLY
    OK, after a short hiatus involving weekend trips, beating the snot out of my DR in the dunes, the sale of my beloved duc :cry , discovering Solo Lobo's true identity (Phil Collins), and various other diversions, I'm finally back on to the beemer with renewed determination (and funding).

    I have all the parts on order to convert the ST to points ignition: those include the points can, a dyna green coil, a dyna booster (thanks Wirespokes:freaky ), and a brand new set of plug wires and points/condensor.

    Despite searching all of Datchew's threads from the last year or so, I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram showing exactly how this mess hooks up. Basically, I'm assuming that the stock switched hot off the ignition switch still supplies power to the coil, and the black wire leads to the points can and from there to ground (not including booster, not sure how that fits into the equation). Anybody have a wiring diagram that they've modified to show their points-in-can setup? Ideally, I don't want to modify my wiring harness at all. I'd like to be able to put the thing back to stock easily. If that means running new wiring then so be it.
  9. StephenB

    StephenB G(/)S ... what else!

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,045
    Location:
    Ontario
    You should be able to hook it up: a (black) cable comes from the points-in-beancan and feeds the Dyna booster. I am not sure whether the condenser is used in conjunction with a booster, the booster manual should say. The Dyna booster then feeds the coil directly via another cable. The stock BMW booster is OUT of the equation with this setup.

    You have to run one (1) wire from the beancan to the booster and one from the booster to the Dynacoil. If it is the green dual-tower dyna coil, it has no polarity: one input gets 12V from green/blue cable (that previously connected to the stock coil) and the other to the black coming from the booster. The booster should need 12V too: run an extension from the green/blue cable to power the booster. You will need chassis ground from somewhere connected to the booster. The kill switch kills power to the green/blue, so you're all set there: kill switch kills power to coil and booster.

    Hope that helps.
  10. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    6,836
    Location:
    Back in Seattle, FINALLY
    Thanks StephenB. After scouring dyna's website I found their install instructions for the booster. That cleared it all up. It looks like the condensor stays in the circuit with the booster.
  11. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    6,836
    Location:
    Back in Seattle, FINALLY
    I have my points can and 3 ohm coil and am ready to slap it all together this afternoon. One question though. From the dark secrets thread, I found that I need to buy Bosch 01011 points, but have seen mention that they need to be the heavy duty version so as not to float. The "heavy duty" points are a different part number. Anyone care to clarify? Datch?
  12. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    6,836
    Location:
    Back in Seattle, FINALLY
    Yesterday afternoon I tore out my stock ignition and installed my new points can along with a 3 ohm dyna coil. Everything fired up and runs like a top. I noticed some of the same things as Datchew, especially that it will idle CRAZY low if I let it. It dropped down to 350 for a couple seconds before I gave it some gas. I'm still experiencing a pronounced shudder right at 2000 rpm which I had with my hall can as well, but not with a friend's aftermarket electronic system that I tested out for a little while. Weird. I had thought it was an imbalance between rods or on the crank, but then an ignition system got rid of it. Pics on the way. Also, Datchew, I bought a spare set of points from the part number you put up in the 'Dark Secrets' thread, but didn't get the "tiger tail" ones for some reason. Mine are made in Brazil, but only have the solid black wire. Did you get Bosch 01011 and get those striped ones with the stiffer spring?

    ALSO:
    My bike originally came with the crack-prone grey Bosch coil, but sometime before I got the bike it was updated with the black bosch coil. When pulling this coil off the bike for the points can install, I noticed that it was cracked fairly significantly on the front face around where it mounts. SOOOOO, all of you out there who assume you're safe from cracking coils just because your coil is black and not grey, take this as inspiration to give your coil a checkup next time your tank is off. Mine showed no symptoms of malfunction even in REALLY heavy rain, but I'm guessing it was only a matter of time.
  13. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    6,836
    Location:
    Back in Seattle, FINALLY
    More time has passed and I continue to worry about my transmission.

