Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Airhead Wrangler, Dec 24, 2008.
So my tranny is out for a rebuild and with the swingarm off I thought I'd give the driveshaft a quick check. :eek1 One U was nice and smooth all the way from one side to the other. The other u-joint has pronounced notchiness. The notchy one has about 15 degrees of smooth rotation centered on a straight joint. Move it more than 7.5 degrees to either side and there is a pretty solid notch. There is not discernible play in the joint though I'm guessing it's pretty tough to feel without removing the driveshaft from the swingarm. Anybody got any advice? How concerned should I be?
It's a monolever - what could possibly go wrong with it? :eek1
Here are some replies I got from reputable airhead mechanics on the airheads-tech list when I asked the same question about my G/S driveshaft. Not giving names because I haven't asked their permission to repost their replies.
Hmmm. That makes me feel a lot better, but why is only one of the joints notchy while the other is nice and smooth? One just started out tight and the other not? Either way though, I feel a LOT better.
I had exactly the same feeling on mine... and had HPNGuy do his magic...
You might ask Norm his opinion...
How much for the trans rebuild and what's toast?
Not to hijack things here, but reading this thread got me wondering. Just purchased a 1990 R100GS of unknown history and it ran great for the first 1000 miles that I've had it. Mileage is around 40,000 miles. Now the bike is shutting down on me with no real constancy. I might ride 5 miles, or 25, or 100 miles, and usually it will start back up in 5 to 10 minutes. I just replaced the old cracked coil - no luck, still does it. Looking at cleaning all the electrical contacts next. Who thinks its the Hall sensor, as I am starting to lean in that direction?
Re "heat sink paste" your ICU....
Somebody give His Excellence Datchew a call. We might have another potential member of the points cult.
To answer your question, what you describe DOES sound like a hall sensor failure. The only other possibilities are a bad ICU or a faulty connection somewhere. The only sure fire way to check either the ICU or hall sensor are substituting known good units unfortunately. Got a buddy with an airhead? Do these problems only show up after a lengthy warm up?
Try cleaning the battery posts as well as the big ground wire where it attaches to the transmission. That came loose and caused me to die in the middle of the night once. That sucked. Easy fix though. Is your entire bike shutting down, or just the ignition? Do indicator lights and headlight still work when it dies?
Only the ignition is shutting down - No SPARK! Still cranks and lights are all good. I have a 84 R80 in the restoration process so I can swap Hall sensors if needed. Bike has a new dry cell battery, but I will check both of the suggested connections.
Thanks Wrangler by the way this thread got me wanting a older GS enough that I finally did it.
HA! Rad. Well there are two things you need to do. I noticed your post count and that you're a newbie around here. You need to start a thread introducing yourself, of course WITH PHOTOS of your new GS. That's just the way we roll. Welcome aboard. Hopefully we can get your bike sorted out soon. Good luck.
Before spending the big bucks on a Hall sensor, check your circuitry - if the starter relay has a diode feeding a mystery loop through the tach or ignition circuit, replace it for about $18 from the dealer.
I had a mystery problem with my R80 ST after rebuilding the tranny where it would just shut down and not restart for several tries of the start button. After repacing the starter relay (which was not the original one) all problems were cured. Notice the fact that it it would shut down - not a normal starter relay problem - but related to the extra circuit apparently.
Listen people. Don't start getting the impression that I know what I'm doing just cause I have a high post count.
Besides, as Jason can attest. It's ALWAYS the battery.
Thanks for the suggestion Mark. I figure I will slowly be replacing alot of smaller items anyway, so the relay you mentioned will be sooner than later.
Been riding Airheads since 1987 except for a 5 year stint on a R1150R, have had a 1999 F650 since new, but after 10 great years on it - the F650 was sacrificed to Airhead Gods for the GS. Picked up a Xchallenge a couple of years ago, when they took their first price cut and I've been pretty stinkin' happy with it ever since. My third bike is a '84 R80 no longer an RT, So I've been a long time lurker and posted a few years ago for a short time under "Grafsped". I'll post pictures later once I figure it out. To old to be good with a computer, maybe my 18 year old kid can show me how to post pics.
With that kind of menagerie, you have a good feel for all the quirks. 99 F650s rock (yeah, I'm biased). Good luck chasing the gremlins.
Got a couple of ideas from Motorrad Elektrik, also. Some things to check and my Hall Sensor MAY not need to be replaced, but he has just come out with upgraded replacement that sound very, very tempting. Anybody thnking of going to points might want give him a call.
mark1305, I know what you mean that F650 was a great bike, mine was loaded up with an Ohlins, Jesse's, Corbin, TKC, a GPS. It would amaze me on some of the places I got away with taking it. Always wished for just a couple more inches of suspension travel, so I ended up jumping over the F-Dakar and got the Xchallenge, but gave up some of the day to day utility. Maybe a set of Touratech panniers and the steel subframe would bring that day to day usefullness back, and I could use the panniers on the R100gs too. Hey - anybody got an extra $1500 they don't need, I promise to pay it back someday - MAYBE.
I was actually one of Rick's testers for the new ignition before I DEgraded to points. I had it on my bike for a while and did experience noticeably smoother running, but with the added sophistication of an electronic advance, as well as the fact that it still uses the stock ICU, it seemed far from fail-proof to me. On the other hand points are so simple that there's really nothing that can go wrong with them that a spare $8 set of points carried under your seat won't fix on the side of the road in 15 minutes. Rick's ignition is very nicely made, a great alternative to the stock hall sensor beancan and much cheaper, but it didn't seem like an upgrade in reliability from stock.
So Wrangler, what was your investment $$ to switch over to points I am all for simplifiying.
Uhhhh, too much. I bought a points can from a salvage place for $125 and a new 3 ohm coil for $60. I also replaced my plug wires and caps while I was at it, so that added another $25. If I didn't want to keep all my stock parts I could make back most if not all of that by selling my hall sensor can and ICU. The points cans can be had for half what I paid or less on ebay, but they can be a little tough to find as they get listed under a variety of creative names.
Sounds like it can be done for a little less than the new Hall sensor from ME, but I just put a new coil and Sparkplug wires on the bike. I believe the points use different ohm parts, so I would need to add that cost again.
Finished cleaning all the contacts and put heat sink on the ICU, and plan to do a local ride later today. However, the wife does have plans for me.
Just got back from a 18 mile local ride - so far so good!
Put another 60 miles on the bike today - no issue so far. I am starting to think the paste did it, Solo Lobo. Thanks for the tip - I obviously misunderstood Rick.
Maybe I better ride and camp this weekend.