R90 Airhead Scrambler

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Steve B, Jun 11, 2012.

  1. Steve B

    Steve B explorer

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2010
    Oddometer:
    73
    Location:
    North Bend, WA
    I am in the process of building an R90 scrambler.

    Got a 1976 R90/6, upgraded the front suspension to dual disk, the steering to GS, rebuilding engine to 0 time with all new seals, gaskets, rings and anything else that needs to be changed out. I will be painting it all black with a cream tank.

    The frame has been stripped, painted, new head bearings, machined triple tree, struts painted, rebuilt, progressive springs, progressive rear shocks, metal rear fender...

    This is my inspiration
    [​IMG]

    Progress so far rebuilt front end
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I have to finish painting cylinders and engine block. I will then start assembling and keep this forum updated.
    #1
  2. bpeckm

    bpeckm Grin!

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    7,038
    Location:
    Road Island
    What bars are you using?


    :ear:ear

    :D
    #2
  3. Steve B

    Steve B explorer

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2010
    Oddometer:
    73
    Location:
    North Bend, WA
    A 7/8 in set of pro taper bars I had sitting in my shop.
    #3
  4. wirewrkr

    wirewrkr the thread-killer

    Joined:
    May 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,295
    Location:
    HIGH desert
    3/4" ???
    Not if you plan on using your BMW controls.
    Who makes 3/4 bars?
    #4
  5. wirewrkr

    wirewrkr the thread-killer

    Joined:
    May 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,295
    Location:
    HIGH desert
    Thanks for fixing your miss-type, but 7/8 won't work well either without modifying the controls or the bars themselves.
    They are bigger than the original 22mm bars and you risk distorting and cracking the control assemblies.
    Luckily some of the cheaper aftermarket (chinese etc) bars that are sold as 7/8 are actually 22mm when measured.
    #5
  6. DiabloADV

    DiabloADV Semi-Occasional

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,520
    Location:
    Nor Cal, USA
    Nothing a bit of beer can won't fix.
    #6
  7. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    12,374
    Location:
    Silver Spring, Md
    You can hog out the control units and avoid cracking them when installed on the 7/8 bars. Some do this but then if you ever try to put those controls on a real set of Magura bars they won't fit.

    It's one of the mods that us old guys have trouble with but I'm feeling in a gregarious mood today so I won't complain.
    #7
  8. oldroadie

    oldroadie Two wheel addict

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    789
    Location:
    North Alabama mountains
    Are the controls that rare? The controls on mine slipped right onto the Renthal bars with no drama...but I'd have opened them up without a second thought.
    #8
  9. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    12,374
    Location:
    Silver Spring, Md
    Good point. The controls are not really rare.
    #9
  10. oldroadie

    oldroadie Two wheel addict

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    789
    Location:
    North Alabama mountains
    And now to completely hijack the thread: anyone know which UJM controls that will sub in without too much drama? It's that throttle mounted turn signal switch that's making me crazy...
    #10
  11. Steve B

    Steve B explorer

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2010
    Oddometer:
    73
    Location:
    North Bend, WA
    7/8 will work perfectly as will my new controls and Nissin front brake master cylinder. Some people like to try to piss on others work. Hang on and watch what the build comes out like.
    #11
  12. Steve B

    Steve B explorer

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2010
    Oddometer:
    73
    Location:
    North Bend, WA
    My engine is under way

    • the block is painted and assembled with new bearings and seals
    • transmission has been inspected, closed, and painted with new seals
    • front brake calipers overhauled with new pistons
    • clutch and flywheel sent out to be resurfaced
    • rear drive disassembled inspected reassembled painted with new seals.

    I am in the process of stripping and repainting the frame and will start reassembly with photos 2nd week in Aug, due to time constraints and work travel.
    I also will rewire the front controls. I purchased a control set moving the blinkers to the left bar with a blinker switch that slides left and right. All that is left on the throttle side is the power on off switch and the starter button.
    #12