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Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Radioman, May 19, 2011.
awesome Mark, always wanted to see MP, who knows maybe it'll be in my near future. Cheers!
Stunning photos Mark! Thanks for sharing.
loving the photos mark
Another amazing stop on your trip. Thanks for taking us along.
I like the addition on the fairing. He'll keep you company.
BUMP! No reason for this NOT to be on the Front Page of RRs! Go, Radioman, Go!
After I left Mike and Jill in Pisac it was a 1/2 ride over the hills to Cusco. I had left some gear at Cusco and needed to go back to get it.
It was a nice ride, as I got higher up into the hills some dark clouds formed, and I had a bit of rain and then a big hail and the temps dropped. :huh
Back in Cusco the sun was out. I arrived, got the bike in the garage at Southern Comfort Hostel, and it poured rain in Cusco for a couple hours. was glad I had stopped for the day
Next morning I was up early to hit the road riding 600 KM to Arequipa to meet up with Hector who was waiting for me. I met Hector while young James and I were in Quito. I helped him spend his money on a KTM 990 When I arrived, at Home Sweet Home Hostel, they are waiting for me.
At the Hostel Hector was joined by Matias. They met and rode in Bolivia. Matias has been in South America for about 10 months and is now riding north toward Alaska. Hopefully some of you ADV riders will get the opportunity to meet and host him!! Great guy!
As we talked and got reconnected. Hector had told me had a little get off on his way north in the Atacama desert and hurt his shoulder. OUCH.Went to Doctor and had X ray to find out he had partial dislocated shoulder. So he needs 2 weeks off the bike.
We decided to take a trip to Colca Canon, but since Hector could not ride. We signed up for a two day trip including one night in Chivay with Hot Springs. How bad could it be? :huh
as the tour guide said over and over. "ladies and Gentleman. the Most important thing to know is, the Vicuna in this beautiful Area........ The Most Important thing to know is the Chivay region, the Condors, the Banos.... We laughed very hard
Volcanos in the area
Of course the stops included the Tourist trap of vendors.
Going into Chivay ("The Most Important ......) Had to pay 70 Soles park entrance. (only 20 if you are Peruvian)
Main Plaza in Chivay.
Coco candy, teas etc.
Then a couple hours at the Hot Springs!! Felt great!
We were almost the last to leave!
After we got back to the Hostel, I started not to feel Well
No Photo. actually it was a bad night as nothing was really coming out either end and I felt terrible. Hector and Matias were great! I have only had a few sicknesses on the trip, once Bad in Mexico, once in Quito. Not much sleep and no relief.
Burt we were up at 6am to go see the condors of Colca Valley "the Most important place in this valley is the Condor Crossing"
Up the Colca Canon to see the Condors.
Then the real shots. Thanks to Matias as I was under the weather, but enjoying the soaring birds.
These Condors are huge. (foot wing span. as they soar by the viewing area.
Just enjoying the the view even though I was exhausted and still not feeling well. Stomach ache .....
Hector and a Young French girl we met at one of the stops. Lucy was great!
Making a little fun of Hector.... We laughed a great deal along the way "dankeshun"
And more. Sympathy pains!!
Hector having fun with a 12 day old Llama
Matias as well.
And the other tourist stuff. Falcon on Hector
Then back to Arequipa. Long day on the bus. So glad to be back in Arequipa to rest up. Fortunately just a day later I am back .....
Did a little repair to Hectors Bike....
My rear brake pads were mostly gone and while at BMW I forgot to get new replacements so in Arequipa I decided to have new pads put on my existing metal ...... was only $12 Soles. They grind them off and then put on asbestos replacements.....
The lady was fun as I took a look at the pads and paid my soles!
Then shaved my head.... Shaver needed a bit of WD40
Moving bikes around, riding Hectors KTM over to the other parking
Then My bike
Decided to give Myrima from the hostel a little ride
heads shaved then Hector cooked a great Lunch meal.
One more great experience with other riders!! Cheers!
To extend Mark's visit to Machu Picchu, enjoy the music of Peru! Here on the Radioman network.
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The trip has been filled with meeting interesting people. These are the real gems of the trip!!
Hector, Matias and I had a great few days!! But as it is in this kind of Moto travel, we have different directions and schedules. We talked about this as solo travelers. You connect with others, have fun together but then when head back out on your own there is a little sense of loneliness and sadness of parting ways.
Matias and I headed out of Arequipa toward Jaliaca. Great ride in the high plains with volcanos in view.
