Race Tech Gold Valves in an '81 R100?

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Rapid Dog, Feb 3, 2011.

  1. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog bikes, booze, broads...

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    Race Tech site only shows R100s '87-'95. Anyone know anything about this.
    Yes, I have contacted them by e-mail.
    That said, any insight on what/wher/how would be great.
    I have my forks apart, want to get this done ASAP.

    These are the Brembo brake forks as shown:

    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    #2
  3. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog bikes, booze, broads...

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    I'm coming up with FEGV S4101 ... not sure that's right.
    This bike has the rods but there are no internal springs or ball valves...
    I also have a request into Mr Matt Wiley...
    #3
  4. SUVslayer

    SUVslayer Long timer

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    Can't offer much specific advice, but I had them install gold valves in my R100GS - largely because they couldn't tell me what was the best solution and they gave me a discount for "R&D". If you're close, it might be worth asking about - in the end, because I bought springs too, it came to roughly the same price as parts alone.
    One note I'll make is some people have it that you need to drill the damper rod on the GS to allow proper oil flow. Race Tech insisted this was not needed.
    One more note - they made a big difference and are well worth it.
    #4
  5. RecycledRS

    RecycledRS Along for the ride

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    I put the gold valves in my 82 RS and they made a big difference. I needed to make an adaptor/spacer for the gold valve to sit on top of the damper rod and drill two more oil flow holes at the bottom of the damper rod. Then played around with preload spacers and oil weight. Sorry I didn't take any pictures of the mods as it took numerous dissaembles to get everything right. Your forks look the same except for the top out spring in mine.
    #5
  6. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

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    I think they work great and sometimes wonder why I don't have them in my own bike. I have always told myself that I would do it to a set of Showa's for their teflon bushings and WAY less stiction to fight but I recently decided that their chrome is just absolute crap. So I am back at the German forks since I like the Italian ones even less than the Showa's for the same reason and more.

    They are a pain to setup and even more of a pain to fine tune but they work. Personally, its the only way I could get enough rebound without too much compression. I have have got the stock springs dialed in with more preload and I know I want a lot more rebound and a lot less compression. That's going to take some valves or other mods like Lindeman Engineering does.
    #6
  7. mark1305

    mark1305 Old Enough To Know Better

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    I bought some freshly rebuilt forks from another inmate recently that had Gold Valve Emulators and progresive springs installed.

    I needed to go in and do a little touching up on the damper rod compression holes and run down an answer to a caveat on the Racetech site about not using OEM nor Progressive springs with my emulator. And no instructions on hand.

    I spoke with Louie Martinez in Tech Support and within 5 minutes had all my questions answered and a copy of installaion instructions in my email inbox. That's good support!

    The instructions I got are for the FEGV S3301 emulator, so I guess that's what I have in the R80 ST forks. They cover several situations, depending on exactly what your damper assembly and springs are like. Quite clearly, too.

    The instructions have good diagrams and detailed procedures. If you haven't already bought the emulators and have no instructions, the RT website has a very similar .pdf document listed as "Fitment Requirements".

    Fitment Requirements.pdf answered all my questions except about spring choices because I misread the part requiring 4mm between the spring ID and the Valve Cover Plate - I mistook the OD of the blowoff washer for the Valve Cover Plate which in reality is equal to the ID of the blowoff washer on mine. The instructions show this more clearly and Louie reassured me I would be fine in my case with the Progressive springs.

    I can't wait to get the forks back together and try them out - should have been done already, but scope creep leads to cleaning and detailing pieces while everything is apart and clean.

    My fork internals are pretty similar to yours, except for the top-out spring at the very bottom of the damper being different in length and a slightly different plate at the bottom of that spring. (It appears BMW switched from the rubber bump stop to the second spring on the ST forks around 11/84 IIRC).

    One tip if you do your own installation - when drilling out the compression holes and additional holes use a center drill in a good rigid drill press or a milling machine if you have access. If you're not familiar with center drills, they are short bits that are very rigid (thus short) with a tiny pilot point on the end, and then taper up to the bit size. My #3 center drill is the 1/4" my holes needed to be. Cutting fluid helps too because aluminum likes to stick to drill bit flutes.
    #7
  8. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog bikes, booze, broads...

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    PM'd and e-mail'd ya Mark.
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  9. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog bikes, booze, broads...

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    ...no answers from race tech or mr. wiley

    can anyone confirm FEGV S4101 or FEGV S3301 emulator?
    #9
  10. mark1305

    mark1305 Old Enough To Know Better

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    PMs been a flyin'. :D

    I think my head is empty now. I rechecked all the R80/R100 listings and didn't come across the S4101, just the S3301 that I'm betting on and the S3501 and S3801, which I think are larger diameter forks. I think.

    Anyway, I've always had better luck getting returned phone calls than returned emails from most companies. Plus you can think of last minte questions while on the phone. I was really happy with Louie's advice.