    Snowbum says:

    "Summing up: ....theoretically it is possible for a transmission built from 1984, up until transmission serial number 240765, to not have the circlip (and the shaft has or has not a groove for that circlip). "

    1984: Z-084339 -> Z-104600

    My transmission is number Z-094668, smack dab in the middle of the '84 run yet my bike was built in September '83 ('84 model year though). My box seems to produce a fair amount of fuzz between oil changes as well as the occasional tiny splinter (yikes!). It has ~17k miles on it now and sat for a couple of decades. How worried should I be? I'd prefer not to throw real money at fake problems, but if this is something that I SHOULD deal with NOW, I'll do it. What would the consesus be on a "normal" amount of metal fuzz on the drain plug? Should the little magnet still be visible or is a larger mound of metal goo acceptable?
  14. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Oddometer:
    9,698
    Location:
    Shoreline, WA
    The good news is the there is a local trans "guru" who is no longer working at dealers, but works from his home... cash only...

    2Trac just had this guy rebuild his trans....
  15. stickerbush

    stickerbush Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2006
    Oddometer:
    47
    Location:
    Pacific Northwest USA
    The 'Bum says:

    A modest amount of FUZZ, soft-feeling, is fine. ANY feelable sharp particles are cause for further inspection. NOTE that fairly large amounts of FUZZ, soft-feeling, after maybe only a few thousand miles since an oil change (and fuzz removal), CAN indicate that the transmission is failing....and for the circlip-less versions, indicate that the 5th gear bearing is deteriorating, and the transmission really should be overhauled and the circlip installed.

    He also has a test here that should either give you warm fuzzies or a sinking feeling in your stomach.
  16. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    6,836
    Location:
    Back in Seattle, FINALLY
    Well? How do I find the guy?
  17. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2005
    Oddometer:
    7,409
    Location:
    Remember the Alamo!



    Bro, I'm sorry. I just haven't been keeping up with all the threads. No time.

    The tiger tail and non-tiger tail (best I can remember) are the same part #. It's just that VW gets it from different vendors.

    I picked the one to use based on the fiber-type wear pad that rides on the lobed cam instead of the plastic. I had chased gremlins when that cracked just enough to lay over on it's side and make my old bug quit running but it would flip right back up when you opened the points arm and throw you off.

    Yes, one is stiffer sprung, but I doubt the RPM's in our bikes are high enough to worry about float. besides, for the same RPM's as a VW (roughly) it's hitting half as many cam lobes as a VW so I'd suspect you're probably fine with either.

    Just put a tiny smear of oil on that cam lobe.

    If you need more info on the hookup of the points system, check out this thread:

    LINKY
  18. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Oddometer:
    9,698
    Location:
    Shoreline, WA
    PM'd ya
  19. Racegun

    Racegun Single Track Mind!

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,629
    Location:
    40ft above sea level
    I have been reading your posts and trying to learn. I would humbly like to ask you a question. Why didn't you start off with a R100GS?
  20. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    6,836
    Location:
    Back in Seattle, FINALLY
    You're not the first person to ask me that question. I've asked myself that question before. I have my reasons. First off, I got the bike for free. It was given to me in immaculate condition with only 2000 miles on it by a neighbor who had taken great care of it for 20+ years. There's no way that I could turn right around and sell it in good conscience. It was entrusted to me. Flipping it for a different bike just wouldn't sit right. Second off, I want a monolever. It's a lighter, simpler bike with what most people would agree is a more reliable driveline. No, it doesn't handle quite as well as the paralever, but it's good enough for me. I also like the more nimble feel of the shorter wheelbase. The frame, engine, swingarm, rear wheel, and most other major components are identical to those of the G/S (same part #s), so it's a perfectly suitable base to start with. Anyway, the long and short of it is that I got a free bike and didn't mind dropping some money to make it exactly what I want. Yeah, it would've been easier to buy the bike I want, but I'm never one to overlook an opportunity for a project. This one has been educational and fulfilling. I kept all original parts and haven't made any undoable modifications either so I can put it back to stock whenever I want.

    The short answer: "just cuz I wanted to." :freaky