Quietly riding along as we both fill with thoughts of the road ahead. Just 3.5 hours and we said Goodbye. Matias heading North and me south! Travel safe friend..... See you next year in the states!
One of Hectors Stickers.........
Jaliaca is a small town but was very busy....
Lots of markets, people in all kinds of vehicles
A few toll stops, but Motos do not need to pay. Most of these toll boths do not say anything about mottos. But this one had a sign, and a gravel road to go around. Nice!
My first view of Lake Titicaca. The highest and largest lake in the world at over 13,000 feet.
I heard Puno was not much of a town, but did have the Uros People and there floating islands. So I knew it would be touristy..... But decided to go. 5 sole entrance fee, 10 Soles Boat trip, then 10 Soles on the reed boat.
Not really sure what to expect as we cruised out 20 minutes from town.
Then the double decker reed boats.
and a close look at a "floating Island"
We get off on one of the family Islands for the Presentation of there lives, then of course the Gifts for sale......
Yup. We are floating. The thick reeds are solid but spongy.... you can see the tie down rope in the water.
The little Tourist show explaining the life of the Uros. Then the sales pitch.
Then we all hopped about for a reed boat ride to the main island.
Looking down on the main island, as the sell their goods, and food.
Storm clouds on the horizon, with some good lightening. The captain said it would not rain until later.... He was right.
When I returned to the Presidente Hotel..... Had a knock on my door...... Mike and Jill had made it to town!
We planned to meet the next day to check out Visa's for Bolivia and figure out what a riding plan would be. They were planning to go around the lake to the north but there was no border crossing so it would take some planning and work at the Bolivian Embassy.
I had another night that I did not sleep much. I can only think it is the Altitude somehow...
We met in the Am, saw the Bolivian Embassy, who was out of the necessary Stickers to give us Visa's ....... New plans.
They stayed here. $30 Soles for a double bath down the hall. Looked like a nice place.
Back together riding again!!
Max (the Sasquatch) Likes their sticker
We rode south along the lake toward Bolivia. At the Junction for Copacabana or Desaguadero We flipped a coin, since we just did not care which way we headed into Bolivia..... Tails. Desaguadero it was.
Last looks at Lake Titicaca on the Peru side....
We roll into yet another border town. They are always a bit rough and not real appealing.
As we roll up to the Peruvian side of the "fronterra" we see the Police the point where we can stop. Off we get. Always easier with two bikes as we can watch the bikes while figuring out where to go to Immigration and Aduana.
The Immigration is on our left. And Aduana was on the right. What is so different from the Central America borders is that there is no "helpers" or money changers rushing you. Seems so calm and relaxed!
The check out of Immigration and Aduana takes about 20-30 Minutes. Easy. 1/2 way done!
You will also have to pay a 5 soles municipal tax before you leave.
Then Into Bolivia!
As we get across the bridge, the police point a place for us to park.... Just to the right side. The Offices for Immigration and Aduana are in the blue building in the center of the street.
Here we go again!! You then walk around to the left of the building for immigration. Go to Office 1 and show passport and get paperwork to fill out.
As US citizen you need to fill out the Visa paperwork with passport photo, copy of Passport and $135 USD (nice clean bills no tears or defects, they check them closely). Once paperwork is completed take them to Officina 2 where the guys will take your paperwork.
Mike has all their paperwork and $.
Once they sticker your passport, you walk just across the street for copies of two pages of new stamp and sticker in passport and return to the Immagration guys and then you are done!!
Aduna is back at the front of the building and clearly marked. You need Title with Plate number and Vin number, passport copy. He signed us off quickly.
Mike and Jill done with Immigration.....
**** Be sure to check the documents to make sure they got all your numbers correct!! (Matias did not when he entered and they had made typo errors. At exit they wanted him to go back to Entrance border or La Paz to have it corrected..... He offered $100 Bolivianos ...... and they let him leave, but extra hassle you do not need!)
Done. Took 1.5 hours or so.
Border guards were interested and wanted to ask about the trip.... Had one Police guy make us sign a book then wanted some extra $. Mike said no.
*** As you start riding out to La Paz there is a police checkpoint that they asked to see documents and then wanted 5 Boliviano for Municipal tax ….
Finally on our way into Bolivia.
You notice subtle changes in the people, dress, and slightly poorer look and more trash…
Riding into LA Paz is a busy experience. The traffic starts about 15 miles from La Paz. GPS got is through the crazy t city Alto and then down the hill into La Paz. On our way in a truck bumped my rear pannier and we also saw 3 mini buses crash right next to us…. Very Hectic! For sure.