    Hang in there, it'll be worth the effort even if it takes a little longer to get it sorted out.
    #10
  11. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog bikes, booze, broads...

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    ...just off the phone with Louie, he said FEGV S3301 emulators plus FPEV AD3301 for the adapters.
    #11
  12. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog bikes, booze, broads...

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    ,,,now off the phone with Matt Wikley at Race Tech. He confirmed the FEGV SS3301 GV and said you can use a 15mm 3/4" PVC spacer on this particular GV instead of the adapter.
    #12
  13. r'elise me

    r'elise me Been here awhile

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    Thread revival - anyone have recommendations on spring rate, GV and oil settings for spirited canyon carving and sport touring on a 82 R100RT? After reading this thread don't know that I should trust Racetech's recommendations.
    TIA
    #13
  14. BoxerD

    BoxerD Just old :(

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    Your total riding weight has everything to do with the setup, I use 5 wt oil, 280cc, standard springs with 1 1/2 " of preload and drilled the stock damper holes out to 6mm on my '82 RS forks. My RS fork has the spacer under the damper tube at the bottom of the fork, a part I think is optional to the model ( RS or RT ). It will take some time to set the GV springs to your liking, I started at 2 1/2 turns of compression. I ride my bike without no fairing and 10mm extended rear shocks, the bike is is at about the same level as without the fork spacer and without extended shocks.
    #14
  15. r'elise me

    r'elise me Been here awhile

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    I take it that you do have the GVE installed? If not, your setup sounds like you have very little damping.
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  16. BoxerD

    BoxerD Just old :(

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    I do have the GV installed, I like for my bike to ride comfortably on the road, the tire to go over bumps and ripples, I am not riding on a racetrack so some roads are a bit rough. I am also not that heavy and my bike is not overloaded as we all see out there.
    #16
  17. r'elise me

    r'elise me Been here awhile

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    Got it. Interesting setup. Haven't heard of anyone going this route. So drilling the damper rods to 6mm decreases comp damping and the light oil helps that and softens the rebound settings on the GVE? What spring do you use on the GVE and how many holes did you drill into it for oil flow? What's your weight? Do you ride aggressively in the twisties or are you a cruiser? Thanks for the advise.

    Can the GV and oil changes be done without removing the fork?
    #17
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  18. Voltaire

    Voltaire Titanium and Ceramic Hipster

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    I put Brembo internals into an ATE lower.
    The spacers that Racetech provide are not that great, made up some alloy ones.
    Springs are tricky. For my track bike I had .85kg/mm to start with and I was happy with them but the suspension guru put .95kg/mm in and I like that on the track.
    Rode it on the road once ( private road under controlled conditions) and it made my teeth rattle.

    I did the R90s more recently and thought " I'll use the .85's in it.....ended up with bugger all sag and the forks pretty much followed the bumps :-(
    So being a frugal Kiwi I got an old set of springs and cut them down about 40mm and made up the difference with a PVC spacer.
    Better than the .85's but still not there yet.
    I did find a place that did springs on the net and they were about .66 which I'm thinking might be in the ball park.
    [​IMG]
    #18
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  19. BoxerD

    BoxerD Just old :(

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    The instructions from Race Tech said to open the damper holes and run 10 - 15 wt. fork oil, I was mistaken when I said I ran 5 wt. After I looked at my notebook it appears that I am using 10 wt, sorry ( I'm old and forget what I did, so I have to keep records of changes on each bike in a notebook ) My riding weight is about 190 lbs, we have some very poor road conditions some places here !!! I do not want my teeth to rattle while I am out for a ride ! I am using stock '81 > fork springs with app. 1 1/2 " of preload. I do not consider myself an aggressive rider although ( some would argue the point ). I have ridden on some tracks and know most of our roads here do not compare . I like Voltaire's spacers !!!:lol3
    #19
  20. Voltaire

    Voltaire Titanium and Ceramic Hipster

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    Wot I did on R 90s:
    Re the spacers, you can get even more simplistic and use 25mm od pvc pipe. All they are doing is giving the fluid a clear path the emulator and supporting the fork spring.
    The last set came with three emulator springs, I used from memory ( which is a bit stuffed) the silver one.
    Put in the silver one, with the nut done up enough just to start compressing and then one turn.
    With the emulator assembly in put in the 235-250 mils of 10wt oil and then push the lower part of the leg all the way up and measure the oil level.
    You'll have to look it up but I think it was around 100mm of air gap.
    Drop the lower, fit the spring and take it for a ride.
    I'm not sure if the stock spring will fit as the emulator/spacer assembly is about 50mm long.
    I cut down some old springs by 50 mm, this stiffens them.
    Damping is good, can't say I'm impressed by the cut down spring.
    I'm not sure what stock rate is, recall .5kgs/mm..?
    .85 is too harsh, so somewhere in the region of .6-.7 might be the go.
    As SS once pointed out, you can get it right but there are so many variables.
    I don't think preload does anything other than alter the static sag, I need to re read the Racetech Bible.
    #20
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