Mike and Jill in yet another exhaust of one of the buses!
Slight reprieve from traffic as we head down the hill into La Paz........
Hostel. Lots of one way streets. We had a list of a few hostels, and settled on Blancito which you ride into the entrance and lobby of the Hostel, which once must have been a very nice hotel. We paid $40 Bilivianos a person for a room .
Rode in over the curb, through the lobby, and down a hallway to park the bikes.
La Paz has an interesting feel. Hectic and full of life. We are in an area of shops, of all kinds. Cool.
What an amazing trip and report!
I've never done anything like this, but have read numerous other reports that have comments and photos like the one above. Is it really that easy to get the operators of these establishments to allow you to park your bike inside? Often the comments reads something like "The manager said it wasn't safe to park the bikes on the street and allowed us to park inside." and I always wonder, is the manager bringing it up and offering unsolicited...or do people always make a point to ask if the bikes will be safe outside? Do you have to plead, pay extra, promise to clean up afterwards? Just curious...
We made it to the hostel. Halfway up Santa Cruz Street from Murillo. It is on the right. Not much marking.....
Had a great day getting some things done. Like Laundry in, BMW that had a set of rear brake pads,
We are right in the middle of many many market streets, from Fruits & vegs, Hardware, Plumbing, Cloths, Hiking gear etc.
I then went to the BMW dealer, to pick up new set of Brake pads.
They have only been open for two years, but Carlos Speaks english and was very helpful!
The place is called Andar Motors, it is primarily a car sales showroom but contains a motorcycle sales and workshop also. We had some repairs done there and where very happy with the results and price. Carlos Toro is workshop boss and speaks perfect english. They are at Calle 8, Obrajes La Paz, Bolivia. Ph +591 2 2783030.
and a famous little area..... "witches Market"
They sell Llama Fetis's . When a new house is build that put one under it to bring good luck.....
While we were having lunch .... I big line formed outside ..... for the Natural Gas fill up.
Mike and Jill Engaging in some local Commerce. Jill drives a hard bargain.
Once back at the hostel, A shoe shine guy was there...... Good chance to get my boots cleaned up!
MoBill I paid 3 Bolivianos (.44 usd)
Mike had some bike Maintenance to do..... He found a new MT-60 for 580 BS or ($87 USD). He road over to get tire, change oil etc.
bike in the lobby!
Nice old building has the hostel.....
Your best updates yet
Looking forward to see some more of Radioman's Travels
Loving the updates, Mark. Makes me want to get back on the road after the month in Europe.
Back from the mountains..... snow starting to fall so I'm catching up, whew! a lot to read.
Anyway Mark, I see Hello Kitty is still hanging on right were I put her, an seeing that signage she is getting close to her intended destination..... I must say though the miles have been hard on her. Looking a little scrappy.
BOLIVA................. .............. Oh you..... I so, so, so wish I was there. You Go Man. Hope you stat feeling better soon, CiPro
Thanks for the question. It has just become "normal" part of riding in South America.
All the way through this trip I ask for "secure Parking" for my bike. If they do not have a parking garage, then they always point out where you can ride inside and park. Of course sharing resources of Hostal, hotels that have parking is important and is part of the reason I share the good ones. As moto travelers we share these places on RR, PM's conversations on the streets.
The parking has been really easy, as the hotel does not want you to have any problem. They do not have the "legal" issues of riding into the hotel, up stairs, through the lobby or restaurant etc.
I always notice the floors are clean when you park inside, IE no oil leaks. Do they ever ask if it leaks or offer cardboard?
I relies bikes should not be leaking, but sometimes "stuff happens"
Ufff!! ......my Frankenchopper would have to be parked out back by the dumpster!!!
I've put alot more thought into serious International traveling on my bike like this.....but I always get a sick feeling in my stomach when I see these 2 1/2 hour border crossings....GAD!!
I'm afraid I'd get real frustrated when dealing with the incompetents, and the crooked, underhanded border guards...and end up with my ass getting thrown in jail!! :eek1
Have a super journey, be safe, and GodSpeed!!!
Not a bad deal - $5.70 USD per person for the room. I'm enjoying reading about this new phase of your journey.
But he forgot you as soon as you were gone. Those mopes in Manali would follow me around this moment if I showed up there now
Loving it--that shot of the Bolivian border actually reminds me of one of our stops along the way thru Karu.
Finally all caught up on your RR. Loving every minute of it.